Written source · English

Jean Reuilly's travels in the Crimea, 1803

A young Frenchman's survey of the Crimea twenty years after Russian annexation, with chapters on the Tatars.

Full title Travels in the Crimea, along the Shores of the Black Sea

Jean Reuilly

Read the 11 passagesOpen the original book

Jean Reuilly travelled through the Crimea and along the Black Sea coast in 1803 and published his account in Paris in 1806; this corpus copy is the English translation of 1807, from an Indian library scan with poor OCR. He describes towns such as Perekop, Bakhchysarai, Karasubazar, Eski-Krym and Kozlov (Yevpatoria), gives a history of the peninsula, and devotes chapters to the Tatars: their three groups, houses, dress, language, hospitality, medicine and government. He stayed with the Tatar noble Atai Myrza. Much of the history and some descriptions, such as the Nogai tents credited to Thunmann, come from earlier writers.

How they knew
Part eyewitness
Who “Tartar” means here
The Crimean Tatars, whom he divides into Nogais of the steppe, Tatars of the plain and Tatars of the mountains; also the 13th-century 'Mongholes or Tartars' and the Giray khans descended from Genghis Khan.
Why read it
A compact first-hand snapshot of Tatar towns, fountains, houses and hospitality in 1803, including notes on what Russian rule was already destroying.
Watch out
The OCR is poor, so a few words are uncertain. Reuilly borrows history and some ethnography from Thunmann and others, and the notes on the titles khan and sultan are by the numismatists Langlès and Millin.

What it says: 11 passages

Tatar waterworks and fountains, and who wrecked them

Editorial contextReuilly finds Tatar-built towns narrow, unpaved and dirty, with houses hidden behind high courtyard walls. But he praises the Tatars highly for piping water by canals, sometimes over long distances, to public fountains and into houses, and blames the Russians for destroying the fountains or leaving them to decay.

Too much praise, however, cannot be given to the Tartars for their care in conducting the water by canals, sometimes from a very considerable distance, and the purposes to which they apply it; either by making public springs, or conveying it into their houses… Unfortunately, these fountains have been in a great degree destroyed by the Russians, and those which remain, decay daily for want of necessary repairs.

Jean Reuilly (English translation, 1807)

About Crimean Tatars

Bakhchysarai: thirty-one mosques and seventy-five fountains

Editorial contextReuilly describes the old khans' capital packed into a narrow valley, its main street lined with wooden shops. Because Catherine II left the town to the Tatars, no Russian townsmen lived there; the people were Tatars and Jews. He counts its mosques and fountains and describes the one-storey palace with its mosque, stables, terraced garden and cemetery of the khans.

The principal street, which is about a verst and a half in length, contains, almost the whole way along, two rows of miserable wooden shops. As the empress Catherine gave up this town to the Tartars, it contains no Russian burgesses, but is inhabited entirely by Tartars and Jews… Bachtchisarai contains thirty-one mosques, and seventy-five fountains.

Jean Reuilly (English translation, 1807)

About Crimean Tatars; Karaite Jews

Karasubazar's trading khans and the ruins of old Krim

Editorial contextAt the market town of Karasubazar he counts twenty-three mosques and describes the merchants' khans (warehouses) that look like old Gothic palaces. Eski-Krym, the old Tatar capital that gave the whole peninsula its name, now lies in ruins in a fertile plain, its gardens abandoned.

They reckon in Carasubasar, twenty-three mosques, and three Greek or Armenian churches. The khans, or houses of depôt for commerce, resemble old Gothic palaces… Eski-krym, anciently Krim, which, under the Tatars, gave its name to the whole peninsula, is situated, with its extensive ruins, in a fertile plain at the foot of the mountain

Jean Reuilly (English translation, 1807)

About Crimean Tatars; Greeks, Jews, Armenians

Brick houses on the plain, flat turf roofs in the mountains

Editorial contextReuilly contrasts two kinds of settled Tatar house. Plains Tatars live in small Turkish-style houses of stone or, lacking stone, brick, and burn dried cakes of turf and dung. Mountain Tatars build on steep slopes with flat turf roofs, packed so closely that each row of roofs forms a street for the row above.

they inhabit small houses built after the Turkish fashion, and make use of bricks, when they cannot procure stone… their houses, which are built on the steep sides of the mountains, are roofed with turf in a flat manner… and they are built so close together, that these flat roofs seem like a street for the row of houses which stands next above them

Jean Reuilly (English translation, 1807)

About Crimean Tatars (plain and mountain)

Show 7 more passages

Portable Nogai huts of twigs and felt

Editorial contextReuilly describes the seven or eight thousand Nogais roaming between the Berda and the Molochna. Their round huts, about eight feet across, have a wicker wall and dome covered with rush mats and brown felt, a smoke-hole and a tiny door; the furniture is a few cushions, a low table, pots and dishes. He adds that they were starting to build fixed houses and farm.

They encamp themselves in little cabins of felt; their tents, according to Thunmann, are a kind of portable huts, of a circular form, of about eight feet in diameter, made of lath-work or hurdles of twigs, about the size of a thumb, forming a sort of wall about four feet in height, upon which rests a dome or roof of the same structure

Jean Reuilly (English translation, 1807), citing Johann Thunmann

About Nogai Tatars (remnant of the Kuban Tatars)

Keep in mind

The tent description is taken from Thunmann's earlier book, not Reuilly's own observation.

