Written source · English

John Barrow's Travels in China

The Macartney embassy's comptroller on China, its Manchu 'Tartar' rulers and Chinese society, 1792 to 1794.

Full title Travels in China

John Barrow

Read the 12 passagesOpen the original book

John Barrow (1764-1848) went to China as comptroller of Lord Macartney's embassy (1792 to 1794), spent weeks at the Yuanmingyuan palace outside Beijing setting up gifts for the Qianlong Emperor, then travelled overland to Canton. His Travels in China (London 1804, the edition in this corpus) is arranged by topic rather than as a diary: government, language, science, religion, architecture, army and people, often combative. He contrasts Manchu 'Tartars' with Chinese, quotes Macartney's journal of the visit to Jehol in Tartary, and speculates about Tartar origins and the Flood.

How they knew
Part eyewitness
Who “Tartar” means here
Mainly the Manchus who conquered China in 1644 and ruled it (the 'Tartar' dynasty, officials, soldiers and the women of Beijing), sometimes the Mongols of Genghis and Kublai; 'Tartary' is the land beyond the Great Wall.
Why read it
A sharp eyewitness contrast of Manchu and Chinese manners in 1793, and a view of who built China's great works: the Great Wall, the Grand Canal and the Jehol temples.
Watch out
Barrow was openly hostile to the Qing and to missionary praise of China, and mixes observation with sweeping theories about race, the Flood and Noah's Ark. His evidence overlaps with Staunton's and Macartney's accounts of the same embassy.

What it says: 12 passages

The Grand Canal: a Mongol work, or only a Mongol repair?

Editorial contextBarrow credits the successors of Genghis Khan with opening a waterway joining the two ends of the empire, praising it as the highest credit to the Mongol Tartars. He records the Chinese counter-claim that the Tartars only repaired older works. Elsewhere he says Kublai 'repaired' the canal.

the successors of Gengis-Khan were induced to open a direct communication between the two extremes of the empire, by means of the rivers and canals; an undertaking that reflects the highest credit on the Mongul Tartars, and which cannot fail to be regarded with admiration, as long as it shall continue to exist. The Chinese, however, say, that the Tartars only repaired the old works that were fallen into decay.

John Barrow

About Mongols (Yuan dynasty); Chinese

Temples built in Tartary by the Qianlong Emperor

Editorial contextDescribing the Qianlong Emperor, Barrow cites as proof of his piety the many splendid Buddhist temples he built and endowed in 'oriental Tartary', the grandest being the Potala-style monastery at Jehol (Chengde), where Macartney was received.

The sincerity of his faith may partly be inferred from the numerous and splendid temples he built and endowed in different parts of oriental Tartary, of which the Poo-ta-la, or convent of Budha at Gehol, is the most magnificent.

John Barrow

About Manchus (Qianlong Emperor)

Keep in mind

Barrow did not go to Jehol himself; he relies on Macartney's party.

Imperial palaces 'modelled after the form of a tent'

Editorial contextBarrow, who lived weeks inside the Yuanmingyuan, says the palaces of Beijing are a letdown after the missionaries' praise. Like ordinary Chinese houses they follow the shape of a tent: one storey, big roofs, wooden columns, paint and gilding, crowded by mean huts. He compares them to St James's Palace, and not kindly.

Those who should rely on the florid relations, in which the missionaries and some travellers have indulged in their descriptions of the palaces of Pekin and those of Yuen-min-yuen, would experience on visiting them a woful disappointment. These buildings, like the common habitations of the country, are all modelled after the form of a tent

John Barrow

About Qing (Manchu) court; Chinese builders

Keep in mind

Barrow is describing Chinese architecture in general, not a Manchu style; his tone is deliberately deflating.

The wall that divides China from Tartary

Editorial contextBarrow calls the Great Wall, built against the Tartars, China's most stupendous work: a mound of earth faced with brick or stone like Beijing's walls. On the next page he calculates that its masonry would equal all the houses of England and Scotland and credits it to the First Emperor.

But the most stupendous work of this country is the great wall that divides it from northern Tartary. It is built exactly upon the same plan as the wall of Pekin

John Barrow

About Chinese builders; 'roving Tartars' beyond

Keep in mind

Barrow did not cross the wall himself (he stayed near Beijing while Macartney went to Jehol); he relies on Captain Parish's survey for the embassy.

Show 8 more passages

Beijing's Tartar women ride astride and walk the streets

Editorial contextIn Beijing Barrow saw women in the crowds, in the lanes and on horseback riding like men, and all of them were Tartars (Manchus). Unlike Chinese women, they did not bind their feet: on the next page he describes their thick-soled shoes and painted faces, while Chinese women stayed indoors.

Women in Pekin were commonly seen among the crowd, or walking in the narrow streets, or riding on horseback, which they crossed in the same manner as the men, but they were all Tartars. They wore long silken robes, reaching down to their feet

John Barrow

About Manchu women

Under the bamboo: the Chinese cry, the Tartar is silent

Editorial contextTravelling south, Barrow saw beatings with the bamboo almost daily. He contrasts the two peoples: a Chinese cries out and thanks the official on his knees, while a Tartar bears it silently and then grumbles, disputing a Chinese official's right to flog him.

