Written source · English

The Russian embassy's march from Orenburg to Bukhara

A Baltic German officer's account of crossing the Kazakh steppe with a Russian embassy to Bukhara in 1820 to 1821, in a short, selective English version printed in Madras.

Full title A Journey from Orenburg to Bokhara

Georg von Meyendorff

Read the 14 passagesOpen the original book

Georg von Meyendorff, a staff officer, travelled with the Russian embassy of Alexander Negri from Orenburg across the Kazakh steppe and the Kyzylkum desert to Bukhara in 1820 to 1821. He described the Kazakh (Kirghiz) nomads, their tents, tombs, laws and feuds, the ruins along the Syr Darya, the audience with the Emir, and, from informants, the towns of Central Asia. His French book appeared in 1826. This corpus copy is the 1840 English abridgement made in Madras by Colonel William Monteith, who added his own preface and notes and an extract from Muraviev's 1819 journey to Khiva.

How they knew
Part eyewitness
Who “Tartar” means here
Following Russian usage, Meyendorff calls the Turkic peoples of Central Asia 'Tartars': Kazakhs (Kirghiz), Karakalpaks ('black cap Tartars'), Uzbeks and Turkmens, and also the Tatars of Kazan, Crimea and Siberia. He argues that the Mongols absorbed the original Tatars and took up their Turkic language, and proposes 'Central Asia' as a better name than 'Tartary'.
Why read it
Clear eyewitness scenes of Kazakh camp life, justice and clay tombs, plus an early European argument that the label 'Tartary' is misleading and should give way to 'Central Asia'.
Watch out
This is a partial English translation; Monteith says the French was obscure and he left much out, and some notes are his. The OCR of this Indian printing is rough in places. Descriptions of Tashkent, Kokand, Kulja and Samarkand are from informants.

What it says: 14 passages

CitiesBukhara20 December 1820

Entering Bukhara: earth houses and a brick palace

Editorial contextThe Russian embassy entered Bukhara through a tall gate and narrow streets of gloomy, flat-roofed earth houses to the great square with its mosques and colleges. The palace was reached through a vaulted brick corridor lined with soldiers, and the audience hall had white plaster walls and a painted plank ceiling.

after passing the gate which was very lofty, we continued our route through a narrow winding street, of gloomy houses, built of earth, and flat roofed. At last we arrived at the great square, surrounded with mosques, colleges or madrissa, and the enclosure of the palace. After dismounting, we entered a vaulted corridore built of brick

Georg von Meyendorff (translated by William Monteith, 1840)

About Uzbek emirate of Bukhara

CitiesSamarkand1820 to 1821 (from informants)

Samarkand's marble and Timur's jasper tomb

Editorial contextMeyendorff was told that Samarkand's mosques and squares were finer than Bukhara's, built of white marble from nearby quarries, with fronts of glazed tiles, and that Timur's tomb of jasper still stood though Ulugh Beg's observatory had vanished. He adds that each new Khan of Bukhara was raised three times on a bluish stone called the Kok-tash.

The mosques and squares are handsomer than those at Bokhara, they are all built of white marble of which there are quarries at a trifling distance from this ancient residence of Timour. The fronts of the houses are covered with varnished tiles like those of Bokhara … The tomb of Timour, built of Jasper is still to be seen at Samercand, but the Observatory of Olong-Bey no longer exists

Georg von Meyendorff (translated by William Monteith, 1840)

About Emirate of Bukhara; Timur and his descendants

Keep in mind

Second-hand; the embassy did not visit Samarkand. Most of Samarkand's great buildings are actually of fired brick faced with tile, so 'all built of white marble' is an exaggeration.

Khiva's mud walls and towns

Editorial contextIn the extract from Muraviev's journal that Monteith appended, Khiva appears as a walled capital of 10,000 to 15,000 people with mud walls 20 feet high, a palace and a fine mosque. The other towns of the khanate were of flat-roofed mud with a few brick mosques, and lasted well because the climate was so dry.

The walls of the city are built of mud and 20 feet in height … The buildings in all these towns are only of mud with flat roofs, some few mosques are of brick and mortar. They are however very permanent from the dryness of the climate.

