Written source · Russian

The Book of the Great Map: Muscovy's road book of the steppe

A 1627 government description of a lost map of Muscovy and its steppe borderlands, listing rivers, fords, Tatar raiding roads, ruined mosques and Crimean palaces.

Full title Book of the Great Map, or Ancient Map of the Russian State, renewed in the Razriad and written into a book in 1627 (2nd edition, 1838)

Книга Большому чертежу, или Древняя карта Российского государства, поновленная в Разряде и списанная в книгу 1627 года

Razriad (Military Chancellery) of Muscovy; edition by D. I. Yazykov

Read the 12 passagesOpen the original book

Clerks of the Razriad (Military Chancellery) wrote this book in 1627 to describe the 'Great Map' (Bolshoi Chertezh) of about 1600, which had worn out, together with a new map of the southern steppe. It is a dry, systematic list of rivers, distances, towns, fords and roads, compiled from service route books and scouts' reports rather than from travel by the authors. Along the way it notes Tatar raiding routes and the watch posts set against them, the Crimean khan's stone palaces at Bakhchysarai, the stone mosques of the ruined Golden Horde on the Akhtuba and on the Kuma, and stone idols in the steppe. The corpus copy is D. I. Yazykov's 2nd edition (1838), with the first edition of 1773 ('Drevniaia rossiiskaia idrografiia') alongside.

How they knew
Official record
Who “Tartar” means here
Crimean Tatars and their khan ('tsar'), the Nogais (Great and Lesser Nogai), the Tatars of Belgorod (Akkerman) on the Dniester, and more loosely the builders of the Golden Horde; the 'Nogai side' and 'Crimean side' of rivers are the steppe banks where these nomads roamed.
Why read it
It shows what Moscow's officials actually knew about the steppe around 1600: which Tatar roads led into Rus, where the fords were, and what stood on the land. Where it finds ruins of stone mosques it calls them Tatar and names the Golden Horde; it lists the Crimean khan's palaces as stone and Crimean villages as wood daubed with clay.
Watch out
A description of a lost map, not an eyewitness journey; distances are rough and some names are garbled between manuscripts (the 1838 editor prints variants in brackets). The book describes places, not people, so its notes on customs are brief.

What it says: 12 passages

CitiesPerekop, CrimeaAbout 1600 to 1627

Perekop: a stone town and a ditch across the isthmus

Editorial contextAt the neck of the Crimea stood Perekop, 'a stone town' where Crimean Tatars and Turks lived, with artillery. A ditch ran from sea to sea across six versts, two sazhens wide and three deep, with stone towers along it. Beyond the ditch people ploughed fields. A precise official description of a Crimean Tatar fortress.

And in Perekop there is a stone town, and Crimean Tatars and Turks live in it, and there is artillery in the town. And Perekop runs from sea to sea for 6 versts, and across Perekop [the ditch] is some two slanting sazhens, and three sazhens deep, and along the ditch stand stone towers too

Working translation

Original wording

А въ Перекопи городъ каменной, а въ немъ живутъ Крымскіе Татара и Турчаня, и нарядъ въ городѣ есть. А Перекопи отъ моря до моря на 6 верстахъ, а поперегъ Перекопи съ двѣ сажени косыхъ, а въ глубину три сажени, а по рву стоятъ башни каменныяжъ

Book of the Great Map (1627), ed. Yazykov (1838)

About Crimean Tatars and Turks

Keep in mind

The editor glosses 'nariad' as artillery.

Kozlov, a stone town, and Tatar villages with dug wells

Editorial contextComing from Perekop, the book notes on the right, by the sea, the stone town of Kozlov (the 1838 editor adds: now Yevpatoria). Between the Alma, Bakhchysarai and Kozlov, Tatar villages lined both sides of the road, watered by dug wells because there were no rivers. Crimea appears as a settled country of towns and villages as well as nomads.

And travelling from Perekop, on the right, on the seashore, is the stone town of Kozlov. … And from the Alma to Bakhchysarai and to Kozlov, on both sides of the road, are Tatar villages, and the water is from dug wells, and there are no rivers.

Working translation

Original wording

Да отъ Перекопи ѣдучи, на правѣ, у моря на берегу, городъ Козлевъ каменной. … А отъ Алмы до Бакчисарая, и до Козлева, по обѣ стороны дороги, деревни Татарскія, а воды копаные колодези, а рѣкъ нѣтъ.

