Place · region

Orkhon valley

What the sources say here: 13 passages

Named Chinese builders of the memorial

Editorial contextRadloff's translation of the end of the Kul Tegin inscription lists the embassies at the funeral and then names the builders: 'to raise the buildings, make the sculptures and the inscribed stone came Tschankany and Tschang-Sangun', both from the Chinese emperor. Radloff's glossary adds that 'barq' here means the temple built by the grave, and that the old pair 'eb barq' meant 'houses (yurts) and other buildings'.

To raise the buildings, to make the sculptures and the inscribed stone, Chankany and Chang-Sangun came.

Working translation

Original wording

Die Gebäude aufzuführen, die Skulpturarbeiten und den Schriftstein herzustellen, sind Tschänkany und Tschäng-Sängün gekommen.

Kul Tegin inscription, 732, in Wilhelm Radloff's German translation (1895)

About Turks and Tang Chinese

Keep in mind

The names are Turkic renderings of Chinese titles or names; Radloff's page 236 explains that they came 'from the Chinese emperor'.

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Continue in this sourceThe Orkhon inscriptions: the Turks write their own history in stonec. 680 to 735 · 14 passages

From tents to palaces: the Uighur khans' capital

Editorial contextIn notes to the same volume the French sinologist Deveria writes that the Uighur khanate set up its main seat on the Orkhon in 745, but that the khans only later replaced the tents of their royal camp with palaces: the Tang history mentions a palace built for the Uighur ruler in 780 as something new, and in 784 a khan had an inscription carved on a stone stele 'before the gate of his capital'. The capital was burned by the Kirghiz in 841. It is a clear dated sequence from tent camp to built city.

The founding of the Uighur khanate and the setting of its khagans' main seat on the banks of the Orkhon go back to 745, but only later did the khagans replace the tents of their royal camp with palaces. Indeed it is only in 780 that the Tang history speaks, as something new among the Uighurs, of the building of a palace.

Working translation

Original wording

La fondation du Khanat ouïgour et l'établissement du siège principal de ses Khakans sur les bords de l'Orkhoun remonte à l'année 745, mais ce ne serait que plus tard que les Khakans auraient substitué des palais aux tentes de leur camp royal. Ce n'est en effet qu'en 780 que l'histoire des T'ang parle, comme d'une chose nouvelle chez les Ouïgours, de la construction d'un palais

Gabriel Deveria, notes on the Chinese inscriptions, in Inscriptions de l'Orkhon (Helsingfors 1892)

About Uighurs

Keep in mind

Deveria is summarising Tang annals.

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Continue in this sourceThe Orkhon inscriptions: the Turks write their own history in stonec. 680 to 735 · 14 passages
The nameMongolia (Orkhon valley)inscription of 732, about 6th-century events

The 'Thirty Tatars' mourn the first Turk khans

Editorial contextThe Kul Tegin stone opens with the Turks' own origin story and then says that when the first khans, Bumin and Istemi, died, peoples came 'weeping and lamenting' from the east: the Chinese, the Tibetans, the Kirghiz, the Three Qurıqan, the Thirty Tatars, the Kitay (Khitan) and the Tatabi. This is one of the oldest written uses of the name Tatar anywhere, carved in stone by the Turks themselves, and here the Tatars are one steppe people among many.

Weeping and lamenting there came from the front, from the side of the rising sun, the mighty peoples of the desert (that is, foreign peoples?): the Chinese, the Tibetans, the Apar and Apurim, the Kirghiz, the Three Qurıqan, the Thirty Tatars, the Kitay, the Tatabi … all these peoples came to lament and weep, so valiant had these khagans been.

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Original wording

Pleurant et se lamentant arrivèrent de l'avant, du côté du soleil levant, les puissants peuples du désert (c'est-à-dire étrangers?), les Chinois, les Thibétains, les Apar et Apourim, les Kirghiz, les Trois-Kourikans, les Trente-Tatars, les Kitaï, les Tatabi, … tous ces peuples vinrent se lamenter et pleurer: si vaillants avaient été ces kagans.

Bilge Qaghan (inscription composed by Yollugh Tegin), Kul Tegin inscription, 732, in Vilhelm Thomsen's French translation (1896)

About Otuz Tatar (the Thirty Tatars), a Mongolic people east of the Turks

Keep in mind

Thomsen marks several words as uncertain; the list of mourners is a royal boast carved some 180 years after the funeral it describes.

