Written source · English

Lieutenant Wood's winter journey to the source of the Oxus

A British naval officer's eyewitness account of the Uzbek state of Kunduz, Badakhshan and the Kirghiz nomads of the Pamirs, 1836 to 1838.

Full title A Personal Narrative of a Journey to the Source of the River Oxus

John Wood

Read the 13 passagesOpen the original book

John Wood, a lieutenant of the East India Company's navy, served on Alexander Burnes's mission to Kabul and in 1837 to 1838 travelled north across the Hindu Kush to the court of the Uzbek ruler Murad Beg at Kunduz, through Badakhshan and Wakhan, and in midwinter up onto the Pamir plateau, where he reached Lake Sir-i-kol (Zorkul), which he took to be the source of the Oxus. He wrote the book from notes made on the spot. It gives close descriptions of Kunduz, Uzbek customs, the slave trade, and the felt tents and way of life of the Kirghiz. This corpus copy is the 1841 first edition (London, John Murray).

How they knew
Eyewitness
Who “Tartar” means here
Wood uses 'Tartar' for the Turkic and Mongol peoples of Turkistan in general: the Uzbeks of Kunduz, the Kirghiz, the Hazaras (whom he calls 'quite a Tartar race' by their looks), and the old conquerors Genghis Khan, Timur and Shaybani Khan. He notes that 'Tartary' had become a general word for ancient Scythia, and that the Uzbeks themselves did not use it.
Why read it
One of the best early descriptions of a Kirghiz felt tent, inside and out, plus a frank picture of an Uzbek capital that was mostly mud huts and tents, and a thoughtful note on where the word 'Tartar' came from.
Watch out
Wood often judges faces and 'races' by the standards of his day and repeats hostile gossip about the Kirghiz from their neighbours, though he usually says when he is doing so. The book was later revised by his son (1872); this is the original 1841 text.

What it says: 13 passages

Kunduz: a capital of mud huts and tents

Editorial contextThe capital of the powerful Uzbek ruler Murad Beg was, Wood says, one of the most wretched towns in his lands: a few hundred mud hovels mixed with straw sheds and Uzbek tents, with fields running into the town and a fortress that was just a walled mound. On the next page he describes the ruler's citadel as an irregular building of kiln-dried brick with a moat.

Kunduz, though the capital of Murad Beg, is one of the most wretched in his dominions. Five or six hundred mud hovels contain its fixed population, while dotted amongst these, and scattered at random over the suburbs, are straw-built sheds intermixed with the Uzbek tent or Kirgah. … Nothing, in short, can be imagined less resembling a metropolis.

John Wood

About Uzbeks of Murad Beg's state

Keep in mind

Wood openly links the town's poverty to his low opinion of Uzbek character; the physical description is what he saw.

Inside a Kirghiz felt tent on the Pamirs

Editorial contextWood and his party were invited into one of the best tents of a Kirghiz camp of 100 families. He describes its coarse dun felts held by broad white bands, the ice-bag by the door that served as the family's water supply, a Russian iron cauldron on a tripod over the fire, and the measurements of the tent.

Close to the door lay a bag filled with ice … the water of the family. On drawing aside the felt which screened the entrance, the air of tidiness and comfort that met our eyes was a most agreeable surprise. … The Kirgah had a diameter of fourteen feet, a height of eight, and was well lighted by a circular hole above the fire-place.

John Wood

About Kirghiz nomads

A house that three yaks can carry

Editorial contextWood continues his tour of the tent: a willow frame lined with reed mats knitted over with coloured wool, embroidered bands hung with saddles and sewing things, a curtained corner for the women, and fifty lambs tethered on a line inside. The whole home, he adds, packs onto three yaks.

The opposite segment was allotted to the young lambs of the flock. A string crossed the tent to which fifty nooses, twenty-five of a side, were attached, to each of which a lamb was fastened. … Three yaks are able to carry the tent and all its contents. One takes the oostakhan, literally the bones or frame-work, another the felts, and a third its furniture

John Wood

About Kirghiz nomads

Roadside buildings of the Mughal emperors

Editorial contextOn the road west from Kunduz, Wood found a domed water cistern and a guard tower that he credits to the 'Mongol' emperors, meaning the Mughal dynasty of India founded by Babur. He admired them as public works for travellers, and notes that the emperors had kept post-houses all the way to Balkh.

At the bottom of their western slope stands a water-cistern, a dome-covered building, and a guard-tower … remnants of Mongol munificence, evincing, by their usefulness rather than their beauty, the philanthropic spirit of the monarch who erected them. … for during the palmy days of Baber's line the emperors of Hindustan had post-houses

John Wood

About Mughal emperors of India (Babur's line), called 'Mongol' by Wood

Keep in mind

The attribution to the Mughals is Wood's own judgment.

Show 9 more passages

Kimiz: mare's milk that makes you drunk

Editorial contextWood explains how the Kirghiz and Uzbeks make kimiz (kumiss) from mare's milk, churned overnight and ready by sunrise. A spoonful, he was told, makes a man drunk, but their spoons are huge. He also passes on, while flagging it as hostile gossip, a claim that kimiz season brought drunken excess.

The Kirghiz, as well as the Uzbeks, keep brood mares, according to their means, and the acidulated milk of these animals yields them in spring the intoxicating liquor called kimiz. … A spoonful will produce inebriety, but their kashuk or spoon is much more capacious than the largest upon our tables.

John Wood

About Kirghiz and Uzbeks

Why the Kirghiz prefer daughters

Editorial contextAmong the Kirghiz, Wood learned, a daughter was more welcome than a son: herding needs few men, and a girl brought a large bride price. He also records that a widow passed to her husband's brother, and that a stranger who married her started a blood feud.

