Written source · German

Samuel Gmelin's journey through southern Russia and Persia

A young German academician's journals of 1768 to 1774 from the Don, the lower Volga and Astrakhan to the Caspian shores of Persia, ending with his death as a captive in Dagestan.

Full title Journey through Russia to Investigate the Three Realms of Nature, 4 parts (part 3: journey through northern Persia 1770-1772; part 4: second Persian journey and death in Dagestan captivity, ed. Pallas 1784)

Samuel Gottlieb Gmelin

Read the 14 passagesOpen the original book

Samuel Gottlieb Gmelin, a Tübingen-trained physician and botanist of the St Petersburg Academy, travelled from 1768 down the Don, then to Tsaritsyn and Astrakhan (1769), along the Caspian into northern Persia (1770 to 1772), up the Volga and across the Kuma steppe (1772), and again to Persia in 1773, dying in 1774 as a prisoner of the Kaitag ruler in Dagestan. His four parts mix natural history with a long history and description of Astrakhan and its Tatars, and visits to the ruined Golden Horde sites of Tsarev, Selitrennoe and Madzhari. Part 4 (1784) was put together by Pallas from Gmelin's papers and reports. The corpus holds all four parts in Bavarian State Library scans (St Petersburg, 1770 to 1784).

How they knew
Part eyewitness
Who “Tartar” means here
Mainly the Muslim Tatars of Astrakhan (settled 'Yurt' Tatars, village Tatars and a few nomadic groups), plus Nogais, Kazan Tatars living in Astrakhan, and 'Tatar' as a label for Turkic-speaking Muslims of the Caucasus and the Caspian (he calls the Turkmens 'true Tatars' by language). The khans of the Golden Horde appear as 'kings of Great Tartary'.
Why read it
It is one of the fullest 18th-century eyewitness descriptions of the brick ruins of the Golden Horde capitals on the Akhtuba and the Kuma, with honest puzzling over who built them, alongside a detailed portrait of Astrakhan Tatar homes, dress and marriage.
Watch out
Gmelin wrote fast and part 4 was assembled after his death by Pallas, whose footnotes sometimes correct him. The history of Astrakhan is compiled from Russian records, and the Fraktur scans cut off words at the page edges, so only legible lines are quoted.

What it says: 14 passages

Tsarev: the ruined seat of the 'King of Great Tartary'

Editorial contextSome forty versts below the silk plantation near Tsaritsyn, on the edge of the steppe by the Akhtuba, Gmelin found the ruins of 'an ancient city' that had been the seat of Achmet, 'King of Great Tartary'. He describes many dug-over mounds built not of earth but of bricks covered with earth, traces of courtyards and walls, a 'house of a certain queen', and a high hill everyone took for the royal palace, all stretching 38 versts along the steppe. He adds that history says the place was taken under Grand Prince Ivan Vasilievich and razed a few years later by the Nogais, and that local people still carry off its bricks to build their houses and sometimes find small gold or silver coins, rings and earrings.

there are the remains of a very ancient city, which was the seat of Achmet, King of Great Tartary, and which bear witness to how changeable human fortunes are … The Russians call these remains Tsarevy [pody], or Royal Meadows.

Working translation

Original wording

befinden sich die Ueberbleibsel einer uralten Stadt, welche der Sitz des Königes der großen Tatarey Achmets war, und die ein Zeugniß … wie wandelbar die Umstände der Menschen seyen … Die Russen nennen diese Ueberbleibsel Zarewei oder Königliche Wiesen.

Samuel Gottlieb Gmelin

About Golden Horde Tatars (the 'Great Tartary' of Khan Achmet)

Keep in mind

The right edge of these pages is cut off in the scan. The historical dating is Gmelin's reading of Russian history, not something he found on site.

