Written source · French

Humboldt's Central Asia

Alexander von Humboldt's 1843 survey of the mountains and climate of inner Asia, which retires the old 'plateau of Tartary'.

Full title Central Asia: researches on the mountain chains and comparative climatology (3 vols, 1843; written in French)

Alexander von Humboldt

Read the 10 passagesOpen the original book

Alexander von Humboldt (1769-1859) travelled through the Urals, the Altai and the Russian-Chinese frontier in Dzungaria in 1829. In 1843 he published Asie centrale in French, three volumes that combine his own barometer readings and observations with a critical review of everything written about inner Asia: Greek and Roman geographers, Chinese sources supplied by Klaproth and Stanislas Julien, Marco Polo, the Jesuit maps and Russian and Tatar caravan itineraries. Much of it is geology, but he repeatedly explains why he drops the name 'Tartary' and the idea of a single high central plateau. The corpus has several scans of the 1843 Paris edition.

How they knew
Part eyewitness
Who “Tartar” means here
Humboldt uses 'Tartarie' mainly to describe the older map label and the discredited 'plateau of Tartary'; in the present he speaks of Tatars of Orenburg and Semipalatinsk (Volga and Siberian Muslims working as traders and guides), Kalmyks, Kirghiz (Kazakhs) and Dzungars.
Why read it
It is the clearest 19th-century statement that the idea of a lost ancient civilisation on the high plains of Tartary was an 18th-century dream, written by the most respected scientist of the age after he had measured the ground himself.
Watch out
Most of the book is technical geography. His Chinese material is second-hand, some of his own conclusions about the interior were revised by later explorers, and the stories he collected from Tatar and Kazakh informants are clearly marked by him as reports.

What it says: 10 passages

Nobody yet knew where Karakorum lay

Editorial contextIn a footnote Humboldt lists the rival guesses for the ruins of Karakorum, Mongke Khan's capital: Klaproth put it at one set of coordinates, Abel-Remusat at one of two named ruins, and d'Anville had it two degrees too far south-east. He adds that Wilhelm Schott thought the name meant 'black town' or 'black residence'. The site was still unidentified in his day.

Klaproth places the ruins of Karakorum at latitude 46° 41', longitude 100° 24'. … Abel-Remusat believes Karakorum identical either with Talarho-kara-balgasun (long. 100° 44', lat. 47° 32') or with Baisiri-buritu (long. 100° 36', lat. 48° 24'). … Mr Schott, to whom we owe ingenious and learned research on the Tartar languages, thinks that Karakorum means black town or black residence.

Working translation

Original wording

Klaproth place les ruines de Kara-Khorum lat. 46° 41', long. 100° 24'. … Abel-Rémusat croit Kara-Khorum identique ou avec Talarho-kara-balgasoun (long. 100° 44', lat. 47° 32') ou avec Baisiri-bouritou (long. 100° 36', lat. 48° 24'). … M. Schott, auquel on doit d'ingénieuses et savantes recherches sur les langues tartares, pense que Kara-Koroum signifie ville ou résidence noire.

Alexander von Humboldt (footnote)

About Mongols

Keep in mind

Longitudes are reckoned from Paris. The ruins of Karakorum were identified beside Erdene Zuu monastery only in 1889.

Kuznetsk, a Russian town among 'blacksmith Tatars'

Editorial contextDescribing the Kuznetsk mountains, Humboldt notes that the Russian town of Kuznetsk on the Tom was founded in 1618 in the midst of Tartars, or Turks, who worked iron. A footnote explains the name: the Russians called them 'Kuznetsk Tatars', from kuznets, blacksmith. He adds that the first Russian foundations of Tobolsk, near the old Tatar capital of Isker or Sibir, and of Tiumen were only some thirty years older.

the town of Kuznetsk (in the midst of Tartars, or Turks who were iron-smiths) was founded in 1618, that is, already 31 or 32 years after the first Russian foundations of Tobolsk (near the old Isker and Sibir) and of Tiumen.

