Written source · Dutch

De Bruyn's travels down the Volga to Astrakhan, 1703

A Dutch painter's eyewitness account, with drawings made on the spot, of the Tatars and Kalmyks of the Volga and Astrakhan in 1703 and 1707.

Full title Travels through Muscovy, Persia and India, enriched with three hundred plates (Archangel, Moscow, Volga, Astrakhan, Caspian, Persia 1701-1708)

Cornelis de Bruyn

Read the 13 passagesOpen the original book

Cornelis de Bruyn (1652-1727), a trained painter from The Hague, travelled through Russia to Persia and the East Indies from 1701 to 1708. In spring 1703 he sailed down the Volga from Moscow to Astrakhan, where he spent weeks sketching the Tatar camps and portraying a Tatar noblewoman, and he returned up the river in 1707. His friend and patron Nicolaes Witsen helped him. The book appeared in Dutch in 1711; the corpus copy is the French translation of 1718 (with a 1725 edition as a second copy), whose editors also inserted a summary of Evert Ysbrants Ides's embassy across Siberia to China in 1692-1695.

How they knew
Part eyewitness
Who “Tartar” means here
Chiefly the Nogai-descended 'Yurt' Tatars camped around Astrakhan and the Kalmyks of the lower Volga; also the Tatars of Kasimov and Kazan, the Muslim Siberian Tatars of Tobolsk (in the Ides section), the medieval Mongols in his history notes, and Crimean Tatars who came to Astrakhan to sell horses.
Why read it
A trained artist describes, and drew, exactly what Tatar tents, carts and dress looked like, and records local legends about ruined Golden Horde cities and burial mounds along the Volga.
Watch out
Keep de Bruyn's own observations apart from the Ides section, which he did not witness, and from history copied out of older books. This is a French translation of the Dutch original.

What it says: 13 passages

CitiesKasimov1 May 1703

Kasimov: a Tatar town of wood with a mosque tower

Editorial contextSailing down the Oka, de Bruyn passed Kasimov, which had been the seat of a small Tatar khanate under Moscow. He found a fair-sized town with no walls, where every house and all four churches were of wood, and a mosque with a tower used by 'Turks and Tartars'.

It has no walls, although it is fairly large; all the houses are of wood, as are the four churches. There is a tower at a mosque, which serves the Turks and the Tartars

Working translation

Original wording

Elle n'a point de murailles quoi qu'elle soit assez grande, toutes les maisons en sont de bois, aussi-bien que les quatre églises. Il y a une tour à une mosquée, qui sert aux Turcs & aux Tartares

Cornelis de Bruyn (French translation, Voyages de Corneille Le Brun, 1718)

About Tatars of Kasimov

CitiesTobolskJuly 1692

Tobolsk: a stone monastery, and Muslim Tartars trading to China

Editorial contextIn the inserted Ides section, Tobolsk is a strong place with a great stone monastery with high towers, standing on a hill where the Irtysh and Tobol meet. The foot of the hill and the Irtysh bank are inhabited by Muslim Tartars and Bukharans who trade along the river among the Kalmyks and go on as far as China.

he arrived safely at Tobol or Tobolsk, a strong place, where there is a great stone monastery with high towers … The foot of this hill and the bank of the Irtysh are inhabited by Muslim Tartars and Bukharans, who trade a great deal on this river among the Kalmyks, and even go from there as far as China.

Working translation

Original wording

il arriva heureusement à Tobol ou Tobolskoi, place forte, où l'on trouve un grand monastere de pierre, garni de hautes tours … Le pied de cette montagne & le rivage de l'Irtis sont habités par des Tartares & des Bachares Mahometans, qui trafiquent beaucoup sur ce fleuve parmi les Kalmuques, & vont même delà jusques à la Chine.

Evert Ysbrants Ides's route to China (1692-1695), summarized by the editors of the 1718 French edition of Le Brun and inserted in it

About Siberian Tatars and Bukharans

Keep in mind

Not seen by de Bruyn; a summary of Ides inserted by the French editors.

Ruined cities between Kazan and Astrakhan, their stones reused

Editorial contextNear Simbirsk de Bruyn was told of very old and important cities between Kazan and Astrakhan, among them 'Achtoeba'. Nothing of it remains, he says, because all its stones were carried away to build Astrakhan and other places. The name almost certainly points to the Akhtuba branch of the Volga, where the ruins of the Golden Horde capital lay; Struys (W249) reported the same stone-robbing in 1669.

Moreover, it is said that there are very ancient and very considerable cities between Kazan and Astrakhan, among others Achtoeba … It is also known that the town of Achtoeba stood on this river, but not the least trace of it remains, all the stones having been carried away to build Astrakhan and some other places.

