Written source · English

Moorcroft and Trebeck's travels to Ladakh, Kabul and Bukhara, 1819 to 1825

Two British travellers journey through the Himalaya, Ladakh, Afghanistan and Uzbek Turkestan to Bukhara, where their expedition ended in death.

Full title Travels in the Himalayan Provinces … and Bokhara

William Moorcroft; George Trebeck

Read the 10 passagesOpen the original book

William Moorcroft, superintendent of the East India Company's horse stud, and his young companion George Trebeck travelled from 1819 to 1825 through the Himalayan hill states, Ladakh, Kashmir, Kabul, Kunduz and Balkh to Bukhara, hoping to open trade and buy horses. Both died on the way home. The orientalist Horace Hayman Wilson edited their journals and letters, published in two volumes in London in 1841; both volumes are in this corpus. Tartars appear as the Tibetan-speaking peoples of Lahoul, Spiti and Ladakh, the 'Kalmak Tartars' who once invaded Ladakh, and the Uzbeks and Kazaks of Turkestan.

How they knew
Eyewitness
Who “Tartar” means here
Very loose: Tibetan-speaking hill peoples of Lahoul, Spiti and Ladakh ('Hither Tatary'); the Kalmak (Oirat) Mongols; and, in Wilson's preface, the Uzbek ruler of Kunduz.
Why read it
A careful eyewitness record of how people in Ladakh and Uzbek Turkestan actually built and lived: brick and poplar-beam houses, domed clay towns, felt and reed tents, and the crumbled ruins of Balkh.
Watch out
Wilson assembled the text after both men died, and some sections are Trebeck's journal, not Moorcroft's. 'Tartar' here often means Tibetan-speaking highlanders, not steppe nomads. Moorcroft's commercial and political aims colour his judgments.

What it says: 10 passages

CitiesLehabout 1680 (reported)

The Kalmak Tartars once occupied Leh

Editorial contextMoorcroft summarises Ladakh's history as he heard it: about 150 years earlier the 'Kalmak Tartars' invaded and occupied Leh, and the raja fled to Kashmir to ask the Mughal governor for help. The Mughals drove the Tartars out on condition the raja became a Muslim, and a mosque was built in Leh that still stood in Moorcroft's day (next page).

About a century and a half ago, the Kalmak Tartars invaded Ladakh, and occupied Lé, and the Raja flew to Kashmir, and implored the aid of Ibrahim Khan, the governor of that province in the reign of Aurangzeb.

William Moorcroft (edited by H. H. Wilson, 1841)

About Kalmak Tartars (Oirat Mongols) and Ladakhis

Keep in mind

Local history reported to Moorcroft; the invasion matches the Tibet-Mongol war with Ladakh of 1679 to 1684.

CitiesBalkhFebruary 1825

Balkh, 'mother of cities', in ruins

Editorial contextApproaching Balkh, once capital of Bactria, Moorcroft passed ruins said to be the elephant stables of the old kings of Turkestan, then entered through a broken gate into streets of rubbish, broken bricks and crumbling clay walls. On the next pages he says only one covered bazaar was still inhabited, the population was under a thousand families, and there were no relics of antiquity apart from one tiled shrine.

A short distance in advance brought us to the ruins of some buildings, said to have been the elephant stables of the kings of Turkistan: similar remains accompanied the road to the wall of the modern town, which we entered by a mean gateway, the folding-doors of which were off their hinges and lying in the mud, no insignificant type of neglect and decay.

William Moorcroft (edited by H. H. Wilson, 1841)

About Uzbek-ruled Turkestan

A Kazak camp of felt tents and reed huts

Editorial contextJust across the Oxus, Moorcroft passed through a Kazak owal (aul, a tent village) of khirgahs (felt tents) and kappahs, round huts of mats and reeds with conical tops. Saddled horses waited at the doors, and the cattle were stabled in pits dug in the ground and roofed with branches, grass and sand.

we passed through an owal, or station of Khirgahs and Kappahs, or circular huts of mats and reeds, with a conical top. Horses stood saddled at the doors of the tents, and mares and foals, and many camels, were grazing in the adjoining jangal. The cows were stabled in holes made in the ground, roofed with branches of trees and grass, and covered with sand and bushes.

William Moorcroft (edited by H. H. Wilson, 1841)

About Kazaks; Turkmen

BuildingsLeh1820 to 1822

Leh: houses of unburnt brick and poplar beams

Editorial contextMoorcroft describes the walled capital of Ladakh: towers on the hills, a labyrinth of streets, and houses of one to three storeys built mostly of large unburnt bricks, a few of stone, whitewashed outside. On the next page he explains the flat roofs of poplar trunks, willow shoots, straw and earth, which leaked in rain.

The walls are in a few instances wholly, or in part of stone, but in general they are built with large unburnt bricks: they are whitened outside with lime, but remain of their original colour inside.

William Moorcroft (edited by H. H. Wilson, 1841)

About Ladakhis (people of what Moorcroft called Hither Tatary)

Keep in mind

Ladakhis are Tibetan, not Turkic or Mongol; they count here only because Moorcroft placed Ladakh in 'Hither Tatary'.

