Written source · English

Alexander Burnes's journey from India to Bukhara, 1831 to 1833

A young British officer rides in disguise from the Indus over the Hindu Kush to Bukhara and home through the Turkmen desert and Persia.

Full title Travels into Bokhara

Alexander Burnes

Read the 14 passagesOpen the original book

Alexander Burnes, a lieutenant in the East India Company's army, travelled in 1831 to 1833 from Lahore through Kabul, Bamiyan, Balkh and Bukhara, then across the Turkmen desert to Persia, largely disguised as an Afghan. His Travels into Bokhara (London, John Murray, 1834) became a bestseller. It gives eyewitness descriptions of Uzbek towns, Turkmen tent camps, Bamiyan's caves and statues and the bazaars of Bukhara, plus chapters of general history and ethnology. All three volumes of the 1834 edition are in this corpus. Burnes uses 'Tartary' for Turkestan north of the Hindu Kush and 'Tartar' for Uzbeks, Turkmen, Hazaras, Kalmyks, Nogais and the historic conquerors from Genghis Khan to Timur.

How they knew
Part eyewitness
Who “Tartar” means here
Mainly the Turkic and Mongol peoples of Central Asia: Uzbeks, Turkmen, Kazakhs, Kyrgyz, Kalmyks, the Tatar Hazaras and Nogais, and the armies of Genghis Khan and Timur. 'Tartary' is his name for Turkestan north of the Hindu Kush.
Why read it
Burnes tells you exactly where 'Tartary' began on the ground, what Turkmen felt tents and Uzbek towns looked like, and which ruins locals credited to whom, from Bamiyan's Buddhas to Timur's Samarkand.
Watch out
Burnes was a political agent gathering intelligence, and his general chapters mix eyewitness notes with book learning, Persian manuscripts and sweeping ideas about race. Some towns (Samarkand) he never reached and describes from report.

What it says: 14 passages

Bukhara's brick bazaars and the Registan

Editorial contextBurnes describes Bukhara as a city of lofty, arched brick bazaars, each trade in its own quarter, massive colleges, mosques and minarets, twenty caravanserais and about a hundred ponds and fountains of squared stone. People believed the tallest minaret, about 150 feet, reached the level of Timur's Samarkand. In the Registan square a visitor could meet Turkmen, Kalmyks and Kazakhs from the deserts.

when the traveller passes its gates he winds his way among lofty and arched bazars of brick, and sees each trade in its separate quarter of the city; here the chintz sellers, there the shoemakers; one arcade filled with silks, another with cloth. Every where he meets with ponderous and massy buildings, colleges, mosques, and lofty minarets.

Alexander Burnes (1834)

About Uzbeks and the peoples of Central Asia

A Turkmen camp of 150 black 'beehives'

Editorial contextOn the desert road Burnes halted at a Turkmen oba (camp) of about 150 conical, movable huts called khirgahs, scattered on a rise with no order, like giant beehives with black roofs, with the children swarming like bees. A Turkmen settlement of this size was a whole mobile town.

It consisted of about 150 conical moveable huts, called "khirgahs," which were perched on a rising ground. There was no order in the distribution, and they stood like so many gigantic beehives

Alexander Burnes (1834)

About Turkmen

CitiesSamarkand1832 (reported)

Samarkand, Timur's capital, shrunk to a provincial town

Editorial contextBurnes could not safely visit Samarkand, so he describes it from report: once Timur's capital, now a town of 8000 to 10,000 people, with gardens and fields where streets and mosques had been. Three colleges survived, including Ulugh Beg's with enamelled bricks, and Timur's tomb under a lofty dome decorated with agate. Its possession still made a Bukhara king legitimate.

The city has now declined from its grandeur to a provincial town of 8000, or at most 10,000, inhabitants, and gardens and fields occupy the place of its streets and mosques; but it is still regarded with high veneration by the people.

Alexander Burnes (1834)

About Uzbeks (heirs of the Timurids)

Keep in mind

Burnes did not see Samarkand; this is hearsay from Bukhara.

