Written source · German

Güldenstädt's travels through southern Russia and the Caucasus

A German naturalist's expedition journal from the Volga, Terek, Kuban and Don steppes and Georgia, 1768 to 1775, published after his death by Pallas.

Full title Travels through Russia and in the Caucasus Mountains, 2 vols (St Petersburg 1787-1791), edited from Güldenstädt’s papers by Pallas, with maps and vocabularies

Johann Anton Güldenstädt; P. S. Pallas (ed.)

Read the 13 passagesOpen the original book

Johann Anton Güldenstädt (1745-1781), a Riga-born physician and naturalist in the service of the St Petersburg Academy, travelled from 1768 to 1775 along the lower Volga to Astrakhan, lived on the Terek frontier at Kizlyar, crossed Kabarda into Georgia and Imereti, then returned over the Kuban and Don steppes to Azov and through Ukraine. He died before publishing, and P. S. Pallas edited his diaries and his closing description of the Caucasus into two volumes (St Petersburg 1787 and 1791), adding signed footnotes. This corpus has both volumes (volume 1 in two copies) and Julius Klaproth's 1815 re-edition. His Tatars are Nogais, Kumyks, Terekeme, Kazan and Crimean Tatars, and he measured ruined buildings and stone statues on the steppe.

How they knew
Part eyewitness
Who “Tartar” means here
Turkic-speaking Muslim peoples of the Caucasus and its steppes: Nogais (Yedisan, Dzhambuluk and other hordes), Kumyks, Terekeme or Turkmen Tatars of Georgia and the Caspian coast, Kazan Tatars settled at Kizlyar, and Crimean Tatars. He always names Kalmyks, Circassians and Georgians separately.
Why read it
An Academy scientist's measured descriptions of steppe ruins, stone statues, graves and living Nogai camps, with open reasoning about who built what, and a clear map of which peoples he called Tatar.
Watch out
Published posthumously from unfinished notes; Pallas's footnotes sometimes correct or disagree with him (for example, he suggests Slavs rather than Nogais for the kurgans). Güldenstädt's attributions of ruins and statues to Nogais are his own inferences, and the Fraktur OCR needs care.

What it says: 13 passages

Whose town was Madshar?

Editorial contextFrom inscriptions he could read, Güldenstädt dated the town to about 500 years before his visit. The mosques and Muslim tombs told him the people were Muslims, and the history of the region told him they were Nogais. So, he says, the older idea that the ruins belonged to the Magyars (Hungarians), prompted by the name, should be dropped: if Hungarians ever lived here, the Tatars must have driven them out earlier.

From some inscriptions I recognised that the place … was inhabited about 500 years ago, and the style of the prayer-houses and mausolea shows that the inhabitants were Mohammedans and, according to the history of this region, Nogais. The present-day Madschars or Hungarians therefore lose the claim to these ruins that people had granted them

Working translation

Original wording

Aus einigen Inschrifften habe ich erkannt, daß der Ort … etwan vor 500 Jahren bewohnt gewesen, und die Bauart der Bethäuser und Mausoläen zeigt, daß die Einwohner Mohamedaner, und nach der Geschichte dieser Gegend Nogaier gewesen. Die heutigen Madscharen oder Ungarn verlieren also das Recht, welches man ihnen auf diese Trümmer zugestand

Johann Anton Güldenstädt (ed. P. S. Pallas, 1791)

About Nogai Tatars; Hungarians (Magyars)

Keep in mind

The Nogai attribution is Güldenstädt's inference. The town flourished under the Golden Horde in the 1300s (Ibn Battuta passed through it), before the Nogai Horde became the steppe power.

CitiesKizlyar1769 to 1773

Kazan Tatars in multinational Kizlyar

Editorial contextGüldenstädt describes the Russian frontier town of Kizlyar on the Terek as eight national quarters inside an earth rampart: Armenians, Georgians, baptised Nogais and Kumyks, Terek Cossacks, Muslim Kumyks and Nogais, Circassians, Persian merchants, and Tatars who had moved from Kazan, farmed, and alone paid the Russian poll tax. Most houses were thin timber frames with wattle walls plastered with clay and chopped straw; few were of logs or brick, because timber was hard to get.

The quarter of the Kazan Tatars … They moved here from Kazan, farm, and pay poll tax, which no other inhabitants on the Terek do. … Most [houses] are of thin timber framing with wattled walls, then plastered with clay and chopped straw.

