Written source · English

Wrangel's expedition to the Polar Sea

A Russian naval officer's narrative of three years on the Arctic coast of Siberia, with a close look at the Yakuts, 1820 to 1823.

Full title Narrative of an Expedition to the Polar Sea

Ferdinand von Wrangel

Read the 10 passagesOpen the original book

Ferdinand von Wrangel (1797-1870), a Baltic German officer in the Russian navy, led a survey of the Arctic coast east of the Kolyma from 1820 to 1823, travelling by horse, dog sled and boat and wintering at Nizhne Kolymsk. His long introduction reviews earlier Russian voyages and reports, including tales of ruins and mammoth bones on the Arctic islands. The German text was prepared by Engelhardt from the officers' journals (Berlin, 1839); this corpus copy is the shortened English translation by Mrs Sabine, edited by Edward Sabine (London, 1840). The Tartars appear through the Yakuts, whom Wrangel treats as Tartars by descent.

How they knew
Part eyewitness
Who “Tartar” means here
The Yakuts (Sakha), whom Wrangel says descend from the Tartars, and in passing the steppe peoples of 'Tartary' who make kumis.
Why read it
Sharp, sympathetic observation of Yakut houses and herding life, a Yakut elder's own memory of lost writing and southern origins, and a rare explicit warning not to read ordinary ruined huts as relics of a vanished race.
Watch out
The book was written up by an editor from several officers' journals and then abridged in translation, so 'Wrangel' is partly a composite voice. Much of the introduction repeats earlier reports second-hand.

What it says: 10 passages

A half-millionaire who still lives in a yurt

Editorial contextIn an oval valley once held by a Tungus chief and later taken by Yakuts from the south, Wrangel found a thriving settlement: many yurts, some as big as Russian houses, two good churches with towers, and big herds of cattle and horses. The Yakut headman had paid for both churches and was said to be worth half a million roubles, yet he still lived in a yurt by an open hearth, drank kumis and ate horse-flesh.

Numerous Jurti, some approaching to the dimensions of Russian houses, two good churches with towers … owes much of its prosperity to the Jakutian Golowa or superintendent, who has built and endowed the two churches at his own expense. His fortune is said to amount to half a million of roubles, nevertheless he has in no respect altered his original national customs. He lives in a Jurte

Ferdinand von Wrangel (English translation by Mrs Sabine, 1840)

About Yakuts (Sakha)

Keep in mind

The size of the headman's fortune is hearsay ('is said to').

Summer tents of boiled birch bark

Editorial contextThe Yakuts had two kinds of home. For summer they used the urasa, a light round tent of poles covered with sheets of birch bark that were boiled to soften them and then sewn together. White outside and yellow inside, they looked from a distance like canvas tents. The herders moved with them to the best pastures while they cut hay for the winter.

In summer they use Urossy, which are light circular tents formed of poles, and covered with birch-bark, which they strip from the trees in large pieces. These strips are first softened by boiling, and are then sewed together; the outside being white, and the inside yellow, the Urossy have a very pleasing appearance, and at a distance resemble large white canvas tents.

Ferdinand von Wrangel (English translation by Mrs Sabine, 1840)

About Yakuts (Sakha)

Winter houses shaped like cut-off pyramids

Editorial contextIn winter the Yakuts moved into their jurti: cottages of thin boards shaped like a truncated pyramid and covered thickly with branches, grass and mud. The small windows were closed with plates of ice in winter and fish-skin or oiled paper in summer. The floor was beaten mud sunk a few feet into the ground, or boarded in richer homes, with an open hearth burning all winter. Wrangel thought these suited the climate better than Russian-style houses.

These are cottages formed of thin boards in the shape of a truncated pyramid, and covered thickly on the outside with branches, grass, and mud. A couple of small openings which admit a scanty light are closed in winter by plates of ice, and in summer by fish-membrane, or oiled paper. The floor is generally of beaten mud, and is sunk two or three feet below the ground

Ferdinand von Wrangel (English translation by Mrs Sabine, 1840)

About Yakuts (Sakha)

BuildingsBear Islands, East Siberian Sea1763 report, commented on in 1839

Not the ruins of a departed race

Editorial contextSergeant Andreyev reported in 1763 a ruined timber 'fortress' on the Bear Islands, its beams seemingly cut with stone tools, built by 'what other nation cannot now be determined'. A German writer, von Berg, later saw such ruins as signs of great changes over many centuries. Wrangel disagrees in a footnote: these half-buried wooden huts are just like those still used in the region and are far too flimsy to have survived for centuries. This passage is not about Tartars, but it is an early, direct warning against reading ordinary ruins as relics of a lost people.

A hasty glance at these half-subterranean WOODEN jurti is quite enough to convince any one, that they are not the remains of any remote antiquity, but merely huts resembling those still in use among the population of these regions, and of too slight a construction, and too perishable a material, to permit of their having remained for centuries as the monuments of a departed race.

Ferdinand von Wrangel (English translation by Mrs Sabine, 1840), footnote

About Unknown builders (local Arctic peoples)

Keep in mind

Andreyev's description is quoted from his 1763 journal (pages n99 to n100); Wrangel's own survey in 1820 found no trace of the fortress.

Show 6 more passages

Kumis, but not the intoxicating kind

Editorial contextIn a footnote Wrangel says the Yakuts make kumis from mare's milk 'in the same manner as in Tartary', except that they have not learned, like the Tartars, to make it intoxicating. It is so nourishing that a couple of skins of kumis hung from the saddle are often the only food carried on a hunting trip of several days.

