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John Bell's travels from St Petersburg across Asia

A Scottish doctor's eyewitness account of Russian embassies to Persia, Peking, Derbent and Constantinople, 1715 to 1738.

Full title Travels from St. Petersburg in Russia to Diverse Parts of Asia

John Bell

Read the 18 passagesOpen the original bookRide the route

John Bell (1691-1780), a Scottish physician in Russian service, travelled with Peter the Great's embassy to Isfahan (1715 to 1718), with the Izmailov embassy across Siberia and Mongolia to the Kangxi emperor at Peking (1719 to 1722), with Peter's Persian campaign to Derbent (1722), and to Constantinople (1737 to 1738). He published his journals in 1763. He describes Kalmyk and Tatar life on the Volga, Siberian Tatar villages and shamans, the Mongols, and the Manchu court at Peking. Volume 2 also prints Lorenz Lange's journal of his stay in Peking, with footnotes. This corpus copy is the first edition (Glasgow, 1763), two volumes.

How they knew
Eyewitness
Who “Tartar” means here
Bell calls many peoples Tartars: the Muslim Tatars of Kazan, Kasimov, Astrakhan and Tobolsk, the Volga Kalmyks, the Siberian 'Tartar tribes' of the Irtysh and Baraba, the Mongols, and the Manchus ('Mantzur Tartars') who ruled China. He treats Kalmyks and Mongols as one people.
Why read it
A careful, often sceptical eyewitness who slept in Tatar log huts, watched Kalmyk tents go up, went looking for the vegetable lamb himself, and lodged in the 'Tartar' city of Peking.
Watch out
Some material, such as the Seven Palaces and the grave digging, comes from informants, and his Chinese history was told to him in Peking. Footnotes in volume 2 belong to Lange's journal, not to Bell. The OCR prints the long s as f.

What it says: 18 passages

CitiesKazan1715 to 1716

Kazan, old capital of a Tartar kingdom

Editorial contextBell wintered at Kazan. He describes the Russian brick citadel with its cathedral and palaces, and then the Muslim Tatars who live in a street or two of the suburbs as 'posterity of the ancient natives', free to practise their religion and some of them rich from trade with Turkey and Persia. He recalls that the city was the capital of a Tartar kingdom until Ivan the Terrible took it in 1552.

The suburbs are inhabited chiefly by mechanics, except a street or two possessed by Mahometan Tartars, the posterity of the ancient natives. … Cazan was anciently the capital of a part of Tartary, and the seat of government, where the royal family resided. It was taken from the Tartars by Czar Ivan Vasiloviz, in the year fifteen hundred and fifty two,

John Bell (Travels, 1763)

About Kazan Tatars

Tobolsk: Russian brick above, Tartar streets below

Editorial contextBell notes that the Tartar princes of Siberia once lived about thirty versts from Tobolsk at a place now 'neglected and ruinous' (he does not name it; it is probably the old khanate capital Isker, or Kashlyk). The Russian town on the hill has a brick wall, the governor's palace and brick churches, while the Tatars, descendants of the old inhabitants, live in several 'Tartar-streets' in the lower suburb along the river, with freedom of religion and trade.

Formerly the Tartar princes had their abode at a place about thirty verst south from Tobolsky, which is now neglected and ruinous. … Under the hill in the suburbs, along the banks of the river, are several large streets, called the Tartar-streets, occupied by the remains of the ancient inhabitants of these parts.

John Bell (Travels, 1763)

About Siberian Tatars

Lodging in the 'Tartar's town' of Peking

Editorial contextEntering Peking with the Russian embassy, Bell's party rides for two hours through crowded streets to lodgings in the part of the city called the 'Tartar's town', near its centre. This is the inner walled city where the Manchu garrison families lived, so called because Europeans called the Manchu rulers of China 'Tartars'.

