Written source · German

Gmelin's journey through Siberia, volume 1

A German naturalist's eyewitness diary of Kazan, Tobolsk and the Tatar, Kalmyk and Teleut lands of western Siberia, 1733 to 1735.

Full title Reise durch Sibirien

Johann Georg Gmelin

Read the 15 passagesOpen the original book

Johann Georg Gmelin (1709-1755), a chemist and botanist from Tübingen working for the St Petersburg Academy, travelled with the historian G. F. Müller on the Second Kamchatka Expedition from 1733 to 1743. This first volume of his 'Reise durch Sibirien' (Göttingen, 1751) is a dated day-by-day diary from Petersburg through Kazan to Tobolsk, up the Irtysh past the steppe forts to Semipalatinsk and Ust-Kamenogorsk, then to Kuznetsk and Tomsk and on toward the Yenisei. He records towns, villages, houses, weddings, shamans, graves and ruins alongside plants and minerals. The corpus copy is the German original, volume 1; no English translation was checked.

How they knew
Eyewitness
Who “Tartar” means here
Mostly the Muslim Tatars of Kazan and of Tobolsk and the Irtysh (with Bukharan settlers), and a range of Turkic-speaking, largely non-Muslim peoples of the Kuznetsk and Altai region he also calls Tatars (Teleuts, Abinsk and Kondoma Tatars). The Kalmyks (Oirats) are a separate people to him. His preface mocks the old habit of calling all of northern Asia 'Tartary'.
Why read it
A careful, often wry scientist who checks older claims on the spot: timber and clay villages, two-fireplace Tatar houses, reed yurts, an ironworks in a yurt, ruined Kalmyk temples and plundered steppe graves, all dated and placed.
Watch out
German only (quotes here are in the original with working translations). Some sites he knew only from his men's reports. He is openly scornful of shamans and 'idol-worship'. Fraktur OCR confuses s and f and garbles umlauts.

What it says: 15 passages

CitiesKazanDecember 1733

Kazan's kremlin: Tatars not only may enter, they must

Editorial contextGmelin describes Kazan's stone fortress with its cathedral, a monastery founded by Ivan IV, and a stone arsenal. Anyone could go in, Tatars included; indeed they often had to, because the government chancery was inside. Nobody he asked had heard that Tatars were ever barred, as Olearius had written a century before. The next page adds that Tatars had their own shops in the stone merchants' hall, selling Persian silks.

Everyone is allowed to go into the fortress, the Tatars too. Indeed they sometimes have to go in against their will, because the government chancery is inside, before which they often have to appear. Nor did anyone we asked know that entry into the fortress had ever been forbidden to the Tatars, as Olearius claims for his time.

Working translation

Original wording

Es ist jedermann erlaubet, in die Festung zu gehen, auch den Tataren. Ja sie müssen zuweilen wider ihren Willen hinein, weil die Regierungskanzeley darin ist, vor welcher sie sich öfters zu stellen haben. Es wuste auch niemand, den wir darüber befragten, daß der Eingang in die Festung den Tataren jemahls verboten gewesen wäre, wie Olearius zu seiner Zeit vorgiebt.

Johann Georg Gmelin (German original, Göttingen, 1751)

About Kazan Tatars under Russian rule

Keep in mind

A direct check on Olearius (W048, n154): the rule may have lapsed in the hundred years between them, or Olearius may have been misinformed.

Old Sibir: a rampart and a name

Editorial contextGmelin and Müller rode 18 versts up the Irtysh from Tobolsk to where, by common report, the old town of Sibir had stood, seat of Siberia's former rulers. Apart from traces of a rampart they saw nothing at all. Gmelin suggests that both the little Sibirka stream and the whole province of Siberia took their names from this vanished town.

where, according to common report, the old town of Sibir stood, which is said to have been the seat of the former rulers of Siberia... Apart from some traces of a rampart that had been thrown up there, we could see nothing.

Working translation

Original wording

wo der gemeinen Sage nach die alte Stadt Sibir gestanden hat, welche der Sitz der ehemahligen Sibirischen Beherrscher gewesen seyn soll. … Außer einigen Spuren von einem Walle, der daselbst aufgeworfen war, konnten wir nichts sehen.

Johann Georg Gmelin (German original, Göttingen, 1751)

About Former rulers of Siberia (the Siberian Tatar khanate)

Two villages for every village: summer and winter

Editorial contextSailing up the Irtysh, Gmelin passed Uttus aul, which was really three villages: two for summer and one for winter. This, he says, was the general custom of the local Tatars, who moved into the winter village when the cold set in. He adds that 'aul' is the Tatar word for village, and that Russians call every Tatar village 'yurty', a Tatar word that simply means 'house'.