CitiesAstrakhan1554 (events); written about 1770

Astrakhan falls to the Russians without bloodshed

Editorial contextIn his history of Astrakhan, drawn from Russian records, Gmelin tells how the Russian flotilla sailing down the Volga halted at the ruins of Tsarevy Pody, 'which the Russians also call Bolshoi Sarai' (Great Sarai), before sailing on to Astrakhan. The few inhabitants opened the gates and fled, and the city passed to the Russians without bloodshed, while Prince Vyazemsky stormed the camp of the khan 'Emchurtschey' (Yamgurchi) and found many cannon once carried off from Russia. The khan had already sent his treasure and his harem out to sea on ships and fled.

at the famous remains, already described by me, of the Tatar city of Tsarevy Pody, which the Russians also usually call Bolshoi Sarai, … The few inhabitants, as soon as they saw the Russians arrive, opened the gates and fled into known hiding places. In the midst of their flight, however, most fell into the hands of the Christians, and so the city passed to the latter without any bloodshed.

Working translation

Original wording

bey … den von mir schon beschriebenen berühmten Ueberbleibseln der Tatarischen Stadt Zarewpody, welche die Rußen auch sonsten Bolschoi Saray zu nennen pflegen, … Die wenigen Innwohner, so bald sie die Ankunft der Rußen erblickten, öfneten die Thore, und flohen in bekannte Schlupfwinkel. Mitten in ihrer Flucht aber fielen die meiste in die Hände der Christen, und die Stadt übergieng daher an die letztere ohne alles Blutvergießen.

Samuel Gottlieb Gmelin (history compiled from Russian sources)

About Astrakhan Tatars under Khan Yamgurchi

Keep in mind

Second-hand history written two centuries after the event, from the Russian side.

Blue-glazed stone at Selitrennoe: who taught the Tatars enamel?

Editorial contextAt the saltpetre works of Selitrennoi Gorodok, Gmelin walked over the ruins of a Tatar town some 3 versts long, which the Tatars called Dschigit-Adschi after a young pilgrim said to have built it. He found heaps of bricks, old masonry and the remains of a large vaulted building 10 by 5 fathoms whose stones were skilfully cut, glazed blue and inlaid with small coloured stones, and he asks who could have taught the old Tatars enamelling. Human bones lay everywhere from treasure-digging, which had turned up gold and silver objects, earrings, rings, coins and seals.

The old remains themselves consist of … the wreckage of a sizeable building 10 fathoms long and 5 fathoms wide, with cavities or vaults. Many stones of the ruined building are not only artfully cut but also glazed blue, and partly inlaid very painstakingly and skilfully with other smaller coloured stones. Who, one wonders, taught the old Tatars to enamel with smalt?

Working translation

Original wording

Die alten Ueberbleibsel selbst bestehen in … Trümmern von einem ansehnlichen Gebäude welches 10 Faden lang und 5 Faden breit ist und Höhlen oder Gewölber hat. Viele Steine der Trümmer des Gebäudes sind nicht nur künstlich gehauen, sondern auch blau glasiret und theils mit andern kleinern, gefärbten Steinen sehr mühsam und geschikt ausgelegt. Wer hat wohl den alten Tataren das Emailliren mit Smalte gelehret?

Samuel Gottlieb Gmelin (part 4, compiled by P. S. Pallas, 1784)

About 'The old Tatars' (the town the Tatars call Dschigit-Adschi)

Keep in mind

Pallas, as editor, calls Gmelin's account of the name 'inaccurate' and refers readers to his own description of the site. The question about enamel is Gmelin's rhetorical doubt, not an answer.

Madzhari: domed brick houses with glazed tiles

Editorial contextGmelin rode up the Kuma to the ruins of Madzhari, which he calls 'the splendid Scythian city', a raised square 5 versts across. The best-kept buildings stood round the edge, like the fortified houses of great men. They were square, eight-sided or round, 4 to 9 fathoms high, with pyramid-shaped domes reached by narrow hidden stairs in the walls, vaulted cellar passages, and inlaid tiles glazed blue, green and red in triangles, rhombs, crosses and hearts, just as at Selitrennoe. He notes that the bricks were exactly like those the Astrakhan Tatars still made, and that clay, not lime, was mostly used as mortar.

The bricks are such as the Astrakhan Tatars still make today, namely broader and thicker than our usual bricks. For the masonry, mortar of lime and sand is used only here and there, mostly plain clay; but almost all the rooms are plastered inside with lime, smoothed and whitewashed. … The shape of the buildings still standing is square, octagonal or round.