This well known beverage, prepared from mares' milk, is made here in the same manner as in Tartary; only the Jakuti have happily not learnt, like the Tartars, to make it intoxicating. It is an agreable beverage, and so nourishing, that a couple of large skins full of kumys hung to the saddle, are often the only provisions taken for a foraging excursion of a few days.

Ferdinand von Wrangel (English translation by Mrs Sabine, 1840), footnote

About Yakuts (Sakha); 'Tartars' of the steppe

Keep in mind

Sauer (W008) reports that Yakut kumis could intoxicate if drunk in quantity, so accounts differ.

Horsehair for the spirit of the mountain

Editorial contextCrossing a mountain, Wrangel's lead Yakut driver pulled a few hairs from his horse's mane and tied them to a tree as an offering to the spirit of the mountain. Travellers on foot planted a stick instead. Even baptised Yakuts kept the custom, and the drivers sang songs praising the landscape, which his sergeant explained was meant to flatter the spirit.

Our leading postilion got off his horse, plucked a few hairs from the mane, and fastened them to the tree with much solemnity of manner. He told us that this was a customary offering to the spirit of the mountain, to obtain his protection during the journey, and that foot-passengers placed a stick in the ground with the same intention.

Ferdinand von Wrangel (English translation by Mrs Sabine, 1840)

About Yakuts (Sakha)

A priest who burned the idols

Editorial contextWrangel reports that the Kolyma Yakuts were now all baptised. A priest named Slezzow, twenty years earlier, had destroyed every idol and pagan altar he found, by fire or water. Yet shamans still had followers and were consulted, even by Russians, to find stray animals or thieves. A footnote adds that newborn girls had once often been left in baskets hung in trees.

The Jakuti are now all baptized. A priest from Sredne Kolymsk visits these settlements every year. An ecclesiastic named Slezzow, who lived here twenty years ago, showed undaunted and unwearied zeal in the abolition of Schamanism. Wherever he discovered idols or heathen altars, they were destroyed by fire or by water, and none such are now to be met with.

Ferdinand von Wrangel (English translation by Mrs Sabine, 1840)

About Yakuts (Sakha) of the Kolyma

Keep in mind

Wrangel approves of the conversion; the destruction he describes means few Yakut sacred objects survived to be seen.

A Tartar named Sachalar, forefather of the Yakuts

Editorial contextWrangel writes that the Yakuts' faces and language confirm their tradition of descent from the Tartars. In a footnote he gives the tradition itself: their ancestor was a Tartar called Sachalar, who crossed the mountains to Kirenga on the Lena, settled and married a Tungus woman. That, he explains, is why the Yakuts still call themselves Sachalary (Sakha).

Their countenance and language fully confirm the tradition of their descent from the Tartars. … According to this tradition, their ancestor was a Tartar, named Sachalar, who came from his own country on the other side of the mountains, to Kirenga on the Lena, where he settled and married a Tungusian woman; the Jakuti still call themselves Sachalary.

Ferdinand von Wrangel (English translation by Mrs Sabine, 1840), text and footnote

About Yakuts (Sakha)

Keep in mind

An origin tradition as reported to Wrangel. It differs from the Omogai legend recorded by Sauer (W008).

Once they had writing, and knew lions and tigers

Editorial contextNear Sredne Kolymsk Wrangel befriended an 82-year-old Yakut who read and wrote Russian. The old man said his people had been more civilised before they split from 'the other Tartar races', and had once had their own writing, since lost. As proof that they once lived far to the south, he quoted old sayings that mention gold, gems, lions and tigers, things Yakuts no longer knew.

He complained of the ignorance of his countrymen, who he said, had been formerly more civilized; and that before they separated from the other Tartar races, to whom they are allied, they had possessed written characters, and consequently means of intellectual cultivation, which they have since lost. He maintained, that his race had once inhabited far distant southern regions

Ferdinand von Wrangel (English translation by Mrs Sabine, 1840), reporting a Yakut elder

About Yakuts (Sakha)

Keep in mind

One elder's memory of lost traditions, which he himself says were fading. Old Turkic peoples of the south did use runic writing, but the elder gives no specifics.

Claws of a giant bird, or a rhinoceros?

Editorial contextSummarising the explorer Hedenstrom, Wrangel says one of the Lyakhov Islands seemed to be made of mammoth bones, which hunters had carried off by the boatload for eighty years. Along the Arctic shore lay skulls of two unknown beasts, one found with what looked like three-foot claws of a giant bird. The Yukaghirs used these 'claws' to strengthen their bows and told marvellous tales about the bird. A footnote says Dr Kyber believed they came from a kind of rhinoceros.

Near these last-named skulls something like the claw of an enormous bird is generally found. These claws are often three English feet long … The Jukahiri, who make use of these horny claws, to give increased force to their bows, maintain that the head and claws have both belonged to an enormous bird, respecting which they relate a number of marvellous stories.

Ferdinand von Wrangel (English translation by Mrs Sabine, 1840), summarising Hedenstrom's journal

About Yukaghirs and Russian fur-hunters

Keep in mind

Not about Tartars. The 'claws' are almost certainly the horns of the extinct woolly rhinoceros, as Kyber suspected; the giant bird is Yukaghir legend.

The fine print

How we know

firsthand The author saw the places or people described.

Expedition leader; edited narrative

Research notes
  • Edited and translated publication; distinguish narrator from informants.

Why it matters

Settlements, Indigenous knowledge, environment and exploration.

Places named

Northeastern Siberia; Arctic

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