Place · settlement

Urga (Ulaanbaatar)

What the sources say here: 8 passages

Urga in 1821: a monastery town of wooden temples and giant yurts

Editorial contextThe ancestor of Ulaanbaatar, as Bichurin saw it: a great monastery (Khüree) built on Tibetan lines, about 12 li round, with many irregular streets. At the centre was the court of the Jebtsundamba Khutukhtu. The temples were of wood, the main one with a gilded dome; the other buildings were huge yurts covered with canvas. The lamas lived in felt tents or mud-plaster huts. A Chinese trading town (Maimaicheng) stood nearby.

Khüree, a vast monastery built according to Tibetan rules. … Its circuit is about 12 li, and it consists of many irregular streets. In the centre stands a large courtyard in which the Jebtsundamba Khutukhtu resides. Here the temples are built of wood, and the main one has a gilded dome. The other buildings consist of huge yurts covered with canvas.

Working translation

Original wording

Курень, обширный монастырь, построенный по Тибетскимъ правиламъ. … Въ окружности содержитъ около 12 ли, и состоитъ изъ многихъ неправильныхъ улицъ. Въ средоточіи стоитъ обширный дворъ, въ которомъ Чжебцзунь-дамба-хутухта имѣетъ пребываніе. Здѣсь храмы построены изъ дерева и главный съ позолоченымъ куполомъ. Прочія строенія состоятъ изъ огромныхъ юртъ, обтянутыхъ парусиною.

Iakinf (N. Ya. Bichurin), 1828

About Khalkha Mongols and Buddhist lamas

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Continue in this sourceFather Iakinf Bichurin's Notes on Mongolia1808 to 1821 · 6 passages

A Mongol official's belief about Genghis Khan's houses

Editorial contextA Mongol officer (the zakiroktchi) told the Russians he was sure several European kings descended from Genghis Khan, since Genghis had reigned in Russia, and that ruins of Genghis Khan's houses still stood in Mongolia and probably in Russia too. Timkovsky dismisses the royal descent as absurd but records the belief. It is an early example of a local legend crediting ruins to Genghis Khan.

The zakiroktchi was persuaded that several sovereigns of Europe must be descendants of Gingis Khan, … because he had reigned in Russia, and other foreign countries; a conjecture of which it seems unnecessary to shew the absurdity. He informed us that there still existed in Mongolia ruins of houses that belonged to Gingis Khan, and he supposed there must be some in Russia.

George Timkowski (English translation, 1827)

About Khalkha Mongols

Keep in mind

Hearsay from a Mongol official; Timkovsky himself rejects part of it.

Continue in this sourceA Russian mission crosses Mongolia to Peking, 1820 to 18211820 to 1821 · 14 passages

Urga, the moving camp that became a walled town

Editorial contextIn a footnote Pallas explains that on the Tola River stands the now fixed court of the Khutukhtu (the Mongol high lama) and the Mongol princes: a place enclosed by wooden walls with several temples and dwellings. It used to be a moving camp called Urga, he says, but is now called Küree, a word meaning a walled place, and Chinese governors live there to watch over the Mongol princes. This is the origin of today's Ulaanbaatar.

On it now stands the permanent court of the Khutukhtu and the Mongol chiefs, laid out as a fixed place surrounded by wooden walls, with various temples and dwellings. This court, which formerly, when it was still a moving camp, was called Urga or Gergö, is therefore now called Kurö

Working translation

Original wording

An demselben ist gegenwärtig das unveränderliche Hoflager des Kutuchta und der mongolischen Häupter, als ein fester, mit hölzernen Wänden umgebner Platz, mit verschiedenen Tempeln und Wohnungen angelegt. Man nennt daher dieses Hoflager, welches sonst, da es noch ein wandelbares Lager vorstellte, Urga oder Gergö hieß, nunmehr Kurö

P. S. Pallas (editor's footnote, 1781)

About Khalkha Mongols and their Jebtsundamba Khutukhtu

Continue in this sourceLorenz Lange's caravan journals from Kiakhta to Peking1727 to 1736 · 3 passages

Urga, a capital made of tents

Editorial contextUrga (modern Ulaanbaatar), the seat of the Khalkha living Buddha and of the Qing governors, was mostly a town of felt tents. Timkovsky says every dwelling, including the Russian house, stood inside a palisade, with tents in the courtyards and only a small Chinese-style house of two rooms. Elsewhere he describes its temples and a separate Chinese trading quarter, the maimatchin.

