Written source · English

A Russian mission crosses Mongolia to Peking, 1820 to 1821

The escort officer of a Russian church mission records the Mongol steppe, Urga and Peking as he rode through them in 1820 and 1821.

Full title Travels of the Russian Mission through Mongolia to China

George Timkowski

Read the 14 passagesOpen the original book

George (Egor) Timkovsky was the Russian official who escorted the 1820 relief of the Russian Orthodox mission from Kiakhta across Mongolia to Peking and back. His journal, first printed in Russian in 1824, came out in English in 1827 from the French version revised and heavily annotated by the orientalist Julius Klaproth. Timkovsky describes felt tents, the camp-city of Urga, ruined temples of Mongol princes, burial, shamans, lamas, food and the Chinese frontier forts. This corpus copy is volume I of the 1827 London edition, which also includes Klaproth's notes and extracts translated from Chinese works.

How they knew
Part eyewitness
Who “Tartar” means here
Mostly the Mongols (Khalkhas, Tsakhars, Sunits), whom he usually just calls Mongols; 'Tartar' appears for Genghis Khan's people, for the Manchu-era 'Tartar town' of Peking, and for the Turkic Tartars of Kazan.
Why read it
One of the best eyewitness pictures of Mongolia around 1820: a nomad capital made of tents, ruined brick temples that local Mongols credit to their own princes, and even rock outcrops that only look like ruins.
Watch out
Klaproth's footnotes are a separate voice and often correct Timkovsky; some passages are Timkovsky's own translations from Chinese books, which Klaproth calls faulty. Mongol informants' stories (loadstone rocks, the living Buddha's changing face) are hearsay.

What it says: 14 passages

Urga, a capital made of tents

Editorial contextUrga (modern Ulaanbaatar), the seat of the Khalkha living Buddha and of the Qing governors, was mostly a town of felt tents. Timkovsky says every dwelling, including the Russian house, stood inside a palisade, with tents in the courtyards and only a small Chinese-style house of two rooms. Elsewhere he describes its temples and a separate Chinese trading quarter, the maimatchin.

Ourga consists chiefly of kibitkas: the evening being foggy we did not see it till we were within three wersts of it. … Our abode, like all the habitations in Ourga, was surrounded with palisades; in the first court there was a tent for the guard; in the second four very spacious tents had been erected for us, behind which was a small Chinese house

George Timkowski (English translation, 1827)

About Khalkha Mongols; Manchu and Chinese officials

CitiesBeijing1267 to 1437

The 'Tartar town' of Peking was first built by the Mongols

Editorial contextAs the mission reached the walls of Peking, Klaproth added a note on the history of the 'Tartar town', the northern inner city where the Manchu garrison lived. It was first walled by the Mongols in 1267 with eleven gates; the Ming cut it down to nine gates, which is why its governor was called governor of the nine gates. So the 'Tartar' city of Beijing was a Mongol Yuan foundation reshaped by the Chinese Ming.

the Mongols, in 1267; it was then sixty li in circumference, and had eleven gates. The first emperor of the dynasty of Ming took off five li from its northern side, and took away two of the gates, so that only nine remained. It is for this reason that the governor of the Tartar town bears the title of governor of the nine gates.

Julius Klaproth (editor's footnote in the 1827 English translation)

About Mongols (Yuan dynasty); Manchu bannermen

Keep in mind

An editor's footnote drawn from Chinese sources; the first words of the sentence are on the previous page (n337).

A ruined earth fort on the Mongol frontier

Editorial contextNear the end of the desert crossing the mission sheltered at Tsagan balgassou, the 'white walled town', a small square fort of rammed earth, now in ruins and used to shelter cattle. Timkovsky describes its bastions and a stone circle he took for the site of a khan's tent, and reports that people credited such forts to the Kangxi emperor's campaigns of the late 1600s.

The ramparts, which are in ruins, are five toises high, and have small bastions at the four corners. In the interior, in the north-west angle, there is a circular space enclosed with unhewn stones: it was probably the site of the Khan's tent. … Some persons affirm that this fort, as well as those situated farther to the south, served as encampments during the expeditions of the celebrated Emperor Kanghi

George Timkowski (English translation, 1827)

About Mongols; Qing (Manchu) armies

Keep in mind

The attribution to Kangxi is hearsay, which Timkovsky reports without endorsing.

