Written source · English

An envoy's overland journey from Moscow to Peking

Peter the Great's envoy Isbrand Ides describes the peoples, towns and ruins between Moscow and Beijing, 1692 to 1695.

Full title Three Years Travels from Moscow Over-land to China

Evert Ysbrants Ides

Read the 18 passagesOpen the original bookRide the route

Evert Ysbrants (Isbrand) Ides, a Holstein-born merchant in Russian service, led Peter the Great's embassy to the Kangxi Emperor of China. He left Moscow in March 1692, crossed the Urals, Siberia and Dauria, reached Peking in November 1693 and was home in 1695. He wrote down what he saw of each people on the road, and added what guides, Cossacks and Chinese officials told him. The book appeared in Dutch in 1704 under the direction of Nicolaes Witsen; this corpus copy is the English translation of 1706, which also annexes 'A Short Description of China', said to be by a Chinese author, with European commentary.

How they knew
Part eyewitness
Who “Tartar” means here
A catch-all for the non-Russian peoples of Siberia (even the Ugric Voguls, the Muslim Tatars of Tobolsk and Tyumen, the Bashkirs and the Baraba), plus the Mongols ('Mongalian Tartars'), the Kalmyks ('West Tartars') and the Manchu rulers of China ('East Tartars').
Why read it
A first-hand look at the lands where Russia and Qing China had just met: wooden Tatar villages and a mosque at Tobolsk, pole-and-felt tents, ruined walled towns with carved brick towers in Inner Mongolia, and a Manchu 'Tartar' emperor serving kumis at court.
Watch out
Ides uses 'Tartar' very loosely and takes his history from guides and Chinese informants, with some mistakes. The book was shaped by the Dutch editor Witsen, and the annexed description of China is not Ides's own work. The OCR prints the long s as f.

What it says: 18 passages

Stone lions, giant tortoises and a vanished Tartar king

Editorial contextInside the ruined city lay heaps of brick, life-size stone statues, gravestones, stone lions and huge stone tortoises, and hares ran in through the four empty gates. Ides guessed a khan had once lived there. His Chinese companions said that many centuries earlier a Tartar king called Utaichan ruled here until a Chinese king drove him out. In the hills nearby he saw brick turrets that he took for old Tartar tombs.

Several large heaps of Bricks lay in the City, besides a great many Stone Statues, as big as the Life, of Men, and Idols, Grave-Stones, great Stone Lions, and Tortoises of an uncommon largeness … The Chinese relate that many hundred Years past Utaichan, a Tartarian King, governed here, but was conquered and driven out of his Country by a Chinese King.

Evert Ysbrants Ides (English translation, 1706)

About A 'Tartarian King' of Chinese tradition

Keep in mind

The ruins are eyewitness; the story of King Utaichan is Chinese oral tradition relayed through interpreters and cannot be matched to a known ruler.

Tobolsk: Russian hilltop, Tatar lower town

Editorial contextIdes reached Tobolsk, the capital of Siberia, on 1 July 1692. The upper town on the hill was Russian, strengthened by a stone monastery with watchtowers; the lower town along the Irtysh belonged to Muslim Tatars and Bukharan merchants who traded up the river to the Kalmyks and on to China. He adds that several thousand Tatars served the tsar as horsemen.

Tobolesk: Which City, besides its own strength, is re-inforced with a large Stone Cloyster, with high Watch-Towers, which may pass for a Fortification. This place is situate on a high Hill … the bottom of which along by the River Rhitisch, is inhabited by the Mahometan Tartars and Buchars, which drive a great Trade up the Rhitisch or Irtis, into the Kalmakian Territories, and carry their Goods to China.

Evert Ysbrants Ides (English translation, 1706)

About Muslim Siberian Tatars and Bukharans

CitiesTobolsk1580s (told in 1692)

How Yermak took the Tatar prince's town

Editorial contextIdes retells the conquest of Siberia about a century after it happened. The Cossack outlaw Yermak, backed by the Stroganov family, sailed up the rivers, razed Tyumen and took the town where a twelve-year-old 'Tartarian Prince' lived, sending him captive to Moscow. The prince's grandson, Ides says, still lived in Moscow with the title 'Siberian Czarevitz'. Yermak later drowned in his heavy armour during a Tatar night attack.

advanced up the River Tobol to Tobolska, where then resided a Tartarian Prince, aged about twelve Years, whose Name was Altanai Kutzjumowitz (whose Grandson at present lives at Muscow, and is honoured with the Title of the Siberian Czarewitz.) This City he likewise attacqued and took with small loss, after which he carried the Prince Prisoner to Muscow

Evert Ysbrants Ides (English translation, 1706)

About Siberian Tatars (the Khanate of Sibir)

Keep in mind

Hearsay a century after the events. The Tatar capital Yermak took in 1582 was Isker (Sibir); Tobolsk itself was founded by the Russians nearby in 1587, so Ides compresses the story.