A young mare killed for an honoured guest

Editorial contextReuilly says Tatar nobles still kill a horse to feast a distinguished guest. When he arrived at the house of Atai Myrza's brother, the prince told him a young mare had been slaughtered in his honour; the interpreter explained this was the greatest compliment, since a mare was the most precious thing he could offer.

They still retain the practice of killing a horse, to make a feast on the arrival of a guest of distinction. On my arrival at the house of the brother of Atai Myrza, this prince said to me, “You are very welcome. As soon as I hear that you had come, I ordered a young mare to be killed, to give you a feast.”

Jean Reuilly (English translation, 1807)

About Crimean Tatar nobility (family of Atai Myrza)

Coffee-houses, hawking and a singer with a guitar

Editorial contextNoble Tatars love hawking and hare-hunting; in town, men spend whole days cross-legged in coffee-houses, smoking and talking. Sometimes a singer recites stories or verses to a guitar-like instrument while the listeners nod in approval. Reuilly finds Tatar song 'grave, harsh, and discordant' and describes a dance of shaking limbs with the feet barely leaving the ground.

Hawking and hunting the hare, form the greatest delight of the noble Tartars. In the towns their amusements are reduced to meeting in the coffee-houses… Sometimes a singer recites a story or chaunts verses, accompanying himself with a bad instrument, in the shape of a guitar; the assembly listens with the greatest attention, and expresses the pleasure it receives by slight motions of the head.

Jean Reuilly (English translation, 1807)

About Crimean Tatars

A Turkish dialect even Turks struggle with

Editorial contextReuilly says the Tatars speak a Turkish dialect so mixed with Mongol and Arabic words that a Turk finds it hard to follow, and the Nogais are hardest of all to understand because they speak fast and gutturally.

Though the general language of the Tartars is only a Turkish dialect, yet it is intermixed with such a number of Mogol and Arabic words, that a Turk has a difficulty to understand it. The Nogays in particular render themselves scarcely intelligible, by the quickness with which they speak, and the guttural pronunciation.

Jean Reuilly (English translation, 1807)

About Crimean Tatars; Nogai Tatars

A note on this quote

The scan is too rough to double-check this quote by machine. Compare it with the page.

The nameCrimealate 15th century

How the Nogais came to the Crimea

Editorial contextIn his history chapter Reuilly says that when Mengli Giray became khan under Ottoman protection (1478), few Tatars actually lived in the Crimea; the khan settled thousands of Nogais captured in wars on the Volga, and his successors peopled the Kuban and the lands between the Don and Dniester the same way.

When the sovereignty of the peninsula passed to Menguely Guerai, there were not many Tartars amongst its inhabitants; but the wars which he carried on with them on the banks of the Volga, afforded him an opportunity to bring with him into the Crimea, several thousand Nogays, who were obliged to establish themselves in that country.

Jean Reuilly (English translation, 1807)

About Crimean Tatars; Nogai Tatars

Keep in mind

Compiled history from earlier authors; the claim of few Tatars before 1478 is his source's view.

The nameCrimea1774 to 1783 (coins)

Why the Tatar ruler is 'khan' and a sultan is a mere prince

Editorial contextIn notes on coins of the last Crimean khan, Shahin Giray, the French orientalists Langlès and Millin explain that among Turks and Persians 'sultan' means sovereign and 'khan' a lesser officer, but among the Tartars it is the reverse, perhaps because 'khan' is a Tartar word found in Kalmyk, Mongol and Manchu. They add that Shahin was the 39th and last khan and descended from Genghis Khan.

Among the Tartars on the other side, a directly contrary usage prevails, and the sovereign only has a right to the distinction of khan, which he places before his proper names, either it is because the word is originally Tartar, and is to be found, indeed, in the Calmuc dialects, Monghol, Mantchou, &c.; while sultan is Arabian

Numismatic notes by L. Langlès and A. L. Millin, printed in Reuilly's Travels (English translation, 1807)

About Crimean Tatars (Giray khans)

Broken ribs cured by drinking gruel

Editorial contextReuilly watched a Tatar remedy: a servant of Atai Myrza who broke two ribs falling from his horse was made to drink water-gruel until his belly swelled, under threat of the bastinado, so the ribs would push back into place. Reuilly will not vouch for the cure but admits the man was better by the time he left.

A domestic of Atai Myrza having fallen from his horse, and had two of his ribs broken, his master made him drink water gruel till his belly was prodigiously inflated; and when he refused to take more, he was threatened with the bastinado and drenched with the gruel… his master assuring me that the ribs would get into their places spontaneously.

Jean Reuilly (English translation, 1807)

About Crimean Tatars (household of Atai Myrza)

The fine print

How we know

firsthand The author saw the places or people described.

Traveler

Research notes
  • English translation; geographic and statistical assertions may draw on local reports.

Why it matters

Settlement, trade and regional peoples.

Places named

Crimea; Black Sea; Kuban

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