After a march of two hours from the gate where we entered, we, at last, came to our lodgings, in that part of the city called the Tartar's town; which is near the center of Pekin,

John Bell (Travels, 1763)

About Manchus ('Tartars' of the ruling dynasty)

Kalmyk felt tents at a Volga horse fair

Editorial contextCrossing the Volga at Saratov to a great horse market held by the Kalmyks, Bell describes their tents step by step: leaning poles fixed into a smoke-hole ring, a frame of light rods tied with thongs, and a covering of felt. On the next page he adds that the felt is coarse wool and hair, that the tents fold up quickly, and that one camel can carry five or six of them.

These tents are of a conical figure; there are several long poles erected, inclining to one another, which are fixed at the top into something like a hoop, that forms the circumference of an aperture for letting out the smoak, or admitting the light; across the poles are laid some small rods… this frame is covered with pieces of felt,

John Bell (Travels, 1763)

About Kalmyk Tartars (Torghut Kalmyks of the Volga)

Show 14 more passages

Log huts with windows made of ice

Editorial contextTravelling up the Irtysh in midwinter, Bell's party passes many Tatar villages and sleeps in their huts. He describes one- or two-room log houses chinked with moss, a broad bench for sitting and sleeping, and, in place of glass, a pane of ice cut to fit the window. The next page adds that these Tatars are very clean and use open hearths rather than Russian stoves.

These houses consist generally of one or two rooms, according to the ability of the landlord. … The walls are built of wood and moss, consisting of large beams, laid one above another, with a layer of moss between every two beams. All the roofs are raised. A square-hole is cut out for a window, and to supply the want of glass, a piece of ice

John Bell (Travels, 1763)

About Siberian Tatars

The 'Seven Palaces' in the steppe

Editorial contextBell did not visit this building on the upper Irtysh, but reports what he was told: a regular brick or stone edifice of seven rooms under one roof, standing alone in the steppe. Local Tartars credited it to Tamerlane or to Genghis Khan. Its rooms were full of scrolls in the writing of the 'Tongusts, or Kalmucks' (probably meaning Tanguts, that is Tibetans, or Kalmyks); Bell bought a bundle from a soldier in Tobolsk and gave some to Sir Hans Sloane. The Tibetan or Kalmyk writing suggests a Kalmyk (Oirat) Buddhist building rather than a work of Tamerlane, and the ruin, 'Sem Palaty', later gave the city of Semipalatinsk (Semey) its name.

It is very surprising to find such a regular edifice in the middle of a desert. Some of the Tartars say it was built by Tamerlane, called by the Tartars Temyr-Ack-Sack or Lame-Temyr; others by Gingeez-Chan. The building, according to the best information I could obtain, is of brick or stone, well finished, and continues still entire. It consists of seven apartments under one roof,

John Bell (Travels, 1763)

About Kalmyks; local Tartar informants

Keep in mind

Hearsay: Bell never saw the building, and the Tamerlane and Genghis Khan attributions are local legend.

Treasure-hunters in the grave mounds

Editorial contextSouth of Tomsk lie many burial mounds of earth and stones. Bell was told that Russians went out every summer to dig them for gold, silver and weapons, and he saw some of the finds himself, including a brass horseman and gold deer figures. From the horse bones and weapons he concludes that great men were buried with their horse and servant, a custom he says the Kalmyks still keep; the Kalmyks, who hate disturbing the dead, sometimes robbed the grave-robbers. His Baraba Tartar informants credited the battles to Tamerlane.

Many persons go from Tomsky, and other parts, every summer, to these graves; which they dig up, and find, among the ashes of the dead, considerable quantities of gold, silver, brass… Whence it appears, that when any general or person of distinction, was interred, all his arms, his favourite horse and servant, were buried with him in the same grave;

John Bell (Travels, 1763)

About ancient steppe peoples; Kalmyks and other Tartars

Keep in mind

The digging is reported by informants; Bell saw only objects brought back. The link to Tamerlane is a local tradition.

A land without a single house

Editorial contextWaiting at Selenginsk on the Mongolian border, Bell sums up Mongol life: in all of Mongolia there is not one house, and even the prince and the high lama live in tents that move with the herds. He adds that they do not plough at all, and admits that he finds this simple life pleasant in so dry a climate. The prince's camp at Urga, he explains a few pages later, is a moving city of several thousand tents.

