Written source · English

Chardin's journey through Crimea and the Caucasus to Persia

A French jeweller's eyewitness account of Crimean Tatar towns and tents, Georgia and Persia, 1672 to 1673.

Full title The Travels of Sir John Chardin into Persia and the East-Indies

Jean Chardin

Read the 13 passagesOpen the original book

Jean Chardin (1643-1713), a Huguenot jeweller from Paris, made two long trading journeys to Persia. On the second he sailed from Constantinople to Caffa in Crimea in 1672, spent forty days there, crossed to Mingrelia and Georgia, and rode through Armenia to Isfahan in 1673, writing as he went. The first volume appeared in French and English in 1686. This corpus copy is the English edition of 1691, which also contains his earlier 'Coronation of Solyman III', with court history on Uzbeks and Kalmyks. Tartars are a side subject here, but he saw them close up.

How they knew
Part eyewitness
Who “Tartar” means here
The Crimean Tatars and Nogais of 'Lesser Tartary', the Uzbeks of Central Asia, the Kalmyks, and the medieval Mongol conquerors of Persia (Hulagu, Arghun, Ghazan, Tamerlane), all called Tartars.
Why read it
A sharp eye on building materials: Caffa built entirely of earth, a Tatar hamlet of a few houses ringed by felt tents and wagons, and ruined Persian cities credited to Mongol founders or Tartar raids.
Watch out
Crimea is only a few pages of a long book on Persia and the Caucasus. History and etymologies come from Persian informants and books; the Amazon and Abu'l-Ghazi stories are hearsay. The 1691 OCR is rough, with long s read as f.

What it says: 13 passages

Caffa: 4,000 houses, all of earth

Editorial contextChardin spent forty days at Caffa, the Ottoman port in Crimea. He counted about 4,000 houses, 3,200 of them Muslim (Turks and Tartars) and 800 Christian. Houses, markets, mosques and baths were all built of earth; the only stone buildings were eight decaying churches left by the Genoese. The strong walls and castles he describes were the Ottoman garrison's.

They reck'n about 4000 Houses to be in Caffa; of which 3200 are inhabited by Mahumetans, Turks and Tartars, and 800 by Christians, Greeks and Armenians

Jean Chardin (English translation, London, 1691)

About Turks and Crimean Tatars (with Greek and Armenian Christians)

Sultaniyeh, a royal city founded by Hulagu's descendants

Editorial contextPassing Sultaniyeh, Chardin saw fine public buildings, about 3,000 houses and vast ruins of churches, mosques and towers stretching west. Some said no one knew its founder; others said Arghun Khan, grandson of Hulagu, laid its foundations and his son finished it and named it 'the Royal City'. He adds on the same page that it was later wrecked by Tamerlane and by other Turkish and Tartar princes.

Others on the other side affirm, that the foundations of it were laid when the Sun was in Leo, by the order, and in the Reign of Ergon Can, the Son of Abkei-Can, and Grand-child of Halacou-Can; and that because it could not be finish'd in his days, his Son Jangou-Sultan compleated the work and call'd it Sultania, or the Royal City.

Jean Chardin (English translation, London, 1691)

About Mongol Ilkhans (Tartar khans of Persia)

Keep in mind

Chardin gives competing traditions about the founder; he saw the ruins himself.

Rey, 'the Market of the Universe', brought to nothing

Editorial contextNear Saveh Chardin passed the scattered traces of Rey, once, the Persian histories said, the greatest city in Asia, with incredible numbers of streets, baths and mosques. He blames its fall on sectarian wars together with Tartar incursions, and notes that a later prince tried to rebuild it after making peace with 'Cazan-Can, King of Persia, of the Race of the Tartars' (the Ilkhan Ghazan), but failed.

These Wars, together with the Incursions of the Tartars, destroy'd the Potent Rey, and reduc'd it to nothing before the end of the sixth Age of the Mahumetan Epoche.

Jean Chardin (English translation, London, 1691)

About Tartars (Mongols) and warring Muslim factions

Keep in mind

Taken from Persian and Arabic histories; the huge figures for Rey on the previous page Chardin himself doubts.

