Written source · Dutch

Struys's three calamitous voyages: the Volga, Astrakhan and slavery in Daghestan

A Dutch sailmaker's adventure story of sailing down the Volga to Astrakhan in 1669 and being enslaved by 'Tartars' in Daghestan in 1670.

Full title Three remarkable and very calamitous voyages through Italy, Greece, Livonia, Muscovy, Tartary, Media, Persia, the East Indies, Japan and various other regions (1647-1673)

Jan Janszoon Struys

Read the 13 passagesOpen the original book

Jan Janszoon Struys (c. 1629-1694) was a Dutch sailmaker hired for the Tsar's new warship Oryol, built on the Oka and sailed down the Volga to Astrakhan in 1669. He saw Stenka Razin's Cossack rising, fled across the Caspian, was captured and sold as a slave in Daghestan and Persia, and came home in 1673. His book (Dutch 1676) was written up by others for the publisher Jacob van Meurs and padded with material from Olearius and other authors. The corpus has the Dutch 1677 edition, whose black-letter OCR is hard to use, and French translations of 1681 and 1718; these accounts quote the 1681 French version by Glanius.

How they knew
Part eyewitness
Who “Tartar” means here
Almost every Muslim or pagan people of the Volga and Caucasus: the Cheremis (Mari) and Mordvins, Kazan Tatars, the Nogais of Astrakhan, the Kalmyks, Circassians and the mountain peoples of Daghestan are all 'Tartares' to Struys.
Why read it
A vivid first-person view of the lower Volga in 1669-1670: Tatar Kazan and Astrakhan under Russian rule, Nogai and Kalmyk camps, Golden Horde ruins and local legends, and what captivity among 'Tartars' felt like.
Watch out
The book was ghost-written and borrows heavily from Olearius (see Kees Boterbloem, The Fiction and Reality of Jan Struys, 2008), so treat general descriptions as copied unless Struys clearly speaks for himself; it is also full of contempt for the peoples it describes. The Dutch 1677 OCR is garbled, so the French translation is quoted here.

What it says: 13 passages

CitiesKazanJuly 1669

Kazan: wooden walls, a stone castle, and no Tatars allowed inside

Editorial contextStruys walked through Kazan, capital of the former Tatar kingdom. The town wall is only timber but the castle is good stone. Russians and Tatars both live there under a Russian governor, but Tatars are barred from the castle on pain of death. A sharp picture of a conquered Tatar capital more than a century after the Russian conquest of 1552.

Its walls are only of wood, but those of the castle are of good stone and reasonably thick … Its inhabitants are Muscovites and Tartars, who obey a governor appointed by the Great Tsar … From the guard of the castle the Tartars are excluded, and they would not dare enter it on pain of death.

Working translation

Original wording

Ses murailles ne sont que de bois, mais celles du Château sont de bonne pierre & d'une épaisseur raisonnable … Ses habitans sont Moscovites & Tartares; lesquels obeïssent à un Gouverneur établi par le Grand Czar … Pour la garde du Château, les Tartares en sont exclus, & ils n'oseroient y entrer sur peine de la vie.

Jan Struys (French translation by Glanius, Amsterdam 1681)

About Kazan Tatars under Russian rule

CitiesAstrakhan1556 (retold 1669)

Astrakhan once belonged to the Nogai Tartars

Editorial contextStruys explains that Astrakhan used to belong to the Nogai Tartars under a king, allied with the Cheremis and Kazan Tatars. After taking Kazan the Tsar marched on Astrakhan, took it just as easily and drove out the Tartars. The town, he adds, was then neither as fine nor as large as it later became under Russian rule.

This town formerly belonged to the Tartars of the Nogai, who obeyed a king … The capture of Kazan having opened the way, the victor went before Astrakhan, which he took with the same ease, and from which he drove out the Tartars

Working translation

Original wording

Cette ville étoit autrefois aux Tartares du Nagai, qui obeïssoient à un Roi … La prise de Cazan ayant rendu le chemin libre, le Vainqueur alla devant Astracan qu'il emporta avec la même facilité, & dont il chassa les Tartares

Jan Struys (French translation by Glanius, Amsterdam 1681)

About Nogai and Kazan Tatars

Keep in mind

History from books; the Astrakhan khanate was ruled by a Chinggisid khan and conquered in 1556.

Ruins of an imperial city, its stones carried off to build Astrakhan

Editorial contextNear Tsaritsyn Struys passed the ruins of Czaresgorod, the 'Imperial City', which he says Tamerlane destroyed. It had been built of hard stone, some remains of which could still be seen, but most of it had been carried off to Astrakhan to build that city. This matches the known reuse of brick and stone from the ruined Golden Horde capital, though Struys does not say who built it.

we passed near the ruins of Czaresgorod, or Imperial City, which was destroyed by Tamerlane during the war we spoke of above. It was built of hard stones, of which some remains are still seen, but most were carried to Astrakhan and served to build it.

