Written source · English

Turner's embassy to the Panchen Lama in Tibet

A British officer's eyewitness account of Bhutan and Tibet in 1783, with reports on Mongol pilgrims and the 'Tartars' beyond.

Full title An Account of an Embassy to the Court of the Teshoo Lama, in Tibet

Samuel Turner

Read the 12 passagesOpen the original book

Samuel Turner (c. 1759-1802), an East India Company officer, was sent by Warren Hastings in 1783 to greet the newly found infant Panchen Lama ('Teshoo Lama') at Tashilhunpo. With the surgeon Robert Saunders he crossed Bhutan and spent about three months in Tibet, talking at length with the Regent and with the Lama's Manchu-born chamberlain, who had travelled in Mongolia and China. His book (London, 1800) describes Bhutanese and Tibetan buildings, religion and daily life, and passes on what he heard about Mongols, Kalmyks and Siberia. It also includes Saunders's botanical notes and a closing account of events in Tibet up to 1793. This corpus copy is the 1800 first edition.

How they knew
Part eyewitness
Who “Tartar” means here
A wide label. Turner uses 'Tartar' for Tibetan nomad herders (the Dukba), for the dress and tea of Tibet, for Manchus ('Mantchieux Tartar'), for Kalmyk and Khalkha Mongols ('Calmuc Tartars'), and for all of Inner Asia as 'Tartary'.
Why read it
A calm first-hand witness who asked his Tibetan hosts directly about a supposed lost ancient nation of Inner Asia and was told that no ancient monuments were known there. He also reports the mammoth bones of Siberia and why northern nomads avoided houses.
Watch out
Much of what Turner says about Mongolia, Siberia and the Kalmyks comes second-hand from his hosts. His 'Tartars' are usually Tibetans or Mongols, not Turkic Tatars. Parts of the scan are rough.

What it says: 12 passages

A Mongol monastery town where Russians trade furs

Editorial contextThe Regent told Turner that Russia had courted the Taranaut Lama (the head lama of the Khalkha Mongols) with embassies and presents, including an illustrated Russian Bible Turner saw. As a result Russian traders visited the lama's seat at 'Kharka', where hides from 'Calmuc Tartary' and the furs of the Russia-China trade changed hands. The same page describes a Kalmyk pilgrimage bringing 200 to 300 horses to the Panchen Lama.

the Russian traders have since resorted occasionally to Kharka, the place of Taranaut Lama's residence, where they still carry on by their agents a considerable traffic. This principally consists in the sale of bulgar hides, which are prepared in the adjacent districts, and brought also from Calmuc Tartary to the same mart

Samuel Turner (1800)

About Khalkha and Kalmyk Mongols; Russian traders

Keep in mind

Reported by the Regent; 'Kharka' is probably the Khalkha lama's monastery town (later Urga, now Ulaanbaatar), but Turner does not locate it.

Nomads who fear that houses will fall on them

Editorial contextSoopoon Choomboo told Turner that the wandering people beyond the desert disliked entering houses. Turner passes on the explanation he heard (fear that houses would fall, perhaps from earthquakes) and adds his own guess: that the ability to flee smallpox made a mobile life attractive. Either way, he says, large hordes still live in tents with their herds.

This prejudice is said to have its foundation in a dread of their falling; an apprehension which may perhaps have originated, in remote times, from the calamitous effects of earthquakes … Thus large hordes of Tartars are still found to dwell in tents, tending upon cattle, and placing their chief dependance upon their herds

Samuel Turner (1800)

About Mongol nomads ('northern Tartars')

Keep in mind

Both explanations are guesses; the second (smallpox) is Turner's own.

Tents woven from yak hair

Editorial contextOn the high plain beyond Phari and the Tongla mountain, Turner saw herds of yaks and 'Tartar tents' made entirely from the animals: the tent cloth woven from yak hair, and the guy ropes spun from it too. These are the black tents of Tibetan herders, quite different from the round felt yurts of the Mongols.

On its skirts were large herds of the bushy-tailed cattle, grazing; and we saw some Tartar tents, formed from the hair of these cattle, woven into cloth; the ropes also which fastened them to iron pins driven into the ground, were spun from the same materials.

Samuel Turner (1800)

About Tibetan herders ('Tartars')

A Lama's tomb with 'Chinese, or Tartar' decoration

Editorial contextTurner describes the mausoleum of the previous Panchen Lama at Tashilhunpo. He sorts its style carefully: Indian-looking pillars and arches inside, Chinese or 'Tartar' decoration outside (the tented canopy and imperial dragon), and a plain but solid stone building with cement. It is a good example of a traveller naming the traditions a building borrowed from.

the external decorations are of Chinese, or Tartar origin, similar to those of the watch tower, or temple of the former; the tented canopy and imperial dragon. As far as the mason has been concerned … a plain substantial building of stone, with cement.

Samuel Turner (1800)

About Tibetans (Gelug monastery)

Keep in mind

The scan of this page is rough; the wording has been cleaned from obvious OCR noise.

Show 8 more passages

Mongol pilgrims bow nine times before the Lama

Editorial contextTurner watched a party of 'Kilmauks' (Kalmyk or Oirat Mongols) waiting outside the palace for a sight of the infant Lama. When he appeared they prostrated themselves nine times and then handed over bullion and goods. Turner learned that such offerings were one of the main sources of the Lamas' wealth.

There came this day, a party of Kilmauks, (Calmuc Tartars) for the purposes of devotion, and to make their offerings to the Lama … they dropped upon their knees, and struck their heads against the ground. This, with the same motions, was repeated nine times.

