Written source · English

Mary Holderness's four years among the Crimean Tatars

An Englishwoman's close, first-hand notes on the daily life of the Crimean Tatars in their village of Karagoss, 1816 to 1820, published with her journey from Riga.

Full title Journey from Riga to the Crimea; Notes Relating to the Crim Tatars

Mary Holderness

Read the 13 passagesOpen the original book

Mary Holderness lived at the village of Karagoss, in the eastern Crimea near Feodosia, from 1816 to 1820. She first published 'Notes Relating to the Manners and Customs of the Crim Tatars' in 1821; this corpus copy is the second edition of 1827, which adds her 'Journey from Riga to the Crimea', chapters on the other colonists of New Russia (Nogays, Greeks, Bulgarians, Germans), and the revised Tatar notes. She attended Tatar weddings and funerals, visited Tatar cottages daily, and questioned her neighbours, so most of her detail is eyewitness, though she flags what she was 'told'. The Crimea had been annexed by Russia in 1783, a generation before she arrived.

How they knew
Eyewitness
Who “Tartar” means here
Almost always the Crimean Tatars (mountain, valley and steppe villagers, now Russian subjects), plus the Nogay Tatars of the Molochna steppe north of Crimea, whom the government had settled in villages.
Why read it
One of the best early close-ups of ordinary Crimean Tatar life: how their wattle-and-daub cottages were built, what was inside, weddings, burials, superstitions, dress and markets, from someone who lived next door for four years.
Watch out
Holderness writes as a devout English Protestant and sometimes judges Tatar religion and character; her population figures and some history come from others. The volume mixes the 1821 notes with later travel chapters, and the OCR occasionally garbles words.

What it says: 13 passages

Karasubazar, 'the first Tatar town'

Editorial contextArriving in Crimea, Holderness describes Karasubazar (today Bilohirsk) as a crowded market town of narrow, irregular streets and an extraordinary number of shops: about two hundred for fruit alone and as many again for Tatar shoes. Elsewhere she calls its people almost entirely Tatar and its market the cheapest in the Crimea.

This is the first Tatar town, and is much more singular than pleasing: narrow and irregular streets, presenting a most extraordinary number of shops, occupied by Tatars, Jews, Armenians, Russians, and Greeks. For the sale of fruit alone, there are said to be two hundred shops

Mary Holderness

About Crimean Tatars with Jews, Armenians, Russians and Greeks

CitiesBakhchysarai1803 figures, noted about 1820

Bakhchysarai's mosques and fountains

Editorial contextThe old Khans' capital, Holderness reports, was said to have had thirty-one mosques and seventy-five fountains in 1803. She adds that its fine fountains survived, while those of almost every other Crimean town had been destroyed.

Bachtcheserai is said to have contained, in 1803, thirty-one mosques, and seventy-five fountains: except Dr. Clarke, no late travellers have noticed the fine fountains which are still preserved here, though those of almost every other town have been destroyed.

Mary Holderness

About Crimean Tatars

Keep in mind

The mosque and fountain count is a reported figure, not her own count.

Staryi Krym, the old capital, in ruins

Editorial contextHolderness calls Starai Krim, 'once the capital of the peninsula', little better than a heap of ruins, its few inhabitants Armenian shopkeepers. In a footnote she says the ruins were very extensive and that the town had still been flourishing at the Russian conquest.

These ruins are very extensive, and we know that at the first conquest of the country by the Russians, it was a flourishing town, though not to be compared to what it was when held by the Genoese.

Mary Holderness (footnote)

About Crimean Tatars; Armenian shopkeepers

Keep in mind

Staryi Krym (the medieval Solkhat) was a Golden Horde and early Crimean Khanate centre; her remark that it was once 'held by the Genoese' may confuse it with nearby Genoese Caffa.

BuildingsCrimea1816 to 1820

How a Tatar cottage was built

Editorial contextHolderness gives a builder's-eye account of the ordinary Tatar house: oak stakes driven upright into the ground, woven through with branches, plastered inside and out and whitewashed, with an earth or marl roof, or tiles for richer families. Farm buildings used the same stakes and wattle, plastered with cow dung. This is about as far from 'lost stone cities' as it gets, and she saw it every day.

The cottages of the Tatar peasants, for cheapness of construction, rapidity of building, and simplicity of materials, are perhaps unrivalled … They are constructed of oaken stakes, whose ends are driven perpendicularly into the ground … into these, liggers are entwined, and the whole are well plastered within and without, and white-washed when dry.

Mary Holderness

About Crimean Tatar peasants

Keep in mind

'Liggers' are pliant rods or branches used as wattle.

Show 9 more passages

Steppe houses dug into the ground

Editorial contextOn the treeless steppe, Holderness says, Tatar houses were often dug down into the earth so deeply that they needed only a roof. She notes they were warmer in winter and cooler in summer than the usual plastered wooden huts.

The houses of the Stepp Tatars are often dug in the ground, to such a depth as to require only roofing to complete them. These being impervious to the air, are warmer in winter, and cooler in summer, than the usual huts, which are built of wood and plastered.

Mary Holderness

About Steppe Tatars of northern Crimea

BuildingsKaragoss (near Feodosia), Crimea1816 to 1820 (village abandoned after 1783)

A vanished Tatar village turned into an orchard

Editorial contextHolderness's own estate was a huge wild orchard made from the lands of a Tatar village of 1,700 people that had emptied after the Russian conquest. Only foundations, wells, the ruins of a Tatar bath and a mosque with its minaret remained. She is explicit that these ruins were a recent Tatar village, not something ancient or mysterious.

