Written source · German

Georgi's travel journal from Lake Baikal to Kazan

A German academician's day-by-day journal of 1772 to 1774, from the Buryats of Lake Baikal to the Tatar villages, tombs and mosques of the Urals and Kazan.

Full title Observations of a Journey in the Russian Empire in the Year 1772 (and in 1773 and 1774), 2 volumes, with the new map of Lake Baikal

Johann Gottlieb Georgi

Read the 11 passagesOpen the original book

Johann Gottlieb Georgi, a naturalist of the St Petersburg Academy, sailed round Lake Baikal in 1772 and then travelled west through the Urals, Bashkiria and the Volga to Kazan in 1773 and 1774. He wrote down what he saw each day: mines and ironworks, plants, and the villages, graves and customs of the people he met. The first volume covers Baikal, the Buryats and Tungus; the second covers the journey home, with Tatar villages, old Muslim cemeteries near Ufa read aloud for him by mullahs, the ruins of Old Kazan and a Tatar written tradition about Kazan's founding. The corpus holds the 1775 first edition (volume 2 in a good Bavarian State Library scan, volume 1 in a Google scan).

How they knew
Eyewitness
Who “Tartar” means here
Mainly the Muslim Turkic Tatars of Kazan, the Urals and western Siberia, plus Bashkirs and Meshcheryaks; Georgi calls the Buryats and Mongols 'Mongolian' peoples, not Tatars.
Why read it
It is one of the few eyewitness accounts that stops to measure and describe old Tatar tombs and mausoleums (stone, mortar, vaults, inscriptions) and to record what local Tatars themselves said about who built Kazan.
Watch out
The Fraktur OCR is badly damaged on some pages (the Kazan pages and the tomb inscriptions), so only clean passages are quoted. Georgi's Kazan founding story is a Tatar written legend he had translated, not history he checked.

What it says: 11 passages

CitiesKazanlate 14th century (as told in a Tatar written tradition); recorded 1774

Tamerlane takes the Bolghar capital and a prince founds Old Kazan

Editorial contextAfter visiting the ramparts of Old Kazan (Iske Kazan), where he saw rubble stone and the gravestones of Tatar princes, Georgi gives a Tatar written account translated for him. It says Tamerlane took the Bolghar capital after a seven-year siege and killed its khan, and that the surviving prince found the old city too large and splendid to restore, so he built a smaller town on the Kazanka instead.

He also took the Bolghar capital Brechimova after a seven-year siege, capturing and killing the Bolghar khan Abdullah … but because Brechimova had been too large and splendid, the eldest prince, Altyn Bek, did not dare to restore it, and instead built a lesser place at Iske Kazan on the Kazanka.

Working translation

Original wording

Er eroberte auch nach einer 7jährigen Belagerung die Bolgharische Hauptstadt Brechimowa, wobey er den Bolgharischen Chan Abdulah gefangen bekam und ihn tödtete … weil aber Brechimowa zu groß und prächtig gewesen, wagte sich der älteste Prinz Altyn Bek nicht an deren Herstellung, sondern erbauete im Iska Kasan einen geringern Ort an der Kasanka.

A Tatar written tradition, translated for Georgi through a Mr Bardanes

About Volga Bolghars and Kazan Tatars

Keep in mind

A local Tatar legend; Georgi himself notes the chronology only works if 'Temir Lan' is Tamerlane at the end of the 14th century.

Kazan's Tatar suburbs and their stone mosques

Editorial contextGeorgi describes the Tatars as a large part of Kazan's population, living in two suburbs (slobodas). The first had two fine stone mosques whose minarets, he says, were built in the same style as those among the ruins of Bolghar; the second had two wooden mosques and was founded about a century earlier by Tatars who preferred leaving Kazan to suffering restrictions on their worship.

The town Tatars live in two suburbs or slobodas … The first has two fine stone mosques, whose towers (minarets) are of the same style as those found among the ruins of Bolghar. … The second sloboda has two wooden mosques. It arose almost 100 years ago, when the Tatars felt their religious practice was being restricted and preferred to move out of Kazan rather than suffer it.