Working translation

Original wording

la ville de Kousnetsk (au milieu de Tartares ou Turcs forgerons en fer) fut fondée en 1618, c'est-à-dire déjà 31 ou 32 ans après les premières fondations russes de Tobolsk (près de l'ancien Isker et Sibir) et de Tiumen.

Alexander von Humboldt

About Kuznetsk Tatars (Turkic iron-smiths of the Tom valley)

BuildingsUst-Kamenogorskmid-17th century; ruins seen by Russians in the 18th century

Ablai-kit: a Kalmyk monastery with a printing press

Editorial contextNear the upper Irtysh stand the ruins of Ablai-kit, a Buddhist monastery that the Kalmyk prince Ablai founded in the mid-17th century, with a Mongol-Tibetan library and a woodblock press. Manuscripts from it were sent to Paris under Peter the Great. Humboldt notes that half-torn leaves of Tibetan books could still be found scattered in the steppe grass around the ruins.

which a Kalmyk prince, Ablai, had founded in the middle of the 17th century and endowed with a Mongol-Tibetan library and a woodblock printing press. … Even today one finds half-torn leaves of Tibetan books scattered in the steppe grass around the ruins of Ablai-kit.

Working translation

Original wording

qu'un prince kalmuk Ablai avait fondé au milieu du dix-septième siècle et enrichi d'une bibliothèque mongolo-tubétaine comme d'une imprimerie xylographique. … Encore aujourd'hui on trouve éparses dans l'herbe de la steppe, autour des ruines d'Ablaikit, des feuilles à demi-déchirées de livres tubétains.

Alexander von Humboldt

About Kalmyks (Dzungar Oirats)

Keep in mind

Humboldt passed nearby in 1829 but does not say he visited Ablai-kit itself; the detail about the leaves comes from reports.

The 'palaces' of Semipalatinsk were lama cells

Editorial contextThe town of Semipalatinsk ('seven palaces') took its name from old ruins. Humboldt, who saw them, thought they were a Buddhist establishment like Ablai-kit, whose painted cells had housed lamas. He compares the little roadside shrines of the Volga Kalmyks near Sarepta: cages on tall poles holding an idol and a few religious books.

It is probable that the Palaty whose ruins I saw at Semipalatinsk were a very similar establishment, whose cells, once covered with paintings, served as dwellings for lamas. In the steppe of the Volga Kalmyks, near Sarepta, the Moravian Brethren's colony, one finds out in the open fields cages topped by tall posts and containing, beside a Buddhist idol, a small collection of religious books.

Working translation

Original wording

Il est probable que les Palates dont j'ai vu les ruines à Semipolatinsk, étaient un établissement tout semblable dont les cellules, jadis couvertes de peintures, servaient d'habitation à des lamas. Dans la steppe des Kalmuks du Wolga, voisine de Sarepta, colonie des frères Moraves, on trouve en plein champ des cages surmontées de poteaux élevés et renfermant, près d'une idole du culte bouddhistique, une petite collection de livres religieux.

Alexander von Humboldt (footnote)

About Kalmyks (Dzungar and Volga)

Keep in mind

Humboldt saw the Semipalatinsk ruins; his identification of them as a lama monastery is his inference.

Show 6 more passages
Daily lifeMongolia13th century (Polo's report)

Marco Polo: all who meet a khan's funeral are killed

Editorial contextDiscussing where Marco Polo's 'Altai' was, Humboldt quotes Polo's story that Chinggis Khan and all his descendants were carried back to be buried in the Altai, however far away they died, and that everyone met on the road was killed to serve the dead khan in the next life. In a note he compares this to Herodotus' account of Scythian royal funerals some 1,700 years earlier.

'Chinggis himself and all his descendants,' says Marco Polo, 'are buried in the Altai. They are carried there even if they died forty days' journey away. All those who happen to be on the road as the body of the great khans passes are mercilessly put to death, to serve their sovereign and master in the other life.'

