Written source · German

Eversmann's journey from Orenburg to Bukhara, 1820 to 1821

A German naturalist who had learned Tatar in Siberia rides with the Russian embassy across the Kazakh steppe to Bukhara and records tombs, ruins, steppe law and city life.

Full title Journey from Orenburg to Bukhara, with a vocabulary of the Afghan language, two plates and the plan of Bukhara (Berlin 1823)

Eduard Eversmann

Read the 10 passagesOpen the original book

Eduard Eversmann, a German physician and naturalist, spent several years in south-western Siberia learning the Tatar language and Muslim customs so that he could travel into Central Asia. In autumn 1820 he attached himself as a merchant to the Russian embassy sent from Orenburg to Bukhara, crossed the Kazakh (Kirghiz) steppe, the Aral shore, the Syr Darya and the Kyzylkum desert, and lived about three months in Bukhara, lodging in the Tatar caravanserai. The book (Berlin 1823), edited by the zoologist Lichtenstein from his diary and letters, mixes geology and natural history with close notes on graves, ruined forts, Kazakh justice and Bukharan buildings, markets and peoples, and ends with a Russian-German-Tatar word list. Corpus copy: the 1823 first edition (Google scan).

How they knew
Eyewitness
Who “Tartar” means here
'Tataren' are the Muslim Turkic subjects of Russia (Kazan, Orenburg and Siberian Tatars) who traded in Bukhara, and also the vanished earlier lords of the steppe to whom the Kazakhs credit old tombs and ruins. The Kazakhs themselves, whom he calls Kirghiz, are never called Tatars; 'Tatar language' is his name for the Turkic speech he learned in Siberia.
Why read it
A sober eyewitness who says exactly what steppe tombs and ruins were built of (fired and sun-dried brick, clay, rubble, heaped stones) and who warns that the Kazakhs of his day credited every unknown ruin to 'the Tatars'.
Watch out
Several grave stories are Kazakh hearsay passed on by caravan men, and his tone towards Kazakhs and especially Bukharans is openly contemptuous. The scan has no page numbers in its metadata: printed page numbers here are read from the running heads on the pages.

What it says: 10 passages

Every unknown ruin 'comes from the Tatars'

Editorial contextRiding through saxaul woods, the caravan passed ruins of 'an earlier town or fortress'. Eversmann saw walls of sun-dried bricks four to five inches thick mixed with some fired ones, two window openings with pointed arches in the largest building, three rings of walls now slumped into banks, and many unglazed potsherds. The Kazakhs called the place Kutschuk and said the Tatars built it, but he warns that they credit everything unknown in their steppe to the Tatars simply because the Tatars lived there just before them.

These ruins, which were probably once a fortress, are called Kutschuk by the Kirghiz and are supposed, as they claim, to come from the Tatars; but their statement is not to be relied on at all: they make everything that is unknown to them in their steppe come from the Tatars, because these lived there immediately before them.

Working translation

Original wording

Diese Ruinen, die wahrscheinlich früher eine Festung gewesen sind, werden von den Kirgisen Kutschuk genannt, und sollen, wie sie behaupten, von den Tataren herstammen; aber auf ihre Aussage ist durchaus nicht zu bauen, sie lassen alles, was ihnen in ihrer Steppe unbekannt ist, von den Tataren herstammen, weil diese zunächst vor ihnen dort gehaust haben.

Eduard Eversmann

About Kazakhs (Kirghiz) as informants; 'Tatars' as the supposed builders

The Tatar caravanserai of Bukhara

Editorial contextEversmann entered Bukhara through the gate as a merchant and lodged in the Tatar caravanserai (p. 65). He explains that each trading nation kept to its own serai: Indians in the Indian serais, Tatars in the Tatar one, merchants of Kokand and Kashgar in the 'Chinese' one. Caravans from Troitsk, Orsk, Orenburg and from Astrakhan by way of Khiva brought English and Russian cloth, calico and metalware, handled mostly by Bukharans, Russian Tatars and Armenians.