With the Kirghiz, a daughter is more desired than a son. Their flocks and herds, though large, do not require many men to manage them … But for a daughter a large sum is obtained … often as much as £40, if she be not above fifteen years of age.

John Wood

About Kirghiz nomads

Shamans turned Muslims

Editorial contextWood reports that the Kirghiz had converted from shamanism to Islam in the early 1600s, and that his Uzbek companion claimed the old beliefs lingered. Their chiefs, called Bai, had patriarchal rather than despotic authority.

They were converted from the Shamanian superstition to Mohamedanism early in the seventeenth century. The former belief, if I may credit Abdal Ghani, is not yet thoroughly eradicated ; though in our intercourse with the people, they seemed like all proselytes to erring creeds, to be filled with the most abject reverence for their new doctrines.

John Wood

About Kirghiz nomads

Keep in mind

The date of conversion is Wood's statement without a source; the survival of shamanism is his guide's claim.

Sell your wife, never your dog

Editorial contextWood notes a twist in Uzbek manners: asking a man to sell his wife was no offence, but asking to buy his dog was an insult, and 'dog-seller' was about the worst name one Uzbek could call another. He goes on to praise Uzbek women as fine housekeepers.

To ask an Uzbek to sell his wife would be no affront, but to ask him to sell his dog would be an unpardonable insult, "Suggee ferosh," or dog-seller, being about the most offensive epithet that one Uzbek can apply to another.

John Wood

About Uzbeks of Kunduz

Priests who dealt in slaves

Editorial contextWood says the Sunni Uzbeks of Kunduz treated persecution of Shia Muslims as proof of faith, and that their religious leaders were the biggest slave dealers, buying Shia captives and justifying it as good for the soul. Elsewhere he describes chained slave tributes on the road to Kunduz.

These mullahs, or priests, are the most notorious slave dealers in the land, and encourage the odious traffic among their disciples, by readily purchasing of them whatever victims of the Shiah creed they may entrap. The good of the soul is assigned as ample extenuation

John Wood

About Uzbeks of Kunduz and their mullahs

Keep in mind

Wood writes as a hostile Protestant observer; the slave trade itself is confirmed by many sources.

Where the word 'Tartary' came from

Editorial contextWood suggests the peoples of Central Asia descend from the ancient Huns and that most of their names came from a person: Tartar, Nogai, Uzbek, Moghul. 'Tartar', he says, had been turned into 'Tartary', a catch-all word for what the Romans called Scythia, yet he never heard the Uzbeks of Kunduz use it, and he blames the habit for much confusion.

Most of their names have had a personal origin, such as Tartar, Noghai, Uzbek, and Moghul. The first, corrupted to Tartary, has now become a generic term for the Scythia of the Roman historians, though I do not remember to have heard it used by the Uzbeks of Kunduz. From this custom much ambiguity has resulted.

John Wood

About Peoples of Central Asia: Kalmyks, Kirghiz, Uzbeks, Turkmens

Keep in mind

The Hun ancestry and the 'personal origin' of the names are Wood's own theories from reading, not local testimony.

The three great 'Tartar invaders'

Editorial contextWood groups Genghis Khan, Tamerlane (Timur) and the Uzbek conqueror Shaybani Khan together as 'Tartar invaders', and says none of them seems to have reached the high valleys of Badakhshan. It shows how loosely 'Tartar' was used for Mongol and Turkic conquerors alike.

None of the three great Tartar invaders, Jangez Khan, Tamerlane, or Shebani Khan, seem to have penetrated so high up the valley of the Oxus, though some of the followers of Baber, when expelled from the rich plains of Soghdiana by the Uzbeks, sought shelter here

John Wood

About Genghis Khan, Timur and Shaybani Khan

Kirghiz and Uzbeks: cousins by blood

Editorial contextThe Kirghiz horde Wood visited had come down to winter in Wakhan at the invitation of the Uzbeks of Kunduz, whom they claimed as blood relatives. Wood agrees they are one stock, and puts their differences in build down to climate.

They had been solicited to do so by the Uzbeks of Kunduz, with whom the Kirghiz profess to be connected by blood. The two people are evidently of the same stock, though the effects of location, or in other words, the difference between a temperate and a rigorous climate is observable in the well proportioned frame of the Uzbek and in the stunted growth of the Kirghiz.

John Wood

About Kirghiz and Uzbeks

Keep in mind

The climate explanation is Wood's own theory.

The Kazakh chief who ordered prayers in a jar

Editorial contextThe Kirghiz told Wood joke stories about their Kazakh neighbours as simple folk. In one, a Kazakh chief sent to Kokand to buy Muslim prayers for his horde and was given a sealed jar of bees, to be opened by the fire in a closed tent with all the elders undressed. Wood repeats it as a comic tale, not as fact.

A jar carefully covered, containing a swarm of bees, was delivered to the dull Kazak, with instructions to his chief not to open it till all the head men of the horde were assembled. … The chief himself, literally stung to madness, swore that never again should a Mussulman's prayer issue from a Kazak kirgah.

Kirghiz storytellers, as retold by John Wood

About Kazakhs, as described by Kirghiz storytellers

Keep in mind

A folk joke told by one people about another.

The fine print

How we know

firsthand The author saw the places or people described.

Surveying traveler

Research notes
  • Do not substitute later revised editions without recording their changes.

Why it matters

Routes, hydrology, highland settlement and peoples.

Places named

Afghanistan; Badakhshan; Pamirs

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