It is a general custom among the Tatars here that they have one village for the summer and another for the winter. As soon as the cold sets in they move into their winter village, and as soon as the warm weather comes, into the summer village.

Working translation

Original wording

Dieses ist unter den hiesigen Tataren eine allgemeine Gewohnheit, daß sie ein anderes Dorf für den Sommer, ein anderes für den Winter haben. Sobald die Kälte einfällt, ziehen sie in ihr Winterdorf, und sobald die Wärme kommt, in das Sommerdorf.

Johann Georg Gmelin (German original, Göttingen, 1751)

About Siberian Tatars of the Irtysh

Clean Tatar rooms with two fireplaces and calf-skin windows

Editorial contextRiding east from Kazan through a string of Tatar villages, Gmelin lodged in Tatar houses. They had no 'black rooms' (smoky rooms without a chimney): every room had two fireplaces side by side, one for heat and one for cooking, and broad low benches laid with a carpet and a cushion for guests. The sentence that follows says that instead of window glass they stretched the outer skin of a calf's stomach over the frames.

The Tatars have no 'black rooms' [rooms without a chimney]; instead, in every room there are two fireplaces side by side, one used for heating and the other for cooking. Their rooms look very clean. There are very broad, low benches in them

Working translation

Original wording

Die Tatarn haben keine Schwarz-Stuben, sondern in einer jeden Stube sind 2. Camine neben einander, in deren einem eingeheizt, und in dem andern Essen gekocht wird. Ihre Stuben sehen sehr reinlich aus. Es sind sehr breite niedrige Bänke darin

Johann Georg Gmelin (German original, Göttingen, 1751)

About Kazan Tatars

Show 11 more passages

Clay ruins in the steppe, credited to Bukharan farmers

Editorial contextSouth of Semipalatinsk the party saw the foundations of a house of six rooms, which Gmelin calls the former dwelling of a Kalmyk 'idol-worshipper'. Others had stood there, but weather had destroyed them because all were built only of clay. Irrigation channels in the fields he credits to Bukharans, since, he explains, the Kalmyks do no farming at all and even their ruler has no fixed seat but is always on the move.

but the weather had destroyed them entirely, because all the buildings had been made only of clay. In the field nearby one could see some channels in the ground, into which the inhabitants of this area, who are said to have been Bukharans, had led water

Working translation

Original wording

allein das Wetter hatte sie ganz zernichtet, weil alle Gebäude bloß von Leim aufgeführet gewesen waren. Auf dem Felde dabey sahe man einige Rinnen in dem Erdreiche, in welche die Einwohner dieser Gegend, welche Bucharen gewesen seyn sollen, Wasser geleitet haben

Johann Georg Gmelin (German original, Göttingen, 1751)

About Kalmyks (Dzungars) and Bukharans

Keep in mind

Who built the houses is Gmelin's inference from hearsay and from what he knew of Kalmyk life.

Grave-robbers melt the gold of the old steppe graves

Editorial contextAll along the Irtysh Gmelin saw very many graves, which he took for remains of former Kalmyk or Bukharan settlement, and nearly every one had been dug open. Local people treated them as a mine for 'grave silver': horse ornaments, big seals, bracelets, sometimes idols. The unopened ones near Ust-Kamenogorsk were ringed with upright field stones or slates and filled with stones and earth.

But those who open the graves in this country have the habit, to the uncommon loss of history, of generally melting down the gold and silver and throwing away the copper and iron.

Working translation

Original wording

Allein diejenigen, die hier zu Lande die Gräber eröffnen, haben die Gewohnheit, daß sie zu ungemeinem Verlust der Historie das Gold und Silber gemeiniglich schmelzen, das Kupfer und Eisen aber wegwerfen.

Johann Georg Gmelin (German original, Göttingen, 1751)

About Ancient graves, thought to be Kalmyk or Bukharan

Keep in mind

The attribution of the graves to Kalmyks or Bukharans is a guess; many such steppe graves are far older.

BuildingsAblaikit, near Oskemen (Ust-Kamenogorsk), Kazakhstanvisited August 1734; built mid-17th century

Ablai-kit: a brick temple full of books in the steppe

Editorial contextGmelin did not go himself: he sent a corporal, soldiers and a scribe, with orders to measure the place and 'carry off everything'. They reported a rectangle walled with broken rock, buildings on a raised base, a hall with two bellied furnaces, a great clay idol with sixteen smaller ones, and heaps of Tibetan ('Tangut') and Kalmyk manuscripts and woodblocks; nearly twenty cartloads still lay there. Gmelin names it the idol temple of the Kalmyk prince Ablai of the Khoshut, driven out about 1671.

