Written source · English

Maria Guthrie's letters from a tour of the Crimea

Letters of a Scottish woman living in Russia, written on a journey through the newly Russian Crimea and Nogai steppe in 1795 to 1796.

Full title A Tour, Performed in the Years 1795–6, through the Taurida, or Crimea

Maria Guthrie; Matthew Guthrie, editor

Read the 15 passagesOpen the original book

Maria Guthrie, former acting directress of the imperial school for noble girls in St Petersburg, toured southern Russia and the Crimea in 1795 to 1796 for her health, writing letters in French to her husband, the physician and antiquary Matthew Guthrie. After her death he translated them into English, added ancient history, footnotes, a supplement and appendices on antiquities, and published the book in London in 1802, the edition in this corpus. She describes Bakhchysarai, Tatar houses, food, marriage, burial, religion and law, Nogai tents and steppe monuments; he adds learned and sometimes far-fetched theories.

How they knew
Part eyewitness
Who “Tartar” means here
Mainly the Crimean Tatars ('Crim Tartars') and the Nogai Tatars of the steppe north of Perekop, a dozen years after Russian annexation. In Matthew Guthrie's appendices 'Tartars' is a generic name for all steppe nomads, used interchangeably with 'Scythians'.
Why read it
A rare woman's eyewitness view of Crimean Tatar homes, food and customs just after annexation, plus early descriptions of kurgans, steppe stone statues and the ruined Golden Horde town of Madzhary.
Watch out
The English is Matthew's translation, and many footnotes, the supplement and the appendices are his own antiquarian theories (for example that Russians descend from Cumans or Hyperboreans). Keep Maria's observations apart from his speculation; she also repeats merchants' hearsay.

What it says: 15 passages

CitiesBakhchysarai1795 to 1796

Bakhchysarai: a city shaped like a funnel

Editorial contextMaria Guthrie calls the former khans' capital a 'romantic city' hidden in a valley: Tatar houses stacked in rings up the slopes around the palace, like an amphitheatre, beneath overhanging rocks carved by wind and water into shapes like towers and obelisks. On the previous page she complains that the streets are dirty, badly paved and too narrow for anything but a horseman or a small cart.

Only figure to yourself, my good friend, in a deep valley, bounded by a huge chain of pendant rocks, an assemblage of Tartar houses of uncouth forms, stuck as it were against the sides of the mountains, and placed in circles one above another, round the palace of their Chan (situated at the bottom of the valley), so as to represent a large amphitheatre, or rather funnel

Maria Guthrie (letter, translated by Matthew Guthrie, 1802)

About Crimean Tatars

A Nogai prince in a little clay town

Editorial contextAn Italian merchant told her he had crossed the Nogai steppe and was welcomed by the Nogai chief Beyazet Beg, who lived in a small clay-built town and ate mostly milk, koumis and mutton. Trying to please a European, the prince served an 'Italian' feast so strange that the guest slipped out to be sick, and promised a French one next day.

He said, he found their chief named Beyazet Beg, i. e. Prince Bajazet, dwelling in a little town built with clay, on the lake and rivulet Bolotchik… This Tartar prince, who lives like his Scythian ancestors… principally on milk and its preparation koumis (which constitutes the food, wine, and brandy of the Tartars), with occasionally the flesh of his flocks

Maria Guthrie (letter, translated by Matthew Guthrie, 1802), reporting an Italian merchant of Kherson

About Nogai Tatars

Keep in mind

Second-hand story from a merchant.

Tombs of the khans and a monument to a Christian wife

Editorial contextIn the palace courtyard she sees two domed rotundas holding the remains of generations of khans, and a small mausoleum said to honour a khan's beloved Christian wife, probably a captive. Inside, a marble vestibule has three fountains, and vine-and-rose bowers fill a small garden.

Near the handsome mosque in the court of Batcheferai palace, mentioned in my last, we perceived a couple of pretty rotundos, in which repose the ashes of a long line of Chans; but what most attracted our eyes… was a pretty little mausoleum, dedicated “To Conjugal Fidelity and Attachment,” erected by one of the Crimean Chans on losing a beloved christian wife, probably a fair captive

Maria Guthrie (letter, translated by Matthew Guthrie, 1802)

About Crimean Tatars (Giray khans)

Keep in mind

The story of the Christian wife is what she was told; 'probably a fair captive' is her guess.

BuildingsCrimea1795 to 1796

Stone houses that turn their backs to the street

Editorial contextIn her general letter on the 'Crim Tartars' she says their houses are single-storey stone buildings bonded with limy clay and roofed with tiles. They have no street windows: the fronts face an inner courtyard so that the women can take the air unseen behind muslin screens.

The Tartar houses are of one story, constructed of stone, cemented together by a calcareous clay, and covered with tiles. Toward the street they have no windows; polygamy, and its natural consequence, jealousy, having turned the facade of Tauric dwellings to the inner court, where the women may breathe the fresh air through muslin blinds.