Working translation

Original wording

Das Quartier der Kasanischen Tataren … Sie sind von Kasan hieher gezogen, treiben Ackerbau und zahlen Kopfgeld, welches von keinen andern Einwohnern am Terek geschieht. … Die mehresten sind von dünnen Fachwerk mit geflochtenen und denn mit Thon und gehackten Stroh beworfenen Wänden.

Johann Anton Güldenstädt (ed. P. S. Pallas, 1787)

About Kazan Tatars; Kumyks and Nogais

Fifty brick tombs at Madshar

Editorial contextAt the famous ruins of Madshar on the Kuma, Güldenstädt counted about fifty buildings of fired brick. He insists they were not houses but mausolea, each over an underground vault where the coffins stood. West of them were two ruined mosques, one still with its minaret. Of ordinary houses nothing was left, and he guesses they had been built of light timber frame and wattle, like local houses in his own day.

Madshar … contains … about 50 different buildings of brick … They are not dwelling houses but mausolea, all provided with an underground vault … Between the two [mosques] there may well have been dwellings … Presumably they were built in the manner still usual in these parts, of light timber framing and wattle.

Working translation

Original wording

Madshar … enthält … ohngefähr 50 verschiedne Gebäude von Baksteinen … Es sind nicht Wohnhäuser, sondern Mausoläen, alle mit einem unterirdischen Gewölbe versehen … Zwischen beiden mögen wohl Wohnungen gestanden haben … Vermuthlich waren sie nach der, noch izt in diesen Gegenden üblichen Bauart, von leichtem Fach- und Flechtwerk.

Johann Anton Güldenstädt (ed. P. S. Pallas, 1791)

About Nogai Tatars (as Güldenstädt judged the builders)

Keep in mind

Pallas notes on the previous page that Güldenstädt left only hasty, incomplete measurements of Madshar. Modern archaeology treats Majar as a Golden Horde trading town of the 1300s.

Eight-sided domed tombs the Russians called ‘Tatar mosques’

Editorial contextNear the new fortress of Nikitinskaja on the Konka, three old buildings stood at the mouth of the Sherebez stream, and Russians called them Tatarskije Metscheti, ‘Tatar mosques’. Güldenstädt judged them tombs of Tatar murzas who had camped here with their hordes, just like the buildings at Madshar. They were eight-sided with round domes, built of cut blocks of the local oolite stone, with doors facing south. Nearby lay the ruin of a larger building lined inside with green and black marble, probably a real mosque.

In their manner of building they are exactly like those at Madschary, and quite certainly nothing other than mausolea of some Tatar murzas who stayed with their hordes at these places convenient for camping. These buildings are eight-sided with a round dome, built of a fine oolite (roe-stone, meconites) cut into ashlar blocks, which is the local rock here.

Working translation

Original wording

Sie sind in der Bauart denen bei Madschary völlig gleich, und ganz gewis nichts anders als Mausoläen einiger tatarischen Mursen, die mit ihren Horden, an diesen zum campiren bequemen Oertern, sich aufgehalten haben. Diese Gebäude sind achtseitig mit einer runden Kuppel, aus einem zu Quadersteinen gehauenen feinen Roggenstein oder Meconites, der hier die Bergart ist, aufgeführt.

Johann Anton Güldenstädt (ed. P. S. Pallas, 1791)

About Tatar murzas (nobles), in Güldenstädt's view

Keep in mind

On the same page Güldenstädt ascribes the nearby kurgans (some with brick vaults) to Nogais as well, and Pallas adds a footnote: more probably the ancient Slavs of the region.

Show 9 more passages

A brick minaret at Tatartup, credited to Circassians

Editorial contextOn the upper Terek, at a place called Tartartup, Güldenstädt measured five ruins: a mosque of fieldstone and brick, this minaret, a second broken tower, and two small Greek churches, one still showing painted saints on its plaster. The minaret was a brick cylinder about 9 fathoms high with 75 steps inside. Despite the name, he concludes that a large Circassian village once stood here, its people partly Muslims and partly Greek Christians, and notes that Circassians still swore by Tartartup and used it as a sanctuary.