…of Mongalia, there is not so much as a single house to be seen. All the people, even the prince and high priest, live constantly in tents; and remove, with their cattle, from place to place, as conveniency requires. These people do not trouble themselves with ploughing, or digging the ground in any fashion;

John Bell (Travels, 1763)

About Mongols (Khalkha), whom Bell calls 'hardy Tartars'

Wishing an enemy a house and a job

Editorial contextBell describes the Volga Kalmyks as herders who despise settled work. They have no craftsmen except armourers, and their worst curse is that a man should live in one place and labour like a Russian. On the same page he praises their language for lacking oaths and quotes their proverb 'Though a knife be sharp it cannot cut its own handle'.

They have no mechanics, except those who make arms. They avoid all labour as the greatest slavery; their only employment is tending their flocks, managing horses, and hunting. If they are angry with a person, they wish he may live in one place, and work like a Russian.

John Bell (Travels, 1763)

About Kalmyk Tartars

Horse meat is cooked, not eaten raw

Editorial contextBell corrects a common European belief that Tartars eat raw meat. On campaign the Kalmyks live on balls of dried curd dissolved in water, and when that fails they kill spare horses and roast the meat on broken arrows. Their smoked or sun-dried horse meat, he says, cannot fairly be called raw, and he tasted it himself.

They broil or roast the flesh before the fire, on pieces of broken arrows, and never eat it raw, as is commonly believed, unless compelled by necessity. They have indeed large thick pieces of horse-flesh, smoked or dried in the sun, which they eat; but this cannot properly be called raw.

John Bell (Travels, 1763)

About Kalmyk Tartars

A woman shaman of the Baraba steppe

Editorial contextThe ambassador made a point of testing the shamans he met. In the Baraba the party visited a famous female shaman who ignored them until she had smoked, drunk brandy and received presents. She then brought out her spirit image and a ringed drum and sang with her neighbours. Bell judged her answers as ambiguous as any oracle's, and noted she was young and very handsome.

First, she brought the shaytan; which is nothing but a piece of wood, wherein is cut something resembling a human head, adorned with many silk and woolen rags, of various colours; then, a small drum, about a foot diameter, to which were fixed many brass and iron rings, and hung round also with rags.

John Bell (Travels, 1763)

About Barabintsy, 'a mixture of different Tartar tribes'

Keep in mind

Bell's tone is openly dismissive; he treats all shamans as frauds.

'Fish-skin coats' and 'louse-eaters'

Editorial contextWalking in Peking, Bell records the insults exchanged between Chinese and Manchus. The Chinese call a Tartar 'fish-skin coat' because the Manchus of the Amur live by fishing and wear fish-skin coats in summer. It is a small but telling glimpse of how the ruling 'Tartars' of China were still seen as northern forest people.

When a Chinese and Tartar are angry at one another, the Tartar, in reproach, calls the Chinese louse-eater; and the latter, in return, calls the other fish-skin coat; because the Mantzur Tartars, who live near the river Amoor, subsist by fishing, and, in summer, wear coats made of the skins of fishes.

John Bell (Travels, 1763)

About Manchus ('Mantzur Tartars')

The Kalmyk khan dines with Peter the Great

Editorial contextOn the way to Derbent, Peter the Great met Ayuka, khan of the Volga Kalmyks, on a galley on the river. Bell watched the khan arrive on horseback with his sons and fifty horsemen, and the queen arrive in a covered wagon with her daughter. He describes Ayuka as a wise old man, the princess as a Kalmyk beauty in Persian brocade, and notes that the khan promised Peter five thousand horsemen on the spot.

Soon after the Ayuka-Chan was got on board the galley, the Queen arrived on the shore, in a covered wheel-machine, attended by one of the princesses her daughter, and two ladies, who were also escorted by a troop of horsemen. … The Ayuka-Chan is an old man, about seventy years of age, yet is hearty and chearful.