Working translation

Original wording

« Tchinghiz lui-même et tous ses descendants, dit Marco-Polo, ont leur sépulture dans l'Altai. On les porte vers ce lieu, et fussent-ils morts à quarante journées de distance. Tous ceux qui se trouvent sur la route au passage du corps des grands-khans, sont impitoyablement mis à mort pour servir leur souverain et maître dans l'autre vie. »

Marco Polo, quoted in French by Alexander von Humboldt

About Mongol grand khans (the house of Chinggis)

Keep in mind

Polo was repeating what he was told; Humboldt uses the passage to locate Polo's 'Altai' (the mountains of northern Mongolia), not to vouch for the killings.

Daily lifeLake Alakolreport collected 1829

Sheep sacrificed to a 'volcano' in Lake Alakol

Editorial contextAt Orenburg in 1829 Humboldt copied a caravan report from the papers of General Gens. It described a high mountain rising like an island in Lake Alakol that had once spewed fire and still caused storms that troubled caravans, so travellers sacrificed sheep to it as they passed. Humboldt believed the report came from a Tatar informant.

we saw a very high mountain that once spewed fire. Even now this mountain, which rises in the lake like a small island, causes violent storms that trouble the caravans: that is why, in passing, people sacrifice a few sheep to this old volcano.

Working translation

Original wording

nous vîmes une très-haute montagne qui a autrefois vomi du feu. Présentement encore, ce mont qui s'élève dans le lac comme une petite île, occasionne des tempêtes violentes qui incommodent les caravanes : c'est pourquoi on sacrifie en passant quelques moutons à cet ancien volcan.

an anonymous caravan itinerary (Semipalatinsk to Yarkand) from General Gens's papers, quoted by Alexander von Humboldt

About caravan travellers between Semipalatinsk and Yarkand (Tatar informants)

Keep in mind

A later informant, the mullah Sayfulla, knew nothing of a fire mountain or of sacrifices to it, and said the offerings were made at a hot spring instead; Humboldt prints both versions.

'The high plains of Tartary' are not the centre of Asia

Editorial contextExplaining why he calls his book 'Central Asia', Humboldt warns that terms like 'Central Asia' and 'High Asia' are used loosely. Travellers from India who cross the Himalaya to the sacred lakes of Tibet, on the plateau once called 'the high plains of Tartary', are in fact as far from the true centre of Asia as a Siberian at Tobolsk.

When travellers from India cross the Himalaya … and reach the two Sacred Lakes, on the plateau that people once saw fit to call 'the high plains of Tartary', they are no doubt heading towards Central Asia, but they are still … as far from the centre of Asia as are the inhabitants of Siberia on the parallel of Tobolsk

Working translation

Original wording

Lorsque les voyageurs de l'Inde franchissent la chaîne de l'Himalaya … et arrivent aux deux Lacs Sacrés, sur le plateau que l'on a cru devoir nommer jadis « les hautes plaines de la Tartarie, » ils marchent sans doute vers l'Asie centrale, mais ils se trouvent encore … aussi éloignés du centre de l'Asie que le sont des habitants de la Sibérie sous le parallèle de Tobolsk

Alexander von Humboldt

Flood geology and the 'Plateau of Tartary'

Editorial contextHumboldt explains how a geographic guess became a myth. If the highest lands had been the first to emerge from the waters, they must also have received the first seeds of civilisation; 'diluvial' geology built on ancient myths encouraged this, and so the vaguely named Plateau of Tartary gained a 'moral interest'. Travel, measurement and the study of Asian languages, he says, have corrected these exaggerations.

The high regions that had been the first to be left by the waters must also have been the first to receive the seeds of civilisation. Systems of diluvial geology, founded on ancient myths and local traditions, favoured these views. … gave this great massif, this continuous plateau vaguely called the Plateau of Tartary, a moral interest and a special importance.

Working translation

Original wording

Les hautes régions qui les premières avaient été abandonnées par les eaux, devaient aussi avoir reçu les premières des germes de civilisation. Des systèmes de géologie diluvienne, fondés sur des mythes anciens et sur des traditions locales, favorisaient ces aperçus. … donnait à ce grand massif, à ce plateau continu, vaguement appelé Plateau de la Tartarie, un intérêt moral et une importance particulière.