Working translation

Original wording

Au reste on affirme qu'il y a des villes fort anciennes & fort considerables entre Casan & Astracan, & entr'autres Achtoeba … On sait aussi que la ville d'Achtoeba étoit située sur cette riviere, mais il n'en reste pas les moindres vestiges, toutes les pierres en aiant été transportées pour bâtir Astracan & quelques autres places.

Cornelis de Bruyn (French translation, Voyages de Corneille Le Brun, 1718)

About unnamed ancient builders (the Golden Horde)

Keep in mind

Hearsay; de Bruyn says he could learn nothing certain about these cities.

Tatar tents like parrot cages, carried on carts

Editorial contextDe Bruyn often walked out to the Tatar camp three or four versts from Astrakhan and drew it. Each family camped apart. The tents were built like parrot cages from laths three or four inches wide, covered with felt, camel hair or horsehair, with a smoke hole and a pole carrying a turnable sail against wind and sun. When they moved, they set the tents on two-wheeled carts.

They camp in groups, each family apart and at some distance from the others. Their tents are made like parrot cages, except that they are not so tall in proportion; formed of laths three to four inches wide, covered with felt, camel hair or horsehair … When they change place, they put their tents on carts

Working translation

Original wording

Ils campent par troupes, chaque famille separée, & à quelque distance des autres. Leurs tentes sont faites comme des cages de perroquets, hormis qu'elles ne sont pas si élevées à proportion; formées de lattes de trois à quatre pouces de large, couvertes de feutre, de poil de chameau ou de crin de cheval … Quand ils changent de lieu, ils mettent leurs tentes sur des chariots

Cornelis de Bruyn (French translation, Voyages de Corneille Le Brun, 1718)

About Yurt Tatars (Nogai) of Astrakhan

Keep in mind

De Bruyn drew these tents himself (plates 36 and 37 in the book).

Show 9 more passages

Summer huts, winter log cabins, and fields of barley

Editorial contextThe Ides section describes the Baraba people between Tara and the Ob. They live in villages, in light huts in summer and good wooden cabins in winter, 'like the Tartars of Siberia', and they plough and sow oats, barley and buckwheat. The same page says they drink a spirit distilled from mare's milk called kumis and carry a wooden idol, their 'Saitan', on the hunt.

They are a cunning and warlike people, who live in wooden cabins like the Tartars of Siberia … They live in kinds of villages, in light huts in summer and in good wooden cabins in winter. Ploughing is practised among them, and they sow oats, barley, buckwheat and so on.

Working translation

Original wording

C'est un peuple malin & belliqueux, qui habite dans des cabanes de bois, comme les Tartares de Syberie … Ils habitent dans des especes de villages, sous des huttes legeres en été, & en de bonnes cabanes de bois en hyver. Le labourage est en usage parmi eux, & ils sement de l'avoine, de l'orge, du sarazin &c.

Evert Ysbrants Ides's route to China (1692-1695), summarized by the editors of the 1718 French edition of Le Brun and inserted in it

About Barabinsky (Baraba Tatars), called a kind of Kalmyk

Keep in mind

From the Ides material; the book calls them 'a kind of Kalmyk', though they are now counted as Siberian Tatars.

'This is how Abraham lived'

Editorial contextWhile he sketched, the Tatars crowded round him, as surprised by his clothes as he was by theirs. The women spun and carded wool for the tent felts and burned dried cow dung for fuel. He found their way of life close to that of the Arabs, and thought this must be how Abraham and the patriarchs lived, content in tents as Europeans are in palaces.

Their way of life is quite close to that of the Arabs, and they seem as content with their dwellings as we are with palaces and the finest houses. This brings to my mind the ancient way of the Orientals, and I imagine that this is how Abraham and the other patriarchs lived

Working translation

Original wording

Leur manière de vivre approche assez de celle des Arabes, & ils paroissent aussi contens de leurs demeures, qu'on l'est parmi nous des Palais, & des plus belles maisons. Cela me remet dans l'esprit l'ancienne manière des Orientaux, & je m'imagine que c'est ainsi que vivoient Abraham & les autres Patriarches

Cornelis de Bruyn (French translation, Voyages de Corneille Le Brun, 1718)

About Yurt Tatars (Nogai) of Astrakhan

Portrait of a Tatar noblewoman in a headdress of gold ducats

Editorial contextDe Bruyn painted a young Tatar woman of high rank in the governor's house. Under her veils she wore a pointed, mitre-shaped headdress covered in gold ducats and embroidered with pearls, silver chains with little boxes for prayer books, and hair bound with black ribbon. She came with three women attendants and a Tatar escort known to the governor.

This headdress was entirely covered with gold ducats, as has already been said, and pointed like a mitre, embroidered with a great number of pearls … This young lady was one of the most considerable among the Tartars, and was accompanied by three women of her suite and escorted by a Tartar known to the governor.

