Place · settlement

Kaffa (Feodosia)

What the sources say here: 12 passages

BuildingsKaragoss (near Feodosia), Crimea1816 to 1820 (village abandoned after 1783)

A vanished Tatar village turned into an orchard

Editorial contextHolderness's own estate was a huge wild orchard made from the lands of a Tatar village of 1,700 people that had emptied after the Russian conquest. Only foundations, wells, the ruins of a Tatar bath and a mosque with its minaret remained. She is explicit that these ruins were a recent Tatar village, not something ancient or mysterious.

The village of Karagoss, at the time of the subjugation, contained 1700 inhabitants … Not a single house now remains within its circuit, though the foundations of them are to be found in every part … also the ruins of a Tatar bath, and a Tatar metchet, or mosque, the minaret of which, seen from all parts of the estate, embowered in wood, has a remarkably picturesque appearance

Mary Holderness

About Crimean Tatars

Keep in mind

The population figure at the conquest is presumably what she was told.

Continue in this sourceMary Holderness's four years among the Crimean Tatars1810s · 13 passages

Earth-built mosques and baths, stone only from the Genoese

Editorial contextIn the same description Chardin is precise about materials: every house, bazaar, public building, mosque and bath in Caffa was built of earth. The only stone buildings were eight old churches the Genoese had built, now decaying. He credits the town's founding to the Greeks (as Theodosia) and its later growth to the Genoese.

The Houses are but small, and all built of Earth, as are also their Bazars or Market-places, their Publick Structures, Mosquees, and Baths. There is not one Building of Stone in all the City, except eight Churches somewhat gone to decay, formerly built by the Genoeses.

Jean Chardin (English translation, London, 1691)

About Turks and Crimean Tatars

Continue in this sourceChardin's journey through Crimea and the Caucasus to Persia1660 to 1679 · 13 passages

Caffa: 4,000 houses, all of earth

Editorial contextChardin spent forty days at Caffa, the Ottoman port in Crimea. He counted about 4,000 houses, 3,200 of them Muslim (Turks and Tartars) and 800 Christian. Houses, markets, mosques and baths were all built of earth; the only stone buildings were eight decaying churches left by the Genoese. The strong walls and castles he describes were the Ottoman garrison's.

They reck'n about 4000 Houses to be in Caffa; of which 3200 are inhabited by Mahumetans, Turks and Tartars, and 800 by Christians, Greeks and Armenians

Jean Chardin (English translation, London, 1691)

About Turks and Crimean Tatars (with Greek and Armenian Christians)

Continue in this sourceChardin's journey through Crimea and the Caucasus to Persia1660 to 1679 · 13 passages

Kaffa, 'a whirlpool of our blood'

Editorial contextMichalo describes the sale of captives from his own country in the Crimean markets: led in chained rows of ten, auctioned by criers who shout that they are fresh, 'royal' not Muscovite slaves, stripped and checked for flaws, dressed up to fetch a better price, and resold for profit. This happens in all the peninsula's towns, 'but above all in Kaffa', whose port sends the bought captives straight onto ships. He calls Kaffa an insatiable place, a 'whirlpool of our blood'.

These things go on in the other towns of that peninsula too, but above all in Kaffa, and there it happens that crowds of those wretches, once bought, are driven straight from the market to the ships. … by its site that insatiable … city, but a whirlpool of our blood.

Working translation

Original wording

Aguntur haec & in caeteris peninsulae illius urbibus, in Caffa vero praecipue, Contigitque ibi quod globi miserorum illorum coemptorum aguntur ex mercatu ad naves recta. … situ suo insatiabilis illa … urbs sed vorago sanguinis nostri.

Michalo the Lithuanian, De moribus Tartarorum, Lituanorum et Moschorum, fragment 1 (c. 1550; Basel, 1615)

About Crimean Tatars and Ottoman merchants; Lithuanian and Ruthenian captives

Keep in mind

Kaffa was an Ottoman-held port, not a Tatar town, by Michalo's time. One or two words before 'urbs' are illegible in the OCR (probably 'not a city but'), so they are left out.

