Written source · German

Lepekhin's journal of the Volga and Ural journey

A Russian academician's day-by-day journal of 1768 to 1770, through Tatar, Chuvash, Mordvin, Kalmyk and Bashkir country on the Volga and in the southern Urals.

Full title Journal of the Journey through Various Provinces of the Russian Empire (German translation of Dnevnye zapiski, vols 1-2 covering 1768-1769 and 1770)

Дневные записки путешествия ... по разным провинциям Российского государства

Ivan Lepekhin

Read the 14 passagesOpen the original book

Ivan Lepekhin, a physician and adjunct of the St Petersburg Academy of Sciences, led one of the Academy's great expeditions. In 1768 he travelled from Moscow by Arzamas, Alatyr and Simbirsk to the Cheremshan river, in 1769 down the Volga past Saratov and Tsaritsyn to the Kalmyk steppe and Guryev on the Caspian, and in 1770 into Bashkiria and the Urals. Between plants, minerals and insects he describes Tatar villages, houses, mosques and weddings, Kalmyk law and religion, Bashkir herding, and the ruins of old Tatar towns: Bulgary (surveyed by a student of his party, with translated gravestones), Uvek near Saratov and Tsarev. The corpus copy is the German translation by Hase, volumes 1 (1774) and 2 (1775), with the translator's footnotes marked 'Ueb.'.

How they knew
Eyewitness
Who “Tartar” means here
Mostly the Muslim Turkic Tatars of the middle Volga (Kazan Tatars, including the 'Mountain Tatars' of the Volga's high right bank and tribute-paying Tatars in Bashkiria), and the medieval builders of Bulgary and Uvek, which he calls old Tatar towns. He keeps Kalmyks, Bashkirs, Chuvash and Mordvins apart, and calls the steppe raiders from the Kuban 'Kuban Tatars'.
Why read it
It shows Volga Tatars as settled farmers with white-walled houses, village mosques and schools, and it records how people in the 1760s explained the ruins, sunken cellars and giant bones they found along the Volga.
Watch out
This is a German translation of a Russian original, with the translator's notes mixed in. The Fraktur scan is damaged on several key pages (Tsarev, the Uvek coins, the opened mound), so only legible lines are quoted, and the Bulgary survey was made by a student of Lepekhin's party rather than by Lepekhin himself.

What it says: 14 passages

CitiesBolgar (Bulgary), TatarstanDecember 1768 (survey by Lepekhin's student)

Who destroyed Bulgary? Two stories

Editorial contextThe ruins of Bulgary on the Volga below Kazan were visited and measured by a student of Lepekhin's party, whose description the journal prints. It calls Bulgary 'an old Tatar town', turned by war from a famous city into a wretched village inside an earth rampart a whole mile round. The account notes that Russian writers and Tatar historians disagree about who destroyed it: the Tatars blame 'the Tatar robber Aisak Timir' (probably Aksak Timur, 'Lame Timur', that is Tamerlane), the Russians a Russian prince Yuri Dmitrievich, and the writer declines to decide.

As for the disagreement between the accounts of our writers and of the Tatar historians about the destroyer of Bulgary (for the latter ascribe its downfall to the Tatar robber Aisak Timir, the former to the [Russian] prince Yuri Dmitrievich), I can decide nothing here, since I do not know which of them is most to be believed.

Working translation

Original wording

Was inzwischen die Verschiedenheit den Erzählungen unserer Schriftsteller und der tatarischen Geschichtschreiber, in Ansehung des Zerstörers von Bulgary, anlangt; (denn diese schreiben ihren Untergang dem tatarischen Räuber Aisak Timir, jene aber dem … Fürsten Jurjew Dmitrjewitsch' zu): so kann ich hier nichts entscheiden, indem ich nicht weiß, wem man von ihnen am meisten glauben soll.