Ruined brick temples of a Mongol prince

Editorial contextInvited by their Mongol guide Idam, members of the mission rode out to a hillside covered with ruins of stone buildings about two versts long. Idam said a Mongol prince called Sain Koung had lived there about 300 years earlier and that the buildings were temples. Timkovsky records the materials exactly: granite foundations, walls of sun-dried brick, and clay mixed with gravel instead of mortar. On the next page he adds stone cornices, vaulted niches, a stone-paved court and broken green tiles, and says the Mongols now rarely visit these 'monuments of their former splendour'.

we reached a mountain, the declivity of which was covered with ruins of stone-buildings, about two wersts in extent. … The buildings, of which the ruins lay before us, were temples. … The foundations were of granite, like that of the neighbouring mountain; the walls are of bricks, dried in the sun.

George Timkowski (English translation, 1827)

About Khalkha Mongols

Keep in mind

The date and builder come from the guide Idam's oral tradition; Timkovsky could not check them.

Show 10 more passages

Gher, ourto and ordo: words for Mongol dwellings

Editorial contextIn a footnote Timkovsky explains the vocabulary: the felt tent the Russians call a jourta or kibitka is a gher in Mongol; a cluster of tents forming a village or station is an ourto; oulous means empire or people; and ordo (the root of 'horde') means a chateau or imperial palace. It is a neat reminder that the famous Tartar 'horde' was originally the ruler's camp-palace.

Such a tent (made of felt,) … is in Mongol called gher; several tents together, forming a kind of village or station, are called ourto. Oulous, or olos, signifies in Mongol, empire, people; ordo, a chateau, or imperial palace.

George Timkowski (English translation, 1827)

About Mongols

A Buddhist monument of stone, clay and grey brick

Editorial contextOn a walk near Urga the Russians climbed to a soubourgan (suburgan, a Buddhist stupa) built by a Mongol prince. Timkovsky notes how it was made: a square base of unhewn stone bound with clay and straw, grey brick walls, and a core of sand and stones. It shows Mongol nobles commissioning permanent religious buildings even while living in tents.

we ascended an eminence, on which stands a soubourgan, or sacred pyramid, of the disciples of Boudha, erected by a Mongol prince. The pedestal, which is of a square form, is made of unhewn stone, cemented with a composition made of clay and straw: the walls are made of gray bricks, and the interior filled with sand and stones.

George Timkowski (English translation, 1827)

About Khalkha Mongols

Ashes kept in monuments of wood or stone

Editorial contextExplaining Mongol funerals, Timkovsky says the lama decides how each body is disposed of, and that the devout or wealthy raise monuments of wood or stone to hold the ashes. He backs this up by quoting the thirteenth-century friar Rubruck (Ruysbroek) on Tartars keeping ashes in 'high pyramids', a sign that he read his Mongols through older European books.

Those who wish to show their devotion or their riches, cause monuments of wood or stone to be erected, in which they deposit the ashes of the deceased. This custom has been observed in Mongolia from the remotest times. Ruysbroek, says expressly: "The Tartars (Mongols), like the nations of antiquity, burn their dead, and preserve their ashes in high pyramids."

George Timkowski, quoting William of Rubruck from Bergeron's French collection

About Mongols

Keep in mind

The Rubruck line is quoted secondhand from a French anthology, not checked against Rubruck's text.

A child's body left in a leather sack

Editorial contextOn the road the mission was startled to find a dead child sewn in a leather sack, with a scrap of sheepskin, millet and bread laid on top. Timkovsky says this was the usual Mongol way of disposing of the dead, and goes on to explain that lamas chose between burning, water burial, exposure on a platform or leaving the body on the steppe for animals and birds.

We were greatly surprised at seeing on the road, six wersts from Elesoutou, the dead body of a child in a leather sack. Upon the sack was a little piece of sheep-skin, some millet, and some bread. This is the usual manner of burying the dead among the Mongols.

George Timkowski (English translation, 1827)

About Mongols

Shamans and the household god Ongon

Editorial contextPassing the Ongon mountains, named for the 'king of the Shamans', Timkovsky notes that shamanism survived among the Mongols despite the Buddhist lamas. He gives the Mongol words for male and female shamans and describes Ongon, a household guardian made of scraps of red cloth that women kept in the tent and appeased with offerings when things went wrong.