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Continue in this sourceThe Orkhon inscriptions: the Turks write their own history in stonec. 680 to 735 · 14 passages

The khan sent to China for sculptors

Editorial contextBilge Qaghan says he brought sculptors from the Chinese emperor, who sent his own palace craftsmen. Through them he had a separate building (a temple or hall) put up, had sculptures carved inside and outside, and had the 'eternal stone' cut and inscribed. The Turk ruler plainly credits Chinese craftsmen with the stonework and the temple beside his brother's grave; his cousin Yollugh Tegin wrote the text.

From the khagan of the Chinese I brought sculptors and had them carve. My invitation was not refused: they sent the khagan's inner (household) sculptors. I had them put up a separate building (the temple, the hall), carve sculptures inside and outside, and cut the stone.

Working translation

Original wording

De chez le kagan des Chinois j'ai fait venir des sculpteurs et je (leur) ai (fait) sculpter. On n'a pas rejeté mon invitation, mais on a envoyé les sculpteurs intérieurs (c.-à-d. attachés à la maison) du kagan. Je leur ai fait ériger à part l'édifice (le temple, la salle), et tailler à part les sculptures à l'intérieur et à l'extérieur, et je leur ai fait tailler la pierre.

Bilge Qaghan (inscription composed by Yollugh Tegin), Kul Tegin inscription, 732, in Vilhelm Thomsen's French translation (1896)

About Turks (Kok Turk) and Tang Chinese craftsmen

Keep in mind

Thomsen's translation of this passage has several question marks in the surrounding lines; the Chinese annals confirm that the emperor sent artists.

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Continue in this sourceThe Orkhon inscriptions: the Turks write their own history in stonec. 680 to 735 · 14 passages
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Chinese-style roof tiles in a marmot burrow

Editorial contextHeikel describes the mound beside the Kul Tegin monument. Marmots had dug into it, and from one of their holes he pulled a quantity of half-round roof tiles 'such as are still used in China to cover the roofs of houses', with more scattered on the hill. He concluded the mound was a fallen building, a temple put up when the monument was erected. It is a first-hand archaeological observation that fits the inscription's statement about Chinese builders.

From one of the holes made by these animals I pulled out a quantity of half-round tiles, such as are still generally used in China to cover the roofs of houses. There were several others like them scattered over the hill and round about.

Working translation

Original wording

Je retirai d'un des trous faits par ces animaux une quantité de tuiles demi-rondes, telles qu'on les emploie encore généralement en Chine pour couvrir les toits des maisons. Il y en avait plusieurs autres semblables éparpillées sur la colline et aux alentours.

Axel Heikel, Inscriptions de l'Orkhon (Helsingfors 1892), report of the Finnish expedition of 1890

About Turks (Kok Turk), with Chinese builders

A note on this quote

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Continue in this sourceThe Orkhon inscriptions: the Turks write their own history in stonec. 680 to 735 · 14 passages
CitiesKarakorum (Orkhon valley)13th century; located in the 1842 recension

Where was Karakorum? Between the Orkhon and the Tamir

Editorial contextIn the Khalkha section's list of ancient sites, the gazetteer copies the Yuan history's account of Hening (Karakorum) and then adds its own finding: according to the 'Map of the Northern Desert', the old capital stood east of the Khangai mountains, between the Orkhon and Tamir rivers. A few pages earlier the same section places the Erdene Zuu monastery on the upper Orkhon. Karakorum here is a known Mongol capital with a location, not a mystery.

According to the Map of the Northern Desert, north of Hening is the Xiluge (Selenge) river, and further north the Kokebuqa ferry; to the west are the Mi river and the Qara Qorum river; to the southwest is a hot spring; to the south the Wangji river. Note: the place lies east of the present Khangai mountains, between the Orkhon and the Tamir rivers.

Working translation

Original wording

朔漠圖和寕北有錫爾格河又北庫庫布哈渡口西有迷河哈刺和林河西南有温泉南有旺吉河按其地在今杭愛山東鄂爾坤塔米爾河之閒

Qing history office, Comprehensive Gazetteer of the Great Qing (Jiaqing recension, completed 1842; Sibu congkan text, Kanseki Repository transcription)

About Mongols (Yuan capital)

Keep in mind

Listed under 'ancient sites' in the Khalkha section; the ruins of Karakorum lie beside Erdene Zuu on the Orkhon.

Continue in this sourceThe Comprehensive Gazetteer of the Great Qing: Mongolia and the outer lands1744 · 4 passages

'No fixed dwelling': why the Turks refused a walled capital

Editorial contextHeikel retells the Chinese annals: Bilge Qaghan wanted to build a wall round his residence and temples to Buddha and Laozi, but his old adviser Tonyukuk warned him off. The Turks, he said, were not a hundredth of China's population and survived only because they follow grass and water, hunt, have no fixed homes and practise war; Chinese armies live in towns and are captured when beaten, and Buddhism makes men weak. Heikel concludes the khan's camp probably stayed unfortified.

