Written source · German

Gustav Rose's narrative of Humboldt's Russian journey, 1829

The day-by-day German account of Alexander von Humboldt's 1829 expedition from Kazan to the Altai, the Chinese frontier and Astrakhan.

Full title Journey to the Ural, the Altai and the Caspian Sea, carried out in 1829 by order of the Emperor of Russia by A. von Humboldt, G. Ehrenberg and G. Rose: mineralogical-geognostic part and historical report of the journey, 2 vols (Berlin 1837-1842)

Gustav Rose

Read the 13 passagesOpen the original book

Gustav Rose, a Berlin mineralogist, travelled with Alexander von Humboldt and the naturalist Ehrenberg through Russia and western Siberia in 1829 at the invitation of Tsar Nicholas I. His two volumes (Berlin 1837 and 1842) mix geology with a lively travel diary: Kazan and the ruins of Bulghar, the Ural mines, Tobolsk, Barnaul and the Altai, a visit to a Chinese border post on the Irtysh, Orenburg, and the Kalmyk and Tatar peoples of the lower Volga and Astrakhan. Humboldt added notes, including a long one on the word 'Tatar'. The corpus holds three scans of volume 1 and one of volume 2 (the second has poor OCR).

How they knew
Eyewitness
Who “Tartar” means here
Rose uses 'Tataren' for the Turkic-speaking Muslims of Kazan, Tobolsk and Astrakhan. Humboldt's note explains that these are Turks, that 'Tatar' first meant the Mongols, and that 'Tartar' with an r is a Western European mistake. Kazakhs (Kirghiz) and Kalmyks are named separately.
Why read it
Contains one of the clearest early explanations of how 'Tatar' became 'Tartar', including the famous pun of St Louis, plus careful eyewitness notes on Tatar Kazan, the ruins of Bulghar and how local people were quarrying them, and a Kalmyk prince's Tibetan-style temple.
Watch out
Rose is a geologist writing up a fast official journey, and much of the history is taken from Pallas, Erdmann, Klaproth and Frähn. The volume 2 scan (T0790) has badly damaged OCR, so quotes from it were restored from garbled text and should be checked against the page images.

What it says: 13 passages

CitiesKazanMay 1829

Kazan: remains of the Tatar khanate in the Kremlin

Editorial contextRose describes Kazan's fortress as still holding many remains of Tatar rule, which flourished there for three centuries until Ivan IV took the city in 1552, destroyed it and built a new one. A tower was still named after the wife of the last khan. On the same page he says the Russians lived in the city proper and the Tatars in the suburbs (slobody), making up about a third of Kazan's people.

In the fortress one still sees many remains of Tatar rule, which flourished in Kazan for three centuries in a separate, independent khanate, until it was overthrown by Grand Prince Ivan Vasilyevich, who took the city in 1552, destroyed it from the ground up and built a new one in its place. An old tower is still called the Sunibeka after the wife of the last Tatar khan.

Working translation

Original wording

In der Festung sieht man noch viele Ueberreste der Tatarischen Herrschaft, die in Kasan in einem besonderen unabhängigen Chanate drei Jahrhunderte lang geblüht hat, bis sie durch den Grossfürsten Joann Wassiljewitsch gestürzt ward, der die Stadt im Jahre 1552 einnahm, sie von Grund aus zerstörte, und eine neue an ihrer Stelle aufbaute. Ein alter Thurm heisst noch die Sunibeka nach der Gemahlin des letzten Tatarischen Chans.

Gustav Rose

About Kazan Tatars

Keep in mind

The Söyembikä tower's date is disputed; many historians think it was built after the Russian conquest.

CitiesBolgar, Tatarstan1236 to 14th century (written 1837)

Bulghar, summer seat of the Golden Horde khans

Editorial contextRose summarises the history of Bulghar on the Volga: it suffered from 'Mongol-Tatar' raids, was conquered by Batu Khan in 1236, and then served the Golden Horde khans as their summer residence, with Sarai on the lower Volga as their winter seat. The next page adds that Marco Polo's father and uncle stayed there in 1261.

…was completely subdued in 1236 by Batu Khan, grandson of Genghis Khan, and incorporated into the Kipchak empire. The descendants of Genghis Khan in this empire, whom the Russians called the khans of the Golden Horde, chose Bulghar as their summer residence and Sarai on the lower Volga as their winter residence.