For the most part these various nations keep together as much as possible; so, for example, in the so-called Indian serais live almost only Indians, in the Tatar serai Tatars, in the Chinese one merchants from Kokand and Kashgar, and so on. … The people trading are mostly Bukharans, then (Russian) Tatars, and from Astrakhan, Armenians

Working translation

Original wording

Meistentheils halten sich diese verschiedene Nationen so viel wie möglich beisammen; so wohnen z. B. in den sogenannten indischen Seraien fast nur Indier, im tatarischen Serai, Tataren, im chinesischen, Kaufleute aus Kokan und Kaschkar, etc. … Die handelnden Personen sind grösstentheils Bucharen, dann (russische) Tataren, und von Astrachan, Armenier

Eduard Eversmann

About Russian Tatars as merchants; Indians, Kokandis, Kashgaris, Armenians

A city of clay and a citadel on a man-made hill

Editorial contextBukhara, three to four versts across, was ringed by a clay wall with loopholes; its streets were so narrow that a laden camel scraped the houses. Most houses were of clay, richer ones partly of brick, one or two storeys high, flat-roofed and windowless to the street. The khan's citadel, the Ark, stood on a clay hill about 60 feet high which Eversmann calls a colossal work of human hands, brick-faced below and clay above, with a palace of glazed brick on top. He does not call Bukhara a Tatar city; it is included here for its plain account of how a great Central Asian city of the time was built.

The dwelling houses are mostly built of clay, the richer ones partly of brick too, of one and two storeys, but no higher. … The khan's castle (called the Ark) stands high on a great clay hill about 60 feet high, which is a colossal work of human hands; it takes almost half an hour to walk round it; the lower half is of brick, at least on the outside, the upper of clay

Working translation

Original wording

Die Wohnhäuser sind grösstentheils von Lehm aufgebaut, reichere auch zum Theil von Ziegelsteinen, von einem und zwei Stockwerken, aber nicht höher. … Die Burg des Chans (Aerk genannt) liegt erhaben auf einem grossen gegen 60 Fuss hohen Lehmhügel, der ein kolossales Menschenwerk ist; man braucht fast eine halbe Stunde dazu, ihn zu umgehen; die untere Hälfte ist, wenigstens ausserhalb, von Ziegelsteinen, die obere von Lehm

Eduard Eversmann

About Bukharans (Uzbek-ruled emirate)

Keep in mind

Bukhara was an Uzbek emirate, not a 'Tatar' state; Eversmann uses 'Tatar' only for the Russian merchants there and for the language.

A brick tomb of a 'Tatar prince' on the steppe

Editorial contextCamping by a spring-fed stream called Tambutak, Eversmann examined the tomb that gave the stream its name. It was a hollow brick cube about 15 feet square and 10 feet high, with thick walls, built with fired bricks outside and only sun-dried clay bricks inside, and a square hole left in each side. A precise, measured description of a modest real building credited locally to the Tatars.

bears the name Tambutak, from the burial place of a Tatar prince lying close by, which consists of a square built of bricks, about 15 feet long and broad and 10 feet high; inside it is hollow … the outer bricks are fired, the inner ones only dried from clay; on each side of this square a square hole has been left.

Working translation

Original wording

führt den Namen Tambutak, von dem dicht daran gelegenen Begräbniss eines Tataren-Fürsten, das in einem, von Ziegelsteinen gemauerten, ungefähr 15 Fuss langen und breiten, und 10 Fuss hohen Viereck besteht; inwendig ist es hohl … die äussern Ziegelsteine sind gebrannt, die innern nur von Lehm getrocknet; an jeder Seite dieses Vierecks ist ein viereckiges Loch gelassen.

Eduard Eversmann (edited by Lichtenstein, 1823)

About An unnamed 'Tatar prince' (as named by the caravan's Kazakh guides)

Keep in mind

The attribution to a 'Tatar prince' is the local name, not something Eversmann could check.

Show 6 more passages

Domed steppe tombs built by hired Bukharans

Editorial contextEversmann describes the typical larger Kazakh tomb of the southern steppe: a round building with a domed cupola topped by a small pillar, a projecting entrance with a pointed arch and four attached corner pillars. They were mostly of unfired brick, sometimes rubble, all quite new, and built by Bukharans whom the Kazakhs paid in sheep or grain. He mentions them only because Europeans imagined such things very differently; poorer graves where there is no stone were gabled vaults of clay. A footnote says Pallas drew the 'Tatar tombs' of southern Russia in just the same way.

They are mostly built of unfired bricks, sometimes also of rubble stone. All these tombs are very new and were built by Bukharans, whose labour the Kirghiz pay either in sheep or in grain … The whole thing is, moreover, a most wretched piece of work, and I mention it only because in Europe people imagine such things quite differently from what they really are.

