Written source · English

Ibn Battuta's travels, in Samuel Lee's 1829 abridged translation

The Moroccan traveller's account of the Golden Horde, Central Asia, India and China in the 1330s and 1340s, from an Arabic abridgement.

Full title The Travels of Ibn Batuta

Ibn Battuta; Ibn Juzayy, redactor

Read the 17 passagesOpen the original bookRide the route

Ibn Battuta of Tangier (1304-1368/9) travelled for nearly thirty years across the Islamic world and beyond, and dictated his memories to the scholar Ibn Juzayy in Fez about 1355. Samuel Lee, Cambridge professor of Arabic, translated a shortened Arabic version of that book for the Oriental Translation Committee in 1829, with long learned footnotes; this is that edition. For the Tartar world it covers the Kipchak steppe and Crimea, the moving camp and court of Uzbek Khan, Astrakhan, Sarai, Khwarezm, Bukhara, Samarkand and the Chaghatayid sultan Tarmashirin, the ruins Genghis Khan left at Balkh, and Mongol-ruled China.

How they knew
Part eyewitness
Who “Tartar” means here
Ibn Battuta keeps 'Tartars' mainly for the Mongols of Genghis Khan who invaded and destroyed Muslim lands, and for the Mongol rulers of Iran and China. The Muslim Golden Horde and Chaghatayid peoples he usually calls 'Turks'; the running head 'TARTARY' in this book is the translator's.
Why read it
A Muslim insider's eyewitness picture of the Golden Horde at its height: a camp that moved like a city with its own mosques, unveiled royal women, mare's milk, and the great towns of Sarai and Khwarezm, alongside the ruins the first Mongol invasion left behind.
Watch out
Lee worked from an abridgement, so much is missing and some wording differs from modern translations of the full Rihla. The book was written down from memory years later, and scholars doubt some episodes (the trip to Bulgar, and how far into China he really went).

What it says: 17 passages

A moving city with mosques and kitchens

Editorial contextIbn Battuta reached Uzbek Khan's camp (the urdu, or horde) at the Five Mountains at the start of Ramadan. He describes it as a city on the move, with streets, mosques and cook-houses whose smoke rose as they travelled, all of which became stationary when the camp halted. He ranks Uzbek among the seven great kings of the world.

at this place, which is termed the urdu, or camp, we arrived on the first of the month Ramadan. Here we witnessed a moving city, with its streets, mosques, and cooking-houses, the smoke of which ascended as they moved along. When, however, they halted, all these became stationary.

Ibn Battuta (as redacted by Ibn Juzayy; abridged text translated by Samuel Lee, 1829)

About Golden Horde (Turks and Mongols under Uzbek Khan)

Astrakhan, where the khan wintered on a road of hay

Editorial contextIbn Battuta travelled with the khan's court to Astrakhan, 'one of his cities', on the Volga (Athal). The khan wintered there, and when the river froze the local people were ordered to lay thousands of bundles of hay on the ice as a roadway.

At this place the Sultan resides during the very cold weather ; and when this river, as well as the adjoining waters, are frozen, the King orders the people of the country to bring thousands of bundles of hay, which they do, and then place it upon the ice, and upon this they travel.

Ibn Battuta (translated by Samuel Lee, 1829)

About Golden Horde (Uzbek Khan)

Sarai, the khan's great capital

Editorial contextReturning from Constantinople, Ibn Battuta found the khan had moved to his capital, El Sarai, which he calls very handsome and very large. He met its leading scholar, a Khwarezmian imam whom the khan visited every Friday. The abridged text gives little more about the city itself.

This city of El Sarai is very handsome and exceedingly large. Of its learned men is the Imam, the learned Nooman Oddin, El Khavarezmi. I met him in this place.

Ibn Battuta (translated by Samuel Lee, 1829)

About Golden Horde (Uzbek Khan)

Keep in mind

The full Rihla describes Sarai's quarters and peoples at much greater length; this abridgement cuts it down.