Continue in this sourceMichalo the Lithuanian on the customs of the Tartars, Lithuanians and Muscovites1530 to 1549 · 12 passages
Show 8 more passages

City, castle, palace: the merchants' town vocabulary

Editorial contextThe glossary gives, column by column, Latin, Persian and Cuman words for places. A city (civitas) is 'saar' or 'chent' in Cuman, a castle is 'kalaa', a palace is 'saray', and a house is 'eu' (ev). The words for city, castle and palace are loans from Persian and Arabic (shahr, qal'a, saray), next to the Turkic 'kent' and 'ev'. The Italian merchants clearly needed these words for dealing with towns in the Horde's lands.

city: (Persian) shahr / (Cuman) shahr or kent; castle: (Persian) qal'a / (Cuman) qal'a; village: (Persian) deh / (Cuman) qala; palace: saray / saray; house: (Persian) khana / (Cuman) ev.

Working translation

Original wording

ciuitas ghachar saar ul chent castrum kala kalaa casale de gala palacium saray saray domus ghana eu

Codex Cumanicus, Latin-Persian-Cuman glossary (Italian part, dated 11 July 1303), ed. Geza Kuun 1880

About Cumans (Qipchaqs) of the Golden Horde

Keep in mind

The modern equivalents in the translation are the usual identifications of these spellings; the scribe's spellings are Italian.

Checked against the page image; 'ul' is the manuscript's abbreviation for Latin 'vel', 'or'.

Continue in this sourceThe Cuman Codex: a phrasebook from the Golden Hordec. 1294 to 1340 · 13 passages

Caffa: Tatar and Genoese buildings blown up by Russian officials

Editorial contextXavier describes what happened to Caffa after the Russian annexation of 1783. The Genoese walls and towers were pulled down for barracks, the great Turkish baths and the old cathedral-turned-mosque were demolished with pickaxe and gunpowder in 1833, and the Tatar population was expelled. It is a first-hand record of who actually destroyed the old buildings of a Tatar-era city.

In 1833, the ignorance of a civil governor, Kasnatcheief, completed this afflicting work of destruction, which extended at the same time to the great baths that still remained untouched. A fortnight's work with the pickaxe and gunpowder razed to the ground the two admirable monuments with which the Genoese and the Turks had adorned the town.

Xavier Hommaire de Hell (English translation, 1847)

About Crimean Tatars; Genoese; Turks

Keep in mind

The authors are hostile to Russian officials; the demolition itself is widely recorded, but the blame is their own judgement.

Continue in this sourceThe Hommaire de Hells in the Caspian steppes and the Crimea1838 to 1841 · 17 passages

Caffa: Tartar songs among the ruins

Editorial contextArriving at night at Theodosia, the old Caffa, Alexander found ruin on every side. He heard Tatars singing under an arch in a melancholy strain, as if mourning the decay of the once-flourishing city, and noted the crumbling citadel walls by the shore. The town's houses, he says, were built partly in the Tatar and partly in the Genoese style. From there he crossed the steppe by 'the commercial Tartar city of Karasubazar'.

we heard some Tartars under an arch singing in a most melancholy strain, and seemingly mourning over the decay of this once flourishing city: the dilapidated walls of a citadel were on the sea-shore, and near them was the stranded wreck of a Greek mystico. The houses of Caffa were built partly in the Tartar and partly in the Genoese style of architecture.

James Edward Alexander (1830)

About Crimean Tatars; the former Genoese colony

Keep in mind

'Seemingly mourning' is his romantic reading of a song he could not follow.

Continue in this sourceA British officer's ride through 'Crim Tartary' in 18291829 · 15 passages

Kaffa, 'Little Constantinople', in ruins

Editorial contextKaffa (Feodosia), called by the Tartars 'Little Constantinople', had been the Genoese capital in the Crimea and stayed populous under Tartar rule. After the Russian conquest and mass emigration it was 'a prodigious heap of ruins'. Pallas credits the strong freestone walls and towers, still almost whole, to the Genoese, and admires the great mosque in the centre of the town.