The second, then, is this tower built cylindrically of bricks, almost 9 fathoms high, for in its inner hollow, almost 3 feet wide, there are 75 steps … The whole tower is built of very hard bricks with very strongly binding lime

Working translation

Original wording

Das zweite ist also dieser von Ziegeln cylindrisch erbauter Thurm, der fast an 9 Faden hoch ist, denn es sind in seiner innern Hole, die fast an 3 Fuß weit ist, 75 Stuffen … Der ganze Thurm ist von sehr festen Ziegeln, mit sehr bindenden Kalke aufgeführet

Johann Anton Güldenstädt (ed. P. S. Pallas, 1787)

About Circassians (Kabardians), Muslim and Christian, in Güldenstädt's view

Keep in mind

The Circassian attribution is his reasoning; he says he learned no tradition about the people who built it. Modern scholars identify Tatartup with a Golden Horde town, and the minaret survived into the twentieth century.

A stone woman with a Nogai face

Editorial contextCrossing the steppe north of the Caucasus, Güldenstädt stopped at a crude, very stout female statue of shell conglomerate on a low mound, facing east, hands over the belly, four strings of beads round the neck and a peaked cap on the head. He thought the face and headdress Nogai, and a page later concluded that such statues were raised in memory of noble Nogais buried there. He met more of them all the way to the Donets and the Dnieper.

Here, to the right of the road, stood a shapeless female statue of ordinary human size but, in proportion, extraordinarily stout … four loosely hanging strings of corals surround the short neck; the head is very large and round, the face flat and broad, the nose quite flat … the physiognomy is Nogai

Working translation

Original wording

Hieselbst stand rechts am Wege eine unförmliche weibliche Statue, von gewöhnl. Menschengröße, aber in Proportion von ausserordentlicher Dikke … den kurzen Hals umgeben 4 schlafhängende Reihen Korallen; der Kopf ist sehr groß und rund, das Gesicht flach und breit, die Nase ganz flach … die Physionomie ist nagajisch

Johann Anton Güldenstädt (ed. P. S. Pallas, 1791)

About Nogai Tatars (as Güldenstädt judged the makers)

Keep in mind

His Nogai attribution rests on the look of the face and headdress. Modern archaeologists usually attribute these steppe ‘stone women’ (kamennye baby) to the medieval Cumans (Polovtsians).

A Kumyk prince's new stone house ‘in the Tatar taste’

Editorial contextKumyk houses and villages, Güldenstädt says, were like other Caucasian ones: light timber frames with woven willow. At Kostek, a large Kumyk village he visited in 1770, the hereditary prince (a Russian ally holding a captain's rank and pay) lived in an old two-storey log house that the Russians had built. As it was falling down, he built himself a new residence of quarried limestone ‘entirely in the Tatar taste’.

Their houses and villages are, like the other Caucasian ones described more fully, of light timber framing with woven willows. … The prince's dwelling is a Russian house, formerly built by the Russians, two storeys high, of log-work, but old and decayed, so he built himself a new dwelling of quarried limestone, entirely in the Tatar taste

Working translation

Original wording

Ihre Wohnungen und Dörfer sind, wie die übrigen mehr beschriebenen kaukasischen, von leichten Fachwerk mit geflochtenen Weiden. … Die Wohnung des Fürsten ist ein rußisches, auch ehedem von den Russen erbauetes zwei Stockwerke hohes Haus von Blokwerk, aber alt und verfallen, daher er sich eine neue Wohnung von gebrochenen Kalksteinen, ganz im tatarischen Geschmak bauete

Johann Anton Güldenstädt (ed. P. S. Pallas, 1787)

About Kumyk Tatars

Keep in mind

He does not say what the Tatar taste looked like.

Winter villages, summer yurts

Editorial contextIn the Georgian province of Somkhiti most inhabitants were Terekeme or Turkmen Tatars, Muslims speaking a Turkish dialect of Tatar. They lived mainly by herding: most stayed in their villages only in winter, and in summer lived out in yurts or earth huts that they moved a couple of times a year, though they also kept orchards and small rice fields. Güldenstädt thought this half-nomadic life, with their religion and language, made them unreliable subjects of the Georgian tsar.