Nikolai Muraviev, in William Monteith's English extract

About Uzbek khanate of Khiva

Keep in mind

Not Meyendorff's text: Muraviev's journal as extracted by the translator. The full Muraviev translation is record W027.

Clay tombs that looked like cities

Editorial contextThe nomadic Kazakhs built lasting tombs of clay mixed with chopped straw, sometimes of unburnt brick, with a small prayer chamber inside. Rich families brought craftsmen from Bukhara to make them. Near the Syr Darya they were so many that from a distance they looked like cities.

All the tombs are of clay, mixed with chopped straw, except that of Khodja, which is of unburnt bricks. In the interior of these sepulchres there is another, smaller, where the Kirghiz pray. These monuments become more numerous as you approach the Sir, and appear like cities. The rich Kirghiz frequently bring artificers from Bokhara to make their clay tombs

Georg von Meyendorff (translated by William Monteith, 1840)

About Kazakhs (Kirghiz)

Show 10 more passages

Inside a Kazakh sultan's tent

Editorial contextAt the Ilek River the embassy met its first Kazakh camp: about 50 tents of white or brown felt. Meyendorff then visited the sultan's large round tent, which mixed luxury and plain nomad gear: carpets, tiger skins, a woman's tall gold headdress set with turquoise and rubies, raw meat on hooks and leather bags of mare's milk.

the floor was covered with a carpet, wearing apparel hung on a cord, and skins of tigers were stretched against the sides; a rich diadem of gold, very high, and ornamented with turquoise and rubies, the head dress of Kirghiz women ; by their side might also be seen raw meat hanging on hooks, large leather bags of mare's milk, and some wooden vessels of different kinds

Georg von Meyendorff (translated by William Monteith, 1840)

About Kazakhs under Sultan Haroun-ghazi

Mud ruins the Kazakhs credited to the Nogais

Editorial contextAlong a dried-up river channel Meyendorff saw long earth mounds with canals and broken pottery, the remains of buildings of sun-dried brick. The Kazakhs could not say when or why they were built but guessed they were the work of the Nogais, who had held the steppe before them. The best-known ruin, Djankend, was of fired brick and said to be the seat of an Oghuz chief.

It is clear these buildings, whatever they may have been, were built with sun-burnt bricks; near these ruins are small canals about 1 toise or 6 feet broad and two deep; a great quantity of broken pottery is also to be met with. … The Kirghiz could give us no account of their use or date, but supposing they must have been erected by the Nogais

Georg von Meyendorff (translated by William Monteith, 1840)

About Kazakhs; earlier Nogais and Oghuz

Keep in mind

The attribution to the Nogais is the Kazakhs' guess, as Meyendorff says.

'Houses mean slavery'

Editorial contextMeyendorff explains why well-off Kazakhs refused to farm: they feared becoming serfs tied to the soil and liked to say they were as free as the birds. An old saying warned that they would lose their freedom once they began living in houses and farming, and the fate of the Bashkirs under Russia seemed to prove it.

It is therefore easy to imagine why Kirghiz in easy circumstances never cultivate the ground … they have an ancient tradition which says "The Kirghiz shall lose their liberty whenever they begin to live in houses

Georg von Meyendorff (translated by William Monteith, 1840)

About Kazakhs (Kirghiz)

Keep in mind

The OCR garbles the end of the saying on this page; the quote stops at 'houses' (the saying continues 'and to follow agricultural pursuits').

A horse thief's punishment

Editorial contextA Kazakh horse thief was sentenced to death, but the elders asked for mercy as a good omen for the journey with the Russians. Instead he was blackened with soot, tied to a horse's tail and whipped by a laughing crowd, while his own horse was slaughtered and shared out among the onlookers.

The robber, half naked, having about his neck some stripes of black felt, was forced by two men on horseback who carried large whips, to run to the nearest tent, where his face was blackened with soot and marched through a group of Kirghiz; they then tied him to the tail of a horse, and forced him to hold a cord between his teeth.

Georg von Meyendorff (translated by William Monteith, 1840)

About Kazakhs under Sultan Haroun-ghazi

Songs to the moon by the Syr Darya

Editorial contextWintering among the reeds of the Syr Darya was the Kazakhs' great wish. Meyendorff describes men sitting half the night on a stone, gazing at the moon and singing sad improvised songs, and regrets never hearing the heroic songs that only professional bards performed.