The village of Karagoss, at the time of the subjugation, contained 1700 inhabitants … Not a single house now remains within its circuit, though the foundations of them are to be found in every part … also the ruins of a Tatar bath, and a Tatar metchet, or mosque, the minaret of which, seen from all parts of the estate, embowered in wood, has a remarkably picturesque appearance

Mary Holderness

About Crimean Tatars

Keep in mind

The population figure at the conquest is presumably what she was told.

Daily lifeCrimea1816 to 1820

A bride carried home unseen

Editorial contextHolderness, often invited to village weddings, describes how the bride travelled in a curtained cart and was kept from every eye: she was given sherbet and a lamb at her new door, then, behind screens of blanketing, wrapped in a sheet and carried into the house by her brother.

When she reaches the door of her new prison, sherbet is brought her to drink, and some kind of sweetmeat is given with it. She is next presented with a lamb, which is actually put into the carriage with her … wrapped in a sheet, she is carried by her brother into the house.

Mary Holderness

About Crimean Tatars

Keep in mind

'New prison' is Holderness's own judgement.

Passports for the dead

Editorial contextAt an old woman's burial in Karagoss, Holderness watched the body laid in a side niche of the grave with papers written by the mulla: one on the breast describing the dead woman's character, one in the hand as a passport at the gates of Heaven, and one above the head warning the Evil One away. Stakes, hay, earth and stones then sealed the grave.

some papers written by the Mulla were disposed about it; one being placed on the breast, expressive of the character of the deceased; another in the hand, intended likewise as a sort of passport at the gates of Heaven; and a third above the head, which is said to be an intimation to the Evil One to refrain from disturbing the bones of a true believer.

Mary Holderness

About Crimean Tatars

Keep in mind

The meaning of each paper is what she was told; the Arabic texts were never translated for her.

Daily lifeCrimea1816 to 1820

Crimean Tatars deny ever eating horse

Editorial contextA striking correction to older European books: Holderness says the Crimean Tatars of her day did not eat horse meat and denied that they ever had. Seventeenth century writers such as Chevalier had made horse-flesh the signature Tartar food.

The custom of eating horse-flesh is not in use among the Crim Tatars of the present day, and they indeed deny that it was ever their practice.

Mary Holderness

About Crimean Tatars

Daily lifeCrimea1816 to 1820

Sheepskins, a knife and a pipe, but no guns

Editorial contextHolderness describes the Tatar winter outfit of felt cloak, sheepskin pelisse and lamb's-wool cap, with a knife, tobacco pouch, flint and steel. Under Russian rule they were not allowed firearms, and few still owned the bows of their forefathers; a local noble, Maksout Murza, had one made entirely of bone.

The sheep-skin pelisses and lamb's-wool caps, which are assumed by the Tatars in winter, increase not a little their savage looks … The use of fire-arms is not allowed them, and few remain possessed of the bows and arrows which were the national weapons of their forefathers. Maksout Murza has a bow which is formed entirely of bone.

Mary Holderness

About Crimean Tatars under Russian rule

The Nogays, a wandering horde made to settle

Editorial contextHolderness explains who the Nogay Tatars were: the old nomads of 'Nogay Tatary', who had roamed the steppes north of Crimea with tents, flocks and herds for ages. By her time the Russian government had gathered them into villages and pushed them to farm, though they still preferred grazing and horses.

The Nogay Tatars, if not the original inhabitants of the country, at least wandered over the immense Stepps of New Russia, with their tents, flocks, and herds, at the time of the Russian Conquest, and for ages before: this remnant of the Nomades of Nogay Tatary, are now collected together in a number of villages

Mary Holderness

About Nogay Tatars

Keep in mind

On the next page she describes the Nogays' moral character in very hostile terms, reflecting settler prejudice.

Walking dead for forty days

Editorial contextHolderness reports a startling belief: the spirits of wicked people walk for forty days after death, and then the grave must be opened and the corpse shot, beheaded or have its heart removed. She follows it with a Tatar neighbour's gentle answer on why every dead person got a good 'passport'.

The Tatars believe that the spirits of the bad walk for forty days after death. In this case, they say, it is requisite to uncover the grave, and either shoot the dead body, cut off its head, or take out its heart.

Mary Holderness

About Crimean Tatars

Keep in mind

Reported belief; she does not say she saw a grave opened.

Horse skulls against witchcraft

Editorial contextTatars and Bulgarian settlers alike stuck a horse's skull up near their houses to ward off witchcraft. Holderness links it, on hearsay, to the ancient Taurians, said to have used human skulls. On the same page a hired Tatar driver refuses to start a journey on a Tuesday, an unlucky day.

It is a very common custom in the Crimea, with the Tatars as well as the Bulgarian settlers, to stick up a horse's skull near their houses, in order to preserve them from witchcraft.

Mary Holderness

About Crimean Tatars and Bulgarian settlers

Keep in mind

The Taurian comparison is secondhand ('I am told').

The fine print

How we know

firsthand The author saw the places or people described.

Woman traveler / resident

Research notes
  • Distinguish separate notes and retrospective editing within the volume.

Why it matters

Local life, colonization and Crimean Tatar customs.

Places named

Crimea; southern Russia

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