Written source · English

Adolph Erman's scientific travels across Siberia

A young German physicist's journey from Kazan to Kamchatka, full of Tatar towns, mosques, graves and history, 1828 to 1829.

Full title Travels in Siberia

Adolph Erman

Read the 17 passagesOpen the original book

Adolph Erman (1806-1877), a Berlin physicist, crossed Russia and Siberia in 1828 to 1830 to measure the earth's magnetism, travelling with the Norwegian Hansteen's expedition and then on his own to Yakutsk, Okhotsk and Kamchatka. A trained scholar, he mixed careful eyewitness notes with history (he used Surovzov's 1778 study of the Russian chronicles for the siege of Kazan) and word origins. The German account appeared from 1833; this corpus copy is W. D. Cooley's two-volume English translation (London, 1848), which covers the journey as far as Yakutsk and the Lena. Tatars appear on almost every page from Kazan to Tobolsk.

How they knew
Part eyewitness
Who “Tartar” means here
Mainly the Muslim, Turkic-speaking Kazan Tatars and Siberian Tatars of Tobolsk, Tyumen and Tomsk, plus 'Tatar' as a family name for Turkic peoples such as the Bashkirs and Yakuts. Erman himself protests that Western scholars misuse 'Tatar' for peoples unconnected with Kazan, and he separates the Mongols of Chinggis Khan from the Tatars.
Why read it
The richest eyewitness picture in this batch of Tatar towns as they really looked around 1828: log houses, mosques, wooden jetties for ablutions, graves boxed in logs, the Kazan Kremlin and a vivid retelling of its fall in 1552.
Watch out
Erman is a learned and generally careful observer, but his history of Kazan comes from Russian chronicles via Surovzov, and some of his word derivations are guesses. The English is a translation and abridgment by Cooley.

What it says: 17 passages

The last stand at Kazan, 12 October 1552

Editorial contextFollowing the chronicles, Erman describes Ivan IV's mines blowing up two towers of the kremlin, a last charge by the Muslim clergy in front of a mosque, and the khan Yediger making his final stand. The defenders handed Yediger over and died fighting. The chronicle also says Yediger set a thousand beautifully dressed young women in the Russians' path to tempt them, without success.

They surrendered Yediger into the hands of the Russians, exclaiming, "Take our ruler, and treat him as befits his rank; but we die with arms in our hands." It happened as they said; not one of the warriors survived the fall of Kasan, and the independence of the nation terminated on the 12th of October, 1552.

Adolph Erman (translated by W. D. Cooley, 1848), following the Russian chronicles

About Kazan Tatars and the army of Ivan IV

Keep in mind

Russian chronicle tradition, told from the victors' side; the thousand women and the defenders' words are literary touches that cannot be checked.

CitiesTyumen1828 (history from 1571)

Tyumen, the 'city of Chinggis'

Editorial contextErman reports that the Tatars still called Tyumen 'Chingistora', the city of Chinggis, from the time followers of the Mongol khan settled on the Tura. Khan Kuchum later moved his capital to Isker, near today's Tobolsk, which Yermak attacked. The first Russian town in Asia, he says, was founded on the site of Chingistora in 1586.

This city is, to this day, called by the Tatars Chingistora, the city of Chingis, the name it was known by when some followers of the Mongolian Khan, Chingis, fixed their residence on the Tura. In 1571, Yermak, with 500 of his followers, marched against the Tatar city of Isker, eastward of this place, near where Tobolsk now stands

Adolph Erman (translated by W. D. Cooley, 1848)

About Siberian Tatars (Khanate of Sibir)

Keep in mind

Yermak's campaign is usually dated 1581 to 1582, not 1571. Chingi-Tura was the old Tatar town on the site of Tyumen.

Tomsk's Tatar suburb of slender minarets

Editorial contextAt Tomsk Erman found the Tatar and Bukharan quarter south of the main streets, its low but regular wooden houses broken by 'the slender towers of several mosques'. The richer Russian town stood on the hill above the river.