Alexander von Humboldt

About European scholars of the 18th century

The ancient people who 'taught us everything except their name'

Editorial contextHumboldt says the high plains of Tartary are no longer seen as the cradle of human civilisation and of the arts and sciences. He borrows d'Alembert's joke about the vanished ancient people imagined by Bailly: they taught us everything except their name and the fact that they existed. Solid research, he adds, has shown that learning reached the lands between the Pamirs, China and the Altai late.

These high plains of Tartary are no longer regarded as the cradle of human civilisation, the original home of the sciences and arts. It has vanished, that ancient people which, in d'Alembert's happy phrase, 'taught us everything except its name and its existence.'

Working translation

Original wording

Ces plaines élevées de la Tartarie ne sont plus regardées comme le berceau de la civilisation humaine, le site primitif des sciences et des arts. Il a disparu, ce peuple ancien qui, selon une expression heureuse de d'Alembert, « Nous a tout appris, excepté son nom et son existence. »

Alexander von Humboldt, quoting Jean d'Alembert's letter to Voltaire

About an imagined lost people of Tartary

The storm cave of Oufbe

Editorial contextAn old Tatar mullah of Semipalatinsk, who had travelled to Kulja, told the Kazan orientalist Kazim-Beg of a huge cave on the caravan road past Lake Alakol, called Oufbe in Tatar. It blew out storms lasting two days, strong enough to fling things into the lake; nobody dared go in, and only God knew how deep it was. Caravans waited a week for the winds to pass.

there is a great underground cave; it bears the Tatar name Oufbe. Sometimes, and chiefly in winter, it produces violent storms that last for two days. The entrance of this cave looks like a vast vault, and no one dares to enter it or even look at it closely. Its depth is unknown to everyone except God (Allah).

Working translation

Original wording

est une grande caverne souterraine; elle porte le nom tatar d'Oufbé. Quelquefois, et principalement en hiver, elle produit des tempêtes violentes qui durent pendant deux jours. L'entrée de cette caverne ressemble à celle d'un vaste caveau, et personne n'ose y entrer, ni même y regarder de bien près. Sa profondeur est inconnue à tout le monde, à l'exception de Dieu (Allah).

Mullah Sayfulla Kazi of Semipalatinsk, reported in a letter by Mirza Kazem-Beg, translated by Alexander von Humboldt

About Tatar and Kazakh caravan travellers

Keep in mind

Third-hand: Humboldt prints Kazem-Beg's English letter in French, and Kazem-Beg himself only guessed that fire had once come out of the cave. The pass is known for violent winds.

The fine print

How we know

mixed Part firsthand observation, part drawn from other sources.

mixed: Humboldt's own 1829 expedition to the Urals, Altai and Dzungarian frontier (firsthand), combined with a critical compilation of Chinese, Arabic, classical and Russian geographical sources (many supplied by Klaproth and Stanislas Julien)

Research notes
  • Chinese material is second-hand through Klaproth and Julien; Humboldt's Altai observations are firsthand but his conclusions on the central plateau were revised by later exploration.
  • German edition (Mahlmann 1844) is for the German agent.

Why it matters

Humboldt's critical review of every earlier statement about the interior of Asia (Ptolemy, Chinese sources via Julien, Marco Polo, the Jesuit surveys, Russian reports) is the most thorough pre-1850 audit of the geographical knowledge behind "Tartary"; he explicitly discusses the vocabulary (Tartarie, Asie centrale, Haute Asie) and why he abandons the former.

Places named

Altai; Dzungaria; Tian Shan; Tarim Basin; Urals; Caspian-Aral depression; Tibet plateau

Peoples named

Western Mongols (Oirat, Dzungar, Kalmyk)
Turkic and Central Asian peoples and states
Jurchen and Manchus (incl. the Qing as a Manchu dynasty)

Kalmyks; Kirghiz (Kazakhs); Dzungars; Uighurs; Chinese frontier posts

Keep exploring