Khwarezm, largest city of the Turks, where skipping prayers meant a whipping

Editorial contextAfter forty days across the steppe by camel cart, by way of Saraichuk with its bridge, Ibn Battuta reached Khwarezm (Urgench), which he calls the largest and most crowded city of the Turks, ruled by an emir for Uzbek Khan. He praises its people as the best-mannered he had met, and describes a whip hung in every mosque to punish those who missed prayers.

This is the largest city the Turks have, and is very much crowded, on account of the multitude of its inhabitants. It is subject to the sultan Uzbek Khan, and is governed on his part by a great Emir, who resides within it.

Ibn Battuta (translated by Samuel Lee, 1829)

About Golden Horde subjects (Turks of Khwarezm)

Show 13 more passages
CitiesBukhara1333 (describing damage from 1220)

Bukhara, a century after the Tartars

Editorial contextBukhara, the chief city beyond the Oxus, had still not recovered, Ibn Battuta says, from being ravaged by the Tartars more than a century earlier. He found nobody there with any learning. Here 'Tartars' means the Mongol armies of Genghis Khan.

then, after one stage, we came to Bokhara, which is the principal city of the country beyond the Gihon. After it had been ravaged by the Tartars, it almost entirely disappeared : I found no one in it who knew any thing of science.

Ibn Battuta (translated by Samuel Lee, 1829)

About Mongols of Genghis Khan ('the Tartars')

Keep in mind

Bukhara was sacked again by Ilkhanid Mongol troops in 1273, so not all the damage he saw dated from 1220.

A queen's travelling mosque, left at the border

Editorial contextIbn Battuta escorted Uzbek Khan's Byzantine wife on a visit to her father in Constantinople. Like her husband, she carried a mosque (evidently a tent) that was set up at every halt for daily prayers. At the first Byzantine fortress she left it behind, and from then on, he says with some dismay, the call to prayer stopped and wine appeared at her table.

The Queen had with her a mosque, which she set up at every stage, just as her husband used to do. In this she had daily prayers. She left it, however, at the fortress. After this the office of the Moazin ceased : wine was brought into the banquet and of this she drank.

Ibn Battuta (translated by Samuel Lee, 1829)

About Golden Horde; Byzantine princess Bayalun

BuildingsBalkh1333 (describing damage from 1220-1221)

Balkh's great mosque, broken open by Genghis Khan for treasure

Editorial contextBalkh lay in ruins, never rebuilt since Genghis Khan destroyed it; only the outline of the city could be traced. Its mosque had been one of the finest in the world, and Genghis had three of its pillars torn down because he was told treasure was hidden beneath them. Ibn Battuta then tells the legend behind that rumour: a governor's wife built the mosque from the price of a jewelled robe and buried a third of the money under a pillar for repairs.

It has not been rebuilt since its destruction by the cursed Jengiz Khan. … Its mosque was one of the largest and handsomest in the world. Its pillars were incomparable : three of which were destroyed by Jengiz Khan, because it had been told him, that the wealth of the mosque lay concealed

Ibn Battuta (translated by Samuel Lee, 1829)

About Mongols of Genghis Khan

Keep in mind

He saw the ruins; the story of the pillars and the treasure is local tradition.

Queens on the throne, faces uncovered

Editorial contextAfter Friday prayer Uzbek Khan sat in a 'golden alcove' on a gilded, jewelled throne, with his four wives seated on the throne beside him in full view. When each wife came in, the khan rose and led her by the hand to her seat. Ibn Battuta, used to royal women being hidden, was struck by this, and a page earlier he notes that Turkish noblewomen here went unveiled and were highly respected. He was given sheep, a horse and a leather bag of kumiss.

Whenever one of these wives enters, he arises, and taking her by the hand, puts her into her place upon the throne. Thus they are exposed to the sight of all, without so much as a veil.