The Kirghiz often pass half the night seated on a stone, gazing at the moon, and singing melancholy impromptu words to airs not less so. They also have historical songs, which celebrate the great actions of their heroes, but these are chaunted only by professional singers, and I greatly regret not having heard them.

Georg von Meyendorff (translated by William Monteith, 1840)

About Kazakhs (Kirghiz)

A khan who rules by consent

Editorial contextA Kazakh khan held power of life and death, Meyendorff says, but his only real check was public opinion: unhappy followers simply rode off and chose another leader. A khan kept power through courage, gifts and a friendly mullah to interpret the law.

The khan has in fact the power of life and death among the Kirghiz, who have no security against his tyranny, except public opinion, and no where is it so powerful as among the pastoral tribes. The discontented party quickly desert an unjust judge, and choose another for themselves.

Georg von Meyendorff (translated by William Monteith, 1840)

About Kazakhs (Kirghiz)

The nameCentral Asia1826 (writing about the 13th century onward)

How Tatars and Mongols merged

Editorial contextMeyendorff offers his theory of the name: Genghis Khan's Mongols conquered the Tatars, who were more numerous, and took up their Turkic language. From that mixture, he says, came all the peoples called 'Mongol Tartars', and he sees no real difference in looks between a Kazakh, an Uzbek, a Turkmen and a Tatar of Kazan or Crimea.

The Asiatic people to whom the Russians give the name of Tartars, have the nose slightly flattened, the cheek bones prominent, little beard on the chin, and small eyes … Gengis Khan, at the head of the Mongols, subjugated the Tartars, who became incorporated with his army, and those of his successors. As they were the most numerous, the conquerors adopted the Turkish language, barbarous as it was

Georg von Meyendorff (translated by William Monteith, 1840)

About Tatars and Mongols; Kazakhs, Uzbeks, Turkmens, Kazan and Crimean Tatars

Keep in mind

Meyendorff's own theory, mixed with racial typing of the period.

Call it 'Central Asia', not 'Tartary'

Editorial contextMeyendorff objects that the usual map label 'Tartary' covers lands never settled by Tartars while leaving out places where Tartar (Turkic) was actually spoken. A country, he argues, should only be named after a people who live there, so he proposes 'Central Asia' instead.

If in geography we give to a country the name of a people, it should be conditional on such people inhabiting that country. It appears to me then, that Central Asia would be a more appropriate name to introduce in lieu of Tartary, since I have found it more correct, and more geographical.

Georg von Meyendorff (translated by William Monteith, 1840)

About Peoples of Central Asia

Keep in mind

The translator notes that this chapter was obscure even in French.

'We are Kazakhs, not Kirghiz'

Editorial contextMeyendorff noticed that the steppe people the Russians called Kirghiz never used that name themselves. They called themselves Kazakh, which some said meant 'horseman' and others 'warrior', and they believed the Bashkirs had given them the name Kirghiz.

they never make use of this name among themselves ; they invariably style themselves Kasak ; which, according to some, signifies horseman, and to others warrior. They say the Bachkirs call them Kirghiz, but are ignorant from whence the name is derived

Georg von Meyendorff (translated by William Monteith, 1840)

About Kazakhs (called Kirghiz by Russians)

Strange talesOsh1820 to 1821 (from informants)

Solomon's rock at Osh

Editorial contextFrom informants Meyendorff heard of Takht-i-Suleiman, the rock above Osh, where tradition said Solomon had sacrificed a camel and a stone still showed the blood. Sick people lay on a flat stone there hoping to be cured. He treats the story as superstition and notes that reports of ruins there were disputed.

Tradition states that Solomon sacrificed a camel on this spot; where the blood is shewn on a stone still perfectly red. It is, however, particularly frequented by people suffering rheumatic or other pain ; who are said to be cured by extending themselves on a flat stone near the building.

Georg von Meyendorff (translated by William Monteith, 1840)

About Pilgrims of the Ferghana valley

Keep in mind

A local legend reported at second hand.

The fine print

How we know

firsthand The author saw the places or people described.

Embassy participant

Research notes
  • English version associated with William Monteith is selective; do not treat as complete French text.

Why it matters

Steppe travel and Bukharan institutions.

Places named

Kazakh steppe; Bukhara

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