Working translation

Original wording

Die Ziegel sind so, wie sie die Astrachanischen Tataren noch jetzo machen, nemlich breiter und dicker als unsere gewöhnlichen Backsteine. Zum Mauern ist nur hie und da Mörtel von Kalk und Sand, meistens bloßer Thon gebraucht; fast alle Zimmer aber sind inwendig mit Kalk beworfen, geebnet und übertüncht. … Die Gestalt der noch erhaltenen Gebäude ist viereckig, achteckig oder rund.

Samuel Gottlieb Gmelin (part 4, compiled by P. S. Pallas, 1784)

About The unknown builders of Madzhari (Gmelin thinks a 'Scythian' tribe, not Tatars)

Show 10 more passages

Tatar tents that travel whole on high-wheeled carts

Editorial contextIn the Tatar villages around Astrakhan, the winter houses were wretched wooden huts without roofs, with yards and stalls fenced with reeds. In summer the Tatars moved into kibitkas (felt tents) smaller than Kalmyk ones, so low one could barely stand up, with a round hole at the top for light and smoke. Their wooden lattice was made so tight that it could never be taken apart: to move, the felt was lifted off and the whole frame loaded onto an arba, a two-wheeled cart with very tall, noisy wheels, which a single person could pull.

The Tatars live in them [the wooden houses] only in winter, and over the summer they move into their kibitkas. These are of quite a different kind from the Kalmyk ones, first of all much smaller … and the woodwork forming their lattice is made so tight that it would be impossible to take such a tent apart and put it up again. Once it is fitted together, so it must stay

Working translation

Original wording

Die Tataren wohnen auch nur im Winter darinnen, und den Sommer über begeben sie sich in ihre Kibitken. Diese sind von einer ganz andern Art als die Kalmückische, und fürs erste weit kleiner … Dann auch das ihr Gegitter ausmachende Holzwerk so dichte verfertiget, daß es eine Unmöglichkeit wäre ein solches Zelt aus einander zu trennen und wieder aufzusetzen. Wie es einmal zusammen gefüget ist, so muß es bleiben

Samuel Gottlieb Gmelin

About Astrakhan Tatars

Stone figures 'in Tatar shape' on the Don mounds

Editorial contextNear the Cossack settlement of Babskaya on the Don, Gmelin saw two stone statues standing on burial mounds, one of a man and one of a woman 'in Tatar shape', so weathered that little more could be made out than that they were carved from gypsum stone. He was told many more stood between there and Bakhmut, and that in such mounds the dead lay facing east, men with swords and gold and silver rings, though Cossack treasure-hunters had already emptied most of them.

Not far from the Babskaya stanitsa I saw on two kurgans two statues, one of which shows a man and the other a woman in Tatar shape. … In the kurgans on which such memorial columns stand, the bones of the people buried inside are always found laid towards the east

Working translation

Original wording

Ohnweit der Staniza Babskaja sahe ich auf zwei Kurganen zwei Statuen davon die eine einer Manns- und di … eine Weibs-Person in Tatarischer Gestalt vorstellt. … In den Kurganen, auf welchen solche Ehren-Säulen stehen, findet man die Knochen der darinnen begrabenen Menschen allezeit nach Morgen zu gelegt

Samuel Gottlieb Gmelin

About Tatars (as Gmelin reads the statues and graves)

Keep in mind

The right edge of the page is cut off in the scan. 'Tatar shape' is Gmelin's impression; such steppe statues were made by several earlier peoples.

Nose rings of gold and pearls

Editorial contextGmelin describes how Astrakhan Tatar women braided their hair down the back, ending for girls in a long black silk tassel threaded with silver and for married women in a ribbon. Their finery included earrings and gold or silver rings, sometimes set with pearls or gems, worn in the nostrils. With a touch of irony he argues that if Europeans find it natural to pierce ears, Tatar women may fairly do the same to their noses. On the same page he describes the Sunni Tatars praying together in the open field at the end of Ramadan, kneeling and rising in step 'like a company of soldiers at drill'.

