Written source · French

Chappe d'Auteroche's journey to Siberia

A French astronomer's account of his 1761 journey from Paris to Tobolsk for the transit of Venus, and of the Tatar villages and towns he passed.

Full title Journey into Siberia made by order of the king in 1761, containing the manners and customs of the Russians and the present state of that power, the geographical description and levelling of the route from Paris to Tobolsk (2 vols in 3 and atlas; with vol. 2 the French translation of Krasheninnikov’s Kamchatka)

Jean Chappe d'Auteroche

Read the 11 passagesOpen the original book

Jean Chappe d'Auteroche (1722-1769), an astronomer of the Paris Academy of Sciences, was sent by Louis XV to Tobolsk to observe the transit of Venus of 6 June 1761. He crossed Russia by sledge in winter, came back through the Urals and Kazan in the autumn, and published Voyage en Siberie in 1768 with engraved plates. Besides astronomy, levelling and natural history, it gives sharp and often hostile remarks on Russian society, first-hand notes on Tatar, Votyak and Kalmyk people he met, and an account of the destruction of the Zunghar Kalmyks learned from refugee envoys in Tobolsk. Catherine II's circle answered it with the Antidote (1770). The corpus copy is the 1768 Paris edition; the Kamchatka volume is a translation of Krasheninnikov and is not used here.

How they knew
Part eyewitness
Who “Tartar” means here
Chappe calls 'Tartares' the Muslim Tatar villagers of the Urals and the Kazan region, the nomads who raided the Siberian frontier lines, and, loosely, the Kalmyks and Mongols as heirs of Chinggis Khan's armies.
Why read it
It gives a vivid eyewitness picture of Tatar villages and of Kazan as a Tatar town under Russian rule in 1761, alongside the rumours about steppe nomads and the vegetable lamb that a traveller picked up on the way.
Watch out
Chappe's contempt for Russian society was notorious and was attacked at the time; his stories about the steppe nomads are hearsay and he says so. The OCR prints the long s as f, silently normalised in the quotes.

What it says: 11 passages

CitiesKazanOctober 1761

Kazan in 1761: well-built wooden houses and honoured Tatars

Editorial contextChappe spent several days in Kazan fixing its position by the stars. He found a town that kept a remnant of its former wealth though its trade had nearly died, with houses mostly of wood but very well built. Tatars made up a large part of the population and, he says, far from being persecuted, were treated with great respect and were loyal to the empress.

It still keeps a remnant of its former opulence, although its trade is almost extinct. The houses, though mostly of wood, are very well built. … The Tartars make up a large part of the inhabitants of Kazan; but far from being persecuted there, they are treated with the greatest regard; and so they are very attached to their sovereign. They have kept the innocence of their manners, their probity, their good faith

Working translation

Original wording

Elle conserve encore un reste de son ancienne opulence, quoique son commerce soit presqu'éteint. Les maisons, quoiqu'en bois pour la plupart, y sont très bien bâties. … Les Tartares forment une grande partie des Habitants de Cazan; mais loin d'y être persécutés, ils y sont traités avec les plus grands égards; aussi sont-ils très attachés à leur Souverain. Ils ont conservé l'innocence de leurs mœurs, leur probité, leur bonne foi

Jean Chappe d'Auteroche

About Kazan Tatars and Russians

Keep in mind

Chappe stayed only a few days; his praise of Tatar honesty is a traveller's general impression.

CitiesTobolsk1580s (told in 1768)

How Siberia's Tatar khanate fell

Editorial contextOpening his description of Tobolsk, Chappe tells how Siberia, ruled by a Tatar prince of the Uzbek line, was conquered by the Cossack brigand Yermak. Helped by the Stroganov family, Yermak sailed down the Tagil and Tura rivers, took Tiumen, surprised 'Tobolsk', captured the twelve-year-old son of Khan Kuchum and sent him to Moscow, buying the tsar's pardon with the gift of Siberia.