Lepekhin's journal, printing the description by a student of his party (German translation, 1774)

About Volga Bulgars and Tatars (the old town Lepekhin calls Tatar)

Keep in mind

The student's name is garbled in the scan. The two destroyer stories are reported from written histories, not checked.

Uvek: a Tatar town known only from coins and trinkets

Editorial contextNine versts from Saratov, Lepekhin visited Uvek, the site of an old Tatar settlement (he heads the page 'a Tatar gorodishche', or town site). He says it belonged to the Tatars because silver and copper Tatar coins, rings, earrings and copper vessels are found there, but that no records say who destroyed it or when. He also thought the wild hemp growing round about had been sown long ago by the Tatars who once lived there.

That this place belonged to the Tatars is proved by the silver as well as copper Tatar coins and other small things found there, for example rings, earrings, copper vessels and the like. By whom and when the place was destroyed cannot be said, for complete lack of records.

Working translation

Original wording

Daß dieser Ort den Tatarn gehört habe, beweisen … die sowohl silbernen, als kupfernen, tatarischen Münzen und andere Kleinigkeiten, welche man daselbst antrift, z. E. Ringe, Ohrengehänge, kupferne Geschirre und dergleichen. Von wem und wenn der Platz zerstöret worden, läßt sich wegen gänzlichen Mangels an Nachrichten nicht sagen.

Ivan Lepekhin (German translation, 1774)

About Tatars (the former inhabitants of a Golden Horde town site)

Keep in mind

The next page, where he lists the dates on the coins he kept, is too damaged in the scan to quote.

White rooms and windows made of ox bladder

Editorial contextLepekhin compares the timber farmhouses of three peoples living side by side. The Chuvash and Mordvins have 'black' rooms (smoke-filled, without a proper chimney), but the Tatars have 'white' rooms with well-built stoves, and real windows rather than sliding shutters. Since glass was scarce, the Tatars made their window panes from ox bladder, or near the Volga from the skin of catfish or beluga sturgeon. On the same page he praises Tatar feather beds, clean dishes and hospitality.

The rooms of the Chuvash and Mordvins are black, but those of the Tatars are white, and their stoves are also built with a particular convenience. … the Tatars, however, have proper windows, and because glass is lacking in this country they make the panes of ox bladder, and in the districts nearest the Volga of the skin of the catfish or the beluga sturgeon.

Working translation

Original wording

Die Stuben sind bey den Tschuwaschen und Morduanen schwarz, bey den Tatarn aber weis, deren Oefen zugleich mit einer besondern Bequemlichkeit angelegt sind. … bey den Tatarn aber sind ordentliche Fenster, und weil es hier zu Lande an Glas fehlt, machen sie die Scheiben aus Rindsblase, in den zunächst an der Wolga liegenden Gegenden aber, aus der Haut vom Wels, oder vom Hausen.

Ivan Lepekhin (German translation, 1774)

About Volga Tatars, compared with Chuvash and Mordvin villagers

BuildingsBolgar (Bulgary), TatarstanDecember 1768 (survey by Lepekhin's student)

Old stone buildings of Bulgary, one turned into a church

Editorial contextThe survey lists 44 ruined structures inside and around Bulgary's rampart, most of them stone houses measured in fathoms, plus towers and two 'columns' (round buildings, one about 12 fathoms round and as high). Inside the Russian monastery that had grown up on the site, one old stone building had been consecrated as a church of St Nicholas the Wonderworker, and four big round towers still stood. The survey credits the rampart to the town's 'former inhabitants' and treats all of it as the remains of an old Tatar town.

In the monastery the following old buildings are found: 29) A stone house which has been consecrated as a church in honour of St Nicholas the Wonderworker, … and three and a half fathoms high. Further, four large towers of the following measurements: 30) The first is seven and a half fathoms round and 2 fathoms high.

Working translation

Original wording

In dem Kloster finden sich an alten Gebäuden: 29) Ein steinernes Haus, so zu einer Kirche, zu Ehren des h. Nikol Wunderthäters, geweihet worden, … und drey und einen halben Faden hoch. Ferner vier große Thürme, von folgendem Maas: 30) Der erste hat 7 und einen halben Faden im Umkreis, 2 Faden in der Höhe.

