Written source · English

Captain Cochrane's walk across Siberian Tartary

A British naval captain's mostly on-foot journey from St Petersburg to Kamchatka and back, 1820 to 1823.

Full title Narrative of a Pedestrian Journey through Russia and Siberian Tartary

John Dundas Cochrane

Read the 12 passagesOpen the original book

John Dundas Cochrane (1793-1825), a Royal Navy captain on half pay, set out in 1820 to walk across Russia and Siberia, largely alone and with little money. He was robbed near St Petersburg, helped by officials and villagers all the way, reached the Kolyma and Kamchatka (where he married), and came back through Yakutsk, Irkutsk, Kiakhta, Tomsk and Tobolsk in 1822 to 1823. His lively, opinionated narrative first appeared in London in 1824; this corpus copy is the American edition published in Philadelphia the same year. He uses 'Siberian Tartary' and 'the wilds of Tartary' for all of Siberia.

How they knew
Part eyewitness
Who “Tartar” means here
Mostly the Muslim Tatars of Kazan, Tobolsk, Tara and Tomsk and the Bashkirs, but also a loose family label for Yakuts, Yukaghirs and 'other Tartar nations' of Siberia. 'Tartary' is his word for Siberia as a whole.
Why read it
A warm, first-hand portrait of Tatar village hospitality and houses on the Siberian road, plus the popular Russian lore he picked up (crescents on church domes, Tatar cave-dwellers, Omsk as a Tatar stronghold).
Watch out
Cochrane travelled fast and often repeats local claims without checking them; his history of Yermak is, as he admits, translated from a note on a map. He is often scornful of the peoples he meets, and some of his 'facts' are wrong.

What it says: 12 passages

Kazan: a noble city rising from its ashes

Editorial contextCochrane found Kazan still rebuilding after a great fire five years earlier. A cathedral had stood on the site of the ancient mosque, and the old palace had been destroyed by an explosion in the citadel. Wooden houses and even wooden street paving had fed the fire, and the emperor was now encouraging brick. Of about 40,000 people, he says 12,000 were Tatars, living mainly in the marshy suburbs, with many mosques.

It had formerly a cathedral on the site of the ancient mosque, as also a palace; both were destroyed by an explosion in the citadel. The destruction of the city was indeed nearly complete, and it is difficult to conceive how any vestige could remain, a high wind driving a mass of flame over houses built, and streets absolutely paved with wood.

John Dundas Cochrane (1824)

About Kazan Tatars and Russians

Keep in mind

The fire is real (Kazan burned in 1815), but the history of the cathedral and palace is what Cochrane was told.

Sibir, 'the capital of the Tartars'

Editorial contextCochrane retells the Cossack Yermak's conquest: after taking Tyumen he marched on Sibir, 'the capital of the Tartars', twelve miles from where Tobolsk now stands, entered it in triumph on 26 October and 'from the head of a banditti, became a sovereign prince'. He notes that the town's name 'seems to have given name' to all Asiatic Russia. He admits the history is translated from a note printed on a map given him by the governor of Tobolsk.

Yermak instantly directed his march against Sibir, the capital of the Tartars, distant twelve miles, and on the 26th October entered it in triumph, received the oath of allegiance of his new subjects, and, from the head of a banditti, became a sovereign prince.

John Dundas Cochrane (1824), translating a biographical note on a map

About Siberian Tatars (Khanate of Sibir)

Keep in mind

Second-hand history, as Cochrane says on n112.

Omsk, once a Tatar stronghold

Editorial contextCochrane says Omsk was 'one of the strong places of the Tartars' and held out against Yermak. Across the Irtysh lay the land of the wandering Kazakhs (whom he calls Kirgeese), with no fields or houses, and he says Kazakh and Kalmyk children could be seen in Omsk as slaves, sold by their parents for tobacco or spirits.

Omsk was one of the strong places of the Tartars, and successfully withstood the attacks of the great Yermak. The country round is fertile as to its soil, though not extensively cultivated: it is one vast plane as level as a floor.

John Dundas Cochrane (1824)

About Siberian Tatars; Kazakhs ('Kirgeese'); Kalmyks

Keep in mind

Doubtful: the Russian fortress of Omsk was founded in 1716, long after Yermak, and no Tatar fortress there is known to have resisted him.

White plastered chimneys and a raised sleeping floor

Editorial contextNear Tara Cochrane passed neat Tatar villages whose white plastered chimneys and ovens reminded him of home. Inside, half the room was raised about fourteen inches and used for sitting, sleeping and storage; there were no chairs, only clean bedding and many pillows, which were always offered to a guest. A few pages earlier he stayed in a Tatar district of seventy miles without a single Russian, praising the clean houses and well-kept land.

At Kamenski I quitted the great Siberian road not far from Tara, passing several neat Tartar villages, whose white plastered chimneys and ovens reminded me a little of those in my own country. The furniture consists of a few earthenware utensils, and a set of tea things: one half of the room is elevated above the other about fourteen inches

John Dundas Cochrane (1824)

About Siberian Tatars

Keep in mind

On the same page Cochrane calls the Tatars near the Vagai river 'of the Bashkire race'; they were Siberian Tatars.

Show 8 more passages

Kungur's Tatar caves, now ice-cellars

Editorial contextOn his way home Cochrane stopped at Kungur, a town of 1,100 houses. Before it became a provincial capital, he says, it was a favourite place of the Tartars, and the caves where they lived were still shown to visitors, now used as ice-cellars and storehouses.

Formerly it was the capital of a province, and previous to that period, a favourite place of the Tartars. The caves where they resided, are still shewn in the light of useful curiosities, inasmuch as they are converted into ice-cellars, and storehouses.