Finally, Tatar women's finery includes earrings and silver and gold rings, sometimes adorned with pearls or precious stones, which are worn in the nostrils. If in Europe it does not seem unnatural to mutilate the ears for earrings, one may fairly grant Tatar ladies the pleasure of performing a similar operation on their noses.

Working translation

Original wording

Endlich gehören zu dem tatarischen Weiber-Putz die Ohrgehänge und die silberne und goldene manchmalen mit Perlen oder Edelgesteinen ausgezierte Ringe, welche in den Nasen-Löchern getragen werden. Wann es in Europa nicht unnatürlich läßt, durch die Ohr-Gehänge die Ohren zu verstümmeln, so kann man dem tatarischen Frauenzimmer das Vergnügen mit Recht gönnen eine ähnliche Operation mit den Nasen vorzunehmen.

Samuel Gottlieb Gmelin

About Astrakhan Tatar women

Two kinds of Tatar marriage

Editorial contextGmelin explains that at a Tatar betrothal the bride's side names a fine, from fifty to a hundred roubles, that the groom must pay if he mistreats his wife, withholds food and clothing, or is caught in adultery. In a footnote he adds that there are two ways of marrying. In one, the wife is kept for life in the women's quarters, may not even look out of the window and does no housework, sitting 'like a statue with folded hands'. In the other she may go where she likes and appear in public, but must run the household.

The Tatars marry their wives in two ways. In the one, the wives are confined and so given over to the power of their husbands that they must stay for life in the women's quarters assigned to them and are not allowed to look out of the window … In the other, Tatar wives have the freedom to go wherever they like and to appear in public without fear.

Working translation

Original wording

Die Tataren verheurathen sich mit ihren Weibern auf eine zweyfache Art. Bey der einen werden die letztern eingeschränkt, und so der Gewalt der Männer übergeben, daß sie Lebenslang in dem ihnen angewiesenen Weiber-Behältniß verbleiben müßen, nicht Erlaubniß haben aus dem Fenster zu sehen … Bey der andern Art haben die tatarische Weiber die Freyheit überall hinzugehen, wo sie wollen, und ohngescheut in dem Publiko zu erscheinen.

Samuel Gottlieb Gmelin (footnote)

About Astrakhan Tatars

Were the builders of Madzhari Tatars? Gmelin guesses 'Scythians'

Editorial contextGmelin admits he knows too little medieval history to say who lived at Madzhari. He reports that in 1735, when Tatars still held the district, the Astrakhan governor Tatishchev sent an armed party to search the ruins and received a writing on blue, very strong paper and some coins, which Tatishchev took for 'Scythian'. Gmelin guesses a 'Scythian tribe called Madshar' lived there and mentions a claim that the Ingush of the Caucasus descend from them. On the previous page he says the Tatar grave mounds around the site probably did not belong to Madzhari, since the Madzharians 'were probably not Tatars'.

The former Astrakhan governor Tatishchev sent some people in 1735, when the Tatars still held this district, … to investigate the Madzhari ruins … They brought him a writing on blue, very strong paper and various coins, which this historian took for Scythian. … Presumably a Scythian tribe called Madshar lived here

Working translation

Original wording

Der ehemalige Astrachanische Gouverneur von Tatistschew schickte im Jahr 1735, als die Tataren diese Gegend noch inne hatten, einige Leute … zur Untersuchung der Madsharischen Ruinen … Man brachte ihn eine Schrift auf blauen, sehr festen Papier, und verschiedene Münzen, welches dieser Geschichtsforscher für Scytische hielt. … Vermuthlich wohnte hier ein Scythischer Stamm der Madshar hieß

Samuel Gottlieb Gmelin (part 4, compiled by P. S. Pallas, 1784)

About A supposed 'Scythian tribe called Madshar'

Keep in mind

An open guess by Gmelin. Modern archaeology treats Madzhari as a Golden Horde trading town, so 'Scythian' here reflects 18th-century uncertainty.