Working translation

Original wording

…von Batü Chan, dem Enkel von Dschingis Chan, 1236 völlig unterworfen und dem Kaptschakischen Reiche einverleibt wurde. Die Nachkommen Dschingis Chans in diesem Reiche, die von den Russen die Chane der Goldnen Horde genannt wurden, erwählten Bulghar zu ihrer Sommer-Residenz, und Serai an der untern Wolga zu ihrer Winter-Residenz.

Gustav Rose

About Volga Bulghars; Mongols of the Golden Horde

Keep in mind

Background history compiled from Klaproth, Frähn and Erdmann, not observation.

CitiesAstrakhanOctober 1829

Astrakhan, a city of many Asian peoples

Editorial contextRose found Astrakhan smaller than Kazan but more mixed than almost any city he knew, drawn together by trade from the far ends of Asia and Europe. Russians were slightly under half the population; besides Cossacks and Europeans there were Armenians, Tatars, Georgians, Bukharans, Khivans, Turkmens, Persians, Hindus, Kazakhs and Kalmyks. Delegations of many of them called on Humboldt.

…one will rarely find a city in which, as here, such a mixed population lives, brought together by commercial interest from the farthest ends of Asia and Europe. For besides the Russians, who make up somewhat less than half of Astrakhan's inhabitants, the Cossacks and the other Europeans settled here, there are also Armenians, Tatars, Georgians, Bukharans, Khivans, Turkmens, Persians, Hindus, Kirghiz and Kalmyks

Working translation

Original wording

…man wird selten eine Stadt finden, in welcher wie hier eine so gemischte Bevölkerung lebt, die das merkantilische Interesse aus den entferntesten Enden von Asien und Europa zusammengeführt hat. Denn ausser den Russen, die etwa die kleinere Hälfte der Bewohner Astrachans ausmachen, den Kosaken und den übrigen hier ansässigen Europäern, finden sich hier noch Armenier, Tataren, Georgier, Bucharen, Chiwensen, Truchmenen, Perser, Hindus, Kirgisen und Kalmücken

Gustav Rose

About Tatars, Kalmyks, Kazakhs, Armenians, Persians, Indians and others

Bulghar's ruins quarried for a village church

Editorial contextAt the stone ruins of Bulghar, Rose watched the site being dismantled: villagers took building stone from the old walls, and the village church was built entirely from the stones of the old city and local gravestones. He also saw a Tatar mullah praying in and before several ruins, because Tatar saints were said to be buried there. A clear case of ruins disappearing through reuse, not burial.

Unfortunately they are becoming ever less significant, since the peasants use the rubble stones from the old walls for their buildings, and even the village's stone church is built entirely from the building stones of the old city and the gravestones found in the area … Several Tatar saints are said to be buried in one of the buildings of old Bulghar, so the faithful still make pilgrimages to these ruins.

Working translation

Original wording

Leider werden dieselben immer unbedeutender, da die Bauern sich der Bruchsteine aus den alten Mauern zu ihren Bauten bedienen, und auch die steinerne Kirche des Dorfes ganz von den Bausteinen der alten Stadt und den in der Gegend gefundenen Grabsteinen aufgeführt ist … In einem der Gebäude des alten Bulghars sollen mehrere tatarische Heilige begraben liegen, daher von den Gläubigen auch noch zu diesen Ruinen gewallfahrtet wird.

Gustav Rose

About Russian villagers; Tatar pilgrims

Show 9 more passages

A wooden Buddhist chapel at a Qing border post

Editorial contextHumboldt's party visited the Qing border post of Baty on the Irtysh. Rose says (p. 601) it was really two posts, Mongols on one bank and Chinese on the other, all living in tents or Kazakh yurts under Chinese officers. The Mongol-side officer showed them the temple: a small square wooden building with an altar and a painted Buddhist image, and a slate altar outside. The frontier 'town' was a camp.