Earth-built mosques and baths, stone only from the Genoese

Editorial contextIn the same description Chardin is precise about materials: every house, bazaar, public building, mosque and bath in Caffa was built of earth. The only stone buildings were eight old churches the Genoese had built, now decaying. He credits the town's founding to the Greeks (as Theodosia) and its later growth to the Genoese.

The Houses are but small, and all built of Earth, as are also their Bazars or Market-places, their Publick Structures, Mosquees, and Baths. There is not one Building of Stone in all the City, except eight Churches somewhat gone to decay, formerly built by the Genoeses.

Jean Chardin (English translation, London, 1691)

About Turks and Crimean Tatars

Show 9 more passages

A Tatar village of ten houses and many felt tents

Editorial contextWhile his ship loaded salt, Chardin walked to a nearby Tatar settlement to buy food. He saw only ten or twelve houses and a little mosque, but round them many tents, round and square, and closed covered wagons that served as houses. The best tents were made of poles laid crosswise and covered with light felts, with an opening at the top for light and smoke, a felt door, and carpets on walls and floor.

About a Mile from the Shoar there is a Habitation of the Tartars, whither I went with some of my Servants to buy Provisions, but I did not see in all that place above Ten or Twelve Houses with a little Mosquee. Only round about it there was a great Number of Tents, Round and Square

Jean Chardin (English translation, London, 1691)

About Crimean Tatars

An Armenian monastery levelled by the Tartars and rebuilt in brick

Editorial contextAt Etchmiadzin, seat of the Armenian patriarch, Chardin was told the first monastery was built by the patriarch Nerses and ruined by the Tartars, and that it had been levelled five times in all. What he saw was built of brick. Here Tartars appear as destroyers, not builders.

The first Monastery of this Church was built by Nierses the Twenty Ninth Patriarch of Armenia: This the Tartars ruin'd; and if we may believe the Chronology of the Place, it had been Five times levell'd with the Ground: It is at present built of Brick

Jean Chardin (English translation, London, 1691)

About Tartars (Mongol and later invaders)

A captive Tartar prince who galloped home from Isfahan

Editorial contextChardin tells the court story of 'Abouel-Kazi', a prince of Khwarazm captured in a Persian victory over the Uzbeks. Shah Safi treated him as royalty in Isfahan for ten years, until he feigned illness, went to a spa, and rode off with twenty Uzbek horsemen sent to fetch him. He became khan and stayed a friend of Persia. This is Abu'l-Ghazi Bahadur, khan of Khiva, later author of a famous history of the Turks.

To whom the Yusbeck Prince thus briskly answer'd; I am highly oblig'd to the King of Persia, but I owe more my own Country and Relations that call me back. 'Tis my Father that sends me these Men, to facilitate my return to my Native soil

Jean Chardin, 'The Coronation of Solyman III' (appended to the 1691 English edition)

About Uzbeks of Khwarazm (Khiva)

Keep in mind

Court gossip retold decades later; details such as the role of the prince's father may not match other accounts.

Hidden grain pits and a camp struck in half an hour

Editorial contextThe same Tatars stored grain and fodder in deep pits in the ground, covered so skilfully that only the diggers could find them again, dug either inside the tents or out in the fields. When they moved on, tents came down and were loaded in less than half an hour, carried by oxen and horses. He adds they were Muslims 'intermix'd with strange superstitions' about fortune-telling.

The Tartars store up their Corn and their Forrage, as do all the Country-People in the East, in deep Pits under Ground which they call Amber, or Magazines. Which they cover so exactly, that you cannot discern where they have remov'd the Earth

Jean Chardin (English translation, London, 1691)

About Crimean Tatars

Why no empire can conquer people who move every month

Editorial contextExplaining why the Ottomans do not try to rule the Caucasus and the steppe directly, Chardin argues that settled people in towns can be conquered and held, but people who move all their lives cannot. It is his own reflection, but it neatly explains why steppe peoples were so hard for empires to pin down.