…though it was also called by the Tartars Kutshuk-Stambul, or Little Constantinople. Being erected in an excellent situation very favourable to commerce, it was the principal place in the Crimea, possessed by the Genoese. Even under the Tartar government, it was a populous town, flourishing by its trade,

Peter Simon Pallas (English translation, 1812 edition)

About Crimean Tatars; Genoese builders

Continue in this sourcePallas's travels through southern Russia and the Crimea1793 to 1794 · 20 passages

Caffa, a fallen Genoese trading city

Editorial contextCaffa (ancient Theodosia, modern Feodosia) belonged to the Turks, not the Khan. Chevalier describes it as a once-great Genoese trading port that had declined under Ottoman rule but still had five or six thousand houses and a mixed population, mostly Christian, with dozens of churches.

it was one of the most trading Towns of the Levant … yet there are still remaining about five or six thousand Houses; the Inhabitants are Greeks, Italians, the remainder of the Genoeses, Armenians, Jews, Turks and Tartars, but the most part of them are Christians

Pierre Chevalier (translated by Edward Brown, 1672)

About Crimean Tatars, Turks, Greeks, Armenians, Jews and Italians

Continue in this sourceA French officer's account of the Cossacks and the Crimean Tartars17th century · 13 passages

Kaffa: a walled port of many nations

Editorial contextThe fullest city description in his Tartary chapter is of Kaffa, the Genoese port in Crimea. He counts six thousand houses inside the inner wall and eleven thousand within the outer walls, three bishops (Roman, Greek and Armenian), Muslim and Jewish places of worship, and four thousand houses in the suburbs.

A city called Kaffa, which lies by the Black Sea, and is surrounded by two walls. Within one wall are six thousand houses, in which are Italians, Greeks, and Armenians; it is a chief city on the Black Sea

Johann Schiltberger (translated by J. Buchan Telfer, 1879)

About Genoese colony within Golden Horde territory

Keep in mind

Kaffa was built and run by the Genoese, not by the Tartars, though it lay in lands they claimed.

Continue in this sourceJohann Schiltberger's thirty years as a captive among Turks and Tartars1396 to 1427 · 11 passages

800,000 captives and old men given to boys

Editorial contextAfter the 1521 raid the Crimean khan is said to have driven off more than 800,000 prisoners, selling many to the Turks at Kaffa. Herberstein repeats the lurid claim that old captives, worth little at market, were handed to Tartar youths for practice in killing. He flags the numbers himself ('scarcely be considered credible', 'they say').

But he took with him from Moscow so great a multitude of prisoners as would scarcely be considered credible ; they say that the number exceeded eight hundred thousand, part of whom he sold in Kaffa to the Turks, and part he slew.

Sigismund von Herberstein (translated by R. H. Major, 1851-52)

About Crimean Tartars

Keep in mind

The figure is a rumour and far larger than is plausible; the slave trade through Kaffa itself is well documented.

Continue in this sourceHerberstein's Notes upon Russia (Muscovy and its Tartar neighbours)1517 to 1526 · 15 passages

Mamai flees to Kaffa, and the Genoese mock him with Batu's memory

Editorial contextIn the poem Mamai escapes from his army 'howling like a grey wolf' and runs to the city of Kaffa, the Genoese colony in Crimea. The Fryazi (Italians) jeer that he is no Batu: Batu had 400,000 armoured men and warred over the whole Russian land, while Mamai came with nine hordes and seventy princes and now flees with eight companions. Historically Mamai did flee to the Crimea and was killed near Kaffa.

You will never be like Tsar Batu: Tsar Batu had four hundred thousand armoured men, and he made war on the whole Russian land from east to west … And you came to the Russian land, Tsar Mamai, with great forces, with nine hordes and seventy princes, and now, pagan, you flee with eight companions to the sea-shore.

Working translation

Original wording

А не бывати тебѣ въ Батыя царя, у Батыя царя было четыреста тысячъ кованные рати, а воевалъ всю Русскую землю отъ востока и до запада … И ты пришелъ на Рускую землю, царь Мамай, съ многими силами, съ девятью ордами и семидесятью князьями, а нынѣ ты поганый бѣжишь самъ-девятъ въ лукоморье.

Zadonshchina (Kirillo-Belozersk text), words the poet gives to the Genoese of Kaffa, ed. I. I. Sreznevsky, 1858

About Mamai and the Golden Horde; Genoese (Fryazi) of Kaffa

Keep in mind

The flight to 'Khafesta grad' (Kaffa) is on the previous page, n31. The figures are poetic, not a muster roll.

Continue in this sourceZadonshchina: the Russian poem of the battle of Kulikovo1380 · 4 passages

3 sources and maps name this place

  1. 1303exact year
    The Cuman Codex
    WAnonymous Italian merchants and German Franciscans…firsthandW218
  2. c. 1550approximate
  3. c. 1579approximate