Working translation

Original wording

Sie sind grösstentheils von ungebrannten Ziegeln aufgebaut, mitunter auch von Bruchsteinen. Alle diese Grabmähler sind sehr neu und von Bucharen aufgebaut, denen ihre Mühe von den Kirgisen entweder mit Schaafen oder mit Getraide bezahlt wird … Das Ganze ist übrigens ein höchst erbärmliches Machwerk, und ich führe es nur bloss deshalb an, weil man sich in Europa dergleichen Dinge ganz anders vorstellt, als sie wirklich sind.

Eduard Eversmann

About Kazakhs (Kirghiz) as patrons; Bukharans as builders

Keep in mind

The dismissive judgement of the workmanship is Eversmann's taste; the facts about materials and builders are his observation and inquiry.

A burial mound heaped up from coat-tails full of earth

Editorial contextOn a high rise Eversmann found a man-made sand mound about 150 paces round, hollowed in the middle, with smaller stone heaps around it. His Kazakh caravan leader said a Tatar prince lay beneath it and that each of his people had carried a coat-tail full of earth to build it, with the prince's sons buried around him. Eversmann adds his own observation that Tatars, like the Kazakhs of his day, buried their dead on the highest ground.

When I asked our caravan leader, he said that a Tatar prince lay buried under the great mound; every one of his people had carried a coat-tail full of earth there, and from this the mound had arisen; round about, he went on, lay his sons. … It was in general a common custom among the Tatars, as it still is now among the Kirghiz, to bury their dead on the highest places.

Working translation

Original wording

Als ich unseren Karavanführer befragte, sagte er, dass unter dem grossen Hügel ein tatarischer Fürst begraben läge, ein jeder seines Volks habe einen Rockzipfel voll Erde dorthin getragen, und daraus sei dieser Hügel entstanden; rund umher sagte er weiter, lägen seine Söhne. … es war überhaupt bei den Tataren, so wie auch noch itzt bei den Kirgisen ein allgemeiner Gebrauch ihre Todten auf den höchsten Gegenden zu begraben

Eduard Eversmann, reporting his Kazakh caravan leader

About A 'Tatar prince' of local legend; Kazakhs (Kirghiz)

Keep in mind

The coat-tail story is a guide's legend; only the mound's size and shape are Eversmann's observation.

Kazakhs bury their dead beside old 'Tatar' tombs

Editorial contextEversmann accepts that the Kazakhs really had opened the old graves, not for treasure but to learn whether Muslims of old times lay there. Such places were holy to them, and they now buried their own dead only there, so that wherever a 'Tatar tomb' stands, Kazakh graves cluster around it. It shows how a later people claimed older monuments as part of its own sacred landscape.

That the Kirghiz really dug up the graves is easy to believe, not in order to look for treasure, but to learn whether Muslims of old times lay buried there, for such places are holy to them and only there do they now bury their dead: wherever one finds a Tatar tomb, one also sees Kirghiz graves all around it.

Working translation

Original wording

Dass die Kirgisen die Gräber wirklich aufgegraben haben, ist wohl zu glauben, nicht etwa um Schätze zu suchen, sondern um zu wissen ob dort Muhamedaner aus alten Zeiten begraben lägen, denn solche Stellen sind ihnen heilig und nur dort begraben sie jetzt ihre Todten: überall wo man ein tatarisches Grabmahl findet, sieht man auch rund umher Kirgisische Gräber.

Eduard Eversmann

About Kazakhs (Kirghiz); earlier 'Tatar' dead

A horse thief spared, his horse executed and eaten

Editorial contextAt the camps of Sultan Arungasi, Eversmann watched the punishment of a horse thief whose life the sultan spared, hoping the mercy would buy luck for his journey. The thief, blackened with charcoal and half naked, was chased twice round the tents, once with a rope in his mouth tied to a horse's tail; then his horse's throat was cut in his place and the crowd carved it up alive for supper. Eversmann then lists the sultan's four laws: death for stealing livestock, a blood price of 500 to 2000 sheep for murder, both ears cut off for stealing a hobble, and whipping for small offences.

When this had been done, his horse's throat was cut instead of his, and each of the crowd of watching Kirghiz cut himself a piece of meat from it while it was still twitching, to make himself a tasty meal in the evening, and not a scrap of the horse was left.