Ibn Battuta (translated by Samuel Lee, 1829)

About Golden Horde royal family

Nine animals for one stolen

Editorial contextCrossing the Kipchak steppe by hired cart (araba), Ibn Battuta noticed huge herds grazing with no herdsmen. He explains it by the harsh law on theft: a thief had to return the animal with nine more, and if he could not, his children were taken, or he himself killed. He also notes that the treeless steppe folk burned dung for fuel.

he is compelled to return it with nine others of equal value. But, if this is not in his power, his children are taken. If, however, he have no children, he is himself slaughtered just like a sheep.

Ibn Battuta (translated by Samuel Lee, 1829)

About Golden Horde (Kipchak steppe)

Keep in mind

The sentence begins on the previous page (n102): a man 'convicted of having stolen a beast'. The law is what he was told, not a case he saw.

A khan deposed for breaking Genghis Khan's Yasa

Editorial contextIbn Battuta visited the camp of Sultan Tarmashirin, a devout Muslim khan who prayed in a mosque inside his camp. He explains that Genghis Khan's law book, the Yasa, required an annual assembly where nobles could depose a ruler who had broken its rules. Tarmashirin had abolished that assembly, so, after Ibn Battuta left, the Tartars and their nobles deposed him and he was killed.

Now, Tarmashirin had entirely abolished the observance of this day, which gave very great offence. Some time, therefore, after we had left the country, the Tartars, together with their nobles, assembled and deposed him, appointing for a successor one of his relations

Ibn Battuta (translated by Samuel Lee, 1829)

About Chaghatayid Mongols ('the Tartars') under Tarmashirin

Keep in mind

The deposition happened after he left, so he reports it second-hand; his account of the Yasa assembly is not confirmed by other sources.

A khan buried under a hill with slaves and impaled horses

Editorial contextIbn Battuta reports that a Mongol khan was killed by rebel kinsmen and buried with about a hundred relatives. The khan was laid on a couch in an underground chamber with his weapons, gold and silver vessels, four slave women and six favourite servants, and earth was heaped over it into a hill. Four horses were impaled on stakes on the mound. Everyone wore white hoods for mourning.

a large sepulchre was dug for him under the earth, in which a most beautiful couch was spread, and the Khan was with his weapons laid upon it. With him they placed all the gold and silver vessels he had in his house, together with four female slaves, and six of his favourite Mamluks … and the earth heaped upon them to the height of a large hill.

Ibn Battuta (translated by Samuel Lee, 1829)

About Mongols of the Yuan dynasty

Keep in mind

He says the khan was killed before he reached the capital, so the burial is almost certainly reported, not seen; the translator notes he could find no record of such a khan's death, and no Yuan emperor died this way at that date.

A leather bag of kumiss from the khan

Editorial contextThe khan's welcome gift was practical steppe hospitality: sheep, a horse and a skin of kimiz (kumiss), fermented mare's milk, which Ibn Battuta notes was highly valued as a drink. He also explains that each of the khan's wives had her own household, and that a visitor was expected to call on every one of them.

Upon this day I was presented to the Sultan, who received me very graciously, and afterwards sent me some sheep and a horse, with a leathern bag of kimiz, which is the milk of a mare ; and very much valued among them as a beverage.

Ibn Battuta (translated by Samuel Lee, 1829)

About Golden Horde

The nameKhotan (Khota) and Central AsiaTold c.1333 about the early 1200s

Genghis Khan the blacksmith

Editorial contextAt Bukhara Ibn Battuta retells what was said of the Tartars' founder: that Genghis Khan began as a blacksmith in the country of 'Khota', a big, generous man who won followers by feasting them, then conquered Khota, China, Kashgar and Almaliq before turning on Khwarezm. The translator notes that other histories give his origins very differently.

It is said that Jengiz Khan, who came with the Tartars into the countries of Islamism and destroyed them, was in his outset a blacksmith in the country of Khota.