Maria Guthrie (letter, translated by Matthew Guthrie, 1802)

About Crimean Tatars

Show 11 more passages

Felt tents on carts, as in Herodotus

Editorial contextLeaving the Crimea, the party came on a few nomad tents: round, about four feet high and eight feet across, covered in rushes and thick felt, with a smoke-hole and a banner marking the horde. She notes they ride on carts called kibitkas, just like the cart-dwelling Scythians of Herodotus, and that women live in separate tents.

the very tents that I have been describing, called Kabitkies, are placed on carts of the same name, and drawn with their inhabitants from one grazing ground to another, as the difference of season, or a want of pasture for their numerous flocks, demands a change of place. The women are kept in separate tents pitched near those of the men

Maria Guthrie (letter, translated by Matthew Guthrie, 1802)

About Nogai Tatars

Keep in mind

The link to Herodotus's Scythians is a learned comparison, not evidence of descent.

Stone statues on the steppe that today's Tartars know nothing about

Editorial contextShe examined upright stone figures scattered over the steppe, each carved with a man's or woman's bust. From their dress and faces she judges them 'Tartar workmanship' of Kalmyk or Hun type, but notes that the living Tatars know nothing of them and she cannot tell whether they marked graves or grazing bounds. Matthew Guthrie adds a whole appendix on them.

They are standing perpendicularly in the ground, bearing each the bust of a man or woman tolerably sculptured for Tartar workmanship; which there can be no doubt of their being, from the particular dress in which they are represented, and the marked features of the Calmouks, or Huns. But whether these rude monuments of antiquity (for the present race of Tartars know nothing about them,)…

Maria Guthrie (letter, translated by Matthew Guthrie, 1802)

About Ancient steppe nomads; Nogai Tatars

Keep in mind

Attribution by dress and 'features' is guesswork; these stone figures (kamennye baby) belong to several earlier steppe peoples.

BuildingsMadzhary (Kuma River, Stavropol Krai)1780 to 1793 (reports); written 1801

Ruins 'all of Tartar origin', and a palace the Kalmyks would not live in

Editorial contextIn his appendix Matthew Guthrie lists brick ruins on the Akhtuba, at Madzhary on the Kuma (32 buildings in 1780, only four by 1793) and near the Terek, which Pallas had drawn, and calls them all of Tartar origin from their shape, construction and inscriptions. He follows Pallas in thinking them tombs or shrines, because Mongols so loved camp life that the Kalmyk princes of his day would not live in a palace Russia built for them.

all of Tartar origin, as is evident from several kinds of proof, viz. shape, construction, and inscriptions… I am of Pallas's opinion with regard to the sepulchral or religious destination of all those ruins, from the known attachment of the Monguls to a camp residence, which to this day prevents their descendants, the Calmuc princes, from inhabiting a palace built for them by the crown of Russia

Matthew Guthrie (editor's Appendix, 1802)

About Golden Horde Tatars; Kalmyks

Keep in mind

Second-hand from Pallas; Klaproth (W056) later argued Madzhary was a real town, not just a cemetery.

The khan's palace: 'painted Chinese structure'

Editorial contextLike Baron de Tott thirty years earlier, Maria Guthrie reaches for 'Chinese' to describe the painted palace of the khans. She says its interior is a maze (a 'Scythian labyrinth') with separate women's quarters, and on the next page describes the court mosque whose slender minaret sways under the climber.

The palace, which, as said before, rises in the middle of this curious Tauric city, to add greatly to the singularity and romantic appearance of the scene, is a curious species of painted Chinese structure, well suited to such a group of oddities.

Maria Guthrie (letter, translated by Matthew Guthrie, 1802)

About Crimean Tatars (Giray khans)

Keep in mind

She admits she lacks the vocabulary of 'oriental architecture'; 'Chinese' is an impression, not a statement about builders.

Kurgans: graves or ash heaps from Tartar tents?

Editorial contextCrossing the steppe she notes many conical mounds (kurgans) like those on the plain of Troy. She reports a view that they are heaps of ash from Tartar camps and adds her own twist: that the Tartars buried their dead beneath the ash to make cheap monuments. On the next page she suggests this is the origin of mound burial across Europe.

Some people contend that they are not tombs, but hillocks formed by the ashes thrown out of the Tartar tents while encamped on the spot; which is a fact, and a very wise measure too, as, by making the graves of their companions the bases of these conic hillocks, they prevent putrid exhalations, while they raise a rude monument to departed friends without either trouble or expence

Maria Guthrie (letter, translated by Matthew Guthrie, 1802)

About Nogai Tatars; ancient steppe nomads

Keep in mind

A speculation presented as fact; most steppe kurgans are ancient burial mounds far older than the Tatars.