'The Turk people do not amount to a hundredth part of the population of China, and if, despite their small numbers, they have been able to resist that empire, it is because the Turks, seeking only grass and water, have no interest but hunting and have no fixed dwelling, but practise only the trade of war.'

Working translation

Original wording

»Le peuple doulgase (c. a. d. les Toukioux) n'atteint pas en nombre la centième partie de la population de la Chine, et si, malgré son infériorité numérique, il a pu résister à cet empire, la raison en est que les Doulgases, ne recherchant que de l'herbe et de l'eau, n'ont d'autre intérêt que la chasse, et n'ont pas de demeure fixe, mais ne s'exercent qu'au métier de la guerre.

Chinese annals (Tang history) in Axel Heikel's French retelling, Inscriptions de l'Orkhon (1892)

About Tujue (Kok Turks), called Doulgases

Keep in mind

A speech recorded by Chinese historians, retold second-hand from Father Hyacinth's Russian translations.

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Continue in this sourceThe Orkhon inscriptions: the Turks write their own history in stonec. 680 to 735 · 14 passages

The Uighurs born from a glowing hill

Editorial contextJuvaini retells the Uighurs' own origin story. Between two rivers near Karakorum grew two trees; a light from heaven came down on a hill between them, the hill grew day by day, and the Uighurs heard sweet music coming from it. At last, like a woman giving birth, it opened a door, and inside were five chambers. At the head of the Uighur chapter he says he writes down their beliefs to arouse wonder, not because he accepts them.

until, as happens to women with child when the time of delivery comes, a door opened, and inside there were five chambers.

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Original wording

تا چنانك حاملات‌را وقت وضع حمل … باشد دری گشاده شد اندرون آن پنج خانه بود

Ata-Malik Juvaini, retelling Uighur tradition (Persian text, ed. Mirza Muhammad Qazvini, 1912)

About Uighurs (as told in their own books)

Keep in mind

A legend from Uighur books, which Juvaini says he writes down 'for wonder, not for belief'. The OCR is heavily garbled: 'five' restores a broken word, and one unclear word is marked with an ellipsis.

The scan is too rough to double-check this quote by machine. Compare it with the page.

Continue in this sourceJuvaini's History of the World-Conqueror13th century · 8 passages

Karakorum and the older Uighur city: two sites on the Orkhon

Editorial contextHeikel quotes the Persian historian Juvaini: Ogedei founded Karakorum, and on the Orkhon were found the ruins of a city and palace that had belonged to the Uighurs, with inscribed stones before the palace gate. Heikel argues that Karakorum stood where the Erdene Zuu monastery was built about 1590, and was not the same as the older Uighur ruins of Khara Balgasun. Real cities rose and fell here, and their builders are named.

'Before the entrance of this palace lie stones covered with engraved characters, which we have seen. In the reign of the Qaan (Khan) Ogedei these stones were lifted and a pit was found, in which there was a great stone slab bearing an inscription.'

Working translation

Original wording

»Devant l'entrée de ce palais gisent des pierres couvertes de caractères gravés que nous avons vus. Sous le règne du Caan (Khan) Ogotaï on leva ces pierres, et l'on découvrit une fosse, dans laquelle il y avait une grande table de pierre, chargée d'une inscription».

Juvaini, History of the World Conqueror (13th century), quoted by Axel Heikel (1892) after d'Ohsson

About Uighurs and Mongols

Keep in mind

Juvaini is quoted through d'Ohsson's French; Heikel's placing of Karakorum at Erdene Zuu has since been confirmed by excavation.

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Continue in this sourceThe Orkhon inscriptions: the Turks write their own history in stonec. 680 to 735 · 14 passages

The Karakorum valley: Khitan ruins and irrigated fields

Editorial contextNear a large clear lake (Ugii Nuur) Zhang notes the branch road to Helin, the Chinese name for Karakorum, about a hundred li away, and a small old walled town built by the Khitans. The Orkhon plain itself was farmed: people irrigated their fields (and, the text adds, kept some vegetable gardens), though in early autumn the crops were already killed by three frosts.

From the south of the lake a branch road leads west into the city of Helin (Karakorum), about a hundred li away. Due west of the lake there is a small old walled town, also built by the Khitans... In the middle is the Helin plain. Most of the inhabitants farm, bringing water to all their fields... It was then late in the first month of autumn and the hemp and wheat had all withered; when I asked the farmers, they said there had already been three frosts.