Working translation

Original wording

Cette coifure étoit toute couverte de ducats d'or, comme il a déjà été dit, & pointue en forme de mitre, brodée d'un grand nombre de perles … Cette demoiselle étoit une des plus considerables d'entre les Tartares; & étoit accompagnée de trois femmes de sa suite, & conduite par un Tartare, connu du Gouverneur.

Cornelis de Bruyn (French translation, Voyages de Corneille Le Brun, 1718)

About Yurt Tatars (Nogai) of Astrakhan

Keep in mind

The portrait was engraved for the book.

Inside a Tatar mosque at Tobolsk

Editorial contextIdes, curious to see Tatar worship, visited a mosque at Tobolsk with the governor, without whom he would not have been let in. The mosques had large open windows and carpeted floors with no other ornament; worshippers left their shoes at the door. The mufti was an Arab, and the Tatars honoured anyone who could read Arabic. Many Kalmyk slaves lived in the area.

The Tartars who live at Tobolsk and for several leagues around are all Muslims. Mr Isbrants, curious to see their ceremonies, went to one of their mosques accompanied by the voevoda, without whom he could not have been admitted. They are surrounded by large windows, which are left open, and the floor is covered with carpets, with no other ornament.

Working translation

Original wording

Les Tartares, qui demeurent à Tobol, & à plusieurs lieues aux environs, sont tous Mahometans. Mr. Isbrants, étant curieux de voir leurs cérémonies, se rendit dans une de leurs mosquées, accompagné du Waiwode, sans quoi il n'auroit pû y être admis. Elles sont entourées de grandes fenêtres, qu'on laisse ouvertes, & le pavé en est couvert de tapis, sans autre ornement.

Evert Ysbrants Ides's route to China (1692-1695), summarized by the editors of the 1718 French edition of Le Brun and inserted in it

About Siberian Tatars

Keep in mind

Ides's eyewitness visit, reported second-hand in this book.

Kalmyks swim for bread thrown from the boat

Editorial contextSailing back up the Volga, de Bruyn saw Kalmyks fishing with lines along the bank, with two-humped camels around them, and threw them bread, which they swam out to fetch. Ashore, Kalmyk men and women could not stop staring at his clothes and handling them. His boat kept to the east bank to avoid the Tartars on the other side, whom he calls great thieves.

We saw several Kalmyks along the bank fishing with lines, and we threw bread into the water for them, which they swam out to fetch. There were two-humped camels around them … we found several Kalmyks, both men and women, who could not tire of looking at my clothes

Working translation

Original wording

Nous vîmes plusieurs Calmuques le long du rivage pêchant à la ligne, & nous leur jettâmes dans l'eau, du pain qu'ils allèrent prendre à la nage. Il y avoit des chameaux à 2. bosses autour d'eux … nous trouvâmes plusieurs Calmuques tant hommes que femmes, qui ne pouvoient se lasser de regarder mon habillement

Cornelis de Bruyn (French translation, Voyages de Corneille Le Brun, 1718)

About Kalmyks

'Yurt' Tatars: named for being born there

Editorial contextDe Bruyn records the Russian name for the Tatars around Astrakhan, 'Jurtsge' (the Yurt Tatars), explaining it as 'because they were born there'. They paid no tribute to the Tsar but had to send a few hundred men to his wars, though they could field 20,000. On the same page he notes that Nogais tented near Terki and that Crimean Tatars came only to sell horses and cattle.

The Russians call the Tartars who live in those parts Jurtsge, because they were born there. Nor do they pay any tribute to the Tsar; they are only obliged to send some hundreds of their people to war when that prince wishes it.

Working translation

Original wording

Les Russiens nomment les Tartares, qui habitent en ces quartiers-là, Jurtsge, parce qu'ils y sont nez. Aussi ne payent-ils aucun tribut au Czar; ils sont seulement obligés d'envoyer quelques centaines de leurs gens à la guerre, lors que ce Prince le souhaite.

Cornelis de Bruyn (French translation, Voyages de Corneille Le Brun, 1718)

About Yurt Tatars of Astrakhan

The nameMongolia1246 (written 1707)

The Su-Mongols, 'also called Tartars after the river Tartar'

Editorial contextBack in Astrakhan in 1707, de Bruyn adds a note from older books: in 1246 the Tartars chose 'Kuine' (Güyük) as their ruler, calling themselves Moals or Mongals. Their land, Mongol, held four nations, among them the water Mongols, also called Tartars after a river Tartar that runs through their country. This is the explanation given by the friar John of Plano Carpini in the 1240s, repeated second-hand.