How to make koumis

Editorial contextAt a steppe village hospitable Tatars brought koumis and a brandy distilled from mare's milk. Maria took down the recipe for her husband: warm mare's milk, a sixth part warm water and a starter of old koumis, sour milk or rye leaven, churned and left to ferment a day and a night. She found it sourish-sweet and pleasant.

To any given quantity of warm Mares' Milk, the Crim Tartars add a sixth part warm water of the same temperature, with a little old Koumis, sour cows' milk, or a piece of sour leaven of their rye-bread, as a ferment; and mix all together in a species of churn… The koumis has a sourish sweet taste by no means unpleasant to my palate

Maria Guthrie (letter, translated by Matthew Guthrie, 1802)

About Crimean Tatars

Daily lifeCrimea1795 to 1796

Marriage sight unseen

Editorial contextShe explains that a Crimean Tatar groom never saw his bride before the wedding and relied on a matron go-between. The groom then bargained with the father, usually offering a cow and some sheep; the imam married the couple with little ceremony, and the groom treated his friends to pipes, coffee and sherbet outside the house.

for an inhabitant of the Taurida never sees his bride till the nuptial torch is lighted up; so that if it were not for the friendly ministry of a grave matron, or go between (the Pronuba of the Antients), who has the privilege of taking a peep at the bride, a man might marry the grandmother instead of the daughter.

Maria Guthrie (letter, translated by Matthew Guthrie, 1802)

About Crimean Tatars

Keep in mind

She says herself that 'all is mystery' about women's lives; this is what she was told.

Daily lifeCrimeabefore 1783 (reported in 1796)

Nailed by the ear to his own shop door

Editorial contextDescribing justice under the khans, she says judges ruled on the spot and punished at once: cheating shopkeepers were nailed by the ear to their doors, small offences got the bastinado and serious ones the bowstring for Muslims but a halter for Christians and Jews. She adds that Turks and Tatars rarely cheated.

A shopkeeper caught in the act of cheating with false or short weights was nailed by the ear to his own shop-door, that the whole market might know the knave, and watch him in future… Lesser offences were instantly punished with the bastinado, and greater with the bow-string, if a true believer; for a halter was the portion of an infidel

Maria Guthrie (letter, translated by Matthew Guthrie, 1802)

About Crimean Tatars (under the khans)

Keep in mind

Describes the system before Russian rule, which she did not see.

'Tartar' as a convenient catch-all

Editorial contextIn a footnote Matthew Guthrie admits that scholars like Georgi and Tooke had tried to separate Mongols from Tartars, but says the steppe peoples are so alike that everyone will go on using one generic name, 'Scythians' for ancient times and 'Tartars' for modern ones, simply to save trouble.

Notwithstanding all the trouble taken by Professor Georgi, Mr. Tooke, &c. to distinguish the Monguls, &c. from the Tartars, there is so much similitude… that a generic name for the whole will always be employed by every one who is not minutely treating of their subdivisions, let professed historians do what they please to prevent it

Matthew Guthrie (editor's footnote in the Appendix, 1802)

About Steppe nomads in general

The Nogais: a splinter of the Golden Horde

Editorial contextCrossing the Nogai steppe she explains the horde's name: the Nogais split from the Golden Horde under a leader called Nogai, which, she suggests, let them escape Timur's destruction of the Horde in the 1380s and 1390s. She adds that Russian rule has greatly changed them since earlier travellers' accounts.

The Nogay Tartars, who have wandered for some ages in this desert (a part of the primitive or little Scythia of the ancients), were originally a subdivision of the famous golden horde placed in the Kaptchak by the conqueror Zingis Chan, (properly Tschinghis), who, on some quarrel among themselves, separated from the main body of their nation, under a chief or general named Nogay

Maria Guthrie (letter, translated by Matthew Guthrie, 1802)

About Nogai Tatars

Tatars collect money to 'free' a charming Greek lady

Editorial contextAfter mocking whirling dervishes, Maria offers a story to the Tatars' credit: a Greek-born countess, married to a Russian general, so charmed the Tatars of Eupatoria with her Turkish that they took her for a Muslim woman held captive by Christians and secretly raised money to buy her freedom.

so charmed the honest Tartars with the graces of her person, and conversation in the Turkish language, that they, ignorant of her rank and quality, conceived an idea of her being a fair daughter of Mahomet, held in Christian bondage by the right of war, and secretly opened a subscription among themselves to purchase her liberty

Maria Guthrie (letter, translated by Matthew Guthrie, 1802)

About Crimean Tatars

Keep in mind

An anecdote about another traveller, not something she witnessed.

The fine print

How we know

firsthand The author saw the places or people described.

Woman traveler; letters edited by spouse

Research notes
  • Distinguish Maria's travel letters from Matthew's antiquarian additions.

Why it matters

Towns, antiquities and contemporary communities.

Places named

Crimea; northern Black Sea

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