Peking's inner city belongs to the Tartars

Editorial contextDuring the New Year festival Ides noticed that women rode openly through the streets on donkeys and in carts, some ladies smoking pipes in public. He explains this by the fact that the walled inner city of Peking was lived in by 'Tartars', meaning the conquering Manchus, while the Chinese had to live around the walls and in the suburbs, where the markets were.

The Women never appear in publick in all China, except the Province of Peking only, and more especially the City, which is inhabited by Tartars; the Chinese being obliged to live all about the City Wall, and the Suburbs, where all the chief Markets, and publick Places of Sale, are.

Evert Ysbrants Ides (English translation, 1706)

About Manchus ('Tartars') and Han Chinese

Show 14 more passages

Log houses with windows of ice

Editorial contextThe Vogul 'Tartars' lived in square log rooms like Russian peasant huts, with an open hearth instead of an oven. Once the fire burned down to coals, they sealed the smoke-hole with a sheet of ice, which kept the heat in and let daylight through. Wide benches around the walls served as seats by day and beds by night.

Their Dwellings are quadrangular wooden Rooms, like those of the Russian Peasants; only instead of Ovens they use Hearths, on which they burn Wood, and dress their Victuals. The Smoak-hole which is in the Roof, is covered with Ice, as soon as the Wood is burnt to a Coal, which keeps the warmth in the Room, and the light strikes through the bright and clear Ice.

Evert Ysbrants Ides (English translation, 1706)

About Voguls (Mansi), called Siberian Tartars

Hundreds of fallen stone castles in Dauria

Editorial contextTravelling from Nerchinsk toward the Argun, Ides saw hundreds of old, half-fallen castles of rough stone scattered through the valleys. His Tungus guides said warriors built them long ago, when Mongols and 'Western Tartars' raided the old kingdom of Nieucheu (the Jurchen or Manchu country). Iron-bound wagon wheels and millstones had also been dug up, which Ides took as a sign that a settled people once farmed and worked there.

In several scattered places in the Valleys, I observed hundreds of old, and partly fallen Castles, built with Rock-stones, which, as the Tunguzians told me, were built by several Warriours long since, when the Mongalian and Western Tartars made joint incursions into this Kingdom of Nieucheu. … And it is not long since that Waggon Wheels bound with Iron, and large Milstones were found in this Country

Evert Ysbrants Ides (English translation, 1706)

About Tungus informants; Mongol and 'Western Tartar' raiders

Keep in mind

Ides saw the ruins himself, but the story of who built them comes from his Tungus guides, and the idea that the Nieucheu people once lived there is his own guess.

A carved brick tower in a dead city

Editorial contextAfter days of travel without seeing a single house, the embassy passed two deserted walled cities. At the second, Taimingzingh, stood two towers, the larger an octagon faced in brick, with carved stone panels telling 'several Histories' set on all eight sides. The description fits the octagonal brick pagodas that still stand at ruined towns of the Khitan Liao dynasty (907-1125) in this part of Inner Mongolia, though Ides himself gives no date or builder.

we reached another old desolate City, called Taimingzingh, fortified with a square Wall, and necessary Bulwarks: There are in it two Towers or Turrets, one very high and the other less: The largest was an Octagon, whose Front was built with Brick, and about ten Fathom from the Ground there was on each of the eight sides Stones placed, in which were carved several Histories.

Evert Ysbrants Ides (English translation, 1706)

About Unknown builders (a 'Tartarian King' in Chinese tradition)

Keep in mind

Linking the ruin to the Liao is a modern comparison, not something Ides says, and which ruined town he saw is uncertain.

Haloed figures: 'built by Christians'?

Editorial contextLooking at the carvings on the ruined tower, Ides saw kings seated cross-legged, crowned queens with folded hands, and attendants with rays around their heads 'as Saints are commonly painted'. From the haloes he concluded that Christians must have built the tower. Other panels showed warriors with pikes 'after the Chinese manner' and figures with 'hideous Diabolical Visages'. Seated, haloed, crowned figures with guardians are typical of Buddhist pagoda reliefs, so this is Ides's own guess, not a local tradition.