Working translation

Original wording

自泊之南而西分道入和林城相去約百余里泊之正西有小故城亦契丹所築也…中即和林川也居人多事耕稼悉引水灌之…時孟秋下旬麻麥皆槁問之田者云巳三霜矣

Zhang Dehui, Record of a Journey (Qiujian ji juan 100 = Yutang jiahua juan 8; Sibu congkan text, Kanseki Repository transcription)

About Mongols; farmers of the Orkhon valley

Keep in mind

Bretschneider (1888) thought Zhang passed near Karakorum without entering it.

Continue in this sourceFine Talk from the Jade Hall: two Chinese journeys through the Mongol world1220 to 1259 · 14 passages

A ruined Khitan city with lettered tiles

Editorial contextAfter crossing a river into a grassy plain ringed by mountains, the travellers found the ruins of an old city on both sides, where the line of the streets could still be traced, and were told it had been built (the sentence runs over from p.53) by the Khitan. They picked up a tile inscribed in Khitan script, and the diarist guessed the town was founded by Khitan warriors who had moved north rather than submit to the Jin. In the Mongol heartland, then, the ruin was credited to an earlier, known people, not to the Mongols. Bretschneider quotes Palladius that Khitan forts and towns lay in ruins on the Tuul, the Kerulun and in Manchuria.

by the K'i-tan. We found, indeed, on the soil a tile with letters of the K'i-tan. This was probably a city founded by those K'i-tan warriors who emigrated, unwilling to submit to the new dynasty.

Li Zhichang, disciple of Changchun, in the Si yu ki (translated by E. Bretschneider, 1888)

About Khitan (Liao dynasty) builders, in Mongol-ruled land

Keep in mind

The exact site is disputed (Tuul, Orkhon or Kharukha river). The 'new dynasty' is the Jin, who overthrew the Liao in 1125.

OCR normalized; the sentence begins on the previous page (n70): 'There is a tradition that this city was built'.

Continue in this sourceThe Daoist master Changchun's journey to Chinggis Khan1220 to 1223 · 18 passages

The 'High Carts' people and their felt tents on wheels

Editorial contextRetelling Chinese histories, Klaproth explains that one nomadic branch of the Uighurs was called Kao-tche, 'High Carts', probably because the wheels of the carts carrying their felt tents were taller than those of other Turkic tribes. Their main camp lay between the Tula, Orkhon and Selenga rivers.

In the 3rd century of our era it bore the name Kao-tche, or High Carts, probably because the wheels of the carts that carried its felt tents were higher than those of the other Turkic tribes.

Working translation

Original wording

Elle porta, dans le IIIe siècle de notre ère, le nom de Kao tchhe ou de Chariots élevés, vraisemblablement parceque les roues des chariots, qui portaient ses tentes de feutre, étaient plus hautes que celles des autres peuplades turques.

Julius Klaproth, summarising Chinese dynastic histories

About Gaoche (Kao-tche), a Turkic people Klaproth counts as a branch of the Uighurs

Continue in this sourceKlaproth's historical tables of Asia1805 to 1808 · 4 passages

Headless statues and skull cups

Editorial contextHeikel found that all the carved stone figures at the first two monuments had lost their heads. He explains this by old Mongolian customs: enemies' heads were carried off as trophies, chiefs' skulls were made into drinking cups (the Irkutsk museum held one), and stones set round a grave stood for enemies killed. So attackers would naturally knock the heads off figures that stood for Turks. His explanation is a guess drawn from old accounts, not something he saw happen.

These, like all the other statues found near the first and second monuments, have no heads, which is not surprising to those who know the ancient customs of the peoples of Mongolia, among whom it was the practice to carry enemies' heads long distances as trophies. The skulls of chiefs killed in war were even made into cups.

Working translation

Original wording

Celles-là comme toutes les autres statues trouvées auprès de ce 1er monument et du 2e, n'ont pas de tête, ce qui n'a rien d'étonnant pour ceux qui connaissent les anciennes moeurs des peuples de la Mongolie, chez lesquels on avait coutume d'emporter à de longues distances les têtes des ennemis en guise de trophées. On façonnait même en coupes les crânes des chefs tués à la guerre.

Axel Heikel, Inscriptions de l'Orkhon (Helsingfors 1892)

About Turks and later steppe peoples

Keep in mind

The missing heads are observed; the explanation is Heikel's own guess from written sources.

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Continue in this sourceThe Orkhon inscriptions: the Turks write their own history in stonec. 680 to 735 · 14 passages

1 source and maps name this place

  1. c. 720–735approximate
    The Old Turkic Orkhon inscriptions
    WSecond Turk qaghanate courtofficial or contemporary recordW221