It was ruled by a Tartar prince of the family of the Uzbeks. … He embarked with his band on the river Tagil, which he descended to its mouth in the river Tura. Continuing down that river, he seized the town of Tiumen, surprised that of Tobolsk, took prisoner the twelve-year-old son of Khan Kuchum, and sent him to Moscow

Working translation

Original wording

Elle étoit gouvernée par un Prince Tartare de la Famille des Usbeks. … Il s'embarqua avec sa troupe sur la riviere Tagil, qu'il descendit jusqu'à son embouchure dans la riviere Tura. Continuant ensuite sa route sur cette derniere riviere, il s'empara de la Ville de Tumen, surprit celle de Tobolsk, fit prisonnier le fils du Kan Zutchuin, âgé de douze ans, & l'envoya à Moscou

Jean Chappe d'Auteroche

About Siberian Tatars under Khan Kuchum; Yermak's Cossacks

Keep in mind

Second-hand history with a slip: Yermak took the Tatar capital Isker (Sibir) in 1582, and Tobolsk was built nearby by the Russians only in 1587. 'Zutchuin' is Khan Kuchum.

Welcomed at the Tatar village of Birna

Editorial contextAfter a near-fatal sledge accident, Chappe reached Birna, a Tatar village. Villagers came out a verst to meet him with signs of friendship, led him to their headman (chosen, he says, for his merit without any election) and gave him a meal of honey, butter and vegetables. Their houses were as clean as Siberian ones were dirty; they lived much like their neighbours except that they were Muslims.

At last I reached Birna; this village is inhabited by Tartars. Several had come out a verst from their village to meet me … They had prepared a kind of dinner for me consisting of honey, butter and a few vegetables. Their houses are as clean as those of the Siberians are not. For the rest, they live in much the same way, except that they are Mahometans.

Working translation

Original wording

J'arrivai enfin à Birna; ce Village est habité par des Tartares. Plusieurs étoient venus au-devant de moi à un werst de leur Village … Ils m'avoient fait préparer une espece de dîner qui consistoit dans du miel, du beurre & quelques légumes. Leurs maisons sont aussi propres que celles des Sibériens le sont peu. Au reste, ils vivent à-peu-près de la même façon, excepté qu'ils sont Mahométans.

Jean Chappe d'Auteroche

About Muslim Tatar villagers

Tatar women's sugar-loaf caps, and equal marriages

Editorial contextChappe describes the dress of the Tatars of Birna: the men in wool tunics, long robes and boots with shaved heads, the women in shorter robes and tall sugar-loaf caps sewn with copper coins and glass beads. Wives shared most of their husbands' work and were treated gently, with 'perfect equality' between them, which he contrasts with the seclusion of Siberian Russian wives.

The dress of Tartar women differs little from that of the men: it is shorter, and the belt is worn over the robe. Their headdress is a cap, often shaped like a sugar loaf, covered with kopecks and glass beads … They share most of their husbands' work; the husbands treat them gently; a perfect equality reigns between them.

Working translation

Original wording

L'habillement des femmes Tartares differe peu de celui des hommes : il est plus court, & la ceinture est par-dessus la robe. Leur coeffure est un bonnet, souvent fait en pain de sucre; il est couvert de copecks & de grains de verre … Elles partagent la plupart des travaux de leurs maris : ceux-ci les traitent avec douceur : une parfaite égalité regne entre eux.

Jean Chappe d'Auteroche

About Muslim Tatar villagers

Keep in mind

A one-day visit; the plate 'Tartares des environs de Kazan' in the same volume illustrates the dress.

Show 7 more passages

Steppe nomads who flee from smallpox

Editorial contextChappe was told by several people that the nomadic 'Tartars' south of Siberia hardly knew smallpox and dreaded it so much that a sick person was left alone in a tent with food while the camp moved elsewhere. Those who came into Siberia caught it at once, and many died. Chappe says he checked the story as best he could but could only rest it on trustworthy witnesses.

Various people assured me of the singular fact that the wandering Tartars south of Siberia hardly know this cruel disease at all. They have such a horror of it that if someone catches it, he is left alone in a tent with provisions, and the others go and camp elsewhere. The Tartars who come into Siberia are attacked by it almost at once

Working translation

Original wording

Différentes personnes m'ont attesté le fait singulier, que les Tartares vagabonds situés au Midi de la Sibérie ne connoissent presque point cette cruelle maladie. Ils en ont une si grande horreur, que si quelqu'un en est attaqué, on le laisse seul dans une tente, avec des provisions de vivres, & l'on va camper ailleurs. Les Tartares qui pénetrent dans la Sibérie en sont attaqués presque aussi-tôt

Jean Chappe d'Auteroche

About 'wandering Tartars' of the steppe south of Siberia

Keep in mind

Hearsay, as Chappe admits. 'Tartares vagabonds' probably means Kazakh and other nomads of the steppe frontier.