Others shew us several Figures seeming to represent Queens folding their Hands together, with their Servants on each side: The Queens having Crowns on their Heads, and the other being adorned with Rays or Lustres, as Saints are commonly painted, and also folding their Hands: all which hints that this Tower must needs be built by Christians.

Evert Ysbrants Ides (English translation, 1706)

About Unknown builders

Keep in mind

The carvings are eyewitness; the Christian builders are Ides's inference from haloes.

Inside a Tatar mosque at Tobolsk

Editorial contextWith the governor's help, Ides was allowed into a Tatar mosque, which he says outsiders were normally not shown. It was plain: large open windows and carpets on the floor, nothing more. Worshippers left their shoes at the door and sat in rows; the imam wore white calico and a white turban. He adds that the chief mullah was an Arab, and that anyone who could read Arabic was highly respected.

Metschets, called by other Authors Mosques, or Churches, had large Windows round them, all which were set open: The Floor was covered with Tapistry, besides which there was no other Ornament. All Persons at their entrance leave their Shoes or Slippers at the Door … The chief Priest sat there, in a white Calico Habit, and a white Turkish Turbant on his Head.

Evert Ysbrants Ides (English translation, 1706)

About Muslim Siberian Tatars

Jurten: tents that pack up and move

Editorial contextAround Nerchinsk the mounted Tungus lived in portable huts they called jurten (yurts): a frame of jointed wooden poles that could be packed and carried whenever they moved, covered with hair and other material, with a smoke-hole at the top and the fire in the middle. Ides says religion was much alike 'throughout all great Tartary' up to the Mongols.

They all live in Hutts, called in their Language Jurten, the inside of which is composed of wooden Poles jointed together, that whenever they are willing to remove their Dwellings, as they frequently do, they may conveniently pack and carry them altogether. This wooden work when set up is thatched all over with Hair and Rubbish, except only the Smoak-hole left open at the top.

Evert Ysbrants Ides (English translation, 1706)

About Horse Tungus (Evenks) of 'great Tartary'

Summer huts, winter log houses on the Baraba steppe

Editorial contextThe Baraba people between the Irtysh and the Ob lived in villages of low wooden houses 'like those of the Siberian Tartars', heated by an open fire with a smoke-hole that was stopped once the wood burned down. In summer they moved into tall huts. They farmed oats, barley, millet and buckwheat and paid tribute in furs to both the tsar and the Kalmyk khan. Ides calls them insolent and villainous, a judgment coloured by frontier politics.

they live in low built wooden Houses, like those of the Siberian Tartars; they are not at all acquainted with the use of Stoves or Ovens … Their Houses are ranged into Villages; they set up high Hutts in the Summer, but in Winter retire into their warm wooden dwellings. They are very much addicted to Agriculture, and sow Oats, Barley, Millet, and Buck-wheat.

Evert Ysbrants Ides (English translation, 1706)

About Barabinsky (Baraba), whom Ides calls a sort of Kalmyks

Keep in mind

Ides's own route followed the Irtysh and Ob rivers north of the Baraba steppe, so this part of his closing survey is probably based on reports.

The emperor serves kumis in a gold cup

Editorial contextAt his audience in Peking, after questions translated by the Jesuit Gerbillon, Ides was handed a gold cup of 'Tartarian Liquor called Kumis' by the Kangxi Emperor himself, through the viceroy. The attendants told him it was a spirit made from mare's milk. His whole retinue was then served the same drink. The steppe drink had a place of honour at the Manchu court.

Upon which he gave the Viceroy a Gold Cup of Tartarian Liquor called Kumis, in order to hand it to me; which with due respect I accepted, and having tasted, returned it. This Kumis according to the report of the Attendants is a sort of Brandy distilled from Mares Milk.

Evert Ysbrants Ides (English translation, 1706)

About The Manchu court of the Kangxi Emperor

Praying once a year is enough

Editorial contextIdes lodged a night with the Voguls and asked about their religion. Once a year they go into the woods, kill one animal of each kind, hang the carcass on a tree and bow to it, then feast; and they saw no reason to pray more often. On the same page he notes that a good hunting dog was laid to rest in its own little wooden hut raised on four props of earth.

Their whole Religious Worship consists in making an Offering according to their Custom once each Year: When they go in crouds into the Woods, and kill one of each Species of Beasts … they flea off the Skins, hang up the Carcass on a Tree, and fall prostrate to the Earth, and in their way, Pray to it … What need of Praying any oftner than once a Year, say they?

Evert Ysbrants Ides (English translation, 1706)

About Voguls (Mansi), called Siberian Tartars

Keep in mind

Based on one night's conversation through interpreters.