Ibn Battuta (translated by Samuel Lee, 1829)

About Mongols ('the Tartars')

Keep in mind

A popular story ('it is said'); the blacksmith tale may have grown from Temujin's name, which resembles the Turkic word for iron. The rest of the story continues on the next page (n115).

The King of China is a Tartar

Editorial contextIn China, Ibn Battuta says plainly who ruled: the king was a Tartar, a descendant of the Genghis Khan who had laid waste to Muslim lands. He adds that every Chinese province had a separate town for Muslims, with their own mosques, and that the kings honoured them.

The King of China is a Tartar, and one of the descendants of Jengiz Khan, who entered the Mohammedan countries, and desolated many of them. In all the Chinese provinces, there is a town for the Mohammedans, and in this they reside.

Ibn Battuta (translated by Samuel Lee, 1829)

About Mongols of the Yuan dynasty

Silent trade with unseen people in the Land of Darkness

Editorial contextAt Bulgar he was told of a Land of Darkness forty days north, reached only by dog-sledges over ice, where there were no trees, stones or houses. Merchants left their goods and withdrew; next day they found sable and ermine in their place, and could take the furs or leave them. Nobody ever saw the other party, so the merchants did not know if they traded with men or demons. He did not go.

each man, leaving what he has brought with him, goes back to his appointed station. On the morrow they return to look for their goods, and find, instead of them, sable, ermine, and the fur of the sinjab. … for the merchants know not whether it is with mankind or demons that they have to do ; no one being seen during the transaction.

Ibn Battuta (translated by Samuel Lee, 1829)

About Unknown northern peoples; Golden Horde merchants

Keep in mind

Hearsay; he says he decided not to make the journey. Modern scholars also doubt that he reached Bulgar itself.

The rope trick at a Mongol governor's feast

Editorial contextAt a banquet given by the emir Qurtay at El Khansa (Hangzhou), the Khan's jugglers performed. A ball on a strap was thrown up out of sight; a boy climbed the strap and vanished; the master followed with a knife and threw down the boy's limbs, then put them together and the boy stood up. Ibn Battuta says he was so shaken he had palpitations. The Muslim judge beside him swore it was all illusion.

he then threw the hand of the boy upon the ground, then his foot ; then his other hand, then his other foot ; then his body, then his head. He then came down, panting for breath, and his clothes stained with blood. … The juggler then took the limbs of the boy and applied them one to another

Ibn Battuta (translated by Samuel Lee, 1829)

About Yuan Mongol court entertainers

Keep in mind

He says he witnessed it; a judge present called it trickery. Some scholars doubt how much of the China section is first-hand.

Strange talesIraq1258 (told in the 1350s)

Twenty-four thousand scholars killed: a story at fourth hand

Editorial contextThe editor Ibn Juzayy inserts a report passed down a chain of four people: a scholar from Iraq, met at Mecca, said that 24,000 learned men died in the Tartar war in Iraq and that he and his nephew were the only scholars who escaped. It is a vivid example of how atrocity figures travelled by word of mouth, and the text is careful to show the chain.

that in the war with the Tartars in Irak not fewer than four and twenty thousand learned men perished ; and that himself, and that man, pointing to his brother's son, were the only learned men who had escaped.

Ibn Juzayy, the editor, citing a chain of informants (translated by Samuel Lee, 1829)

About Mongols of Hulagu ('the Tartars')

Keep in mind

Fourth-hand report added by the editor, not by Ibn Battuta; the number cannot be checked.

The fine print

How we know

mixed Part firsthand observation, part drawn from other sources.

Traveler; dictated/redacted narrative

Research notes
  • Samuel Lee's 1829 translation is abridged and manuscript-dependent; not the complete modern Rihla.

Why it matters

Cities, courts, routes, religion and cultural observations.

Places named

Golden Horde; Crimea; Central Asia; wider Islamic world

Keep exploring