Ourga consists chiefly of kibitkas: the evening being foggy we did not see it till we were within three wersts of it. … Our abode, like all the habitations in Ourga, was surrounded with palisades; in the first court there was a tent for the guard; in the second four very spacious tents had been erected for us, behind which was a small Chinese house

George Timkowski (English translation, 1827)

About Khalkha Mongols; Manchu and Chinese officials

Continue in this sourceA Russian mission crosses Mongolia to Peking, 1820 to 18211820 to 1821 · 14 passages
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A Buddhist monument of stone, clay and grey brick

Editorial contextOn a walk near Urga the Russians climbed to a soubourgan (suburgan, a Buddhist stupa) built by a Mongol prince. Timkovsky notes how it was made: a square base of unhewn stone bound with clay and straw, grey brick walls, and a core of sand and stones. It shows Mongol nobles commissioning permanent religious buildings even while living in tents.

we ascended an eminence, on which stands a soubourgan, or sacred pyramid, of the disciples of Boudha, erected by a Mongol prince. The pedestal, which is of a square form, is made of unhewn stone, cemented with a composition made of clay and straw: the walls are made of gray bricks, and the interior filled with sand and stones.

George Timkowski (English translation, 1827)

About Khalkha Mongols

Continue in this sourceA Russian mission crosses Mongolia to Peking, 1820 to 18211820 to 1821 · 14 passages

A high lama who ages with the moon

Editorial contextBell reports what Mongols told him about their chief lama, the Kutuchtu at Urga. On the previous page he describes how a boy successor is 'found' by making him pick out his predecessor's belongings. Here he adds the popular belief that the Kutuchtu had lived fourteen generations and grew young and old again with each month.

The Mongalls relate, that their Kutuchtu has now lived fourteen generations, and renews his age every moon; for, at the new moon, he appears like a youth; when she is full, like a full-grown man; but, when near the change, he is an old man with grey hairs.

John Bell (Travels, 1763)

About Mongols (Khalkha)

Keep in mind

Popular belief reported second hand; Bell himself thinks it ridiculous.

Continue in this sourceJohn Bell's travels from St Petersburg across Asia1715 to 1738 · 18 passages

Milk, dried cheese and milk brandy

Editorial contextA tall lama told the travellers about a cattle plague that had left the steppe people short of food. Timkovsky records their diet: meat when herds were large, otherwise milk, dried cheese (kourout) and millet, with a milk brandy drunk in summer. On the facing page he adds that they made coarse felt from sheep's wool, twisted horsehair into ropes, and had 'neither handicrafts nor manufactures'.

When they possess many cows and sheep, they subsist upon their flesh, otherwise they content themselves with milk and dried cheese (bissalak and kourout), they likewise make use of a kind of millet (shara bonda). To exhilarate their spirits they drink, though only in summer, a kind of brandy, which they extract from milk.

George Timkowski (English translation, 1827)

About Khalkha Mongols

Continue in this sourceA Russian mission crosses Mongolia to Peking, 1820 to 18211820 to 1821 · 14 passages

The Great Kouren: a monastery city of 30,000 lamas

Editorial contextHuc describes the Great Kouren (Urga, today's Ulaanbaatar) on the Tula river: temples with gilded roofs, 30,000 lamas, and a plain always covered with pilgrims' tents from every people of the Qing north, including 'Fish-skin Tartars' from the Amur and Torghuts. The next page adds a fortified Chinese trading post of wooden and mud huts, where everything was priced in bricks of tea.

Thirty thousand Lamas dwell in the Lamasery itself, or in smaller Lamaseries erected about it. The plain adjoining it is always covered with the tents of the pilgrims who resort hither from all parts to worship Buddha. Here you find the U-Pi-Ta-Dze, or "Fish-skin Tartars," encamped beside the Torgot Tartars

Évariste Huc (translated by William Hazlitt, 1852)

About Khalkha Mongols and pilgrims of many peoples

Continue in this sourceTwo French priests cross Mongolia on the way to Tibet, 1844 to 18461844 to 1846 · 18 passages

2 sources and maps name this place

  1. 1716–1722a range
    Journals of the 1715-1716 journey to Beijing
    WLorenz Lange, Russian agent in BeijingfirsthandW172
  2. 1826–1828a range
    Notes on Mongolia
    WHyacinthmixedW177