Working translation

Original wording

nous passâmes prés des ruines de Czaresgorod ou Ville Impériale, qui fut détruite par Tamerlan pendant la guerre dont nous avons ci-dessus parlé. Elle étoit bâtie de pierres dures dont on voit encore quelques restes, mais la plupart furent portées à Astracan, & servirent à la construire.

Jan Struys (French translation by Glanius, Amsterdam 1681)

About Golden Horde (not named as such)

Keep in mind

Struys saw ruins from the river; the Tamerlane story and the stone reuse he had from others.

Nogai huts outside Astrakhan: round, of bark or reeds, covered with felt

Editorial contextThe Nogais, though natives of the land, may not live inside the walls of Astrakhan and build poor huts outside, later protected by palisades. The huts are round, about ten feet across, made of bark or woven reeds covered with roughly joined felt, with an opening in the roof that serves as chimney and is closed with felt to keep in the heat.

The Tartars of the Nogai, though natives of the country, are not free to live within the walls of the town … Their huts are built round and are usually ten feet across; they are made only of tree bark or woven reeds, and covered only with roughly joined felt. The roof is open like a trapdoor and serves them as a chimney

Working translation

Original wording

Les Tartares du Nagai quoique naturels du pays, n'ont pas la liberté de demeurer dans l'enceinte de la Ville … Leurs hutes sont bâties en rond & ont d'ordinaire dix piés de diamètre: elles ne sont faites que d'écorce d'arbre ou de roseaux entrelacés, ni couvertes que de feutre grossiérement joint. Le toit est ouvert en forme de trape, & leur tient lieu de cheminée

Jan Struys (French translation by Glanius, Amsterdam 1681)

About Nogai Tatars

Keep in mind

Some of this closely follows Olearius's description of the Nogai huts at Astrakhan.

Show 9 more passages

Huts on wagons, and guns lent only for the winter

Editorial contextIn summer the Nogais, like the Kalmyks, move camp for food and fodder, carrying their goods on camels and setting their huts on great wagons made for the purpose. In winter they camp around Astrakhan for mutual defence against Kalmyk raids across the frozen Volga, and the Russian governor lends them weapons each winter and takes them back each summer, keeping one of their princes as hostage.

for carrying their goods they have camels, and they put their huts on great wagons made for the purpose … To repel the attacks they suffer from them, the Governor of Astrakhan, who protects them, lends them arms every winter and takes them back every summer

Working translation

Original wording

pour le transport de leurs meubles, ils ont des chameaux, & mettent leurs hutes sur de grands chariots faits exprès … Pour repousser les insultes qu'ils en reçoivent, le Gouverneur d'Astracan qui les protège, leur prête des armes tous les Hivers, & les reprend tous les Etés

Jan Struys (French translation by Glanius, Amsterdam 1681)

About Nogai Tatars (and Kalmyks)

Keep in mind

How the governor handled weapons and hostages was information Struys had from others.

Captured in Daghestan: dragged behind horses, shot with blunted arrows

Editorial contextAfter a shipwreck on the Caspian coast, Struys and his companions were stripped by one band and then seized by another, who took them for spies of the rebel Razin. He describes being tied to horses' tails and driven barefoot through thorns, then bound to a tree and struck with arrows whose points had been blunted to make the torment last. Russian slaves of the prince vouched that they were Dutch, which saved their lives (two pages later).

they tied us to the tails of their horses, making us follow backwards and barefoot through the brambles and thorns with which the road was covered … tie me to a tree, where they pierced me with arrows whose iron they had blunted

Working translation

Original wording

ils nous attachèrent à la queue de leurs chevaux, nous faisant suivre à reculons & les piés nus, au travers des ronces & des épines dont le chemin étoit tout couvert … me rattacher à un arbre, où ils me percèrent à coups de flèches dont ils avoient émoussé le fer

Jan Struys (French translation by Glanius, Amsterdam 1681)

About Tartars of Daghestan (the men of 'Sultan Osmin')

Keep in mind

His own ordeal, but told in a ghost-written book that heightens every drama.

A sacrifice thrown against a hide on a post

Editorial contextOn holy days the Cheremis tie the freshly flayed hide of a cow, sheep or horse to a post, roast the meat, and throw a dish of it and a cup of mead against the hide while murmuring prayers. The page adds that they revere the sun, fire and water above all visible things.