Working translation

Original wording

Die Stadttataren wohnen in zwey Vorstädten oder Sloboden … Die erste hat zwey schöne steinerne Metscheden, deren Thürme (Mesgir) von der Bauart der unter den Ruinen von Bolghari befindlichen sind. … Die zweyte Slobode hat 2 hölzerne Metscheds. Sie entstand fast vor 100 Jahren, da sich die Tataren in ihren Religionsübungen beeinträchtigt glaubten und lieber aus Kasan ziehen, als leiden wollten.

Johann Gottlieb Georgi

About Kazan Tatars (town Tatars)

A walled Tatar burial chapel on the Dema steppe

Editorial contextIn the middle of a large old cemetery near the Dema river, Georgi measured a masonry burial chapel that the Tatars call astana. It was square, built of sandstone and limestone slabs laid in mortar, about 4 fathoms across, and its vault had long since fallen in, so that a bird-cherry tree had grown inside. He had the local mullahs read its Arabic and Tatar inscription, which gave a death date in the year 744 of the Hijra.

Almost in the middle of the burial ground stands a walled burial chapel, which the Tatars call astana. It is built square of sandstone and limestone slabs with mortar, exactly square. Inside it measures 4 fathoms across … One fathom above the floor, in the corners, rise the [supports] that carried the vault, which however fell in long ago

Working translation

Original wording

Fast mitten auf dem Begräbnißplatze steht eine gemauerte Begräbnißkapelle, die die Tataren Astana nennen. Sie ist von Sand- und Kalkfliesen viereckig mit Mörtel aufgeführet, genau viereckig. Im Lichten hat sie 4 Klafter im Durchmesser … Ein Klafter über dem Fußboden setzen in den Ecken die … an, welche das Gewölbe trugen, daß aber vorlängst eingestürzet

Johann Gottlieb Georgi

About Tatars (old Muslim burials, read by local mullahs)

Keep in mind

Some words on this page are lost in the scan; the inscription itself is printed on the next leaf, whose OCR is unreadable.

A whitewashed stone tomb with an eight-sided roof

Editorial contextGeorgi describes a village named Tirma after an old Tatar tomb building (tirma) that still stood nearby. It was built of stone, square inside and 4 fathoms across, well vaulted and whitewashed within, with the vault serving as an eight-sided roof ending in a point. Just before this, on the same page, he watched visiting mullahs wash in a lake, take off their boots and pray at the older tomb, and heard them reckon it at 434 years old.

This tirma stands 1 verst below the village, on the left bank of the Slak, on a hill. It is built of stone, square, 4 fathoms across inside, well vaulted and whitewashed inside. The vault is also the roof, which is eight-sided and ends in a point.

Working translation

Original wording

Diese Tirma steht 1 Werst unter dem Dorfe an der Linken des Slaks auf einem Hügel. Sie ist von Steinen aufgeführet, viereckig, im Lichten 4 Klafter im Durchmesser, gut gewölbt und inwendig weiß getünchet. Das Gewölbe ist zugleich das Dach, daß achteckig mit einer Spitze ausläuft.

Johann Gottlieb Georgi

About Tatars (old tomb, near a Meshcheryak village)

Show 7 more passages

Tatar villages that look like Russian ones

Editorial contextPassing Tatar villages on the Iren, Georgi notes that these farmers were poor but very clean, and that their timber houses differed from poor Russian peasant houses only in cleanliness and their wide sleeping platforms. Each village had a mosque in a 'wretched hut' and a mullah, and the best graves in their cemetery were surrounded by a low frame of logs.

Their dwellings differ from poor Russian peasant houses only in this [their cleanliness] and in the wide sleeping platforms. Each village has its chapel (mosque) in a wretched hut, and a mullah. Near Kardieva the road went over their burial ground on the wooded bank of the Turka. It had no enclosure, but the best graves are [surrounded] by a

Working translation

Original wording

Ihre Wohnungen unterscheiden sich blos hiedurch und durch die breiten Schlafgestelle von den armen Rußischen Bauerhäusern. Jedes Dorf hat seine Kapelle (Metsched) in einer kläglichen Hütte und einen Mula. Bey Kardiewa gieng der Weg über ihren Begräbnißplatz (Uljan) auf dem waldigen Ufer des Turka. Er hatte keine Einfassung, aber die besten Gräber sind mit einem

Johann Gottlieb Georgi

About Kazan Tatars settled in the Urals

Hundreds of graves marked with family signs

Editorial contextOn a high steppe field Georgi found an old burial ground of 400 to 800 graves, neither raised nor fenced, marked by upright cut sandstones. Most stones carried only the dead person's personal mark, the tamga, which people used instead of signing their name; broader stones added an Arabic prayer and the year of death. With his own mullah and those of nearby villages he had many epitaphs read.