Book of the Great Map (1627), ed. Yazykov (1838)

About Crimean Tatars

A note on this quote

The scan is too rough to double-check this quote by machine. Compare it with the page.

CitiesLower DnieperAbout 1600 to 1627

Mamai's Sarai and Uslam's little towns on the Dnieper

Editorial contextOn the lower Dnieper the book lists a little town called 'Mamai's Sarai' (palace), and below it 'Uslam's little towns', while along the Konskie Vody stand '7 keshens of Tatar mosques'. The first name ties the place to Mamai, the 14th-century Horde commander defeated at Kulikovo. The clerks record the ruins as Tatar but say nothing more about who built them or when.

And on the right side of the Konskie Vody, 60 versts from the Dnieper, are 7 keshens of Tatar mosques. … And below the Moskovka, on the Crimean side, 50 versts, on the Dnieper is the little town of Mamai's Sarai. And 50 versts below Mamai's Sarai, on the Dnieper, are Uslam's little towns.

Working translation

Original wording

А по правой сторонѣ Конскихъ-водъ, отъ Днѣпра 60 верстъ, 7 Кешеней Татарскихъ мечетей. … Да ниже Московки, съ Крымской стороны 50 верстъ, на Днѣпрѣ городокъ Мамаевъ-сарай. А ниже Мамаева-сарая 50 верстъ, на Днѣпрѣ Усламовы городки.

Book of the Great Map (1627), ed. Yazykov (1838)

About Tatars (named after the Horde leader Mamai)

Keep in mind

The book gives names only; 'keshen' is the Turkic word for a domed tomb.

The scan is too rough to double-check this quote by machine. Compare it with the page.

BuildingsBakhchysaraiAbout 1600 to 1627

The khan's stone palaces and clay-daubed wooden houses

Editorial contextThe khan had two residences, one at Bakhchysarai and one on the Alma. At Bakhchysarai the khan's 'palaty' (chambers), kitchens and stables were of stone, set low under a hill, with a church of the Virgin two versts away served by Greeks. The Alma court had one stone chamber and wooden houses plastered with clay, standing in a vineyard. It is a rare early note on Crimean Tatar building materials.

And in Bakhchysarai the tsar's chambers, kitchens and stables are of stone, and it stands low beneath a hill; and about 2 versts beyond the tsar's court is a church of the Most Pure Mother of God in the salt flats, and Greeks serve in it. And the court on the river Alma has one stone chamber, and wooden houses daubed with clay, and it stands on the bank in a vineyard.

Working translation

Original wording

А въ Бакчисараѣ палаты Царевы, поварни и конюшни, каменныя, а стоитъ подъ горою ниско; да за Царевымъ дворомъ версты съ 2, церковь Пречистыя Богородицы въ солончакахъ, а служатъ у нее Гречане. А которой дворъ на рѣкѣ на Алмѣ, и въ томъ дворѣ одна палата, да избы деревянныя, обмазанныя глиною, а стоитъ на берегу въ виноградѣ.

Book of the Great Map (1627), ed. Yazykov (1838)

About The Crimean khan ('tsar'); Greek Christians

Keep in mind

The church is probably the Uspensky cave monastery near Bakhchysarai; 'palata' in 17th-century Russian usually means a masonry building.

Show 8 more passages

'The Golden Horde': stone Tatar mosques on the Akhtuba

Editorial contextIn one line the book marks the ruins of the Golden Horde's capital: 90 versts along the Akhtuba from Tsaritsyn lies 'the Golden Horde, stone Tatar mosques'. By 1600 the city was a field of ruins, and Muscovite clerks named both the builders (the Horde) and the material (stone).

And along the river Akhtuba, 90 versts from Tsaritsyn, is the Golden Horde, stone Tatar mosques.

Working translation

Original wording

А по рѣкѣ по Ахтубѣ на 90 верстахъ отъ Царицына, Золотая орда, мечети Татарскія каменныя.

Book of the Great Map (1627), ed. Yazykov (1838)

About The Golden Horde (its ruined capital)

Keep in mind

The book gives no date or builder name beyond 'Golden Horde'; the identification with Sarai (Tsarev settlement) is by later scholars.

Seven Tatar mosques at Majar on the Kuma

Editorial contextOn the right bank of the Kuma the book lists '7 Tatar mosques, the Majar yurt', and another mosque across the river, the 'Chrak-Keshen'. These are the ruins of Majar, a Golden Horde town. The word 'keshen' (keshene, a domed tomb) appears again on the Dnieper, where the book records '7 keshens of Tatar mosques'. The clerks credit the ruins to Tatars.