For this they have holy days, on which they begin the ceremony by tying to a post the hide of a cow, sheep or horse flayed for the purpose; they put the meat on the coals, and when it is roasted they cut it into small pieces, fill a dish with them, take it in one hand and a cup of mead in the other, then throw the whole against the hide

Working translation

Original wording

Ils ont pour cela des jours consacrés, ausquels ils commencent la cérémonie par attacher à un poteau, une peau de vache, de mouton ou de cheval écorché exprès: ils en mettent la chair sur la braise; & quand elle est rôtie, ils la coupent par petits morceaux, dont ayant rempli un plat, ils le prennent d'une main & une tasse d'hidromel de l'autre, puis jettent le tout contre la peau

Jan Struys (French translation by Glanius, Amsterdam 1681)

About Cheremis (Mari people), called Tartars

Keep in mind

Very close to Olearius's description of the Cheremis, so probably copied.

Kalmyks and Nogais: no fixed homes, and horsemeat softened under the saddle

Editorial contextAt Saratov Struys first met the Kalmyks, whom he calls the ugliest of men. Kalmyks and Nogais, he says, have no fixed dwellings and move camp as the grazing allows; they prefer horsemeat and eat it after softening it under the saddle. The saddle-meat story is an old European stereotype about steppe riders. On the same page he wrongly calls the Kalmyks Muslims; they were Buddhists.

They have no fixed dwellings … but of all meats, horse is most to their taste. All the preparation they give it is to put it under the saddle, where, being a little softened by the horse's warmth, they take it out and make their best meals of it.

Working translation

Original wording

Ils n'ont point de demeures fixes … mais de toutes les viandes, celle de cheval est plus à leur goût. Tout l'aprêt qu'ils y font, est de la mettre sous la selle, où étant un peu amollie par la chaleur du cheval, ils l'en retirent, & en font leurs meilleurs repas.

Jan Struys (French translation by Glanius, Amsterdam 1681)

About Kalmyks and Nogais

Keep in mind

The saddle-meat tale is repeated from much older writers, and the page is openly hostile.

The Cheremis: 'Tartars' who speak Russian

Editorial contextStruys files the Cheremis under 'Tartars' (his chapter title calls them 'Tartares nommés Czérémisses'), yet on this page he says their everyday language is Russian and that they only understand, and in places speak, Tatar. They were in fact the Mari, a Finno-Ugric people. He also calls them rough and stupid, a sample of the book's contempt.

These peoples are rough, coarse and stupid … Their ordinary language is Muscovite [Russian], but they understand Tartar and even speak it in some places. They have neither priests nor churches, nor do they celebrate any of the mysteries of the Gospel.

Working translation

Original wording

Ces peuples sont rudes, grossiers & stupides … Leur Langue ordinaire est la Moscovite, mais ils entendent le Tartare, & le parlent même en quelques endroits. Ils n'ont ni Prêtres ni Eglises, ni ne célèbrent aucun des mistéres de l'Evangile.

Jan Struys (French translation by Glanius, Amsterdam 1681)

About Cheremis (Mari people), called Tartars

Keep in mind

Much of the Cheremis chapter follows Olearius, so this may be borrowed rather than observed.

A hill made of the bones of a Tartar emperor and seventy kings

Editorial contextPassing a hill called Sariol-Kurgan, Struys records a Russian tradition: the place was once a plain where an Emperor of Tartary came with seventy kings and a countless army to seize Muscovy, and was beaten there with all his men. The mountain, the story ends, is made of their bones (the OCR of those last words is damaged). Cornelis de Bruyn heard a version of the same legend in 1703 (W251).

one of them, called Sariol-Kurgan, if one believes the tradition of the Muscovites, was made in a very strange way. This place, they say, was once a vast plain, where an Emperor of Tartary came down with seventy kings and a countless army to seize Muscovy, and was beaten and defeated there with all who accompanied him

Working translation

Original wording

l'une appelée Sariol-Kurgan, si l'on en croit la tradition des Moscovites, a été faite d'une manière fort étrange. Ce lieu disent-ils, étoit autrefois une vaste plaine, où un Empereur de Tartarie étant descendu avec soixante & dix Rois & un armée innombrable pour se s'emparer de la Moscovie, il y fut battu & défait avec tous ceux qui l'accompagnoient

Jan Struys (French translation by Glanius, Amsterdam 1681)

About a legendary 'Emperor of Tartary'

Keep in mind

A local legend told by Russians; a kurgan is a burial mound, but nothing here dates it or names its builders.