By far the greatest part of its inhabitants consists of Terekeme or Turkmen Tatars, who speak the Tatar language in a Turkish dialect and are Mohammedans … the Tatars mostly apply themselves only to cattle-raising, and most of them live in their villages only in winter, but in summer they usually camp in the open in yurts or earth huts

Working translation

Original wording

Der bey weiten größeste Theil ihrer Einwohner besteht aus terekemenischen oder türkmenischen Tataren, die die tatarische Sprache in türkischer Mundart sprechen und Muhamedaner sind … die Tataren legen sich meistens blos auf die Viehzucht und die mehresten wohnen nur des Winters in ihren Dörfern, des Sommers aber stehen sie gewöhnlich im freyen in Jurten oder Erdhütten

Johann Anton Güldenstädt (ed. P. S. Pallas, 1787)

About Terekeme (Turkmen) Tatars

A camp of two hundred tents on the Yegorlyk

Editorial contextGüldenstädt camped beside a Nogai aul of about 200 kibitkas (felt tents). He admired their horses, broad in croup and chest with short thick necks, and their big greyish-white cattle, but noted that most sheep had died in the war's many marches. The herders had nothing to offer but butter and sour milk, which they eagerly traded for millet, since grain was short until the harvest.

We stood here beside an aul (camp) some 200 kibitkas (tents) strong, which is part of the Onokush aul and belongs to Yedisan. … One saw here among these Nogais a great herd of horses and cattle. … Apart from butter and sour milk nothing could be had from this herding people, which they eagerly brought to us

Working translation

Original wording

Wir standen hier neben einem an 200 Kibitken starken Aaul, der ein Theil vom Onokusch Aul ist und zu Jedissan gehört. … Man sahe hier bey diesen Nagaijern ein große Heerde von Pferden und Rindvieh. … Außer Butter und saurer Milch konnte man bey diesen Hirten Volke nichts haben, das sie uns begierig zubrachten

Johann Anton Güldenstädt (ed. P. S. Pallas, 1791)

About Yedisan Nogais (Onokush aul, chief Islam Murza)

Keep in mind

His remark on the same page that the Nogais thanked God and blessed the Russian empress for their new prosperity was written in an official report, just after Russia had brought these hordes under its control.

A Nogai murza's fresh grave of cut stone

Editorial contextOpposite the mouth of the Tashla, Güldenstädt found the new grave of a Yedisan Nogai murza buried the previous winter. Blocks of shell conglomerate, dug from the grave pit itself and squared, had been laid loose in a man-sized rectangle about three feet high. A second grave like it lay further on. It shows a living steppe people marking graves with cut stone, and on the same page he suggests the same rock could supply building blocks for the planned Russian colonies.

[the grave] of a Yedisan murza buried here last winter. Shell conglomerates cut into square blocks, taken from the pit of the grave itself, had been laid loose one on another, about 3 feet high, in an oblong rectangle proportioned to a man's size.

Working translation

Original wording

im vorigen Winter hier begrabenen Jedissanischen Mursa. Zu Quadersteinen gehauene Muschel-Conglomerate, die aus der Grube des Begräbnisses selbst genommen, waren in einen länglichten, der Menschengröße proportionirten Vierek, an 3 Fuß übereinander, loß gelegt.

Johann Anton Güldenstädt (ed. P. S. Pallas, 1791)

About Yedisan Nogais

Kalmyk monks who write from top to bottom

Editorial contextAt the Moravian colony of Sarepta, Güldenstädt questioned two Moravian Brethren who had spent the summer living with the Kalmyk horde to learn the language. They told him the clergy had smooth-shaven heads, could read, and wrote from top to bottom on silk paper with a pointed stick; they healed only by prayer and might demand a sick man's whole property as an offering to Burchan. Kalmyks dried strips of meat for winter and preferred animals that had died on their own. Güldenstädt keeps the Kalmyks separate from the Tatars throughout.

The clergy are recognised by their completely smooth-shaven heads. They also learn to read and write; they write from top to bottom, usually on silk paper with a pointed little stick. … As payment for their cure they often demand the whole property of the sick, not for themselves but as an offering to their Burchan, as they call their idol.

Working translation

Original wording

Die Geistlichen erkennet man an dem ganz glatt abgeschornen Kopf. Diese lernen auch lesen und schreiben; sie schreiben von oben nach unten, gemeiniglich auf Seidenpapier mit einem spitzigen Stökgen. … Zur Bezahlung ihrer Cur fordern sie öfters das ganze Vermögen von den Kranken, nicht für sich, sondern zum Opfer für ihren Burchan, so nennen sie ihren Gözen.

Johann Anton Güldenstädt (ed. P. S. Pallas, 1787), reporting what Moravian missionaries told him

About Kalmyks (not called Tatars by Güldenstädt)

Keep in mind

Secondhand from missionaries hoping to convert the Kalmyks. Pallas's footnote on the previous page corrects the ‘white’ and ‘black’ division: white meant families of princely blood, black the commoners.