Daily lifeKazanOctober 1761

Pipes, Chinese tobacco and watermelon with Kazan's Tatar governor

Editorial contextOn arriving at Kazan Chappe was received by the governor, a Tatar prince. They sat round a table covered with a fine carpet; four long pipes and a porcelain jar of Chinese tobacco were set out, then local liqueurs, preserves, fruit and a watermelon so delicious that Chappe ate nothing else and took home seeds, which failed to grow in France.

I arrived at Kazan on the first of October. A Tartar prince was its governor … we sat down round a table covered with a fine carpet: four large pipes were placed on it and a porcelain jar full of Chinese tobacco; I smoked for a few moments. Then local liqueurs were served, preserves with fruit, and a watermelon

Working translation

Original wording

J'arrivai à Cazan le premier Octobre. Un Prince Tartare en étoit le Gouverneur … nous nous assimes autour d'une table couverte d'un beau tapis : on y plaça quatre grandes pipes & un vase de porcelaine rempli de tabac de la Chine : je fumai quelques instants. On servit aussi-tôt des liqueurs du pays; des confitures, avec des fruits & un melon d'eau

Jean Chappe d'Auteroche

About a Tatar prince serving as governor of Kazan

Kalmyks and Mongols as heirs of Chinggis Khan's Tartars

Editorial contextAfter recounting how China destroyed the Zunghar Kalmyk state in 1757, Chappe says the other Kalmyk branches kept the courage they had under Chinggis Khan, whose conquests were made with these peoples, and that the Mongols between China and Siberia descend from the same Tartars. Here 'Tartar' means the Mongol-speaking peoples as a whole.

Several other branches of the Kalmyks still live in that part of Asia. They have kept the courage and bravery they had in the time of Chinggis Khan and his successors. It was with these peoples that those princes made so many conquests and laid down the law to Asia. The Mongols situated between China and Siberia descend from the same Tartars and are no less courageous.

Working translation

Original wording

Plusieurs autres branches des Calmouks habitent encore dans cette partie de l'Asie. Ils ont conservé le courage & la bravoure qu'ils avoient du temps de Gengis-kan & de ses Successeurs. C'est avec ces Peuples que ces Princes firent tant de conquêtes & donnerent la loi à l'Asie. Les Mongales situés entre la Chine & la Sibérie descendent des mêmes Tartares, & ils ne sont pas moins courageux.

Jean Chappe d'Auteroche

About Kalmyks (Oirats) and Mongols

Keep in mind

Chappe learned of the Zunghar collapse from Kalmyk refugees and Russians in Siberia; his view of the Kalmyks as Chinggis Khan's own army is a loose generalisation.

The nameUdmurtiaSeptember 1761

Votyaks are not Tartars

Editorial contextStopping at the Votyak hamlet of Sowialova, Chappe notes that some authors had counted the Votyaks among the Tartars, but that he could see no connection between the two peoples. It is a small example of a traveller correcting the catch-all use of the word.

Sowialova is a hamlet inhabited by Votyaks. The peculiarity of this people and of their dress made me decide to stop there part of the day. Some authors have placed the Votyaks among the Tartars, but I recognised no relation between these two nations.

Working translation

Original wording

Sowialova est un Hameau habité par des Wotiakes. La singularité de ce Peuple & de leur habillement me détermina à m'y arrêter une partie de la journée. Quelques Auteurs ont placé les Wotiakes au nombre des Tartares, mais je n'ai reconnu aucun rapport entre ces deux Nations.

Jean Chappe d'Auteroche

About Votyaks (Udmurts)

Strange talesSiberian frontier lines1750s (story told to Chappe after 1762)

Nomads who asked to be fired on

Editorial contextBack in Paris Chappe heard from the Chevalier de Saint-Pierre that a large band of Tartars once approached a Russian fort on the Siberian lines. Warned that they would be fired on unless they withdrew, they held a council and sent word asking the commander to fire. After the first cannonade killed several of them they held another council and asked again, and only left after the third.

A large detachment of these Tartars approached the Siberian lines a few years ago; the commander of one of the Russian forts saw them and, not knowing what this band of Tartars intended, let them know he would open fire on them if they did not withdraw. The Tartars gathered, held a council, and sent to ask the commander to order the firing; it was done.