After staying a while he led us into the temple, which stood on this side of the Irtysh not far from the river. It was a small, square, wooden building whose door faced the river; inside we found it almost empty, since apart from an altar opposite the door and the image of an idol of the Buddhist cult on the wall above the altar …

Working translation

Original wording

Nach einigem Verweilen führte er uns in den Tempel, der auf dieser Seite des Irtysch nicht weit vom Flusse stand: Es war ein kleines, viereckiges, hölzernes Gebäude, dessen Thür dem Flusse zugekehrt war; im Innern fanden wir es fast leer, da es ausser einem Altar der Thür gegenüber, und der Abbildung eines Idols des Buddhistischen Cultus an der Wand über dem Altar …

Gustav Rose

About Mongol and Chinese soldiers of the Qing garrison

A Kalmyk prince's temple: Tibetan plan, Petersburg colonnades

Editorial contextHumboldt's party visited the Kalmyk prince Serebdzhab Tyumen at his Volga residence. His temple was an oblong building with a 'Japanese' (pagoda-style) roof, and the curved colonnades on either side recalled the Kazan Cathedral in St Petersburg. Rose was told the prince had added these to his own design, while the temple itself was built strictly on Tibetan models: a building that mixes steppe Buddhism and Russian neoclassicism.

…as at the Kazan Church in Petersburg. The prince had these added to his church according to his own idea; otherwise, as we were told, it was built strictly on Tibetan models.

Working translation

Original wording

…bei der Kasanischen Kirche in Petersburg. Diese hatte der Fürst nach eigener Idee seiner Kirche hinzufügen lassen, die sonst streng nach tibetanischen Modellen, wie man uns sagte, erbaut war.

Gustav Rose

About Kalmyks (Buddhist Oirat Mongols of the lower Volga)

Keep in mind

The OCR of this page is badly garbled; the wording was restored and should be checked against the scan.

The scan is too rough to double-check this quote by machine. Compare it with the page.

Belt wrestling at the Tatar Sabantuy

Editorial contextRose and Humboldt were taken to the Saban, the Tatar festival held every year after sowing, when for a week people gathered on a meadow outside Kazan for games. He describes wrestlers who threw off their coats, looped their belts round each other's backs and tried to lift and throw the opponent. Winners were cheered and given small gifts by rich Tatars, who also served the guests kumiss in tents.

Through our longer stay we also had the opportunity to get to know the Saban, a rural festival of the Tatars which they celebrate every year after the sowing is finished. … The fighters had thrown off their usual outer garment, slung their belts round the opponent's back, and now tried by means of the belts to lift him up and throw him down.

Working translation

Original wording

Wir hatten durch unsern längern Aufenthalt noch Gelegenheit den Saban, ein ländliches Fest der Tataren kennen zu lernen, das sie alljährlich nach beendeter Aussaat feiern. … Die Kämpfer hatten ihr gewöhnliches Oberkleid abgeworfen, ihre Gürtel um des Gegners Rücken geschlungen, und suchten nun denselben mittelst der Gürtel in die Höhe zu heben und umzuwerfen.

Gustav Rose

About Kazan Tatars

Daily lifeBolgar, Tatarstan1226 to 1342 (inscriptions); written 1837

Gravestones in Turkish, Arabic and Armenian

Editorial contextRose reports what was known of Bulghar's gravestones from copies made for Peter the Great in 1722, since most stones had been built into the church. There were 27 in Turkish, 20 in Arabic and 3 in Armenian, each with a Quran verse, the name and lineage of the dead and a date. The oldest group, of 1226, gives the year by a chronogram meaning 'the coming of oppression', which Klaproth linked to an early Mongol raid.

Among the inscriptions are 27 in Turkish, 20 in Arabic and 3 in Armenian. They all contain a saying from the Quran … Most and at the same time the oldest inscriptions are from the year 623 of the Hijra, or 1226 of our era, but in these the year of death is given only by a chronogram meaning 'the coming of oppression'

Working translation

Original wording

Unter den Inschriften befinden sich 27 in türkischer, 20 in arabischer und 3 in armenischer Sprache. Sie enthalten alle einen Spruch des Koran … Die meisten und zugleich ältesten Inschriften sind aus dem Jahre 623 der Hedschra, oder dem Jahre 1226 unserer Zeitrechnung, aber das Todesjahr ist bei diesen nur durch ein Chronogramm, welches die Ankunft der Unterdrückung bedeutet, angegeben

Gustav Rose (summarising Klaproth's edition of copies made for Peter the Great)

About Muslim inhabitants of Bulghar under the Golden Horde

Keep in mind

Second-hand: based on copies of copies, and Rose notes the Armenian texts could not be deciphered.