In the year 1246 they chose as head of Tartary a certain Kuine, whom they surnamed Gog Cham, that is, King or Emperor, calling themselves Moals or Mongals … the Saniongals, or sea Mongols, who are also called Tartars, after the river Tartar, which crosses their country

Working translation

Original wording

En l'an 1246, ils choisirent pour chef de la Tartarie un certain Kuine, qu'ils surnommérent Gog Cham, c'est-à-dire, Roi ou Empereur, se nommant eux-mêmes Moales ou Mongales … les Saniongals, ou Mongales marins, qu'on nomme aussi Tartares, d'après la riviere de Tartar, qui traverse leur pais

Cornelis de Bruyn (Le Brun), repeating medieval sources, ultimately John of Plano Carpini

About Mongols (medieval)

Keep in mind

Copied from older books; 'Gog Cham' is presumably a garbled form of Güyük's name, not a link to Gog and Magog.

A hill heaped over a Tartar emperor by soldiers' helmets

Editorial contextBelow Samara the Russians pointed out a round hill called Sanol Kiergan and told de Bruyn it was the tomb of a Tartar emperor named Mammon, who came up the Volga with seventy other Tartar kings to conquer Russia and died there. His soldiers filled their helmets and shields with earth to raise the mound. The name may echo Mamai, the Golden Horde warlord of the 1370s; Struys (W249) heard a version in 1669.

The Russians told us it was the tomb of a king or emperor of Tartary named Mammon, who had come up the Volga with seventy other Tartar kings to seize all Russia. That this prince having died in that place, the soldiers … filled their helmets and shields with earth to raise him a tomb, from which this mountain had been formed.

Working translation

Original wording

Les Russiens nous dirent que c'étoit le tombeau d'un Roi, ou d'un Empereur de Tartarie, nommé Mammon, qui avoit monté le Wolga avec 70. autres Rois Tartares, pour s'emparer de toute la Russie. Que ce Prince étant mort en ce lieu-là, les soldats … remplirent leurs casques & leurs boucliers de terre, pour lui dresser un tombeau, dont cette montagne avoit été formée.

Cornelis de Bruyn (French translation, Voyages de Corneille Le Brun, 1718)

About a legendary 'Emperor of Tartary' called Mammon

Keep in mind

A folk legend told by Russian boatmen; the hill may be natural.

Mammoths that burrow underground and die in the light

Editorial contextThe Ides section reports mammoth tusks and bones thawing out of riverbanks, and a member of the embassy who found a head with half-rotten flesh. The Yakuts, Tungus and Ostyaks say the mammoth lives underground, making the earth rise and sink as it moves, and dies as soon as it sees daylight. The Russians of Siberia think it was an elephant-like beast buried by Noah's Flood.

The Yakuts, Tungus and Ostyaks claim that they never come out of the bosom of the earth, under which they go this way and that. They even say that one often sees the earth rise and sink when they are moving … They assure us that they die as soon as they see the light

Working translation

Original wording

Les Jakutes, Tungufes, & Ostiaques, prétendent qu'ils ne sortent jamais du sein de la terre, sous laquelle ils vont de côté & d'autre. Ils disent même qu'on voit souvent la terre s'élever & s'affaisser lors qu'ils sont en mouvement … Ils assurent, qu'ils meurent aussi tôt qu'ils découvrent la lumière

Evert Ysbrants Ides's route to China (1692-1695), summarized by the editors of the 1718 French edition of Le Brun and inserted in it

About Yakuts, Tungus and Ostyaks (and Siberian Russians)

Keep in mind

Native belief and Russian flood theory reported by Ides; the bones and tusks themselves were real finds.

The fine print

How we know

firsthand The author saw the places or people described.

firsthand observation by a painter-traveller (Volga voyage and Astrakhan 1703, Caspian crossing; Kalmyk and Tatar encounters drawn from life)

Research notes
  • Witsen sponsored and annotated de Bruyn; the French version (Le Brun, 1718) is a translation with some abridgement.
  • DBNL has only the 1996 modern abridgement; the 1711 original is via Google Books (KB copy).
  • Further copies: resolver.kb.nl/resolve?urn=dbnl:bruy004reiz01 (1996 abridged edition, DBNL)

Why it matters

Eyewitness of the lower Volga and Kalmyk steppe in 1703 by a trained observer who drew what he saw; used by Witsen (his friend) and by later French compilers. Documents Astrakhan Tatars and Kalmyks a decade after Witsen published.

Places named

Muscovy; Volga; Astrakhan; Caspian; Persia; India

Peoples named

Western Mongols (Oirat, Dzungar, Kalmyk)
Golden Horde and its Tatar successor khanates
Indigenous peoples of Siberia and the North Pacific
Turkic and Central Asian peoples and states
Persian, Arab, Ottoman and other Islamic states

Kalmyks; Astrakhan and Volga Tatars; Cheremis; Chuvash; Persians

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