Three Tatar nations, one language

Editorial contextIn his closing description of the Caucasus, Güldenstädt sorts the Tatars of the eastern Caucasus into three peoples: Kumyks (settled farmers, rice and cotton growers and fishermen), Terekeme or Turkmen Tatars (whose dialect is almost Ottoman Turkish), and Nogais (tent-dwelling nomads). All speak Tatar, one of the main languages of the Caucasus, in dialects that are mutually intelligible at a pinch. For him ‘Tatar’ is a label for Turkic speakers, and he compares their dialects with Turkish as Italian, Spanish and Portuguese compare with each other.

In the eastern Caucasus one finds three kinds of Tatar peoples: 1. the Kumyk, 2. the Terekeme or Turkmen, and 3. the Nogai Tatars. … The similarity of the Turkish, Terekeme, Kumyk and Nogai-Tatar dialects seems to me comparable to the similarity between the Italian, Spanish and Portuguese languages.

Working translation

Original wording

Im ostlichen Kaukasus trift man dreyerley tatarische Völker an, 1 Die Kumükischen. 2. Terekemenischen oder Truchmenischen und 3. Die Nogaischen Tataren. … Mir scheint die Aehnlichkeit des türkischen, des terekemenischen, kumükischen und nogayisch-tatarischen Dialekts mit der Aehnlichkeit zwischen der italienischen, spanischen und portugisischen Sprache vergleichbar.

Johann Anton Güldenstädt (ed. P. S. Pallas, 1787)

About Kumyk, Terekeme (Turkmen) and Nogai Tatars

The Hill of the White Stallion and the Khan's Well

Editorial contextDescribing a caravan road from Chorny Yar on the Volga to Madshar, day by day, Güldenstädt passes on the names of its waymarks. One big hill was called Kok Aigir, ‘White Stallion’, because a Tatar khan, overjoyed at the birth of a son, had a white stallion slaughtered there. The next stage reached the Khan's Well, covered by a great stone pierced with holes through which water was drawn, and ringed by stone statues like those he had seen between Mozdok and Cherkassk. He gives this as a route report, not as a journey of his own.

On the 9th day one arrives early at a large hill, called in Tatar Kok Aigir, that is, White Stallion, in memory of the event when a Tatar khan, for joy at the birth of a son, had a white stallion slaughtered here … Chan Schokrak, that is, the Khan's Well, which is covered with a large stone in which various holes are cut, through which the water is drawn up.

Working translation

Original wording

Am 9ten Tage kommt man zeitig an einen großen Hügel, genannt tatar. Kok Aigir d. i. Schimmel-Hengst, zum Andenken der Begebenheit, da ein tatarischer Chan aus Freude über die Geburt eines Sohnes hieselbst ein Schimmel-Hengst schlachten ließ … Chan Schokrak d. i. Chansbrunnen, der mit einem großen Stein bedekt ist, in den verschiedene Löcher gehauen, durch die das Wasser heraufgezogen wird.

Johann Anton Güldenstädt (ed. P. S. Pallas, 1791)

About Tatars (an unnamed khan); Kalmyks

Keep in mind

A place-name story passed on by informants; no khan or date is named.

The fine print

How we know

firsthand The author saw the places or people described.

firsthand observation 1768-1775 (Don, Volga, Astrakhan, Terek, Kabarda, Ossetia, Georgia, Kuban, Crimea approaches); Pallas edited the incomplete manuscripts

Research notes
  • Posthumous, edited by Pallas; Klaproth's 1815 re-edition Reisen nach Georgien und Imerethi (IA 10430666bsb) rearranges the material.

Why it matters

Foundational Academy survey of the Caucasus and the Don-Volga-Terek steppe, with Kalmyk and Nogai observations and the first comparative Caucasian vocabularies (later exploited by Klaproth, who was accused of plagiarizing it).

Places named

Don; lower Volga; Astrakhan; Terek; Kabarda; Ossetia; Georgia; Imereti; Kuban; Azov

Peoples named

Western Mongols (Oirat, Dzungar, Kalmyk)
Golden Horde and its Tatar successor khanates
Turkic and Central Asian peoples and states
Rus, Muscovy and the Russian Empire

Kalmyks; Nogais; Kumyks; Kabardians; Ossetes; Chechens; Georgians; Don Cossacks; Crimean Tatars (Kuban)

Keep exploring