Written source · English

Muraviev's embassy to the Khan of Khiva

A young Russian officer's account of crossing the Turkmen desert to Khiva in 1819, being held prisoner for 48 days, and meeting the Khan in his felt tent.

Full title Muraviev’s Journey to Khiva through the Turcoman Country

Nikolai Muraviev

Read the 16 passagesOpen the original book

Nikolai Muraviev, a Russian staff officer, was sent by General Yermolov in 1819 to win over the Turkmens of the eastern Caspian and open relations with Khiva. He crossed the Karakum by caravan with Turkmen guides, was held for 48 days in a small fort near Khiva, and finally had an audience with Muhammad Rahim Khan before returning to the Caspian. The second half is a general survey of the khanate: its peoples, towns, forts, trade, slaves, customs and beliefs, partly from his own observation and partly from informants. This corpus copy is Captain W. S. A. Lockhart's 1871 English translation, printed in Calcutta, made from Philipp Strahl's German version of the 1822 Russian original.

How they knew
Part eyewitness
Who “Tartar” means here
Muraviev uses 'Tartary' for the great steppe between Russia and India, and 'Tartars' for Turkic peoples such as the 'Tartars in Georgia' (Azerbaijani Turks) and the Tatars of Kazan, whose language he says is close to Khivan Turkic. He insists the Turkmens are 'most incorrectly' called a Tartar race by European writers.
Why read it
A vivid first-hand look at a Central Asian court where the ruler lived in a felt yurt beside his mud palace, plus clear descriptions of mud forts, towns and ruins, and what local people believed about them.
Watch out
This is a translation of a translation (Russian to German to English), and the translator sometimes notes Muraviev's contradictions. Muraviev was a Russian agent writing for his government and is hostile to the Khivans and Turkmens.

What it says: 16 passages

CitiesKhiva1819 to 1820

Khiva: a turquoise dome and mud streets

Editorial contextMuraviev describes Khiva as a walled town between two canals whose chief buildings were the great mosque with its turquoise-blue dome, a rather insignificant palace and some smaller mosques. Most building was in mud, the streets were narrow, and a market was held twice a week. Locals said its old name was Khivak and that it existed before the Amu Darya changed course.

The principal buildings are the great mosque, with its dome of turquoise-blue (a colour revered by Mussulmans) ; the Khan's palace, which is, however, an insignificant structure, and several smaller mosques. Mud is the material in general use for building purposes. The streets are narrow.

Nikolai Muraviev (translated by W. S. A. Lockhart, 1871)

About Uzbek khanate of Khiva

Mud-walled towns that last because it rarely rains

Editorial contextMuraviev lists the five towns of the khanate, with New Urgench larger and busier than Khiva itself. All were walled, but their buildings were mean and made almost entirely of mud, with walls faced with stone only here and there. They survived for years only because so little rain fell.

The buildings in all the above towns are very mean (the only ones approaching to anything like size being a few mosques), and mud is the almost universal material of the houses, as it may also be said to be that of the town walls … In spite of this perishable material, the buildings stand for many years, owing to the very scanty rain fall.

Nikolai Muraviev (translated by W. S. A. Lockhart, 1871)

About Sarts, Uzbeks and Turkmens of Khiva

BuildingsKhiva20 November 1819

The Khan receives the envoy in a yurt

Editorial contextAfter weeks of waiting, Muraviev was led through a fine brick gateway and a series of mud-walled courtyards. In the last, weedy courtyard stood the Khan's yurt, and the ruler sat inside it cross-legged on a carpet while the Russian envoy stood at the entrance.

On reaching the end of this corridor, we had to go down two steps into a fourth court-yard, larger than the other three, but surpassing them all in filth, and covered here and there with weeds. In the middle of this stood the Khan's Yurt.

Nikolai Muraviev (translated by W. S. A. Lockhart, 1871)

About Muhammad Rahim Khan of Khiva (Uzbek)

BuildingsKhiva1819 to 1820

A khan who lived in a felt tent

Editorial contextMuraviev says the Khan of Khiva lived in a felt tent all year round and kept his houses only for his wives, spending most of his time hawking and hunting on the steppe. He also notes the Khan had banned alcohol and tobacco on pain of having one's mouth slit.

His mode of living is quite nomadic, for he occupies a felt tent all the year round, keeping his houses for his wives only. The greater part of his time is passed in the steppe, hawking or hunting, snipe and wild goats being his favourite game.

Nikolai Muraviev (translated by W. S. A. Lockhart, 1871)

About Muhammad Rahim Khan of Khiva

Show 12 more passages
BuildingsKhiva1819 to 1820

Mud houses, felt tents, bricks from old ruins

Editorial contextMany Khivans, even the rich, lived in felt tents all year because they were used to nomad life. Houses were of cheap mud with a hole in the roof for smoke. The fine buildings were a few mosques, above all the turquoise-domed great mosque, and bridges were built of fired bricks taken from old ruins.