In this same building was a large cupboard with many compartments, in which many writings lay when the place was first discovered, and which are now scattered through the whole building... All these buildings are built of baked bricks

Working translation

Original wording

In eben diesem Gebäude war ein großer Schrank mit vielen Fächern, worin bey der ersten Entdeckung viele Schriften gelegen haben, die nun in dem ganzen Gebäude zerstreuet sind. … Alle diese Gebäude sind von gebackenen Ziegelsteinen aufgeführet

Johann Georg Gmelin (German original, Göttingen, 1751)

About Kalmyks (Oirats); Ablai, a Khoshut prince

Keep in mind

Second-hand: the description is the soldiers' and scribe's report. It also records the expedition removing manuscripts from the site.

Round reed huts for summer, other houses for winter

Editorial contextThree versts from Kuznetsk Gmelin visited a village of Teleut Tatars with two kinds of houses, one for summer and one for winter. The summer huts were round and pointed, about three fathoms across, with a small door on the east side, a smoke hole at the top, benches all round and a cooking hollow in the middle. They were built of reeds woven onto thin poles, with birch bark tucked in against the rain.

The village consists of two kinds of houses: in the one they live in summer, in the other in winter... The summer huts are round in shape and pointed at the top... The building material of these houses is reed, woven onto thin poles bound together on the inside

Working translation

Original wording

Das Dorf bestehet aus zweyerley Art Häusern, in der einen wohnen sie des Sommers, in der andern des Winters. … Die Sommerhütten sind von Figur rund, und oben zugespitzt … Der Bauzeug dieser Häuser ist Schilf, welches an die inwendig zusammen verbundenen dünnen Stöcke angeflochten

Johann Georg Gmelin (German original, Göttingen, 1751)

About Teleut Tatars

A goose and a loaf on the table: 'the fearsome name of the Tatars'

Editorial contextGmelin admits the travellers had feared the very name of the Tatars. After a few days among them it sounded quite different: everywhere a gift was waiting, usually a plucked goose and a baked loaf, and at Ulga also honey and hazelnuts. He is honest that the courtesy had limits: one host hid rather than hand over his horses, and the soldiers found him and took them anyway.

On the whole we found them friendly people, and the name of the Tatars, once so frightful to us, now sounded quite different. Everywhere we came we found a gift already waiting for us on the table, usually a plucked goose and a baked loaf

Working translation

Original wording

Wir haben sie überhaupt als leutseelige Leute befunden, und der uns ehemahls fürchterliche Name der Tataren kam uns nun ganz anders vor. An allen Orten, wo wir hinkamen, fanden wir auf dem Tische schon ein Geschenke vor uns, welches gemeiniglich in einer abgefederten Gans und einem gebackenen Brodte bestund

Johann Georg Gmelin (German original, Göttingen, 1751)

About Kazan Tatars

A wedding song called 'Yermak'

Editorial contextAt the same wedding two Tatar musicians, one with a reed pipe with finger holes (its end taken wholly into the mouth) and one with an ordinary violin, played for the guests. They singled out one tune they found moving. It was called 'Yermak', after the Cossack leader who conquered Siberia in the 1580s, and they said it dated from the time he brought their forefathers under Russian rule.

They called the song 'Yermak' and said it had been composed at the time when Yermak took Siberia and, through his services, brought their forefathers under Russian rule.

Working translation

Original wording

Sie nennten das Lied Jermak und sagten, daß es zu der Zeit gemacht wäre, da Jermak Sibirien eingenommen, und ihre Voreltern durch seine Dienste unter die Russische Bothmäßigkeit gebracht hätte.

Johann Georg Gmelin (German original, Göttingen, 1751)

About Siberian Tatars of Tobolsk

A stuffed horse on four birch poles, facing east

Editorial contextThe Teleuts, Gmelin notes, were not Muslims; each morning they turned to the rising sun and prayed 'do not strike me dead'. By the village stood their 'taülga', four birch posts in a square. Once or more a year they killed a horse, ate it in a circle, stuffed the skin and set it on the posts facing east. They now built these close to the village, he says, because they had noticed the Russians knew better uses for the hides.

They slaughter a horse, strip off its skin and eat the flesh near the taülga... They stuff the skin and set the horse... on top of the taülga... They have noticed that the Russians know how to make better use of their skins, so they now always build their taülga close to the village.

Working translation

Original wording

Sie schlachten ein Pferd, ziehen demselben die Haut ab und verzehren das Fleisch nahe bey dem Taülga … Die Haut stopfen sie aus, und setzen das Pferd … oben auf den Taülga … Sie haben gemerckt, daß die Russen ihre Häute besser zu gebrauchen wissen, deswegen bauen sie ihre Taülga jetzo allzeit nahe bey dem Dorfe.