400 to 800 graves marked with gravestones. The graves themselves are neither raised nor enclosed. … Most of these [stones] are four-sided or somewhat flat sandstones cut like columns … on most of them only the hand-mark (Tatar tamga) is carved, which the dead person used [to use] instead of signing his name

Working translation

Original wording

400 bis 800 mit Grabsteinen gezeichnete Gräber. Die Gräber selbst sind weder erhoben, noch eingefaßt. … Diese bestehen der grössesten Zahl nach aus säulenförmig gehauenen, vierseitigen oder etwas platten Sandsteinen … den mehresten ist blos da Handzeichen (Tatarisch Tamgar) dessen sich der Verstorbene statt der Unterschrift des Namens zu bedienen

Johann Gottlieb Georgi

About Tatars

Keep in mind

The OCR reads 'Tamgar'; the word is the Turkic tamga, a clan or personal mark.

A Buryat chief's Buddhist shrine tent

Editorial contextGeorgi visited the Khori Buryat chief (taisha) Dorzhi, who kept a separate yurt for Lamaist (Tibetan Buddhist) worship, with a prayer wheel at the door. Inside were images of the Buddhas (burkhans), silver offering bowls and censers, long horns, cymbals and conch shells, and five chests of Mongol and Tibetan books. Among them, treated with great respect, was a Church Slavonic Psalter.

This man had a special burkhan-yurt for Lamaist worship. In front of it stood a prayer wheel (khürdü). The yurt was full of burkhans [Buddha images], offering bowls, long musical instruments, lama robes, rosaries and books. … Among them was also a neatly bound Psalter of David in the Slavonic language, which was treated with great reverence.

Working translation

Original wording

Dieser Mann hatte eine besondere Burchanjurte für den Lamaischen Götzendienst. Vor derselben stand eine Bethmühle (Kurdu). Die Jurte war voll von Burchanen, Opferschälchen, langen musikalischen Instrumenten, Lamakleidern, Rosenkränzen und Büchern. … Unter denselben befand sich auch der sauber gebundene Davidische Psalter in Sklawonischer Sprache, dem sehr ehrwürdig begegnet wurde.

Johann Gottlieb Georgi

About Khori Buryats (a Mongol people)

Keep in mind

Georgi calls the Buryats a Mongol people, not Tatars; they belong here as the kind of people older European maps placed in 'Tartary'.

Bashkirs who lived on soured mare's milk

Editorial contextOn the steppe near the Yuryuzan, Georgi met Bashkirs with small herds, some with fewer than 50 horses, who lived only on soured mare's milk and were plump and cheerful. The Meshcheryak Tatars nearby did not migrate, farmed very little and in summer also lived on kumys like the Bashkirs.

The Bashkirs had small herds, some fewer than 50 horses; yet they lived only on soured mare's milk and were plump and lively.

Working translation

Original wording

Die Baschkiren hatten kleine Heerden und mancher unter 50 Pferden; doch lebten sie blos von gesäuerter Pferdemilch und waren feist und munter.

Johann Gottlieb Georgi

About Bashkirs and Meshcheryak Tatars

Kazan means 'kettle'

Editorial contextGeorgi opens his description of Kazan with its name in several languages and a gloss: in Russian and Tatar a kazan is the cauldron from which a family eats. He then calls it the capital of the Tatar kingdom of Kazan conquered by Ivan IV in 1552. The previous pages tell the Tatar legend that the city was named after a servant's kettle that fell into the Kazanka.