Working translation

Original wording

Un gros détachement de ces Tartares s'approcha, il y a quelques années, des lignes de Sibérie; le Commandant d'un des Forts Russes les ayant apperçus, & ignorant l'intention de ces Tartares en troupe, leur fit savoir qu'il feroit faire feu sur eux, s'ils ne se retiroient. Ces Tartares s'assemblent, & après avoir tenu conseil, ils envoient prier le Commandant d'ordonner qu'on fit feu; on le fit.

Jean Chappe d'Auteroche, retelling a story from the Chevalier de Saint-Pierre

About steppe 'Tartars' on the Siberian border

Keep in mind

A second-hand anecdote told in Paris, used by Chappe to argue that some nomads did not know firearms; nothing confirms it.

Hunting the vegetable lamb around Kazan

Editorial contextChappe searched everywhere around Kazan for the famous Borametz, the 'vegetable lamb' described in Abbe Lambert's natural history: a plant shaped like a lamb, with fleece, a little blood and flesh, that grazed the grass around it and died when the grass dried. He could not find it, nobody in Kazan knew it, and he calls it a ridiculous fable.

I searched everywhere around Kazan for the famous plant called Borametz, of which the Abbe Lambert speaks in his Civil and Natural History. … this plant resembles a lamb; it has all its parts, with a delicate fleece which women use to cover their heads. … Despite all my efforts I could never obtain this plant, which is unknown at Kazan.

Working translation

Original wording

Je cherchai par-tout dans les environs de Cazan la fameuse plante nommée Borametz, dont parle M. l'Abbé Lambert dans son Histoire Civile & Naturelle. … cette plante ressemble à un agneau, elle en a toutes les parties avec une toison délicate, dont les femmes se servent pour couvrir leur tête. … Malgré mes soins je ne pus jamais me procurer cette plante inconnue à Cazan.

Jean Chappe d'Auteroche, summarising the Abbe Claude-Francois Lambert
Keep in mind

Chappe tested the legend and rejected it. He adds that a plant shown under that name at the King's Garden in Paris, which some authors class among the mosses, has nothing to do with the fable.

A Kalmyk idol that gave communion to the sick

Editorial contextChappe brought back Kalmyk Buddhist idols from Tobolsk and had their meaning explained by Kalmyk envoys and later by a Kalmyk lama in St Petersburg. Of the copper figure Otschirbany he writes that the god was sent from heaven to fight demons who had stopped the sun and moon, and that a channel ran from its mouth to its anus so that lamas could drop a sacred pill through it into a sick person's mouth.

This god is of the third order. He was sent from heaven to fight evil spirits that had stopped the Sun and Moon. … The mouth of this divinity connects with the anus by a vertical channel. The lamas or priests use it to give communion to the sick.

Working translation

Original wording

Ce Dieu est du troisieme ordre. Il fut envoyé du Ciel pour combattre de mauvais génies qui avoient arrêté le Soleil & la Lune. … La bouche de cette Divinité communique avec l'anus par un canal perpendiculaire. Les Lamas ou Prêtres en font usage pour donner la communion aux malades.

Jean Chappe d'Auteroche, from explanations given by Kalmyk envoys at Tobolsk

About Zunghar Kalmyks (Oirat Buddhists)

Keep in mind

Otschirbany is Vajrapani. Chappe owned and described the figure, but the ritual comes through interpreters and may be misunderstood.

The fine print

How we know

firsthand The author saw the places or people described.

firsthand observation (Chappe travelled Paris-St Petersburg-Tobolsk for the 1761 transit of Venus); vol. 2 is a translation of Krasheninnikov (compilation)

Research notes
  • Vol. 2 (Kamchatka) is a translation of Krasheninnikov 1755 (Russian agent's domain, English W007). Chappe's ethnographic remarks were disputed at the time (Antidote, 1770).

Why it matters

A French academician's eyewitness of Tobolsk and the Siberian Tatar and Ugrian populations in 1761, with the first French Krasheninnikov (W007 is the English); the book provoked Catherine II's Antidote, so it also documents the politics of describing Siberia.

Places named

Western Siberia (Tobolsk, Irtysh); Volga; Urals; Kamchatka (vol. 2)

Peoples named

Rus, Muscovy and the Russian Empire
Golden Horde and its Tatar successor khanates
Indigenous peoples of Siberia and the North Pacific

Russians; Siberian Tatars; Voguls / Ostiaks; Kamchadals (vol. 2)

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