Ili: the old Kalmyk capital becomes a Chinese garrison
Editorial contextIn the route copied from a Kashgar man's journal, the note on Ili says the old city by the river, once the Kalmaks' capital, is deserted, and that the name now covers two towns: Gulja, mostly Muslim, and Kura, the Chinese garrison and seat of the governor-general. It also mentions the grave of Tughluk Timur, the first Chaghatai khan to become Muslim, and a burning stone (coal) found nearby.
Ila is properly the name of the river on the borders of which stood the city, thence so called, and which is now deserted. There is the grave of Tughluk Timor, the first of the Chaghatai Sultans who adopted Mohammedanism.
About Kalmaks (Oirats) and the Qing army
Keep in mind
Not seen by Izzet Ullah; copied from another traveller's journal and oral notes.
Timur's tomb, stripped of its gold
Editorial contextIzzet Ullah visited the Gur-i Amir, the tomb of Timur (Tamerlane), whose court history calls his army 'the Tartars'. He saw the great dome, the famous dark green stone slab and the inscribed plate, and was told the gilding had been stripped off by the Bukharan ruler Shah Murad. The poor attendants asked him whether any descendants of Timur still lived in India who might help them.
the seat of the sepulchre of Amir Timur ; a lofty building with an immense cupola : within it is a remarkable slab of a brilliant green stone, and above it is a plate with an inscription, with the name of Timur engraved on it. Formerly the dome was gilt, but Shah Murad Be stripped off the gilding, and took it away ;
About Uzbeks of Bukhara; tomb of Timur
Keep in mind
The story of the stripped gilding is what he was told.
Ruined buildings of the Kirghiz, 'a Mongol tribe speaking a Turkish dialect'
Editorial contextOn the road from Ladakh to Yarkand, Izzet Ullah passed a place called Kirghiz Jangal (Kirghiz thicket) with the ruins of Kirghiz buildings. He explains that the Kirghiz had lived there until they were expelled for plundering caravans, before China took the region. Elsewhere on his route the Kirghiz live in felt tents, so the note that these nomads also left buildings behind is worth noticing.
On the road half way is a place called Kirghiz thicket, where are the remains of some of their ruined edifices, that tribe having been resident here before the country was subjected to China: being in the habit of plundering the Kafilas they were expelled. The Kirghizes are a Mongol tribe, speaking a Turkish dialect.
About Kirghiz
Keep in mind
He saw the ruins; who built them and why they left is local report.
Felt tents pitched beside a domed tomb
Editorial contextCrossing the mountains west of Kashgar in deep winter, Izzet Ullah notes Kirghiz felt tents lining the road (p. 321). At the stage called Mizar Gumbaz he found a domed building with Kirghiz tombs and the living Kirghiz camped in tents beside it: permanent structures for the dead, portable ones for the living.
Mizar Gumbuz, … west by north, eight hours. A building with a cupola and Kirghiz tombs; their tents were also pitched near the building; supplies plentiful;
About Kirghiz
Turks and Kipchaks versus the Kirghiz
Editorial contextNear Andijan, Izzet Ullah passes the spring and summer pastures of the Turks and Kipchaks, some 10,000 to 12,000 families, whom he admires as prosperous, well dressed and soldierly. He is scornful of the poorer Kirghiz. A page earlier he notes 'many Tartar stations' where herds of horses graze, and just after this he meets Kalmaks who 'are Musalmans', a surprise since most Kalmyks were Buddhist.
the adjacent country is divided into the pasture grounds of the Turks and Kapchaks… These two tribes amount here to 10,000 or 12,000 families: they are a strong good-looking people, apparently in a prosperous condition, well dressed, and of military bearing, and present a striking contrast to the Kirghizes, who are a mean-looking race, ill-fed, housed, and clothed,
About Turks, Kapchaks (Kipchaks), Kirghiz and Muslim Kalmaks
Keep in mind
His judgement of the Kirghiz is a townsman's prejudice.
Kirghiz snow-treaders keep the pass open
Editorial contextIn winter the snow in the passes west of Kashgar lay a man's height deep or more. Izzet Ullah describes Kirghiz posted along the road whose job was to trample the snow hard so caravans could cross. Even so, several horses died, including his own.
The Kirghizes tread the snow down so as to make it hard, and then the caravans pass; a certain number of Kirghizes are appointed to this duty,
About Kirghiz
The rain stone of Yarkand
Editorial contextAmong the curiosities of Yarkand, Izzet Ullah lists the 'Yedeh', a stone taken from the head of a cow or horse that can bring rain or snow. He admits he never saw it work, but says many people swore to it. Rain-stone magic (yada) was an old practice of Turkic and Mongol peoples. His closing line is a neat mix of belief and doubt, and Wilson's footnote praises his honesty.
The individuals who employ the stone are numerous; they are called Yedejis. The stone is to be smeared with the blood of some animal, and then thrown into water: a charm is read at the same time, upon which a strong wind springs up, and then rain and snow ensue… The truth of the story is known to God alone.
About Turkic Muslims of Yarkand (the 'Yedejis', rain-makers)
Keep in mind
Hearsay; the traveller says he had 'no opportunity of observing the fact'.