Lepekhin's journal, printing the description by a student of his party (German translation, 1774)

About Volga Bulgars and Tatars (the 'former inhabitants' of the town)

Keep in mind

Parts of this page are unreadable in the scan; only the clear lines are quoted.

Show 10 more passages

Limestone walls of a Mountain Tatar settlement

Editorial contextThe Russian village of Kostychi, Lepekhin was told, had once belonged to the 'Mountain Tatars' of the Volga. Three ruined walls of the Tatar settlement still stood, with the steep Volga bank serving as protection on the south side. He notes they were built of limestone quarried on the Volga (he could tell from the veins of mineral pitch in the stone), and that the old walls now simply fenced the churchyard and its wooden church.

but in olden times it belonged to the Volga Mountain Tatars. … Of the Tatar settlement traces could still be seen to this hour, consisting of ruined walls. There were only three of them; on the south side the steep bank of the Volga served as protection. They were built of limestone quarried on the Volga

Working translation

Original wording

vor Alters aber gehörte er den wolgaischen Bergtatarn. … Von dem tatarischen Wohnplatze waren noch bis diese Stunde Spuren zu sehen, welche in verfallenen Mauern bestanden. Es waren ihrer nur drey an der Zahl; auf der Mittagsseite aber diente das steile Ufer der Wolga zum Schutz. Sie waren von Kalksteinen, die man an der Wolga gebrochen hatte, aufgeführt

Ivan Lepekhin (German translation, 1774)

About 'Volga Mountain Tatars' (Tatars of the Volga's high right bank)

A grave mound with furnaces: laboratory or metalworker's tomb?

Editorial contextNear a Don Cossack farmstead Lepekhin examined a grave mound that had been dug open. The top of the page is damaged, but it can be made out that inside were furnace-like structures, slag, pieces of crucibles and a human skeleton, and that much iron had been found. He decides it is more likely a tomb than a workshop, because 'the old Tatars' buried people of rank with the tools of their trade, and concludes that the old inhabitants of the Volga were skilled in all the useful arts.

that the old Tatars had the custom of burying persons of distinguished rank and station with all the tools and gear they had chiefly worked with in their lifetime. For the rest, this mound may be a Tatar laboratory or the tomb of a famous metallurgist among them; it is all one to me.

Working translation

Original wording

daß die alten Tatarn im Gebrauch hatten, Personen, deren Rang und Stand sich auszeichnete, mit alle dem Geräthe und Zubehör zur Erde zu bestatten, womit sie in ihrem Leben vornehmlich zu schaffen gehabt hatten. Uebrigens mag dieser Hügel ein tatarisches Laboratorium, oder das Grabmahl eines berühmten Metallurgen unter ihnen seyn; das ist mir einerley.

Ivan Lepekhin (German translation, 1774)

About 'The old Tatars' and the ancient inhabitants of the Volga country

Keep in mind

Calling the mound Tatar is Lepekhin's inference from what he had read about Tatar burial; the damaged scan hides the full description of the finds.

Paying the bride price by instalments

Editorial contextA Tatar groom had to pay a bride price (kalym). If he could not pay at once, the bride stayed with her father until the whole sum was paid off bit by bit, but meanwhile the groom could visit her secretly, a custom called 'going to the bosom', with strict limits. Lepekhin adds that these visits let the groom get to know his bride and, if he found something amiss, cancel the match and recover part of the price. The mullah then completes the marriage by asking set questions three times, answered by the groom's helper and the matchmaker.

otherwise the bride stays with her father until the groom has paid off the whole sum little by little. Meanwhile the groom has the right to visit his bride secretly from time to time, which they call 'going to the bosom' … for the groom's liberty may extend only as far as the bride's bosom, and no further.