The suburb inhabited by the Tatarian and Bukharian part of the population lies upon the south of the main line of streets, displaying from between its low but regular wooden houses, the slender towers of several mosques.

Adolph Erman (translated by W. D. Cooley, 1848)

About Siberian Tatars and Bukharans

A Kremlin wall 'built by the Tatars'

Editorial contextErman describes Kazan's fort, or kremlin, on a steep tongue of land between the Kazanka and the Bulak, 'still surrounded by the stone wall built by the Tatars'. On the next page he adds that inside it stood 'ruins of Tatar edifices, very solidly constructed of brick', beside Russian barracks, prisons and the cathedral.

Close to the steepest part of the bank lies the fort, or kreml, which is still surrounded by the stone wall built by the Tatars.

Adolph Erman (translated by W. D. Cooley, 1848)

About Kazan Tatars (the former Khanate of Kazan)

Keep in mind

Modern historians date Kazan's white-stone kremlin walls to after the Russian conquest of 1552, built by masons from Pskov; Erman's own account of the siege (T0013 n171) describes the Tatar walls as oak timber filled with stones and clay. The brick Tatar ruins he saw are more securely Tatar work.

Show 13 more passages
BuildingsKazan1552 (from chronicles)

Oak walls twenty-eight feet thick

Editorial contextUsing Professor Surovzov's 1778 study of the chronicles and of old gate sites, Erman reconstructs the Tatar city before 1552. It was nearly as big as the Kazan of his own day. Its walls were two parallel fences of very thick oak timbers, twenty-five feet apart, with the space between filled with stones and clay, and it had thirteen gates with towers.

The walls round the town measured in thickness twenty-eight feet, and were formed of two parallel wooden fences twenty-five feet asunder, and having the space between them filled up with stones and clay. The wooden fences, as well as the towers over the gates, were formed of oak timbers of extraordinary thickness. The gates, with their towers, were thirteen in number

Adolph Erman (translated by W. D. Cooley, 1848), after G. S. Surovzov (1778)

About Kazan Tatars (the Khanate of Kazan)

Keep in mind

Reconstructed from chronicles and excavations of gate sites, not seen by Erman.

Kurgan graves of 'a race now extinct'

Editorial contextAt Krasnoyarsk Erman studied a collection of bronze objects dug from the kurgans (burial mounds) of the Minusinsk district, including round mirrors decorated with animals. The local Tatars told him the mounds belonged to 'a race now extinct, and totally different from theirs'. Erman noted that similar mirrors were still used in Buryat Buddhist rites, and wondered whether the builders were really so different from living Siberians.

The most important consideration, however, is, that these mirrors are found in graves which, as the present Tatar inhabitants of the circle maintain, belong to a race now extinct, and totally different from theirs.

Adolph Erman (translated by W. D. Cooley, 1848)

About Tatars of the Minusinsk basin (Khakas); unknown ancient builders

Keep in mind

Erman saw the objects in a private collection, not the graves; the 'extinct race' is local Tatar belief. Modern archaeology links most Minusinsk bronzes to Bronze and Iron Age cultures (such as Tagar) long before the Turkic-speaking Khakas.

Log houses with curtained windows

Editorial contextThe houses of Kazan's Tatar town were small plain log cabins like Russian village houses, but inside they always had window curtains, behind which the women hid when anyone passed. On the next page Erman notes the many wooden jetties the Tatars built over Lake Kaban for their ritual washing before prayer.

The houses of the Tatar town are small and unadorned, like those of Russian villages, constructed of rough logs, without exterior planking. But in their internal arrangements they differ from the Russian cabins; they have, for example, always window curtains, behind which the women are careful to conceal themselves when any one passes by.

Adolph Erman (translated by W. D. Cooley, 1848)

About Kazan Tatars

Graves boxed in logs, like little houses

Editorial contextAt the post village of Metyeshka, east of Kazan, Erman saw a Tatar burial ground. Each grave was covered by a man-length box about four feet high, filled with earth and built exactly like the dwelling houses, of rough-hewn logs laid one on another. The graves lay side by side, their long sides running east to west.

about the length of a man, and filled with earth. It is formed in the same manner as the dwelling houses, with rough-hewn posts laid one upon the other. The graves were in general parallel to one another, the longer sides lying nearly east and west.