Among these people a man is called beg, and a woman ouddogoun, in the Mongol language. They are distinguished by an ardent imagination in the evocation of spirits, which throws them into wild transports. Ongon is their household divinity, which watches over their families and flocks. These remnants of the Shamanic faith have still many zealous partisans among the Mongols

George Timkowski (English translation, 1827)

About Tsakhar Mongols

Milk, dried cheese and milk brandy

Editorial contextA tall lama told the travellers about a cattle plague that had left the steppe people short of food. Timkovsky records their diet: meat when herds were large, otherwise milk, dried cheese (kourout) and millet, with a milk brandy drunk in summer. On the facing page he adds that they made coarse felt from sheep's wool, twisted horsehair into ropes, and had 'neither handicrafts nor manufactures'.

When they possess many cows and sheep, they subsist upon their flesh, otherwise they content themselves with milk and dried cheese (bissalak and kourout), they likewise make use of a kind of millet (shara bonda). To exhilarate their spirits they drink, though only in summer, a kind of brandy, which they extract from milk.

George Timkowski (English translation, 1827)

About Khalkha Mongols

Turkestan speech sounds like Kazan Tatar

Editorial contextWhile in Peking, Timkovsky talked through an interpreter with men from Little Bucharia (the Tarim basin towns) and noticed that their language was very like that of the Kazan Tatars, 'who are also of Turkish origin'. Here 'Tartar' means the Turkic-speaking Muslims of the Volga, a different people entirely from the Mongols he had just crossed.

In the conversations I had in China, through the medium of an interpreter, with natives of Little Bucharia who had come to Peking, I observed that their language much resembles that of the Tartars of Kasan, who are also of Turkish origin.

George Timkowski (English translation, 1827)

About Turkic peoples of Eastern Turkestan; Kazan Tatars

Rocks that look like ruined buildings

Editorial contextA day before seeing the real ruins, Timkovsky camped by a granite ridge that from far off looked like a forest and close up looked like altars, a sarcophagus, a tower and 'the ruins of a house with a stone floor'. He calls it a 'lusus naturae', a freak of nature, and explains it as decomposed granite lying in slabs. On the following page his Mongol hosts add that the rock is full of loadstone that pulls at any gun brought near it.

At a distance it looks like a forest; but when seen near at hand, it presents an extraordinary lusus nature. These rocks resemble, now an immense altar, now a sarcophagus; here a tower, there the ruins of a house with a stone floor. The rock, a decomposed granite, lies in large masses from three to nine inches thick

George Timkowski (English translation, 1827)

About Khalkha Mongols

Keep in mind

The author himself judged these to be natural rock, not buildings.

A Mongol official's belief about Genghis Khan's houses

Editorial contextA Mongol officer (the zakiroktchi) told the Russians he was sure several European kings descended from Genghis Khan, since Genghis had reigned in Russia, and that ruins of Genghis Khan's houses still stood in Mongolia and probably in Russia too. Timkovsky dismisses the royal descent as absurd but records the belief. It is an early example of a local legend crediting ruins to Genghis Khan.

The zakiroktchi was persuaded that several sovereigns of Europe must be descendants of Gingis Khan, … because he had reigned in Russia, and other foreign countries; a conjecture of which it seems unnecessary to shew the absurdity. He informed us that there still existed in Mongolia ruins of houses that belonged to Gingis Khan, and he supposed there must be some in Russia.

George Timkowski (English translation, 1827)

About Khalkha Mongols

Keep in mind

Hearsay from a Mongol official; Timkovsky himself rejects part of it.

A living Buddha whose face follows the moon

Editorial contextTimkovsky reports what the Khalkhas believed about their koutouktou (Jebtsundamba Khutughtu), the reincarnating high lama of Urga: that he had already lived through sixteen generations and that his face aged and grew young again with the moon. He presents it as their belief, not his.

The Kalkas affirm, that their koutouktou has already seen sixteen generations, and that his physiognomy changes with the phases of the moon. At new moon, he has the appearance of a youth; at the full, of a man in the prime of life; and appears quite old in the last quarter.

George Timkowski (English translation, 1827)

About Khalkha Mongols

Keep in mind

A popular belief reported secondhand.

The fine print

How we know

firsthand The author saw the places or people described.

Mission escort / traveler

Research notes
  • Volume I verified; Klaproth's added notes must be separated from Timkowski's observations.

Why it matters

Mongolian routes, institutions and communities.

Places named

Mongolia; China

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