In travelling through the country, a day seldom escaped without our witnessing the application of the Pan-tsé, or bamboo… A Chinese suffering under this punishment cries out in the most piteous manner; a Tartar bears it in silence.

John Barrow

About Manchus and Chinese

Keep in mind

A generalisation from what he happened to see.

The Manchu script, 'more like the Greek'

Editorial contextBarrow describes the Manchu 'Tartar' language as alphabetic (or syllabic), inflected like European tongues, rich in B and R sounds, written in vertical columns from the left, and 'full, sonorous'. He predicted it would replace Chinese at court within a century.

the Man-tchoo Tartar character, which, if the present family continue on the throne for a century longer, will, in all probability, supplant the Chinese, or will at least become the court language. In the enunciation it is full, sonorous, and far from being disagreeable, more like the Greek than any of the oriental languages

John Barrow

About Manchus

Keep in mind

His prediction proved wrong: Manchu declined and Chinese prevailed at the Qing court.

Chinese funeral figures as a relic of Scythian burials

Editorial contextBarrow says the Chinese once buried slaves and concubines with rulers, now replaced by tinfoil figures and statues on graves. He guesses this descends from a Scythian or Tartar custom that Herodotus described, in which horses, slaves and concubines were killed and set around a king's tomb.

Formerly it was the custom to bury slaves with emperors and princes and sometimes also their concubines alive… this seems to be the remains of a Scythian or Tartar custom, which, according to Herodotus, was commonly observed at the funerals of their sovereigns, when their horses, their slaves, and their concubines were impaled alive and placed in order round the tyrant's tomb.

John Barrow

About Chinese; ancient Scythians and Tartars

Keep in mind

The Tartar link is Barrow's guess from Herodotus.

Kublai Khan imports astronomers from Balkh and Samarkand

Editorial contextBarrow credits the Mongol emperor Kublai with welcoming learned men, especially Muslims, surveying the empire, reforming the calendar, bringing astronomical instruments from Balkh and Samarkand, and repairing the canal. He adds that after the Mongols were expelled the Chinese could not keep a correct almanac.

He caused a regular survey to be taken of the whole empire. He adjusted their chronology, and corrected the errors of their astronomical observations; he imported various mathematical and astronomical instruments from Balk and Samarcand; such as were then in use among the Chinese being of a rude construction

John Barrow

About Mongols (Kublai Khan)

Keep in mind

Compiled from Chinese annals and missionary writings.

Tartars who look and dress like the Chinese

Editorial contextBarrow says the Manchu conquerors took over Chinese dress, manners and laws and, being in his view of the same stock, are hardly distinguishable from the Chinese except that they are shorter and stockier. On the following pages he contrasts their blunt, rough character with Chinese ceremoniousness.

The Tartars, by assuming the dress, the manners, and the habits of the Chinese, by being originally descended from the same stock, and by a great resemblance of features, are scarcely distinguishable from them in their external appearance. And if any physical difference exist, it seems to be in stature only

John Barrow

About Manchus

Keep in mind

The 'same stock' idea is Barrow's racial theory, not an observation.

Fair Manchus with blue eyes and bushy beards

Editorial contextBarrow noticed some Manchu men and women who were very fair, with blue eyes, straight or aquiline noses, brown hair and big beards, 'more the appearance of Greeks than of Tartars'. He guesses at Greek ancestry from Sogdiana, notes that the Qianlong Emperor boasted of descent from Genghis Khan, and stresses these were exceptions.

The Man-tchoo Tartars would appear to be composed of a mixed race: among these we observed several, both men and women, that were extremely fair and of florid complexions: some had light blue eyes, straight or aquiline noses, brown hair, immense bushy beards, and had much more the appearance of Greeks than of Tartars.

John Barrow

About Manchus

Keep in mind

Barrow himself calls these exceptions; the Greek-descent explanation is pure guesswork.

Noah's Ark grounded in Tartary

Editorial contextIn a chapter on Chinese origins Barrow argues that the 'heights of Tartary' are the highest land in the Old World, so the Ark probably first touched ground there rather than in Armenia, and that Tartars and Chinese share one origin. He suggests Noah's survivors may have followed the rivers down into China.

we may suppose that the ark, instead of resting in Armenia, first struck ground in that part of Tartary which is now inhabited by the Eleuths, as being the most elevated tract of country in the old world. From these heights large rivers flow towards every quarter of the horizon.

John Barrow

About Tartars (in general); Eleuths (Oirats)

Keep in mind

Pure speculation built on the biblical Flood and faulty geography.

The fine print

How we know

firsthand The author saw the places or people described.

Embassy participant

Research notes
  • Same Macartney embassy as Staunton and Holmes; overlapping evidence is not independent travel.

Why it matters

Buildings, government, technology and cultural observations.

Places named

China; Qing court / northern approaches

Keep exploring