Written source · English

Lady Craven's letters from Crimea

An English aristocrat's letters from newly Russian Crimea in April 1786: Tatar towns, houses, women and the khan's palace.

Full title A Journey through the Crimea to Constantinople

Elizabeth Craven

Read the 11 passagesOpen the original book

Elizabeth Craven (1750-1828), an English writer and traveller, went by sledge and carriage from St Petersburg through Moscow and Kherson into Crimea in the spring of 1786, three years after Russia annexed the khanate. Escorted by Russian officers and Cossacks, she stayed at Karasubazar, Bakhchysarai and Sevastopol, visited Tatar women at home, lodged in the khan's palace, and sailed on to Constantinople. The book is a series of letters addressed to the Margrave of Brandenburg-Ansbach, published in London in 1789; this is that first edition. It mixes quick, lively first-hand scenes with a history of Crimea summarised from books.

How they knew
Part eyewitness
Who “Tartar” means here
The Crimean Tatars (and the Nogais the khans brought into Crimea), just after the Russian annexation of 1783. She keeps Cossacks and Kalmyks separate.
Why read it
A rare woman's view from inside Tatar households, with sharp detail on houses, dress, the Bakhchysarai palace and what Tatars told her about their land, at the very moment the khanate ended.
Watch out
She saw Crimea as a guest of the Russian administration preparing for Catherine II's visit, so her informants were mostly Russian officials. She is frank about her prejudices (dirt, 'mummery'). Letters were edited for publication, and the history is second-hand.

What it says: 11 passages

Bakhchysarai: five thousand Tatars line the streets

Editorial contextCraven rode into Bakhchysarai, 'formerly the chief residence of the Khans', escorted by some hundred well-dressed Tatar horsemen. She was told the town had 5,000 Tatar inhabitants and thought every man was out lining the streets; most looked at the ground rather than at an unveiled woman's face, while some laughed at the novelty. She adds that the town made sword blades said to rival Damascus work.

There are five thousand Tartar inhabitants here; I do not believe there was a man left in his house, the streets being lined with Tartarian men on each side; their countenances were very singular, most of them kept their eyes fixed on the ground, as we passed

Elizabeth Craven (letters published London, 1789)

About Crimean Tatars of the khan's former capital

Underground huts and a village in a circle

Editorial contextSouth of Perekop the post stations were sometimes in deserted Tatar villages, and sometimes the stable-keeper lived in a hut dug underground, which she calls common in this treeless, sun-baked country. At sunset she reached a Tatar village of huts straggling in a circle with no fence, while herds of horses, cows and sheep drifted home across the downs: 'a simple and majestic landscape'. A few lines earlier she had called Perekop's Tatar village the dirtiest place she ever saw.

The posts were sometimes in a deserted Tartarian village, and sometimes the only habitation for the stable-keeper was a hut made under ground, a common habitation in this country, where the sun is so extremely hot, and there is no shade of any sort.

Elizabeth Craven (letters published London, 1789)

About Crimean Tatars

Keep in mind

Villages were emptied by emigration after the Russian annexation of 1783; Craven does not say why these were deserted.

A Tartar house: one storey, cushions, and cupboards behind the panels

Editorial contextAt Karasubazar Craven visited the wife of the kadi (judge). The house, she writes, was a very light building of a single storey with no wooden furniture at all, only large cushions round the room. What impressed her was that the panelling slid back to reveal storage space larger than the room itself, so that 'every necessary' was hidden behind the walls.

A Tartar house is a very slight building of one story only … no chair, table, or piece of furniture in wood to be seen … large cushions are ranged round the room, on which we sat or reclined

Elizabeth Craven (letters published London, 1789)

About Crimean Tatars (the kadi's household)

The khan's palace, 'perfectly in ruins', regilded for the Empress

Editorial contextCraven lodged in the khans' palace. She describes an irregular building mostly of one floor raised on pillars of painted and gilded wood, a finely proportioned doorway with a gilt inscription, courts within courts, a harem higher than the rest, and marble-paved rooms with fountains playing. She was told it had been in ruins until the Russian governor had it repaired, regilded and repainted for Catherine II's coming visit.

The Khan's palace is an irregular building, the greatest part of it is one floor raised upon pillars of wood painted and gilt in a fanciful and lively manner

Elizabeth Craven (letters published London, 1789)

About Crimean khans (Giray dynasty)

Keep in mind

What she saw was a Russian restoration of 1786, not the palace as the khans left it.

Show 7 more passages

The kadi's wife examines an English arm

Editorial contextOnly the interpreter and a twelve-year-old boy were allowed into the women's room. The kadi's wife wore a turban with diamonds and pearls, scarlet-dyed nails and a face painted white and red with the veins drawn in blue. Craven's gloves seemed to trouble her, and once they were off the lady took her hand and felt her arm up to the shoulder, nodding approval, before coffee and rose-petal sweetmeats signalled the end of the visit.