Kazakh nomads who irrigate millet fields

Editorial contextOn the way to the Chinese post, Rose passed several auls (travelling camps) of Kazakhs of the Great Horde and saw fields beside them. He notes that the millet grew well because the Kazakhs were skilled at irrigation, cutting little ditches to bring mountain water to the fields, and heard that they also grew wheat. A useful corrective to the idea of purely herding nomads.

We passed several of their auls, as their communities that travel about together are called, and near them also found the ground cultivated in places. Mostly we saw millet (Holcus sorghum) grown, which stood very well everywhere because the Kirghiz know how to irrigate the field very skilfully, cutting it through everywhere with small ditches by which water from the mountains is led to the field.

Working translation

Original wording

Wir kamen bei mehreren ihrer Aule vorbei, wie man ihre zusammen herumziehenden Gemeinden nennt, und fanden in der Nähe derselben auch den Boden stellenweise bebaut. Meistentheils sahen wir Hirse (Holcus Sorgum) gezogen, die überall recht gut stand, weil die Kirgisen den Acker sehr geschickt zu bewässern verstehen, und ihn überall mit kleinen Gräben durchschneiden, durch welche das Wasser von den Bergen dem Acker zugeführt wird.

Gustav Rose

About Kirghiz (Kazakhs of the Great Horde)

Astrakhan's Tatars: the town's craftsmen

Editorial contextRose calls the Astrakhan Tatars the descendants of the city's and the region's former inhabitants, still numerous, and like the Kazan Tatars. As in Kazan they were the real manufacturers of the town, especially dyers, tanners and soap-boilers, though the famous madder-dye works he visited was run by an Armenian.

Finally, as for the Tatars, they are the descendants of the former inhabitants of the city and the land and are still numerous. They are like the Tatars of Kazan, and in Astrakhan as there they are the real manufacturers, especially dyers, tanners and soap-boilers.

Working translation

Original wording

Was endlich die Tataren betrifft, so sind sie die Abkömmlinge der ehemaligen Bewohner der Stadt und des Landes und auch jetzt noch zahlreich. Sie sind den Tataren von Kasan ähnlich, und auch in Astrachan wie dort, die eigentlichen Fabrikanten, besonders Färber, Gerber und Seifensieder.

Gustav Rose

About Astrakhan Tatars

Keep in mind

Damaged OCR on this page; several words were restored.

The nameKazan1829 (note printed 1837)

Humboldt: Tatars are Turks, but the name first meant Mongols

Editorial contextIn a long footnote written for Rose, Humboldt explains that in the Russian Empire 'Tatars' always means a Turkic people (Crimean, Kazan and Tobolsk Tatars), not a Mongol-looking one. Among Asian writers, however, the name first belonged to the Mongols, and Ming-dynasty word lists in Peking translate 'Mongol' as Tata or Tataeul. He goes on to say the name passed to the Turks because Mongol conquerors ruled over them.

In the Russian Empire the name Tatars always stands for a Turkic race … the Tatars of the Crimea, of the government of Kazan and those of Tobolsk belong to the so-called Caucasian race. Tatars are Turks, but among Asian writers the name Tatars originally belonged to the Mongols. According to vocabularies made in Peking in the fifteenth century under the Ming dynasty, the word Mongol (Mogul) is translated as Tata or Tataeul …

Working translation

Original wording

Im Russischen Reiche gilt die Benennung Tataren stets für einen türkischen Menschenstamm … die Tataren der Krimm, des Gouvernements Kasan und die von Tobolsk gehören zu dem sogenannten Caucasischen Menschenstamm, Tataren sind Türken, aber die Benennung Tataren gehörte ursprünglich bei asiatischen Schriftstellern den Mongolen an, Das Wort Mongol (Mogul) wird nach Vocabularien, die im funfzehnten Jahrhundert unter der Dynastie Ming in Peking angefertigt sind, durch Tata oder Tataeul … übersetzt

Alexander von Humboldt (note communicated to Rose and printed as a footnote in Rose's Reise, vol. 1, 1837)

About Tatars of Crimea, Kazan and Tobolsk; Mongols

Keep in mind

Uses the race categories of its day ('Caucasian race'); the point about names is the useful part.