Balkh: slaughtered by Genghis, built of frail brick

Editorial contextBurnes lists Balkh's fate: its people 'butchered in cold blood by Jenghis Khan', then ruled by the house of Timur, the Mughals, Nadir Shah, the Afghans and Bukhara. In 1832 it had under 2000 people. Looking at its crumbling remains he doubts it was ever a substantial city, since its buildings rested only on brick foundations.

Its inhabitants were butchered in cold blood by Jenghis Khan; and under the house of Timour it became a province of the Mogul empire. … and from the frail materials of which its buildings are constructed, the foundations being only brick, I doubt if Balkh ever were a substantial city.

Alexander Burnes (1834)

About Inhabitants of Balkh; Mongols under Genghis Khan

Show 10 more passages

Beehive houses of the first 'Tartar' villages

Editorial contextNorth of the Hindu Kush Burnes saw houses with domes instead of flat roofs, a hole in the top for smoke, so that a village looked like 'a cluster of large brown beehives'. He explains the style by the lack of timber. The people too had changed: conical skull-caps, long brown boots, and unveiled village women he calls fair and handsome, 'though they were Tartars'.

they have domes instead of terraces, with a hole in the roof as a chimney; so that a village has the appearance of a cluster of large brown beehives. The inhabitants adopt this style of building, as wood is scarce.

Alexander Burnes (1834)

About Uzbeks and Tajiks

The caves and giant statues of Bamiyan

Editorial contextAt Bamiyan Burnes found a valley honeycombed for eight miles with caves, still home to most of the people, and the two great statues. He reports local traditions: the caves were the work of a king named Julal, the statues were made by 'Kaffirs' (infidels) about the time of Christ, or by the Pandavas of Hindu epic. He notes a theory that they were Buddhist, which the long ears made likely. He does not credit them to Tartars.

A detached hill in the middle of the valley is quite honeycombed by them … It is called the city of Ghoolghoola, and consists of a continued succession of caves in every direction, which are said to have been the work of a king named Julal.

Alexander Burnes (1834)

About Hazaras (Bamiyan residents); ancient builders unknown

Keep in mind

The builders are given only as local tradition and conjecture.

A Turkmen tent that travels on two camels

Editorial contextInvited into a Turkmen home at Sarakhs, Burnes found a khirgah (felt tent) twenty-five feet across with lattice sides, a roof of laths springing from a hoop three feet wide, and floors spread with felt and velvety carpets woven by the women. His host told him the whole house could go on one camel and its furniture on another.

The tent or khirgah was spacious, and had a diameter of about twenty-five feet. The sides were of lattice-work, and the roof was formed

Alexander Burnes (1834)

About Turkmen (Salor)

Keep in mind

The description continues on the next page (n83, p.60), where the host says the house and furniture travel on two camels.

Kalmyk chiefs who wear deer antlers

Editorial contextFrom Bukhara merchants Burnes heard that Kalmyk Tartars settled around Ili and Yarkand marked their chiefs and nobles by fixing deer's horns on their skull-caps, the size of the antlers showing rank. He adds a crude rumour about their women, and says the Chinese used Kalmyks to guard the frontier.

There are Calmuk Tartars settled around Eela and Yarkund, who have a singular custom to distinguish their chiefs and grandees, by fixing deer's horns on their skull-caps.

Alexander Burnes (1834)

About Kalmyk Tartars (Oirats) under Qing rule

Keep in mind

Hearsay; the next page adds a sexual slander Burnes 'was assured' of.

Turkmen roadside grave mounds

Editorial contextRiding with a sayyid near the Caspian, Burnes asked about mounds of earth with a pole in the centre. They were 'yoozka', marking where someone had died or been laid out, and Turkmen said a blessing as they passed. Burnes remarks that they were not graves but barrows raised in honour of the dead, and suspects the custom was 'Tatar'.

They are not graves, but mounds or barrows raised in honour of the dead. I entertain an impression that the usage is Tatar; but I had no opportunity of further investigation.