She made me a sign to sit down; and my gloves seeming to excite much uneasiness in her I took them off … upon which she drew near, smiled, took one of my hands between her's, and winked and nodded as a sign of approbation

Elizabeth Craven (letters published London, 1789)

About Crimean Tatar women

A 'mosque' of whirling, groaning devotees

Editorial contextCraven watched men going round in a circle in a mosque, groaning and flinging their heads to the ground until they fell senseless and were dragged into side recesses; one had lain there forty hours without food. She calls it 'mummery' and was disgusted. She also notes the tall, narrow minarets and the town's trade in coloured Morocco leather.

I went to a Mosque, where several pious Mussulmen were going round in a circle in the midst of the building, groaning and flinging their heads almost to the ground and them up again, a constant motion which with the moving round one way soon put them into a kind of torture

Elizabeth Craven (letters published London, 1789)

About Crimean Tatar Muslims (a Sufi dervish circle)

Keep in mind

She did not understand what she saw and says so with open contempt; this was a dervish ritual (dhikr), not ordinary mosque worship.

Choosing exile rather than an oath to the Tsaritsa

Editorial contextCraven's host, the Russian governor, was said to have reconciled the Tatars to their new ruler by gentleness and firmness. She adds, 'to their honour', that those who could not bear to swear allegiance did not stay but left for the Caucasus, and had since repented. A rare note, from the Russian side, of the emigration that followed annexation.

I am told he has conciliated the Tartars to their change of sovereign very much by his gentleness and firmness … To their honour, I find none would stay who could not bear the idea, of taking the oaths of allegiance

Elizabeth Craven (letters published London, 1789)

About Crimean Tatars after the Russian annexation of 1783

Keep in mind

Told her by Russian officials; she hears nothing from the emigrants themselves.

'Cream of Tartar' and the cream of the Tartars

Editorial contextExplaining the title 'Kaima-Kan' (the khan's first minister), Craven confesses in a footnote that someone in her party called him 'cream of Tartar', after the chemist's powder. Afraid he would hear of it, she turned it into 'the cream of the Tartars'. A reminder of how English ears played with the word.

a person called him cream of Tartar … which I fearing he should be told of, turned into the cream of the Tartars

Elizabeth Craven, footnote (letters published London, 1789)

About Crimean Tatars (the khan's first minister)

The nameStaryi Krym, Crimeawritten 1786 (history to 1333)

How the peninsula got the name Krim

Editorial contextIn a history letter written before entering Crimea, Craven summarises its past: the Mongols or Tartars conquered it in 1237, and because they traded heavily at the town of Krim, the whole peninsula took that name, the only one Eastern peoples used. When she later reached the site (n198) she found 'not a vestige' of the ancient town left.

and, as the Tartars carried on a great trade in the town of Krim, the peninsula took the name of Krim, by which only it is known to the Orientals at this hour

Elizabeth Craven (letters published London, 1789)

About Mongols or Tartars of the Golden Horde

Keep in mind

A second-hand summary of history from books she does not name.

'The sea once lay at the foot' of the cliffs

Editorial contextThe house of the chief minister's sister stood below extraordinary rocks full of springs. On their summits, Craven says, were marks where huge cables had 'certainly passed and been tied', and the Tatars insisted the sea had once reached the foot of the cliffs and ships were moored there. At dinner she found Tatar cooking 'much grease and honey', and her hostess served two quarts of sherbet, coffee and sweets.

The Tartarians insist upon it that the sea once lay at the foot of them … and ships were fastened to them

Elizabeth Craven (letters published London, 1789)

About Crimean Tatars

Keep in mind

The belief is the Tatars'; the 'cable' marks were probably natural weathering grooves, but Craven gives no more detail than this.

A khan's dome for a beloved Christian wife

Editorial contextFrom her window Craven saw a domed building and was told a khan built it as the tomb of a Christian wife he loved so much he could not be consoled, placing it where he could always see it. It is the story later attached to the Dilara Bikeç mausoleum. A footnote adds ruined baths and summer houses near the town; she went into one round bath lined with white marble, with niches for bathers.

I saw from the windows a kind of dome which raised my curiosity, and I am told it is a monument built to the memory of a Christian wife, which the Khan loved so tenderly that he was inconsolable for her loss

Elizabeth Craven (letters published London, 1789)

About Crimean khans

Keep in mind

A romantic local story told to her; the source does not name the khan or the wife.

The fine print

How we know

firsthand The author saw the places or people described.

Woman traveler / letter writer

Research notes
  • Published letters are a mediated narrative, not unedited field notes.

Why it matters

Settlements, travel conditions and encounters in Crimea.

Places named

Crimea; Black Sea

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