The name1241 (note printed 1837)

How 'Tatar' became 'Tartar': the pun of St Louis

Editorial contextHumboldt's note continues: the r in 'Tartar' was added in Western Europe by 'false erudition', linking the Mongols to Tartarus, the classical underworld. He quotes King Louis IX of France telling his mother in 1241 that the 'Tartars' would either be driven back to their Tartarean home or send the French to heaven. On the same page he compares it to the Spanish turning 'Carib' into 'cannibal' and warns against using 'Tartar' as a catch-all name.

Tatar was moreover changed into Tartar in Western Europe by false erudition. A pun of St Louis vividly expresses this erudition … St Louis said to his mother: 'Let heavenly comfort lift us up, mother, for if they come, either we shall push them, whom we call Tartars, back to their Tartarean seats whence they came out, or they will carry us all to heaven.'

Working translation

Original wording

Tatar wurde dazu durch falsche Erudition in West-Europa zu Tartaren umgewandelt, Ein Wortspiel des heiligen Ludwig drückt diese Erudition lebhaft aus, … sagte Ludwig der Heilige zu seiner Mutter: „Erigat nos, mater, coeleste solatium, quia si perveniant ipsi, vel nos ipsos, quos vocamus Tartaros, ad suas tartareas sedes, unde exierunt retrudemus, vel ipsi nos omnes ad coelum advehent.”

Alexander von Humboldt (footnote in Rose's Reise, vol. 1, 1837), quoting Louis IX of France

About Mongols (Tatars) of the 1241 invasion; Western Europeans

Keep in mind

Humboldt gives no source for the saying; it comes from the English chronicler Matthew Paris.

Kalmyk musicians play Rossini at a steppe banquet

Editorial contextAt dinner with the Kalmyk prince, attended also by Khan Jangir of the Inner (Bukey) Kazakh Horde, the food was cooked by a Russian chef and champagne was served. A band of Kalmyks led by a Russian bandmaster played overtures, including Rossini, marches and dance music, and Rose found it a remarkable sight to see Kalmyk musicians handle European instruments so skilfully.

…a band of Kalmyks, led by a Russian bandmaster, performed overtures by … and Rossini, as well as marches and dance music, with great skill.

Working translation

Original wording

…ein Chor von Kalmücken, unter Anführung eines russischen Kapellmeisters, Ouverturen … und Rossini wie auch Märsche und Tanzmusik mit vieler Fertigkeit auf.

Gustav Rose

About Kalmyks (Buddhist Oirat Mongols of the lower Volga)

Keep in mind

The OCR of this page is badly garbled; the wording was restored from damaged text (one composer's name is unreadable) and should be checked against the scan.

The scan is too rough to double-check this quote by machine. Compare it with the page.

The fine print

How we know

firsthand The author saw the places or people described.

firsthand observation: Rose's day-by-day narrative of Humboldt's 1829 expedition (Ural, Tobolsk, Barnaul, Altai, Semipalatinsk, Orenburg, Caspian at Astrakhan) with Humboldt's contributions

Research notes
  • Rose is the narrator; Humboldt's letters and observations are interleaved. Humboldt's Asie centrale (1843, French) is outside this tradition.

Why it matters

The German narrative of Humboldt's Asian journey (Humboldt's own Fragmens and Asie centrale are French); documents the Kazakh steppe, Kalmyk camps and the Chinese frontier at the Irtysh as seen in 1829.

Places named

Ural; western Siberia; Altai (Kolyvan, Zmeinogorsk); Irtysh to the Qing frontier; Orenburg; Caspian (Astrakhan)

Peoples named

Turkic and Central Asian peoples and states
Western Mongols (Oirat, Dzungar, Kalmyk)
Named only as Tartars or Tatars
Rus, Muscovy and the Russian Empire
Jurchen and Manchus (incl. the Qing as a Manchu dynasty)

Bashkirs; Kazakhs (Kirghiz); Kalmyks of Astrakhan; Tatars; Russian mining and Cossack administration; Qing frontier post visited from Ust-Kamenogorsk

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