For if the People that inhabit those parts, were united into Cities and strong Places, there might be a way found to reduce 'em, and keep 'em in Subjection. But which way is it possible to subdue a People that change their Habitations every Month, and all their Life-time wander up and down the Country?

Jean Chardin (English translation, London, 1691)

About Nomads of 'Tartary and Scythia'

Keep in mind

Chardin's own opinion, not a report of what he saw.

'Tartary full of towns' and the meaning of 'horde'

Editorial contextArriving at Caffa, Chardin explains the map names. Geographers call Crimea 'Crim Tartary', which he takes to mean 'Tartary full of towns', because Crimean Tatars mostly live in towns, at least in winter, unlike the Nogais outside the peninsula, who live in hordes. Horde, he adds, is a Turkish and Persian word for an army camp or a court's train. Together they make 'Lesser Tartary', as against the Asian Tartars beyond the Sea of Azov.

The Modern Geographers call it Crim Tartary and Precopensian Tartary. As much as to say Tartary full of Towns; to distinguish the Tartars of this Peninsula that live for the most part in Cities, especially all the Winter long, from those other European Tartars, which inhabit without the Peninsula, call'd Nogays … Hordes or Hordou, a word which signifies an Assembly

Jean Chardin (English translation, London, 1691)

About Crimean Tatars and Nogais

Keep in mind

This etymology is Chardin's own and is not the usual explanation of the name.

'Yusbek': a hundred lords, or 'he is the lord'?

Editorial contextChardin gives two etymologies for the Uzbeks. Persians derived it from 'yuz' (a hundred) and 'bek' (lord), mocking a land split among a hundred petty princes; the Uzbeks rejected that and said it meant 'he is the lord'. He adds that Tartar and Turkish are one language, Turkish being a dialect of it.

They are called Yusbecks, at least if the Persian Etymology be true, by reason of the great number of Sovereign Princes by which the Tartars are Govern'd; for Yus, as well in the Language of the Tartars as Turks, which is but a Dialect of it, signifies a hundred, and Bek, Lords

Jean Chardin, 'The Coronation of Solyman III' (appended to the 1691 English edition)

About Uzbeks, whom Chardin calls the Tartars of Lesser Tartary

The nameCentral Asiawritten about 1670s

'Turk' means a man from the highlands of Tartary

Editorial contextChardin insists that the true 'Turkey' is the vast highland of Tartary, homeland of both the Turkmen herders and the Ottomans' ancestors. In the East, he says, 'Turk' simply means someone from those highlands, and Ottoman subjects find the name barbarous. He also scolds European travellers who write about countries without knowing the language.

For that among them Turk signifies one that comes from those High-lands of Tartary, let it be from what part it will.

Jean Chardin, 'The Coronation of Solyman III' (appended to the 1691 English edition)

About Turkmens and Turks, as seen from Persia

Amazons near the Kalmyks, and an Amazon's dress in the palace

Editorial contextIn Georgia Chardin asked about the Amazons of classical legend. He met no one who had been to their country, but many told stories, and in the prince's palace he was shown a large woman's garment of coarse wool said to have belonged to an Amazon killed near Kakheti. The Georgian prince's son told him a numerous unknown people lived five days north, always at war with 'the Tartars, which they call Calmac'.

I confess, I never saw any Person in Georgia who had been in the Country of the Amazons; but I have heard many of 'em tell Stories of those People. And they shew'd me in the Prince's Palace, a large Female habit of a course Woollen Stuff

Jean Chardin (English translation, London, 1691)

About Kalmyks (as the Georgians called them) and a legendary people beyond

Keep in mind

Chardin reports the stories but, on the next page, rejects the classical details as Greek fables.

The fine print

How we know

firsthand The author saw the places or people described.

Merchant traveler / resident

Research notes
  • Verified edition covers a portion of a larger travel corpus; peripheral regions must be selected.

Why it matters

Neighboring accounts for routes, buildings, trade and culture.

Places named

Caucasus; Black Sea; Persia

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