The vegetable lamb: 'I have seen several'

Editorial contextOn the salt steppe west of the Volga grows the 'Boranez', a fruit shaped like a lamb with feet, head and tail, covered in white down. Struys says the Tartars and Russians prize it and keep it in their houses, where he saw several, and that he had also seen one in Swammerdam's cabinet in Amsterdam. People in Astrakhan told him it grows on a stalk and dies when the grass around it is gone. This is the famous barometz legend, in real life probably a fern rhizome shaped to look like a lamb.

where the Boranez or Bornitsch grows, of which we have already spoken. This marvellous fruit has the shape of a lamb, with the feet, head and tail distinctly formed … The Tartars and the Muscovites think highly of it, and most keep it carefully in their houses, where I have seen several.

Working translation

Original wording

où croît le Boranez ou Bornitsch dont nous avons déjà parlé. Ce merveilleux fruit a la figure d'un agneau, avec les piés, la tête & la queue distinctement formés … Les Tartares & les Moscovites en font grand état, & la plupart le gardent avec soin dans leurs maisons où j'en ai vu plusieurs.

Jan Struys (French translation by Glanius, Amsterdam 1681)

About Tartars and Russians of Astrakhan

Keep in mind

He saw objects sold as barometz; how it grows is hearsay, and the whole idea is a legend.

The newly married bride's horn with a bell

Editorial contextCheremis brides, the book says, wear a horn a yard long planted in the middle of the forehead, with a silk tassel and a little bell whose sound reminds the bride that she has just changed her state. The same paragraph then repeats a lurid slander about fathers and their daughters, likened to a tale told of Ceylon.

newly married women add an ornament all their own: a horn a yard long, which they plant in the middle of the forehead; at its end is a silk tassel, and in the middle of this tassel a little bell, whose sound serves to remind the bride that she has lately changed her state.

Working translation

Original wording

les nouvelles mariées ajoûtent un ornement qui leur est tout particulier: c'est une corne longue d'une aune qu'elles se plantent au milieu du front; au bout de laquelle il y a une houpe de soie, & au milieu de cette houpe une clochette, dont le bruit sert à faire souvenir la mariée qu'elle a depuis peu changé d'état.

Jan Struys (French translation by Glanius, Amsterdam 1681)

About Cheremis (Mari people), called Tartars

Keep in mind

Probably taken from Olearius. The horned bridal headdress is plausible; the slander that follows is not evidence of anything.

Strange talesMoscow1521 (retold 1669)

A Tatar khan's statue in Moscow before which the Tsar must bow

Editorial contextStruys retells the Tatar raid that took Moscow and made the Grand Prince pay tribute. The elder of two Tatar brothers, 'Mendliguerits', had a statue of himself set up in Moscow before which the Tsar would have to prostrate himself whenever he sent the tribute. The story, told from older books, is about the 1521 raid of the Crimean khan Mehmed Giray and his brother Sahib Giray of Kazan.

Of the two Tartar chiefs, who were brothers, the elder, named Mendliguerits, before leaving Moscow, had a statue of himself set up there, before which the Emperor would be obliged to prostrate himself

Working translation

Original wording

Des deux Chefs Tartares qui étoient frères, l'aîné nommé Mendliguerits, avant que de quitter Moskou, s'y fit dresser une statuë devant laquelle l'Empereur seroit obligé de se prosterner

Jan Struys (French translation by Glanius, Amsterdam 1681)

About Kazan and Crimean Tatars (the khan Mehmed Giray)

Keep in mind

Book history, not observation; the details, including the statue, come from older written accounts and cannot be checked here.

The fine print

How we know

firsthand The author saw the places or people described.

firsthand observation (Struys served as sailmaker on the Volga and Caspian 1668-1670, witnessed the Razin rising and was enslaved in Daghestan) but the text was ghost-written and padded from Olearius and others by the publisher Van Meurs

Research notes
  • Ghost-written; borrowings from Olearius, Nieuhof and Dapper documented (Kees Boterbloem, The Fiction and Reality of Jan Struys, 2008). Treat descriptive passages as compilation and only the personal itinerary as testimony.
  • French translation by Glanius (Amsterdam 1681) is the version most cited in French Tartary literature.

Why it matters

Eyewitness of Astrakhan and the Volga-Caspian frontier during the Razin revolt, with descriptions of Kalmyk and Tatar camps; a standard source for how "Tartarijen" was applied to the lower Volga in the 1670s, and a text whose reliability is itself contested.

Places named

Volga; Astrakhan; Caspian; Daghestan; Persia; Muscovy

Peoples named

Western Mongols (Oirat, Dzungar, Kalmyk)
Golden Horde and its Tatar successor khanates
Rus, Muscovy and the Russian Empire
Peoples of the Caucasus
Persian, Arab, Ottoman and other Islamic states

Kalmyks; Nogai and Astrakhan Tatars; Don Cossacks (Razin); Circassians; Daghestani; Persians

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