The houses are very bad and wretched, and a great portion of the people live in felt tents all the year round. Even the wealthy do this, although they possess houses, because they are so accustomed to a nomadic life. The houses are of mud … Bridges are numerous, and are constructed of the burnt bricks which they get from old ruins.

Nikolai Muraviev (translated by W. S. A. Lockhart, 1871)

About Uzbeks and other people of the Khiva khanate

Mud castles of the Khivan landowners

Editorial contextConstant feuds had led landowners to build square fortified farmsteads with granaries, tanks, mills and stables for 100 to 150 people. Muraviev gives their size and materials: mud walls 18 to 20 feet high, sometimes of masonry, with domed corner towers and battlements that were only for show. He was himself held in one of these forts.

The buildings are in the form of a square, and are surrounded by walls generally of mud, but sometimes of masonry. The walls are 8 feet thick at the base, diminishing to 3 at the summit, and are from 18 to 20 feet high. They are supported on the exterior faces by round buttresses, also of mud, and are crenelated, but the battlements are merely for show

Nikolai Muraviev (translated by W. S. A. Lockhart, 1871)

About Uzbek landowners of Khiva

The 'Silver Hill': a buried brick fortress

Editorial contextWhat looked like a hill on the coast turned out to be the sand-covered shell of a huge fired-brick building with a wall about 600 feet long. Muraviev dug for coins and found Muslim-style graves and broken glass. The local Turkmens told him it had been built by the Russians, and a translator's footnote links it to an ancient wall along the Gorgan River.

The Silver Hill is, as above mentioned, only the shell of some huge building or fortress, which has been covered with sand from the eastern side ; nevertheless within those walls I found tombs, and, indeed, got at some human remains, buried after the Mahomedan fashion … The great wall is about 600 feet long and over 12 feet in height. It consists of beautiful burnt bricks

Nikolai Muraviev (translated by W. S. A. Lockhart, 1871)

About Yomut Turkmens (living around it); builders unknown

Keep in mind

The site lies at the western end of the brick barrier now called the Great Wall of Gorgan, usually dated to the Sasanian period. The claim that Russians built it is local belief, and the footnote rejects it.

Turkmen tents like those of the Georgian Tartars

Editorial contextOn the Caspian coast Muraviev compared Turkmen dwellings to those of the 'Tartars in Georgia' (Turkic-speaking Muslims of the Caucasus): reed mats on long poles covered with felt. He also notes that Turkmen women did not hide from strangers and wore very tall headdresses edged with gold or silver.

The dwelling-places of the Turcomans are constructed like those of the Tartars in Georgia, that is to say, they consist of rush mats stretched on long poles, the whole being covered with felt. Their women are not kept in privacy

Nikolai Muraviev (translated by W. S. A. Lockhart, 1871)

About Yomut Turkmens

Daily lifeKhivaDecember 1819

A note hidden in a gun barrel

Editorial contextPreparing to leave, Muraviev found a slip of paper secretly pushed into his gun barrel by Russian captives, begging him to tell the Tsar of more than 3,000 Russian slaves suffering in Khiva. Elsewhere he says most were kidnapped on the Orenburg frontier by Kazakhs and sold at Khiva, and that Russian slaves were the khanate's only smiths.

As I was preparing to clean this gun, I discovered a slip of paper in one of the barrels, on which the following was written in Russian : "We venture to inform your Honor that there are over 3,000 Russian slaves in this place, who have to suffer unheard-of misery from labour, cold, hunger, &c. Have pity on our unhappy situation and reveal it to the Emperor.

Nikolai Muraviev, quoting a note from Russian slaves (translated by W. S. A. Lockhart, 1871)

About Russian slaves in Khiva

Daily lifeKhiva1819 to 1820

Bards who sing all night

Editorial contextRich Khivans kept bards who sang the deeds of ancient heroes on a lute, growing more ecstatic as the audience applauded, sometimes through the whole night while the listeners sat still and silent.

The wealthy Khivans generally keep a bard in their service, who entertains them with stories and songs, and airs played on a sorry kind of lute. Sometimes they compose ballads relating the deeds of ancient heroes. … This singing is kept up the whole night not unfrequently, during which the host and his guests sit attentively listening, motionless, and apparently buried in meditation.

Nikolai Muraviev (translated by W. S. A. Lockhart, 1871)

About Uzbeks and wealthy Khivans

Oaths at a saint's tomb and fortune-telling sticks

Editorial contextThe Yomut Turkmens settled disputes by swearing an oath over a saint's tomb, believing a perjurer could only escape damnation by dying on the spot. Muraviev also describes Khivan fortune-tellers who read letters from a book, or threw sticks onto a circle of other sticks each standing for a letter.