The nameAstrakhan1769 to 1770

Yurt Tatars, village Tatars and wandering Tatars

Editorial contextGmelin explains the Russian names for the Astrakhan Tatars. They were first called 'Yasak Tatars' because after the conquest of the Astrakhan kingdom the tsar took into service all who had deserted the khan and the murzas, and laid a tribute (yasak) on them. They were divided into settled 'Yurt' Tatars and wandering ones, with 'Aul' Tatars for those living in villages, since aul means village in Tatar. He adds that most of the wandering Tatars had joined the Kalmyks or gone off to the Crimea, the Kuban, the Kazakhs and the Bashkirs.

They were at first called Yasak Tatars, … because after taking the kingdom of Astrakhan the tsar took into service at Astrakhan all who had deserted the khan, the murzas and the black [common] Tatars, and laid on them a yasak, or tribute. They are conveniently divided into Yurt and Kochevye [nomadic] Tatars. The former are settled Tatars, the latter move about in hordes … Aul means a village in the Tatar language.

Working translation

Original wording

Jassaschnije Tataren wurden sie anfänglich, … weil der Zaar … nach der Einnahme des Astrachanischen Königreichs alle von dem Chan den Mursas und schwarzen Tataren … abgefallene zu Astrachan in Diensten genommen und mit einem Jassak oder mit einem Tribut belegt hat. Man theilt sie füglich in die Jurtowische und in die Kotschewnyesche ein. Jene sind seßhafte Tataren, diese ziehen Hordenweise … Aul bedeutet in der Tatarischen Sprache ein Dorf.

Samuel Gottlieb Gmelin

About Astrakhan Tatars

Keep in mind

Marginal headings break into the OCR lines here and are left out with ellipses.

Turkmens: 'true Tatars' by language and face

Editorial contextOn his second Persian voyage, Gmelin landed among the Turkmens of the Mangyshlak coast. He calls them 'true Tatars' by their language and their faces, and notes that as nomads they had no mosques and prayed in their felt tents, which were like Kalmyk ones but rounder on top. A few pages earlier he records their own origin story, that their Abdal tribe descends from a son born to a woman visited by 'a man from the sun'.

But with their wandering way of life they cannot have proper mosques or temples; instead they hold their services in their felt tents, so that some mullahs or priests are always travelling about among them … By their language they are true Tatars, and by their features too.

Working translation

Original wording

Nur können sie bey ihrer wandernden Lebensart keine eigentliche Medscheten oder Tempel haben, sondern sie verrichten den Gottesdienst in ihren Filz-Zelten, daher beständig einige Mulla oder Priester unter ihnen herum ziehen … Nach der Sprache sind sie wahre Tataren, nach der Gesichts-Bildung auch.

Samuel Gottlieb Gmelin (part 4, compiled by P. S. Pallas, 1784)

About Turkmens of Mangyshlak, east Caspian coast

Keep in mind

'Tatar' here is a language label for a Turkic people, not a claim of shared history.

The nameVoronezh region (saltpetre works)April 1769

'Kurgan': the grave of a Tatar prince

Editorial contextVisiting saltpetre works in the black-earth country near Voronezh, Gmelin found the heaps of leached earth called 'saltpetre kurgans' by the Ukrainians. He explains that the word kurgan means the burial of a Tatar prince, over whom earth five or six fathoms high was heaped as a sign of his presence, and promises to open some real princely kurgans when he can. It shows how, in 1760s Russia, the great steppe mounds were all assumed to be Tatar graves.

and indeed the Little Russians [Ukrainians] have given them the name saltpetre kurgans, a word that means the burial of a Tatar prince, over which the earth [is heaped] five or six fathoms high as a sign of his presence …

Working translation

Original wording

in der That haben ihnen auch die Maloroßianer die Benennung, Salpeter-Kurganen gegeben, ein Wort, welches so viel als das Begräbniß eines Tatarischen Fürsten bedeutet, auf dem die Erde fünf oder sechs Faden hoch zum Zeichen seiner Gegenwart …

Samuel Gottlieb Gmelin

About Ukrainian saltpetre workers, about old Tatar burial mounds

Keep in mind

The idea that every kurgan is a Tatar prince's grave is the folk explanation of the time; many steppe mounds are far older.