Alexander Burnes (1834)

About Turkmen

Keep in mind

Burnes's 'Tatar' origin is an untested hunch, as he admits.

The Tatar Hazaras, said to descend from Genghis's army

Editorial contextBurnes notes a Hazara tribe of about a thousand families called Tatar Hazaras, whom tradition made descendants of Genghis Khan's army. He points out that the only other people who called themselves Tatar were the Nogais on the Russian frontier. Earlier (vol. I, p.178) he says the Hazaras looked like Chinese and were 'Tartars by descent'.

Tradition states these people to be descendants of Jengis Khan's army, but their name of Tatar deserves remark, since the only other tribe so denominated by the people themselves is the Nogai on the frontiers of Russia.

Alexander Burnes (1834)

About Tatar Hazaras

Keep in mind

The descent from Genghis's army is tradition, which Burnes reports without proving.

Where 'Tartary' begins on the ground

Editorial contextCrossing the Akrobat pass north of Bamiyan, Burnes notes that he was leaving the kingdom of Kabul and entering Turkestan, 'which is denominated Tartary (more properly Tatary) by Europeans'. At the next village the first ruler was an Uzbek who paid his overlords partly in slaves taken in raids.

Toorkistan, which is denominated Tartary (more properly Tatary) by Europeans.

Alexander Burnes (1834)

About Uzbeks of Turkestan

The nameCentral Asiaancient to 16th century

The Tartar invasions, from Attila to the Uzbeks

Editorial contextBurnes opens a chapter 'On the Inroads of the Tartars' by lumping together Attila, Alaric, Genghis, Timur and the Uzbeks as expressions of 'the ever-wandering spirit of the Tartar people'. He places their homeland beyond the Jaxartes (Syr Darya) rather than in northern China. It shows the romantic, racial idea of 'the Tartar' that educated Britons held in the 1830s.

Attila and Alaric spread devastation in the empire of the Caesars. Jengis and Timour have succeeded them in more modern but equally destructive inroads. Through these great revolutions we trace the ever-wandering spirit of the Tartar people

Alexander Burnes (1834)

About Tartars as a catch-all for steppe conquerors

Keep in mind

Burnes's own generalisation; Alaric was a Goth, not a steppe nomad.

A petrified city on the Aral Sea

Editorial contextIn Bukhara Burnes heard tales of an enchanted, petrified city on the south-west shore of the Aral Sea called Barsa-gil-mis, Turkic for 'go and never return', because curious visitors never came back. He files it with Bukharan belief in magic and remarks that 'distance gives countenance to most of the fables'.

tales of an enchanted and petrified city which was described by the Bokharees as lying on the south-western corner of the Sea of Aral, and between Orgunje and Orenburg. They call it "Barsa-gil-mis;" which, in Toorkee, means, to go and never return; since such is said to be the fate of the curious.

Alexander Burnes (1834)

About Bukharans (storytellers)

Keep in mind

A local legend that Burnes reports with open scepticism.

Strange talesYarkand1832 (reported)

Greek soldiers' descendants in 'Chinese Tartary'

Editorial contextListing people who claimed descent from Alexander the Great, Burnes adds that Tungan soldiers from western China garrisoning Yarkand claimed descent from Alexander's soldiers. He notes the claimants in the Oxus hills were Tajiks, who lived there 'before it was overrun by Toorkee or Tartar tribes', and doubts the claims against the historical record.

the soldiers of the Toonganee tribe, who are sent from the western provinces of Chinese Tartary, and garrison Yarkund and the neighbouring cities, claim also a Grecian origin. They, however, seek, with greater modesty, a descent from the soldiers of Alexander's army

Alexander Burnes (1834)

About Tungan (Hui) soldiers; Tajik princes

Keep in mind

Reported claims that Burnes himself questions.

The fine print

How we know

firsthand The author saw the places or people described.

Traveler / British officer

Research notes
  • Three volumes grouped; official interests and local informants require identification.

Why it matters

Urban life, trade, political conditions and routes.

Places named

Afghanistan; Bukhara; Persia; Indus

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