The Yomud Turcomans adore a Saint over whose tomb they settle their differences by an oath. A false oath under those circumstances is unknown, for it is firmly believed that whoever forswears himself over the tomb can only save himself from eternal punishment by dying on the spot.

Nikolai Muraviev (translated by W. S. A. Lockhart, 1871)

About Yomut Turkmens and Khivans

'Most incorrectly' called Tartars

Editorial contextMuraviev says the scattered Turkmen tribes share a common origin but have been 'most incorrectly' called a Tartar race by European writers. He suggests the word came from Tatar, the founder of a tribe of that name still living in the far steppes.

This people has been most incorrectly denominated the Tartar race by several European authors. The term was probably borrowed from Tatar, the Chief who founded the tribe of that name, existing in the remoter steppes to the present day.

Nikolai Muraviev (translated by W. S. A. Lockhart, 1871)

About Turkmens

Keep in mind

The eponymous chief 'Tatar' is a traditional explanation, not established history.

The nameKhiva1819 to 1820

Uzbek means 'own master'

Editorial contextMuraviev explains the Uzbek name as 'own master' (uz = self, beg = master) and adds, with some irony, that since Muhammad Rahim Khan made himself absolute ruler, the Uzbeks of Khiva now called themselves 'khidmatgar', servants.

"Us" in Turkish signifies "self" and "Beg" master, so Usbeg may be translated as "Own Master." The name was appropriate enough up to the time of the reigning Khan, Mahomed Ragim, who, by ability, craft, and force, established himself as uncontrolled Ruler, since when his countrymen in Khiva style themselves "Khidmatgar" (servant) instead of "Usbeg."

Nikolai Muraviev (translated by W. S. A. Lockhart, 1871)

About Uzbeks of Khiva

Keep in mind

A popular folk etymology; the name probably comes from the 14th-century Golden Horde khan Özbeg.

Five doors in the cliff and a hidden king

Editorial contextAlong the dry old bed of the Amu Darya, Muraviev passed five neat openings cut in a cliff, called Besh Dishik. The Turkmens said they led to caverns where a king with his family and treasure had lived since ancient times, and that intruders were strangled by an unseen hand. When one man doubted, another pointed to the cliff's echo as proof.

The nomadic Turcomans of the surrounding country are all assured that these apertures are the approaches to vast caverns in which from time immemorial there has dwelt a King with a numerous family, countless treasure, and beauteous daughters, but that once when some inquisitive persons tried to intrude into the caverns, they were immediately seized by an unseen hand and strangled.

Nikolai Muraviev (translated by W. S. A. Lockhart, 1871)

About Turkmen nomads

Keep in mind

A local legend; Muraviev tried to climb up but could not reach the openings.

Strange talesKhiva1819 to 1820

The devil's claws on the moon

Editorial contextMuraviev says that even the court astronomer who could calculate eclipses believed, like everyone in Khiva, that an eclipse happened when the devil grabbed the sun or moon, and that shouting and firing guns would drive him off. They called the North Star the 'iron point' at the end of the earth's axis and compared the earth to a watermelon.

he does not even know the cause of an eclipse, but believes with the rest of the people that it is brought about by the devil fastening his claws on to the sun or moon, and thinks a loud noise and the firing off of guns necessary to get rid of this dreadful enemy. The earth they believe to be round and compare it to a water-melon.

Nikolai Muraviev (translated by W. S. A. Lockhart, 1871)

About Khivans

Keep in mind

Muraviev writes condescendingly about Khivan learning.

A Russian hut on the old Oxus nobody dares touch

Editorial contextThe Turkmens told Muraviev that at the mouth of the dry river bed stood a hut built in the Russian style that no one would pull down out of superstitious fear, and whose builder nobody knew. Muraviev guessed it dated from Prince Bekovich's expedition sent by Peter the Great a century earlier.

Kiat informed me that the mouth of this old river bed, although choked with sand, is still distinguishable on the Caspian, and that by it there stands a hut (isba) constructed on the Russian plan. No one knows who the builder of this was, but the neighbouring Turcomans are restrained from demolishing it by superstitious dread.

Nikolai Muraviev (translated by W. S. A. Lockhart, 1871)

About Turkmens of the Balkhan region

Keep in mind

Muraviev did not see the hut; the link to Bekovich is his guess.

The fine print

How we know

firsthand The author saw the places or people described.

Russian envoy / traveler

Research notes
  • Later English translation; verify translator and omissions before quoting.

Why it matters

Regional society, routes and political relationships.

Places named

Turkmen country; Khiva

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