Working translation

Original wording

widrigenfalls bleibt die Braut so lange bey dem Vater, bis der Bräutigam die ganze Summe nach und nach abgezahlet hat. Indessen hat der Bräutigam das Recht, seine Braut insgeheim von Zeit zu Zeit zu besuchen, welches bey ihnen an den Busen gehen heißt … denn nur bis auf den Busen der Braut, aber weiter nicht, darf sich die Freyheit des Bräutigams erstrecken.

Ivan Lepekhin (German translation, 1774)

About Volga Tatars

Daily lifeBolgar (Bulgary), Tatarstan13th to 14th century epitaphs, copied 1722, printed 1774

Gravestones of a princess and a man from Samarkand

Editorial contextThe journal prints some fifty epitaphs from Bulgary's grave mounds, copied in 1722 on Peter the Great's orders and translated into Russian by an akhun, a local translator and an Armenian (for the Armenian stones). Each begins 'The Lord is the living and immortal God' and gives a name and a Muslim year: a man 'from the city of Samarkand', a patriarch from Shirvan, a woman 'from the kingdom of Bulgaria', and this princess Sara, daughter of Achmet, who died in the year 670 of the Hijra (1271 or 1272). A translator's footnote notes that the year 623 (1226) appears most often and guesses there was an epidemic that year.

The Lord is the living and immortal God. This is the resting place of the most godly, very merciful, very beautiful, high-born and spotless, venerable and most faithful princess Sara, daughter of Achmet. She died in the year of Mohammed 670.

Working translation

Original wording

Der Herr ist der lebendige und unsterbliche Gott. Dies ist die Grabstätte der überaus gottseligen, sehr barmherzigen, sehr schönen, hochgebornen und unbefleckten, verehrungswürdigen und vielgläubigen Fürstin Sara, Tochter Achmets. Sie starb im Jahr von Mahomed 670.

Bulgar gravestone inscription, as translated in 1722 and printed in Lepekhin's journal (German translation, 1774)

About Muslim inhabitants of medieval Bulgar (epitaphs in 'Tatar script')

Keep in mind

A translation of a translation (Arabic-script original, then Russian, then German); names may be distorted.

A mosque in every village, plain inside

Editorial contextEvery Tatar village Lepekhin saw on the Cheremshan had its own mosque (metschet) and clergyman, and larger villages two or three. The mosques were bare of ornament except for a carpet on the wall and another on the floor at the place of the akhun, the senior cleric. He goes on to explain the ranks of Tatar clergy (akhun, mullah and abyz, muezzin), how only the akhun may wear the turban, and how the clergy judge quarrels and punish offenders by the Koran.

The Tatars who live on the Cheremshan are, as far as I have seen of them, all of the Mohammedan religion, and every village has its mosque and its clergyman … In their mosques there is nothing ornamental to be seen, except at the place of the chief clergyman, the akhun.

Working translation

Original wording

Die Tatarn, welche am Tscheremschan wohnen, sind, so viel ich ihrer habe zu sehen bekommen, alle mohamedanischer Religion, und jedes Dorf hat seine Metschet und seinen Geistlichen … In ihren Metscheten ist nichts von Zierrathen zu sehen, außer an dem … Platz des vornehmsten Geistlichen des Achun.

Ivan Lepekhin (German translation, 1774)

About Volga Tatars (Muslim farming villages)

Keep in mind

Marginal headings printed beside the text break into the OCR line; they are left out with ellipses.

A father's duty: school and an early marriage

Editorial contextFrom what Tatars told him, Lepekhin picked out two rules he thought did them credit and could serve as an example to many fathers. A Tatar father who did not send his son to school, to learn reading, writing and religion, was held to commit an unforgivable sin, and it was an equally serious fault to leave one's children long unmarried out of stubbornness or greed.

From their accounts I have noted two things that I cannot pass over in silence, [which not only] redound to the credit of the Tatars but also serve as an example to many fathers. … it is counted an unforgivable sin if he does not put [his son] into school, both to learn to read and write and [to be] instructed in religion.