Johann Georg Gmelin (German original, Göttingen, 1751)

About Teleut Tatars (not Muslim)

An ironworks inside a family yurt

Editorial contextGmelin rode to see a Tatar ironworks and at first could not find it: no building looked any different. The furnace was simply the cooking hollow found in every yurt, topped with a clay cone about a foot high and blown by two bellows, and the family went on living around it. Two men did all the work; from three pounds of ore they got about two pounds of iron, impure-looking but, he thought, very good.

We could see at once that no special yurt needs to be built for the furnace, but that any yurt will serve. Indeed it did not even stop people living in that same yurt, which is already a great advantage over European ironworks, which have to be built at great expense.

Working translation

Original wording

Wir konnten auch gleich sehen, daß man wegen des Schmelzofens nicht nöthig habe, eine besondere Jurte zu bauen, sondern daß eine jede Jurte darzu tüchtig sey. Ja es hinderte auch die Leute nicht in eben dieser Jurte zu wohnen, welches alles schon ein großer Vortheil vor den Europäischen Eisenhütten ist, die man mit großen Kosten aufführen muß.

Johann Georg Gmelin (German original, Göttingen, 1751)

About Tatars of the Kondoma valley (the people now called Shors)

Horse races before a Tatar wedding

Editorial contextGmelin and Müller drove out to a Tatar wedding at Sabanaka near Tobolsk. Before any wedding, he was told, riders race their horses to the bride's house for prizes put up by both families; this time they included red damask, a fox pelt, cotton cloths brought from the Kalmyk lands and a red horsehide. A few pages on, the akhun (Muslim cleric) told the groom his chief duty: not to take another wife without the consent of the one he was marrying.

It is an old custom at all Tatar weddings that many horses must first put on this show before the wedding begins. And so that there may always be riders, and people to lend horses for it, various prizes are put up both by the bridegroom's side and by the bride's

Working translation

Original wording

Es ist dieses eine alte hergebrachte Gewohnheit bey allen Tatarischen Hochzeiten, daß viele Pferde, ehe die Hochzeit angehet, vorher dieses Schauspiel machen müssen. Und damit es allezeit Reuter und auch Leute, die die Pferde dazu lehnen, geben möge, so sind sowohl von Seiten des Bräutigams, als der Braut verschiedene Preise ausgesetzt

Johann Georg Gmelin (German original, Göttingen, 1751)

About Siberian Tatars of Tobolsk

'All the land was Tartary, and all the peoples Tartars'

Editorial contextIn his preface Gmelin explains why Peter the Great sent the expedition. Before it, he says, European geographers knew nothing of the far north: every land there was simply 'Tartary' and every people 'Tartars'. On the next page he adds that in Russia itself people talk far less about 'Tartary' than elsewhere, the way real experts talk less about hidden qualities than those still in the dark.

In the northernmost lands the geographers had nothing but darkness. All the land was Tartary, and all the peoples of those regions Tartars.

Working translation

Original wording

In den Nordlichsten Ländern war bey den Erdbeschreibern nichts als Dunkelheit. Alles Land war Tatarey, und alle Völker selbiger Gegenden Tataren.

Johann Georg Gmelin, preface (German original, Göttingen, 1751)

About Everyone in northern Asia, as European maps saw them

A man with four heads and twenty-four arms

Editorial contextOn the walls behind the idols at Ablai-kit were paintings that baffled Gmelin. He says he has not the patience to describe them and refers the curious to alchemical pictures, as equally absurd. His examples: figures with several heads and many arms, one trampling a man's head, and a many-headed man embracing a woman.

One sees, for example, a man with 4 heads and 24 arms, another with 2 heads and 8 arms. The first treads with one of his right feet on a man's head and has two more men lying at his feet.

Working translation

Original wording

Man siehet z. E. einen Mann mit 4 Köpfen und 24 Armen, einen andern mit 2 Köpfen und 8 Armen. Der erstere tritt mit einem seiner rechten Füße einem Menschen auf den Kopf und hat noch zween andere Menschen zu seinen Füßen liegen.

Johann Georg Gmelin (German original, Göttingen, 1751)

About Kalmyks (Oirats)

Keep in mind

Gmelin does not identify the figures; they match the many-armed deities of Tibetan Buddhist art. He knew them only from his men's report and the pieces they brought back.

The fine print

How we know

firsthand The author saw the places or people described.

Scientific expedition participant

Research notes
  • German original found through English discovery; no English translation verified. One volume verified; reserved for later language work.

Why it matters

Long field expedition, towns, peoples and natural history.

Places named

Siberia

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