The Sugar Lake and the khan's clever wife

Editorial contextBeside the ruined 'queen's house' at Tsarev lies a lake the Tatars call the Sugar Lake, and Gmelin retells their story. A khan (his name is cut off in the scan) was persuaded to put aside his beautiful low-born wife; she outwitted him by carrying him, drunk after a feast, into her own chamber, so he sent her to live in a house by this lake. Knowing he loved falconry, she threw sugar into the lake every day to draw swans and geese, so the khan came daily to hunt and rest with her until death. Gmelin notes drily that the lake really is sweeter than other waters, which may be how the tale began.

so every day she threw a great quantity of sugar into the lake by the house, and so drew a great number of swans and geese, … so that he appeared daily at the lake and rested with the queen after the hunt … It is indeed true that this lake has sweeter water than other rivers

Working translation

Original wording

so warf dieselbe alle Tage eine große Menge Zucker in den angeführten bey dem Haus befindlichen See, und lockte dadurch eine große Anzahl von Schwanen und Gänsen herbey, … daß er bey dem See täglich erschien, nach geendigter Jagd bey der Königin ausruhte … Es ist würklich an dem, daß ermeldeter See ein süßeres Waßer bey sich führet, als andere Flüße

Samuel Gottlieb Gmelin, retelling a Tatar story

About Tatars (a tale about a khan of 'Great Tartary')

Keep in mind

A local Tatar legend, told as such.

Khan Janibek's giant cooking pot

Editorial contextThe buildings of the Russian saltpetre works at Selitrennoe, Gmelin notes, were mostly built from the rubble of the Tatar ruins. Among the old boiling kettles of the works lay one so huge that the local Tatars told a tale about it: that it was a relic of their past, in which Khan Janibek had twelve oxen cooked at once for his feasts. Gmelin says flatly that it is a Crown saltpetre kettle.

[the dwellings of] some people living here are mostly built from Tatar rubble … In the boiling works there are still furnaces and kettles. Among the latter lies one … The Tatars tell a fable that it is a Tatar relic and that Khan Janibek had 12 oxen cooked in it at once at his feasts. But it is certainly a saltpetre kettle belonging to the Crown.

Working translation

Original wording

einige hier wohnenden Leute, sind meistens von tatarischen Trümmern erbauet … In der Siederey sind noch Oefen und Keßel. Unter letztern liegt einer … Die Tataren fabeln, daß er ein tatarisch Ueberbleibsel sey und daß Chan Dschanibek in demselben, bey seinen Schmausen, 12 Ochsen zugleich kochen laßen. Es ist aber gewiß ein der Krone gehöriger Salpeter-Keßel.

Samuel Gottlieb Gmelin (part 4, compiled by P. S. Pallas, 1784)

About Tatars of the lower Volga

Keep in mind

A local legend that Gmelin rejects on the spot.

The fine print

How we know

firsthand The author saw the places or people described.

firsthand observation: Astrakhan, lower Volga, Caspian coasts, Gilan and Mazandaran, Dagestan; Gmelin died in captivity of the Kaitag usmi in 1774; part 4 edited from papers by Pallas

Research notes

Why it matters

Primary eyewitness for the Caspian shores, the Astrakhan Kalmyks and Tatars, the Turkmen coast and Dagestan in 1769-1774, the southwestern margin of the steppe world; also a case of a European captive among Caucasian rulers.

Places named

Don; lower Volga; Astrakhan; Caspian Sea; Gilan; Mazandaran; Dagestan; Terek

Peoples named

Western Mongols (Oirat, Dzungar, Kalmyk)
Golden Horde and its Tatar successor khanates
Turkic and Central Asian peoples and states
Persian, Arab, Ottoman and other Islamic states
Peoples of the Caucasus
Rus, Muscovy and the Russian Empire

Kalmyks; Astrakhan Tatars; Nogais; Turkmens of the eastern Caspian; Persia (Zand period); Dagestani polities (Kaitag, Derbent, Tarku); Don Cossacks

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