Kazan (in Russian and Tatar a kettle from which a family eats), Kosan in Votyak and Chuvash, Oson in Cheremis, the capital of the Tatar kingdom of Kazan conquered in 1552 by the great Tsar Ivan Vasilyevich

Working translation

Original wording

Kasan (Rußisch und Tatarisch ein Kessel, aus welchem eine Familie speiset), Kosan Wotjakisch und Tschuwaschisch, Oson Tscheremissisch die Hauptstadt des 1552 von dem grossen Zaar Iwan Waßiljewitsch eroberten Tatarisch-Kasanischen Reichs

Johann Gottlieb Georgi

About Kazan Tatars

Strange talesKazanlegendary founding of Kazan; recorded 1774

The sorcerer, the snakes and the dragon on Kazan's coat of arms

Editorial contextIn the same Tatar tradition, the site of the new Kazan was infested with snakes. A sorcerer gathered them all in autumn, piled wood on them in winter and burned them in spring, while pigs were driven off by setting the forest alight. A two-headed winged serpent, 'or rather a dragon', fled to Snake Hill and was finally killed by the sorcerer's arts; the khan took it for his arms, and Georgi notes it is still the city's coat of arms.

A sorcerer gathered all the snakes in one place in autumn, had wood carted onto them in winter and burned them in spring. … A two-headed winged serpent, or rather a dragon, fled to Dzhilantau (Snake Hill) and was terrible there, but it was finally killed by the sorcerer's arts and chosen by the khan as his coat of arms in remembrance.

Working translation

Original wording

Die Schlangen versammlete ein Zauberer des Herbstes alle an einen Ort, lies im Winter Holz auf denselben führen und verbrannte sie im Frühlinge. … Eine zweyköpfige geflügelte Schlange oder vielmehr ein Drache entflohe nach dem Dshilantau (Schlangenberge) und war daselbst fürchterlich, sie ward aber doch endlich durch die Künste des Zauberers getödtet und zur Erinnerung vom Chan zum Wapen erwählt.

A Tatar written tradition, translated for Georgi

About Kazan Tatars (founding legend)

Keep in mind

Legend, reported as the Tatars' own account; Georgi does not endorse it.

A sung city with walls of wood, stone and iron

Editorial contextGeorgi wrote down a heroic tale the Tungus sang, whose hero names he judged to be Mongol. It begins with a prince living in a city with a triple wall, the outer of wood, the middle of stone and the inner of iron, yet dwelling in a yurt with a steel post for his horse. Later his daughter, turned into an eagle, finds a silver yurt with a golden roof on a hill with silver grass and lakes of milk. It shows how steppe epics imagined walled cities alongside tents.

In a kingdom lived Prince Dolodai, who had 2000 servants, and they lived in a city with a triple wall, the outer of wood, the middle of stone and the inner of iron. At the door of his yurt stood a pillar of steel, to which he tied his splendid horse.

Working translation

Original wording

In einem Reiche war der Fürst Dolodai, welcher 2000. Knechte hatte, und in einer Stadt mit einer dreyfachen Mauer, die äussere hölzern, die mittlere steinern und die innere eisern, wohnten. An der Thüre seiner Jurte stand eine Säule von Stahl, an welche er sein Prachtpferd band.

A Tungus sung tale, as written down by Georgi

About Tungus (Evenki) singers of a tale with Mongol heroes

Keep in mind

A folk epic, not a description of a real place; Georgi thought the Tungus had taken it from the Mongols.

The fine print

How we know

firsthand The author saw the places or people described.

firsthand observation: Georgi travelled with Falck then Pallas, circumnavigated Lake Baikal 1772 and crossed the Barabinsk steppe and Ural

Research notes
  • Partly overlaps with Pallas's Reise for 1772-1773 since they travelled together in stretches.

Why it matters

Detailed eyewitness ethnography of the Baikal Buryats and of the Irkutsk frontier with Qing Mongolia in the 1770s; includes the first accurate survey of Lake Baikal (separate IA map item neuecartedesbaikalseeswelchebeyumschiffu73).

Places named

Lake Baikal; Transbaikalia; Irkutsk; Barabinsk steppe; Ural; Kazan

Peoples named

Mongols and the Mongol empire
Indigenous peoples of Siberia and the North Pacific
Golden Horde and its Tatar successor khanates
Turkic and Central Asian peoples and states
Jurchen and Manchus (incl. the Qing as a Manchu dynasty)

Buryats; Tunguses; Siberian Tatars; Bashkirs; Kazakh frontier; Qing frontier

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