Working translation

Original wording

Aus ihren Erzählungen habe ich zweyerley bemerkt, das ich nicht verschweigen kann, … den Tatarn zum Ruhm gereicht, sondern auch vielen Vätern zum Exempel dienet. … wird es für eine unverzeihliche Sünde angerechnet, wenn er … nicht in die Schule thut, sowohl um lesen und schreiben zu lernen, … der Religion unterrichtet zu werden.

Ivan Lepekhin (German translation, 1774)

About Volga Tatars

Keep in mind

A few words are lost at the left edge of the scan; the gaps are marked.

The town the locals said had sunk into the earth

Editorial contextAt Uvek the ground sometimes caved in over deep stone cellars. The local people took these cellars for 'sunken stone buildings' and believed the whole town had sunk into the earth when the ground broke open, with many other tales Lepekhin thought too odd to repeat. He dismisses this as the chatter of the common people and prefers his own explanation: a Tatar town destroyed by an enemy, whose buried cellars remained.

The common people believe it sank into the earth when the ground broke open, because one sometimes finds places where the earth has fallen into deep stone cellars lying beneath and broken through, and these cellars they take for sunken stone buildings. To this they add many other little tales and chatter, too strange to be repeated.

Working translation

Original wording

Das gemeine Volk glaubt, er sey in die Erde durch einen Durchbruch derselben versunken, weil man zuweilen Stellen findet wo die Erde sich in die darunter liegenden tiefen steinernen Keller hineingestürzt hat und durchgebrochen ist, welche Keller sie für versunkene steinerne Gebäude halten; diesem fügen sie noch viele andere Mährgen und ein Gewäsche bey, welches zu wunderlich ist, als daß man es anführen könnte.

Ivan Lepekhin (German translation, 1774)

About Russian peasants of the Saratov district, about the old Tatar site

Keep in mind

Folk belief reported and rejected by Lepekhin; he saw the collapsed cellars himself.

Elephant bones by the Volga: war elephants, not the Flood

Editorial contextA broken elephant tusk nearly a metre long had washed out of a river bank, and human bones and broken iron spearheads had been found nearby. Lepekhin sets aside the theories that the far north was once hot, that the Flood carried the beasts there, or that they were freaks of nature. He argues instead that Asian peoples trained elephants for war, that these animals were buried only a few hundred years ago, and that Tatar-style armies would never have bothered to saw off the tusks.

That some of the Asiatic peoples trained elephants for fighting and battle is, in my opinion, surely a well-known fact. Accordingly my view is that these foreign corpses were buried not far from the Volga not many thousands but a few hundred years ago. … [another thing is] to saw off elephant tusks and drag them away, especially when we consider the way the Tatars are used to going to war.

Working translation

Original wording

Daß aber die asiatischen Völker zum Theil Elephanten zum Gefecht und zur Schlacht abgerichtet haben, ist ja wohl, meines Erachtens, eine bekannte Sache. Und diesemnach ist meine Meynung, daß diese ausländischen Leichen nicht vor vielen tausend, sondern vor etlichen hundert Jahren nicht weit von der Wolga begraben worden sind. … Elephantenzähne abzusägen und mit fortzuschleppen, zumal wenn wir die Art bedenken, wie die Tatarn zu Felde zu ziehen pflegen.

Ivan Lepekhin (German translation, 1774)

About 'Asiatic peoples' and Tatar armies (Lepekhin's theory)

Keep in mind

He saw the tusk; the war-elephant explanation is his own guess. Such tusks are now known to be fossil mammoth ivory, and he himself mentions 'mammoth bones' from Siberia on the same page.

Cave spirits that steal Tatar calves

Editorial contextThe Tatars who guided Lepekhin to the warm caves near Tabynsk would not go near the entrance, let alone inside. They told him that spirits lived in the caves and often dragged calves and small livestock down the holes, and many swore they had seen the spirits, in human shape, hauling Tatar cattle inside. Lepekhin blames 'old wives' chatter' and goes in anyway.