Working translation

Original wording

Nachdem dieses geschehen war, wurde seinem Pferde statt seiner der Hals abgeschnitten, und jeder aus der Menge der zusehenden Kirgisen schnitt sich, da es noch zappelte, ein Stück Fleisch davon ab, um sich Abends ein leckeres Mahl daraus zu bereiten, und kein Restchen blieb vom Pferde zurück.

Eduard Eversmann

About Kazakhs (Kirghiz) of Sultan Arungasi's auls

Keep in mind

Eversmann calls the ceremony silly; the laws he lists are 'as far as I know' his informants' summary.

Uzbek speech: a Persian-laced variety of 'Tatar'

Editorial contextCounting the peoples of Bukhara, Eversmann reckons Uzbeks at a quarter and Tajiks at three quarters of the townspeople. He calls the Uzbeks' language a variety of Tatar, known as Türki, which the Tatars can understand, though heavily mixed with Persian; Persian is the main language of the city. It shows how a Tatar-speaker from Siberia heard the Turkic languages of Central Asia as one family.

The language of the Uzbeks is a variety of the Tatar language which is called Türki, so that the Tatars can understand it: but it is much mixed with Persian words. The Tajiks speak Persian, and this is the main language here, for when an Uzbek speaks with a Tajik, Persian is spoken.

Working translation

Original wording

Die Sprache der Usbeken ist eine Abart der tatarischen Sprache, welche Türki genannt wird, so dass die Tataren sie verstehen können: sie ist aber sehr mit persischen Wörtern gemischt. Die Tadschiken sprechen persisch, und dieses ist hier die Hauptsprache, denn wenn ein Usbek mit einem Tadschik spricht, so wird persisch gesprochen.

Eduard Eversmann

About Uzbeks, Tajiks and Jews of Bukhara; Tatars of Russia

Keep in mind

The same page carries a harsh tirade against the Bukharans' character: prejudice, not observation.

Strange talesKuvandzhur stream, Kazakh steppe north of the Aral Sealate October 1820 (story set a century or more earlier)

Skeletons sitting on horseback in the old graves

Editorial contextNear an old burial ground of hollow-topped stone mounds, Kazakhs told Eversmann that a hundred or more years earlier they had opened some graves to learn whether Muslims or unbelievers lay there. They said they found human skeletons sitting on horseback with silver sabres and stirrups, and women with necklaces of pearls and precious stones laid in their mouths. The Kazakhs believed the dead were Kalmyks; Eversmann classes the mounds with the so-called Chud graves.

they relate that a hundred or more years ago they had not known whether Muslims or unbelievers were buried there, so it was decided to open some graves, where human skeletons were then found sitting on horseback, as well as many implements of silver, such as sabres, stirrups and so on; women too were found, whose necklaces of pearls and precious stones had been laid in their mouths.

Working translation

Original wording

sie erzählen, dass sie vor hundert oder mehreren Jahren nicht gewusst hatten, ob dort Muhamedaner oder Ungläubige begraben lägen, deshalb habe man beschlossen einige Gräber zu öffnen, wo man alsdann Menschengerippe zu Pferde sitzend gefunden habe, so wie auch viele Geräthe von Silber, als Säbel, Steigbügel etc. auch habe man Weiber vorgefunden, denen ihr Halsgeschmeide, bestehend aus Perlen und kostbaren Steinen, in den Mund gelegt gewesen wäre.

Eduard Eversmann, reporting Kazakh informants

About Kazakhs (Kirghiz) as tellers; the dead said to be Kalmyks

Keep in mind

Pure hearsay about a dig long before Eversmann's visit; he saw only the stone mounds.

The fine print

How we know

firsthand The author saw the places or people described.

firsthand observation: Eversmann travelled disguised as a merchant with the Negri mission caravan 1820-1821 through the Kazakh steppe to Bukhara; Klaproth contributed a linguistic note

Research notes
  • Edited by Lichtenstein from Eversmann's letters and notes; Eversmann's second attempt (1825-1826, Khiva) was never published as a book.

Why it matters

German eyewitness companion to Meyendorff (W026) on the same 1820-1821 mission to Bukhara; independent observation of the Kazakh steppe route and Bukharan society, plus the first Pashto vocabulary printed in Germany.

Places named

Orenburg; Kazakh steppe; Ust-Urt; Kyzylkum; Bukhara

Peoples named

Persian, Arab, Ottoman and other Islamic states

Kazakhs (Kirghiz-Kaisaks); Karakalpaks; Khiva; Emirate of Bukhara; Turkmens; Afghans (vocabulary)

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