Samuel Turner (1800)

About Kalmyk / Oirat Mongols ('Calmuc Tartars')

Kumiss dried in bags under a horse's belly

Editorial contextServed soured milk (dhy) by the Lama of Phari, Turner compares it with the kumiss of the Tartars, made from mare's milk in the same way. He adds a hearsay detail: it is sometimes dried into chalk-like lumps, and the drying is done by hanging it in cloth bags under the horses' bellies.

The Kummuz of the Tartars is mare's milk, prepared by the same process: this is sometimes dried in masses till it resembles chalk; and is used to give a relish to the water which they drink, by solution with it. I have been told, that the operation of drying it, is sometimes performed by tying the Dhy tight in bags of cloth, and suspending it under their horses' bellies.

Samuel Turner (1800)

About Tartars (steppe nomads, in comparison)

Keep in mind

The drying detail is hearsay ('I have been told').

Tartar herdsmen and their yaks

Editorial contextNear his camp Turner met Dukba herders who lived only in tents. One brought him milk and butter. Their 200 to 300 yaks, owned by three families, grazed the mountains by day and at dusk were called in, tied in a double line before the tents and guarded by two big Tibetan mastiffs. They moved north to south with the seasons.

Near our encampment, was a party of Tartar herdsmen, called Dukba, whose sole occupation is tending cattle, and who always live in tents. One of them brought me a large quantity of milk, which was excellent, and some very good butter.

Samuel Turner (1800)

About Dukba herders of Tibet ('Tartar herdsmen')

Yellow caps and red caps across all Tartary

Editorial contextWatching monks in yellow robes and conical yellow hats, Turner explains that Tibetan Buddhism is split into yellow-hat and red-hat sects that between them cover 'almost the whole of Tartary'. The red hats allow their priests to marry. The yellow, favoured by the Emperor of China, is the most orthodox and powerful.

I notice this peculiarity of colour in their dress, as it is a distinction adopted, to mark one of the two religious sects that divide almost the whole of Tartary, from Turkistan to the eastern limits of this continent. The other colour is red; and the tribes are known as belonging to the red, or the yellow cap.

Samuel Turner (1800)

About Tibetan and Mongol Buddhists

Keep in mind

The claim that these sects cover all Tartary 'from Turkistan' is a large generalisation from what he was told.

Dice worn on every Tartar belt

Editorial contextTurner says that no journey, marriage or naming was done in Tibet without first seeking an omen, often from a monk skilled in divination. For small decisions people simply threw dice, which is why a pair of dice hangs from a Tartar belt. He cheerfully admits he travelled only when his own monk-diviner said so.

in trivial affairs, the mind is often governed by a casual cast of the die; and hence, dice are almost always found to constitute an appendage to a Tartar dress.

Samuel Turner (1800)

About Tibetans ('Tartar dress')

A Manchu 'Tartar' at the Tibetan court

Editorial contextTurner's most important informant, Soopoon Choomboo, the Panchen Lama's cup-bearer and second officer of the court, was Manchu by birth. Turner calls him a 'Mantchieux Tartar', using the European habit of calling the Manchu rulers of China Tartars. Two pages on he describes his 'Tartar' features: small eyes, thin eyebrows, high cheek bones, no beard.

Soopoon Choomboo, who was styled also Sadeek, held the second rank in the court of Teshoo Loomboo. He was by birth a Mantchieux Tartar

Samuel Turner (1800)

About Manchus ('Mantchieux Tartar')

The lost ancient nation of Lake Baikal: no trace

Editorial contextTurner had read a European theory, fashionable in the 1700s, that a lost ancient people near Lake Baikal had taught arts and sciences to India and Europe. He asked the Manchu-born chamberlain Soopoon Choomboo, who had travelled along the Baikal, about it. The answer: the area was thinly peopled and he knew of no monument showing remote antiquity. A striking early test of a 'lost civilisation of Tartary' idea.

My inquiries respected an ancient nation, supposed to have once inhabited the borders of the Baikal sea, in the interior of Tartary, and from which some persons conjecture, the learning, arts, and sciences of India, and even of Europe, to have been originally derived. If such a nation ever existed, the remembrance of it seems now to be buried in deepest oblivion.

Samuel Turner (1800)

About Mongols and Siberian peoples ('northern Tartars')

Keep in mind

The same page adds Soopoon Choomboo's answer: 'nor to his knowledge, was any monument existing, that bore marks of remote antiquity.' Turner's own view is only that the tradition, if real, is forgotten.

Strange talesSiberia1783 (written by 1800)

Heaps of monster bones across Tartary and Siberia

Editorial contextDiscussing why lions are carved on Tibetan buildings though none live nearby, Turner remarks that if lions ever lived there wild, it was in the age of the huge animals whose bones lie in heaps in Tartary and Siberia. He takes the bones (mammoths) as proof of a great convulsion of the globe. This is Turner's own speculation, a common idea in his day.

it must have been at the same time with those vast monsters, whose bones are found in huge heaps in various parts of Tartary and Siberia at this day, and clearly point to some great convulsion, and change, in the order of our globe.

Samuel Turner (1800)

About (none: fossil animals)

Keep in mind

Turner's own inference from reports of mammoth bones; he did not see them.

The fine print

How we know

firsthand The author saw the places or people described.

Embassy participant

Research notes
  • Separate Turner from observations credited to Saunders and other contributors.

Why it matters

Tibetan institutions, settlements and cultural descriptions.

Places named

Tibet; Bhutan

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