And along the river Kuma, on the right side, are 7 Tatar mosques, the Majar yurt, and a mosque on the other side of the river Kuma, Chrak-Keshen.

Working translation

Original wording

А по рѣкѣ по Кумѣ, съ правыя стороны, 7 мечетей Татарскихъ, Мажаровъ юртъ, да мечеть, по другой сторонѣ рѣки Кумы, Чракъ-Кешень.

Book of the Great Map (1627), ed. Yazykov (1838)

About Ruined Golden Horde town of Majar

A note on this quote

The scan is too rough to double-check this quote by machine. Compare it with the page.

BuildingsYelabugaAbout 1600 to 1627

The Devil's Fort, 'also Yelabuga'

Editorial contextListing places on the Kama below the Ik, the book notes 'the Devil's gorodishche', with the variant reading 'the Devil's town, also Yelabuga'. This is the same haunted ruin that the author of the History of the Kazan Tsardom credited to the 'old Bulgars'. The map book gives only the name and position.

And 40 versts below the river Ik, on the river Kama, is the Devil's gorodishche [the Devil's town, also Yelabuga].

Working translation

Original wording

А ниже Ика рѣки 40 верстъ, на рѣкѣ на Камѣ городище Чортово [градъ Чортовъ, Елабуга тожь].

Book of the Great Map (1627), ed. Yazykov (1838), with a variant reading in brackets

About Unnamed builders (a ruin on the Kama)

Daily lifeRyl'sk, Karachev, Orel and Bolkhov districts16th century

The Pig Road: how the Belgorod Tatars came raiding

Editorial contextThe book records the raiding roads the Tatars used. Along the 'Svinaia doroga' (Pig Road) the Belgorod Tatars from the Dnieper used to ride on the Rylsk, Karachev, Orel and Bolkhov districts, led by Bakai Murza, 'when there were no steppe towns yet'. They crossed the Seim 40 versts below Kursk, where there were now villages and a watch post. Muscovy's southern towns were built along these routes to block them.

And by the Pig Road the Belgorod Tatars used to come from the Dnieper onto the Rylsk and Karachev and Orel and Bolkhov districts; Bakai Murza used to come, when there were not yet the steppe towns; and they used to cross the Seim river below the Gorodensk gorodishche, about 40 versts below Kursk

Working translation

Original wording

А Свиною дорогою прихаживали отъ Днѣпра Бѣлогородскіе Татарове, на Рыльскіе, и на Карачевскіе, и на Орловскіе, и на Болховскіе уѣзды, хаживали Бакай Мурза, какъ не было Польскихъ городовъ, а Семь рѣку лаживали подъ Городенскимъ городищемъ, ниже Курска верстъ съ 40

Book of the Great Map (1627), ed. Yazykov (1838)

About Belgorod (Akkerman) Tatars under Bakai Murza

Keep in mind

'Polskie goroda' here means the new towns of the 'Pole' (steppe frontier), not Polish towns.

Bashkirs who live on honey, game and fish

Editorial contextAlong the Belaya and Ufa rivers up to the Ural mountains, the book says, 'all live Bashkirs', and they feed on honey (from forest beekeeping), game and fish, and have no ploughland. It is a one-line ethnographic note from the frontier, about a Turkic people that western maps often put under 'Tartary'.

And from the mouth of the river Belaia Voloshka, upstream and along the river Ufa, on both sides as far as the Aral'tova mountain and beyond, all live Bashkirs, and their food is honey, game and fish, and they have no ploughland.

Working translation

Original wording

А отъ устья рѣки Бѣлыя-Воложки, съ верхъ и по рѣкѣ по Уфѣ, по обѣимъ сторонамъ и до Аральтовы горы и далѣе, все живутъ Башкиры, а кормля ихъ медъ, звѣрь, рыба, а пашни не имѣютъ.

Book of the Great Map (1627), ed. Yazykov (1838)

About Bashkirs

A note on this quote

The scan is too rough to double-check this quote by machine. Compare it with the page.

The namePontic-Caspian steppe and Central AsiaAbout 1600 (the old map), described in 1627

Kazakh horde, Great and Lesser Nogais: the peoples on the old map

Editorial contextThe preface lists what the old Great Map showed in the south and east: the 'nomad Kazakh horde', the camps of the Great Nogais, the towns of Bukhara and Urgench, the Volga to Astrakhan and the Don to Azov, and the fields between Azov and Astrakhan 'where the Lesser Nogais roam'. The steppe is named by its nomad peoples, not by a single 'Tartary'.

and the nomad Kazakh horde, and the nomad camps of the Great Nogais, and the Bukharan and Urgench towns, and the river Volga to Astrakhan, and the river Don to Azov, and between Azov and Astrakhan to the Khvalyn [Caspian] and to the Azov and Black Seas, the fields and rivers where the Lesser Nogais roam.