John Dundas Cochrane (1824)

About Tatars (former inhabitants)

Keep in mind

Local tradition. Kungur is famous for its natural ice cave; the idea that Tatars lived in it is folklore, not evidence of Tatar cave cities.

'No purse being necessary among these Tartars'

Editorial contextWalking toward Tyumen with sore feet, Cochrane stopped at a small Tartar village where he was fed for nothing. He shook hands with his host, received the Muslim blessing 'Peace be with you', and squatted on his heels with the family to eat. Hospitality to strangers comes up again and again in his account of the Siberian Tatars.

At the last station, a small Tartar village, I was regaled with pork, bread and eggs, at free cost, no purse being necessary among these Tartars. I partook of the wholesome fare a la Tartare, shaking hands first with the host, and receiving his blessing of "Peace be with you," then squatting on my hams, like the rest of the company.

John Dundas Cochrane (1824)

About Siberian Tatars

Keep in mind

A Muslim household serving pork is surprising; Cochrane may have misidentified the meat or the village.

Conquest 'like the Spaniards in South America'

Editorial contextSumming up the Russian conquest of Siberia, Cochrane writes that Tartar tribes who would not readily submit 'were at once exterminated', with a cruelty like that of the Spaniards in the Americas. Only Chinese resistance on the Amur, ending in the treaty of 1689, stopped the Russians from taking Mongolia.

Those tribes of Tartars who were not readily reducible to obedience, were at once exterminated; and something like the same merciless cruelty which characterised the Spaniards in South America, was practised in Siberia.

John Dundas Cochrane (1824), translating a biographical note on a map

About Siberian Tatars and other native peoples

Keep in mind

A sweeping judgment from a second-hand history; it is not clear whether the words are the map note's or Cochrane's own.

Princes of Tartar origin

Editorial contextAmong his hosts in Kazan were Prince Davydov, head of the post, and Prince Tenishev, an army general; Cochrane notes that both princes were 'of Tartar origin'. He then explains that Russian titles of Tatar or foreign origin did not by themselves give noble rank. The passage is a reminder that many Russian noble families traced their roots to Tatar ancestors.

Both the princes are of Tartar origin, though their character and conduct would do honour to the proudest rank of polished society.

John Dundas Cochrane (1824)

About Russian nobility of Tatar descent

Keep in mind

The 'though' reflects Cochrane's prejudice.

'Never so happy as in the wilds of Tartary'

Editorial contextIn his preface Cochrane calls all of northern Asia 'Tartary' and invites scientists to explore 'the vast fields of Tartary' after him. He closes by saying he was never so happy as in the wilds of Tartary. For him, as for many readers in the 1820s, 'Tartary' simply meant Siberia and the lands beyond it, not a country or a state.

I may be allowed to add, that after such a journey, I might be supposed cured of the spirit of travelling, at least in so eccentric a way; yet the supposition is far from the fact, for as I am conscious that I was never so happy as in the wilds of Tartary, so have I never been so anxious to enter on a similar field as at this moment.

John Dundas Cochrane (1824), preface

About All Siberian peoples ('Tartary' as a region)

Yakuts are Tartars: the Kazan test

Editorial contextArriving in Yakutsk in October 1822, Cochrane states that the Yakuts are 'evidently of Tartar origin, as their language is understood by the Tartars of Kazan'. He praises them as ingenious smiths who make their own knives, guns and kettles, living mostly on horse-flesh, but also describes them with the harsh prejudice of his day.

They are evidently of Tartar origin, as their language is understood by the Tartars of Kazan. Their complexion is a light copper colour; they are generally of low stature, with more regular and pleasing features, than the Tongousi

John Dundas Cochrane (1824)

About Yakuts (Sakha); Kazan Tatars

Keep in mind

He repeats a common claim rather than testing it himself (compare Sarychev, W009). The rest of his character sketch is prejudiced.

Why Novgorod's crosses have no crescent

Editorial contextCochrane was told that Novgorod was proud of the plain crosses on its steeples: they meant the Tartars had never entered the city. Cities re-conquered from the Tartars, he says, carry a crescent under the cross. This is a popular explanation that Russians told travellers; historians usually read the crescent at the foot of Orthodox crosses as an older Christian symbol, not a mark of Tatar rule.

The steeples of Novgorod present a monument of considerable pride in the estimation of its inhabitants. Their distinction is in the cross, at the top, standing alone, unaccompanied by the crescent, and this is an emblem intimating, that the Tartars, in all their invasions, never succeeded so far, as to enter the city.

John Dundas Cochrane (1824)

About Russians remembering the Tatar (Mongol) invasions

Keep in mind

Local lore repeated as fact. Novgorod was indeed never taken by the Mongols, but the cross-and-crescent explanation is a legend.

Remains of large 'Tartar ovens' near Chinggis's birthplace

Editorial contextIn the Onon valley east of Lake Baikal, Cochrane passed Kondou, 'an ancient place' held to be the birthplace of the 'conqueror of China' (Chinggis Khan). There he saw 'many remains of large Tartar ovens', but gives no more detail, being more interested in a lively 93-year-old woman who cooked him dinner.

I saw many remains of large Tartar ovens, but nothing that excited my curiosity so much as an old lady of ninety-three years of age.

John Dundas Cochrane (1824)

About Mongols (the 'conqueror of China')

Keep in mind

Cochrane does not describe the 'ovens' or say how he knew they were Tartar. The Onon valley is indeed linked with Chinggis Khan's birth in Mongol tradition.

The fine print

How we know

firsthand The author saw the places or people described.

Traveler

Research notes
  • Claims and estimates need passage-level checking.

Why it matters

Explicit use of Siberian Tartary; conditions along an extensive overland journey.

Places named

Russia; Siberia; Kamchatka; Chinese frontier

Keep exploring