Adolph Erman (translated by W. D. Cooley, 1848)

About Kazan Tatars

Keep in mind

The sentence begins on the previous page (n177): 'On every grave there is a rectangular chest, raised about four feet above the ground'.

Yurts of 'the former rulers of the country'

Editorial contextNear Tobolsk, on the steep bank of the Irtysh, Erman entered sooty Tatar yurts at Philatefsk. They were shaped like Ostyak (Khanty) huts but cleaner, with a clay hearth (chubal), a built-in cauldron, and woven cloth, Bukharan carpets or felt in the sleeping recesses. The families sat cross-legged round brick tea, with horse-flesh cooking. He calls them 'descendants of the former rulers of the country'.

The Ostyak mode of living cannot be confounded with that of these people, yet the yurts of both are shaped alike; but those of the Tatars have always the advantage in cleanliness, and, besides the chubal of beaten clay, there is also the well-set boiler: in the recesses, too, instead of skins there lies usually some woven fabric

Adolph Erman (translated by W. D. Cooley, 1848)

About Siberian Tatars

Keep in mind

Here 'yurt' means a small fixed winter hut, not a felt tent.

Evening prayer at the Kaban Lake mosque

Editorial contextErman was allowed into the great mosque of the Tatar quarter by Lake Kaban for evening prayer. In the entrance hall stood old gravestones dug up nearby, before which worshippers prayed in silence. Inside the plain round hall, men in white sat 'as motionless as statues' while the imam chanted the Koran; then the visitors were politely asked to leave. Erman was deeply moved by the simplicity and piety.

We entered first into a wide quadrangular hall: along the walls are placed rows of tall grave-stones, dug up in the vicinity, and set up here to perpetuate the memory of some saintly characters. The Tatars, as they came in, stood for a little time in silent prayer before these stones.

Adolph Erman (translated by W. D. Cooley, 1848)

About Kazan Tatars

Tatar villagers with carpets and cushions

Editorial contextIn the Tatar farming villages beyond Kazan, Erman found people neatly dressed, the men with shaved heads under tight caps and trimmed beards, in contrast to the wild hair of Russian peasants. Their houses always had good carpets and cushions, and the women, in loose white gowns, never helped with rough work like harnessing horses.

Men and women here are neatly clothed. The smooth-shorn pate of the former, covered with the tight-fitting cap, and the precise cut of their beards, form a striking contrast with the savage head of hair, completely in a state of nature, which is usually worn by the Russians. Their houses are never without some good carpets and cushions to cover the seats and beds.

Adolph Erman (translated by W. D. Cooley, 1848)

About Kazan Tatars

'Tatar' should mean Kazan

Editorial contextAt Torzhok, famous for embroidered Russia-leather boots, Erman notes that the Russians learned the craft from the Tatars and still call the boots 'Kasan boots'. For Russians, he says, Kazan was the land of the Tatars, and he complains that Western European scholars too often call peoples 'Tatars' who had nothing to do with Kazan.

The Russians learned this art from the Tatars, whom they soon surpassed, and the name "Kasan boots," now usually given to the boots and shoes made in Torjok, points to a Tatar origin; for among the Russians, Kasan was originally the land of the Tatars; and the learned men of Western Europe too often give the name of Tatars erroneously to tribes who had no connexion with Kasan.

Adolph Erman (translated by W. D. Cooley, 1848)

About Kazan Tatars

Chinggis's men were Mongols, not Tatars

Editorial contextWriting about Russian fortune-telling customs, Erman says the tribes of Chinggis Khan who overran Russia were really a branch of the Mongols from the Irkutsk region, who later joined with the 'Tatar hordes'. Over time, he says, Russian historians wrongly gave the Tatars the whole glory of the conquest.