John Bell (Travels, 1763)

About Kalmyks under Ayuka Khan

The nameChina1721 (retelling events of the 1200s and 1640s)

Two different 'Tartar' conquests of China

Editorial contextIn Peking Bell retells the history as it was told to him: about five hundred years earlier 'western Tartars' (the Mongols) broke through the Great Wall and ruled China until driven out; then in the 1640s the Manchus conquered the whole empire. The passage shows that 'Tartar' covered both peoples, centuries apart.

However, about five hundred years ago, the western Tartars found means to get through the wall, and, with a powerful army of horse, entered the country, carrying terror along with them wherever they went. … From this time they enjoyed long peace, till the fatal year one thousand six hundred and forty, when the Mantzur Tartars conquered the whole empire of China; which conquest they retain to this day;

John Bell (Travels, 1763)

About Mongols ('western Tartars') and Manchus ('Mantzur Tartars')

Keep in mind

Bell's dates are approximate: the Manchu conquest of Beijing was in 1644.

Three khans, one people

Editorial contextBell names the three great 'Tartar princes' between the Volga and China: Ayuka Khan of the Volga Kalmyks, the Kontaysha of the Dzungars and the Tushetu Khan of the Khalkha Mongols. He treats all their subjects as one Kalmyk nation with the same looks, religion and language, and marvels at how far a traveller could go with that one language.

From the river Volga, to the wall of China, there are three great Tartar princes; the Ayuka-Chan, the Kontaysha, and the Tush-du-Chan. These three mighty nations have almost the same features, religion, and language; and live in the same manner. … whose subjects go by the general name of Kalmuks.

John Bell (Travels, 1763)

About Kalmyks and Mongols

Hunting the vegetable lamb

Editorial contextGerman authors claimed that a 'Tartarian lamb' (barometz) grew as a plant near Astrakhan, half animal and half vegetable, eating the grass around it. Bell walked many miles with local Tartars to find it and found only a dry prickly bush. The Tartars themselves, he reports, laughed at the story. A rare case of a traveller testing a legend on the spot.

In search of this wonderful plant I walked many a mile, accompanied by Tartars who inhabit these deserts; but all I could find out were some dry bushes, scattered here and there, … After further enquiry of the more sensible and experienced among the Tartars, I found they laughed at it as a ridiculous fable.

John Bell (Travels, 1763)

About Tartars of the Astrakhan steppe

The mammoth that hides under the water

Editorial contextBell saw many 'mammon's horns' (mammoth tusks) in Siberian towns and brought one home to Hans Sloane. He thought they were elephant teeth and could not explain how they got so far north. His Tartar informants, however, said the mammoth was a living beast the size of an elephant that appears at dawn by lakes and dives into the water when seen, and tunnels under marshes with its horns.

The Tartars tell many fables of its having been seen alive. But to me it appears that this horn is the tooth of a large elephant. … I have been told by Tartars … that they have seen this creature, called mammon, at the dawn of day, near lakes and rivers; but, that on discovering them, the mammon immediately tumbles into the water,

John Bell (Travels, 1763)

About Tartars of the Baraba; Siberian peoples

A high lama who ages with the moon

Editorial contextBell reports what Mongols told him about their chief lama, the Kutuchtu at Urga. On the previous page he describes how a boy successor is 'found' by making him pick out his predecessor's belongings. Here he adds the popular belief that the Kutuchtu had lived fourteen generations and grew young and old again with each month.

The Mongalls relate, that their Kutuchtu has now lived fourteen generations, and renews his age every moon; for, at the new moon, he appears like a youth; when she is full, like a full-grown man; but, when near the change, he is an old man with grey hairs.

John Bell (Travels, 1763)

About Mongols (Khalkha)

Keep in mind

Popular belief reported second hand; Bell himself thinks it ridiculous.

The fine print

How we know

firsthand The author saw the places or people described.

Traveler / embassy participant

Research notes
  • Includes information obtained from others; separate each journey when reading.

Why it matters

Routes, settlements, courts and customs across regions mapped as Tartary.

Places named

Siberia; Mongolia; China; Caspian

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