Working translation

Original wording

и кочевую Казацкую орду, и большихъ Нагаевъ кочевье, и Бухарскіе и Юргенскіе города, и рѣку Волгу до Астарахани, и рѣку Донъ до Азова, и межъ Азова и Астарахани до Хвалинскаго, и до Азовскаго, и до Чернаго моря, поля и рѣки, что кочують малые Нагаи.

Razriad clerks, preface to the Book of the Great Map (1627), ed. Yazykov (1838)

About Kazakhs ('Kazatskaia orda'), Great Nogai, Lesser Nogai; Bukhara and Urgench

A note on this quote

The scan is too rough to double-check this quote by machine. Compare it with the page.

Strange talesManych steppeAbout 1600 to 1627

Stone men by the salt spring

Editorial contextBy a stream in the Manych steppe, opposite the salt that the people of Azov gathered, the book marks 'stone men, idols'. These are the carved stone statues ('kamennye baby') that stood on steppe kurgans, set up by earlier nomads such as the Polovtsy. The clerks give no builder, only the landmark.

And along the right side of that stream are stone people, idols, opposite the salt that the Azov people take.

Working translation

Original wording

А по правой сторонѣ по тому истоку люди каменные болваны, противъ той соли, что емлютъ Азовцы.

Book of the Great Map (1627), ed. Yazykov (1838)

About Unnamed makers of steppe stone statues

Keep in mind

The identification with kurgan stelae is the usual scholarly reading; the book does not describe them.

Strange talesUpper Don RiverAbout 1600 (first printed 1773)

A giant's grave and a stone table on the Don

Editorial contextOn the upper Don the book lists a 'Volotova mogila', a giant's grave (volot is the old Russian word for a giant), at the mouth of the Mecha, and further down the 'Don beseda' (Don meeting-place), 'a stone table and stone vessels'. Nearby were the Tatar fords into Rus. These folk names for kurgans and rocks sit side by side with military route data.

and at the mouth of the river Mecha, on the upper side, is the Giant's Grave. … And below the mouth of the Sosna, on the Don, is the Don Meeting-place, a stone table and stone vessels.

Working translation

Original wording

а устьѣ рѣки Мечи съ вышія страны Волотова могила. … А ниже устья Сосны, на Дону, Донская бесѣда, каменной столъ и каменныя суды.

Book of the Great Map, first edition 'Drevniaia rossiiskaia idrografiia' (1773)

About Unnamed (folk landmarks on the Tatar frontier)

Keep in mind

The 1838 edition reads 'Bolotova' (marsh) where the 1773 edition reads 'Volotova' (giant's).

The fine print

How we know

official or contemporary record An official document or a record made at the time.

official record: verbal description of the lost Bolshoi Chertezh (c. 1600) and its 1627 renewal, compiled from service route-books (stateinye and dorozhniki); compilation not travel

Research notes
  • Text describes a map that is lost; several manuscript redactions; OCR of the imprint reads 1858 while catalogue and bibliographies give 1838 (both recorded). 1950 Serbina edition not located on IA (see candidate).
  • | Also recorded independently by the maps noneuropean pass: Item page retrieved (HTTP 200) with full bibliographic description; viewer not tested from this environment (prlib.ru/item/417685).
  • Further copies: rusneb (not reachable from here) rusneb.ru/catalog/000199_000009_003542890/

Why it matters

The most detailed Russian geographical text of the early 17th century, listing rivers, towns and nomad camps from the Dnieper to the Ob, with the Bukhara and Siberian roads; central for what Muscovy actually knew of the steppe and Tartary before Witsen and Remezov.

Places named

Muscovy; Volga; Don; Crimea; Caucasus; Caspian; Urals; Ob (Siberia sketch); Bukhara road

Peoples named

Turkic and Central Asian peoples and states
Western Mongols (Oirat, Dzungar, Kalmyk)
Peoples of the Caucasus
Rus, Muscovy and the Russian Empire

Crimean Tatars; Nogai; Bashkirs; Kalmyks; Cherkess; Kumyks; Siberian Tatars; Muscovy

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