In point of fact, we know that the tribes under Chingis Khan, who overran that country, were really a branch of the Mongol nation from the government of Irkutsk, who subsequently formed a union with the Tatar hordes; and to the latter the Russian historians, in process of time, incorrectly attributed the whole glory of the conquest.

Adolph Erman (translated by W. D. Cooley, 1848)

About Mongols and Tatars

Keep in mind

Erman's placing of the Mongol homeland 'from the government of Irkutsk' is his own view; the Mongol heartland lay farther south, in today's Mongolia.

Bashkirs, 'the shaven heads'

Editorial contextErman argues that the Bashkirs are the 'bald-headed' Argippaei described by Herodotus, and that Herodotus's travellers mistook their shaved heads for natural baldness. He rejects the usual explanation of the name Bashkir as 'bee-head' and offers his own: bash (head) plus a word for shaven, so 'shaven heads'.

Thus, we shall render the gentile name, Bashkir, as written by the Russians Bashkuirtsi, by its natural synonym, shaven heads

Adolph Erman (translated by W. D. Cooley, 1848)

About Bashkirs

Keep in mind

Learned speculation. The origin of the name Bashkir is still debated, and 'shaven heads' is not generally accepted.

Yakut words are 'pure Turkish'

Editorial contextIn Yakutsk Erman compared the Yakuts with the Tatars of western Siberia in looks and language. Their words for God, iron and other metals and fishing gear were 'all pure Turkish', and they named their milk spirits as the Turkish Tatars did. So he rejects the idea that the Yakuts owed their culture to Mongol neighbours.

It cannot by any means be maintained, that the Yakuts have received the better part of their civilisation, at some time or other, from Mongolian neighbours; their names for the Deity, for iron, and the other metals, (excepting the tin of the Buraets), for their fishing gear, &c. are all pure Turkish.

Adolph Erman (translated by W. D. Cooley, 1848)

About Yakuts (Sakha); Siberian and 'Turkish' Tatars

Strange talesKazan1552 (from chronicles)

Queen Suyumbike, the rain-making enchantress

Editorial contextDuring the siege, the Russian soldiers in the trenches suffered from constant heavy rain, and everyone blamed the magic of the Tatar queen Sumbyeka (Suyumbike), 'celebrated as an enchantress', and the city's sorcerers. Inside Kazan, people hid in cellars and caves dug in the courtyards, and the defenders shot at their own captured kinsmen tied to the Russian palisades rather than surrender.

The Russian warriors who were stationed in the trenches without tents, suffered much from the constant heavy rains; and this annoyance was universally ascribed to the arts of the Tatar queen Sumbyeka, who was celebrated as an enchantress, and to the subordinate kolduni, or sorcerers of the city.

Adolph Erman (translated by W. D. Cooley, 1848), following the Russian chronicles

About Kazan Tatars

Keep in mind

A belief of the besiegers recorded in the chronicles. Historically, Suyumbike had already been sent to Moscow before the final siege.

The vegetable lamb was really cotton

Editorial contextWatching Bukharan cotton being sold at the Nizhny Novgorod fair, Erman explains the old story of the Baranets, a plant that grew a living lamb, told near the Caspian and repeated by Herberstein in the 1500s. He was sure it came from an embellished description of the cotton plant, and he quotes Herberstein's Latin, including Herberstein's remark that nothing is impossible for the Creator.

It appears to me quite certain that the story of the zoophytic plant, called Baranez, or lamb-plant, (formed as a diminutive, from Baran, a sheep,) originated in some embellished account of the cotton plant. Herberstein relates it at full length and unchanged, just as he had heard it

Adolph Erman (translated by W. D. Cooley, 1848)

About Bukharan traders; Russian and European writers

Keep in mind

Erman's cotton theory is one explanation among several; others point to a fern (Cibotium barometz) whose woolly rhizome was sold as the 'Tartarian lamb'.

The fine print

How we know

firsthand The author saw the places or people described.

Scientific traveler

Research notes
  • English edition represents part of a larger German travel publication.

Why it matters

Transects, towns, everyday life and natural history.

Places named

Siberia; Mongolia frontier

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