The Tatars did not dare go near the cave, … and told us incredible fables about the spirits living in these caves, which besides frightening them also did them harm, often dragging calves and other small livestock into the holes that lead inside; they assured us that many of them had been eyewitnesses of how the spirits, in human shape, had hauled the Tatars' cattle in.

Working translation

Original wording

Die Tatarn getrauten sich nicht nahe an die Höle zu treten, … und erzählten uns unbegreifliche Fabeln, von den in diesen Hölen wohnenden Geistern, welche außer der Furcht ihnen auch Schaden zufügten, indem sie nicht selten Kälber und anderes kleines Vieh in die hineinführenden Löcher zögen; sie versicherten uns viele von ihnen wären Augenzeugen davon gewesen, wie die Geister in Menschengestalt der Tatarn Vieh hineingeschleppt hätten.

Ivan Lepekhin (German translation, 1775)

About Tatars of the village of Kurmanaevo near Tabynsk

Keep in mind

Local belief reported by a sceptical outsider.

Strange talesStavropol-on-Volga (Kalmyk steppe)September 1768 (Neumann writing earlier in the century)

Milk that makes you drunk: a German chemist scoffs

Editorial contextLepekhin describes how the baptized Kalmyks distil fermented mare's milk into a spirit, with two kettles joined by a tube sealed with clay, and says he saw it more than once, as Professor Gmelin had reported. Foreign chemists called this a fable. His German translator adds a footnote quoting the chemist Caspar Neumann, who had never seen a Kalmyk or Tatar: Neumann found it hard to believe that the 'Tartars' could achieve such a thing and thought the recipe (with millet and barley added) looked 'truly Tartarish'. The translator uses the quotation to show how prejudice misled even a careful scientist.

that such a rare thing should be brought about by the Tartars, who, as far as I know, have shown the world few or no physical or chemical discoveries and are hardly likely to; … whereupon I cannot deny that at first sight the ingredients struck me as truly Tartarish

Working translation

Original wording

daß dergleichen seltene Begebenheit von den Tartarn zuwege gebracht würde, als welche, meines Wissens, wohl wenig oder keine physikalisch-chymische Erfindungen der Welt dargethan, auch wohl nicht leicht darthun werden; … da ich denn nicht läugnen kann, daß mir im ersten Anblick die Ingredientien wahrhaftig recht tartarisch vorkamen

Caspar Neumann, German chemist, quoted in a footnote by Lepekhin's German translator (1774)

About Baptized Kalmyks, and 'Tartars' in general as imagined by a German chemist

Keep in mind

The sneer is Neumann's, quoted in order to refute it; Lepekhin himself vouches for the milk spirit from what he saw.

The fine print

How we know

firsthand The author saw the places or people described.

firsthand observation by the Russian academician Lepekhin on the Orenburg expedition (Volga, Ural, Bashkiria); German translation by Hase

Research notes
  • Translation; Hase's preface explains the relation to the Russian 1771 first volume. Third German volume (1783) unverified.
  • Russian original is in the Russian tradition's remit.

Why it matters

Russian academician's eyewitness journal of the Volga-Ural frontier in the same years as Pallas, available to German readers; documents Bashkir and Kalmyk settlements and the Orenburg line from a Russian participant.

Places named

Volga; Simbirsk; Orenburg; Ural; Bashkiria; Caspian lowland (Guryev)

Peoples named

Turkic and Central Asian peoples and states
Golden Horde and its Tatar successor khanates
Indigenous peoples of Siberia and the North Pacific
Western Mongols (Oirat, Dzungar, Kalmyk)
Rus, Muscovy and the Russian Empire

Bashkirs; Kazan Tatars; Chuvash; Mordvins; Kalmyks; Kazakh frontier; Ural Cossacks

Keep exploring