Show 6 more passages

Tash Kurghan: domed houses of clay and sun-dried brick

Editorial contextMoorcroft describes the Uzbek-ruled market town of Tash Kurghan: about 20,000 one-storey houses of clay and sun-dried brick, domed 'in the usual fashion of the country', each in its own walled yard with fruit trees, along straight streets that crossed at right angles with water running down them.

Tash Kurghan is about three miles in circumference, and may comprise about twenty thousand houses. They are built of clay and sun-dried bricks, of one story, with domes in the usual fashion of the country, and each stands by itself in a walled enclosure, often containing fruit-trees.

William Moorcroft (edited by H. H. Wilson, 1841)

About Uzbeks and Tajiks

'Tartar cookery' on the road to Ladakh

Editorial contextMoorcroft saw his Lahouli porters cook a sheep that had died in the night: skinned, cut up and boiled whole in a big cauldron with all the innards, together with cakes of flour mixed with the blood. He calls it 'Tartar cookery' and admits he did not care to join in.

We had an opportunity here of witnessing Tartar cookery on a more sumptuous scale than usual, but it was not of a character to invite a participation in the meal. A sheep belonging to some of the carriers having died in the night, the carcase was skinned and cut up, and boiled in a large cauldron, together with all the viscera

William Moorcroft (edited by H. H. Wilson, 1841)

About Lahouli carriers (Tibetan-speaking, called Tartars)

Daily lifeIli (Xinjiang)early 1820s (reported)

Kalmak Tatars moved to Ili as horse breeders

Editorial contextFrom merchants' reports Moorcroft learned that many 'Kalmak Tatars' had once lived around Khotan but had been deported by the Chinese to the Ili valley, where some 200,000 families bred cattle, camels and horses and paid one head in a hundred as tax. They brought ten to twenty thousand geldings a year to Ili for sale.

A considerable portion of the population of Khoten consisted formerly of Kalmak Tatars, but it is said that when the Chinese subjugated the province, they deported the Kalmaks to the cities which collectively constitute the modern city of Ila, on the river of the same name, and to the adjacent districts.

William Moorcroft (edited by H. H. Wilson, 1841)

About Kalmak Tatars (Oirats) under Qing rule

Keep in mind

Secondhand information; the population figure is a trader's estimate.

The nameKunduz1824 to 1825

Murad Beg of Kunduz, 'a Tartar' and a robber

Editorial contextIn his preface Wilson blames the failure of the expedition on Murad Beg, the Uzbek chief of Kunduz, whom he calls 'a Tartar of activity and ambition, but a barbarian and a robber'. Moorcroft's own journal (T0023, n459, p.446) quotes Murad Beg answering a plea to keep his word: 'What have I, what has an Uzbek to do with character?' Here 'Tartar' means an Uzbek.

His death, and the dissensions which ensued amongst his sons, transferred the ascendancy to Murad Beg, a Tartar of activity and ambition, but a barbarian and a robber.

Horace Hayman Wilson (editor's preface, 1841)

About Uzbeks (Qataghan) of Kunduz

Keep in mind

The editor's judgment, written from Moorcroft's papers and hostile to Murad Beg.

The people of Spiti are 'completely of Tartar appearance'

Editorial contextOn his side trip to Spiti (Piti), Trebeck described the people as 'completely of Tartar appearance in form and face', then went on to their dress, drinking, and the braided hair of the women decorated with amber and coral. It shows 'Tartar' used by British travellers for any Tibetan or Central Asian looking highlander.

The people of Piti are completely of Tartar appearance in form and face; the men are less robust and better grown than those more to the north, and the women are far from good looking.

George Trebeck (journal, edited by H. H. Wilson, 1841)

About Spiti people (Tibetan-speaking)

Keep in mind

A physical stereotype, not an ethnic identification.

Reading Gibbon on Genghis Khan to an Uzbek holy man

Editorial contextSheltering with a respected Uzbek pir (khaja) at Talikan, Moorcroft tried to translate into Persian the chapters of Gibbon's Decline and Fall about Genghis Khan and Timur. His host corrected the Persian style, was surprised a European knew so much about the 'Moguls', and admitted many facts were new to him. A European history of the Mongols thus travelled back to Central Asia.

Whilst under his protection, I attempted to render into Persian, for his use, the chapters of Gibbon which treat of Jangez Khan and Timur, in which the khaja took much interest, and corrected the style of the translation. He was much surprised that a European should have known so much of the history of the Moguls, and admitted that many of the facts were new to him

William Moorcroft (edited by H. H. Wilson, 1841)

About Uzbeks

The fine print

How we know

firsthand The author saw the places or people described.

Travelers; posthumous edited journals

Research notes
  • H. H. Wilson edited after the travelers' deaths; track which traveler supplied each passage.

Why it matters

Central Asian and Himalayan commerce, towns, routes and material culture.

Places named

Ladakh; Kashmir; Afghanistan; Bukhara

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