Distilling brandy from mare's milk

Editorial contextThe same people drank water, or black brick tea boiled with mare's milk and butter, and they distilled a clear spirit from mare's milk called arak. Ides records the method: boil fresh milk, sour it with old milk, stir it hourly, then distil it twice in sealed pots joined by a reed. He notes that Siberian cows gave no milk once the calf was weaned, which is why mare's milk was so important.

They also draw off a sort of Brandy from Mares-Milk, which they call Kunnen, or Arak, and is distilled in the following manner. The New-Milk is first boiled, then put into a Fat, to which is added some Stale-Milk, and this mixture is stirred every Hour … then it is fit to drink, being as clear, and strong, as Malt Spirits, and very soon intoxicates.

Evert Ysbrants Ides (English translation, 1706)

About Horse Tungus (Evenks) of 'great Tartary'

A wooden idol dressed like a Russian woman

Editorial contextBaraba hunters took a small carved wooden idol called a Saltan into the forest on its own sled, dressed in bright cloth in imitation of Russian women's clothes. The first catch was offered to it. After a good season they hung the idol all over with sables and other furs, which were left to rot, because selling them was thought an unforgivable crime. Ides regrets the waste of fine skins.

When they go into the Woods in order to hunt furred Animals, they carry their Saltans along with them; which is a rough Image, as well carved in Wood as they can do it with a Knife: This they cloath in a Stuff dress of all sorts of colours, in imitation of the Habit of the Russian Women

Evert Ysbrants Ides (English translation, 1706)

About Barabinsky (Baraba)

Keep in mind

Ides's own route followed the Irtysh and Ob rivers north of the Baraba steppe, so this part of his closing survey is probably based on reports.

The 'first Siberian Tartars' are Voguls

Editorial contextAs soon as he crosses from Europe into Asia, Ides meets his first 'Siberian Tartars' on the Chusovaya river and names them Wogulski. These are the Voguls, today's Mansi, who speak an Ugric language and are not Turkic Tatars at all. The passage shows how 'Tartar' worked for travellers: it meant almost any native, non-Russian people east of the Urals.

we came too, and touched at a pleasant Shoar on the 25th of May, amongst the first Siberian Tartars, called Wogulski. … But the Wogulskian Tartars to which this River led us, are stupid Heathens

Evert Ysbrants Ides (English translation, 1706)

About Voguls (Mansi), called Siberian Tartars

Keep in mind

Ides's scorn ('stupid Heathens') is his own; he spent one night among them.

The emperor of China is an 'East Tartar'

Editorial contextIdes calls the Kangxi Emperor 'King of China and Tartary' and 'an East Tartar, or Mongalian', and says he favours his own people over the Chinese. On the next page he adds that a Chinese man seeking high office had to 'naturalize himself a Mansur or Tartar', and that most people inside Peking's walls were Tartars. Here 'Tartar' means the Manchus.

The present … or King of China and Tartary, is an East Tartar, or Mongalian, born in Nieucheu, near the River Sagahen Oula, or Amoer: He governs his Subjects very well, tho' he doth not heartily love the Chinese, but on all occasions prefers his own Nation before them

Evert Ysbrants Ides (English translation, 1706)

About Manchus (called East Tartars and Mongalians)

Keep in mind

Two errors: the Manchus were not Mongols, and Kangxi was born in Beijing in 1654, not in Manchuria near the Amur.

Mongolia: land of the race of Gog and Magog

Editorial contextSketching the borders of the Mongol lands from Lake Khövsgöl to the Argun, Ides says that this is what 'hath been formerly said' to be the realm of the race of Gog and Magog, the wild nations of the Bible and the Alexander legends. He then gives an accurate current picture: three ruling brothers, the chief being the Khutughtu, the Buddhist high priest, who had placed themselves under the Chinese emperor after suffering from the Kalmyk (Dzungar) ruler in 1688 and 1689.

is the circumference and boundary of the whole Mongalian Territories, or as hath been formerly said of the Jurisdiction of the Race of Gog and Magog, which is governed by three Regents, the chief of which is the Kuttugt, who is also the High Priest of the Nation.

Evert Ysbrants Ides (English translation, 1706)

About Khalkha Mongols

Keep in mind

Ides repeats the old Gog and Magog label as something said by earlier writers, not as his own claim.

The fine print

How we know

firsthand The author saw the places or people described.

Envoy / traveler

Research notes
  • Includes material associated with other contributors; distinguish attached descriptions.

Why it matters

Embassy itinerary through Great Tartary; towns, peoples and travel conditions.

Places named

Siberia; Mongolia; China

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