Written source · English

A British officer's winter ride from Herat to the Khan of Khiva

A young British artillery officer's eyewitness account of Turkmen camps, the court of Khiva and the Kazakh steppe, 1839 to 1840.

Full title Narrative of a Journey from Heraut to Khiva, Moscow, and St. Petersburgh

James Abbott

Read the 15 passagesOpen the original book

James Abbott, a British artillery officer, was sent from Herat in December 1839 to the Khan of Khiva, whose country a Russian army was then marching against. He rode through Turkmen country and Merv, spent weeks at the Khivan court, and then set out across the Kazakh steppe toward the Caspian as the Khan's go-between with Russia, where he was attacked and wounded. He wrote from notes and memory, with frank personal feelings. This corpus copy is Volume I of the 1843 first edition, which runs from Herat to the Kazakh country east of the Caspian.

How they knew
Eyewitness
Who “Tartar” means here
Abbott uses 'Tartar' as a broad label for the Turkic-speaking peoples of Central Asia: Turkmens, Uzbeks, Kazakhs (whom the Russians called Kirghiz) and even the Jamshidis near Herat. 'Tartary' is the steppe country as a whole, and the Khan of Khiva is 'a Khaun of Tartary'; the Nogais are 'Russian Tartars'.
Why read it
A vivid, first-person look inside felt tents, rammed-clay manor houses, the brick citadel of Khiva and the ruins of Old Urgench, written by someone who slept, ate and negotiated there.
Watch out
Abbott often mocks the people he meets and their looks, and he could barely speak the languages, so much of what he learned came through interpreters. Stories he was told (giants' bones, who built a tomb) are hearsay, and he says so.

What it says: 15 passages

A capital made of black tents

Editorial contextThe 'capital' of the Jamshidi tribe was mostly a spread of round black felt tents on a light wooden frame, darkened by smoke. Abbott notes only a few mud huts and a so-called fort that looked like a run-down farmyard.

The black tents which form the capital of the Jumsheedees are of thick felts, supported by a light and moveable framework of wood. Their shape is circular, and their dark hue is received from the smoke of fires lighted within : but sometimes from the colour of the wool. Khooshk however has a few mud huts and a fort, (so called) resembling a dilapidated farm yard.

James Abbott

About Jamshidis

Old Urgench, a brick fort melted into mounds

Editorial contextAbbott paced out the ruins of the old capital of Khwarazm: a town about a mile long with a square brick citadel and round bastions on a raised platform. The town walls, which he guessed were of unbaked brick, had slumped into low mounds.

The extent of this city was perhaps one mile by half a mile, with extensive suburbs on the north. At the east angle is the citadel, a brick fort of square figure, flanked by eight circular, and projecting bastions. … but the whole is now a ruin, as is the ancient city ; the walls of the latter, which were probably of unbaked brick, having subsided into mere mounds.

James Abbott

About Khwarazm (former capital); Turkmens and Kazakhs at the market nearby

Entering walled Khiva

Editorial contextAbbott rode to his first audience through a suburb, a bazaar and a fortified gateway, with women crowding the rooftops to stare. The royal citadel itself he found to be a modest brick building set into a corner of the town walls.

On approaching the town, we entered a considerable suburb, and afterwards passed through a miserable bazaar to the gateway ; for Khiva is fortified. … It was not long before we reached, through some very poor streets, the citadel, within which resides the "Father of Victories," the king of Khaurism. It is a poor, brick building, forming an angle of the city defences.

James Abbott

About Uzbeks and townspeople of Khiva

Merv abandoned when its dam broke

Editorial contextAbbott gives a short history of Merv: founded, he says, by fire-worshippers, long Persian, and fought over by Turkic tribes. He explains that the old city emptied when the dam on the Murghab river was neglected and swept away during decades of disorder, leaving a deserted ruin beside a new village of mud huts.

Merv was one of the most ancient cities of Asia. … Merv has probably changed masters as often as any city in the world. … During the misrule and anarchy of the last sixty years the ancient dam of the Moorghaub was neglected and carried away. The city in consequence became uninhabitable, and was utterly abandoned.

James Abbott

About Turkmens under the Khan of Khiva

Keep in mind

The founding by fire-worshippers is local tradition that Abbott repeats; the abandonment story is what he learned on the spot.

Show 11 more passages

Why a felt tent beats a house

Editorial contextLodged in a Turkmen camp of about 300 black tents, Abbott was won over by the felt tent. He explains that the felt can be lifted in summer, a central fire warms it in winter with the smoke escaping through a roof opening, and the whole home can be moved to a better spot.

These Toorcumun tents are the most comfortable of dwellings … by removing a portion of the felt covering, this tent is open to the air in summer ; and in winter a fire lighted in the centre makes it the warmest of retreats, all the smoke rising through the skylight in the roof.

James Abbott

About Yomut Turkmens (called 'decidedly Tartar' by Abbott)

Khiva's manor houses of rammed clay

Editorial contextRiding into the Khiva oasis, Abbott describes the country houses of the gentry: tall clay-walled compounds with towers at the corners, locally called 'castles'. The walls were of rammed clay, generally fluted, an effect he thought perhaps came from the hurdles of straight branches that held the clay while it was rammed.

The houses have all one character, being an enclosure of very lofty clay walls, flanked by ornamental towers at the angles, which give them the appearance of castles. This name (Gullah) they bear at Khiva. … The walls, built with great regularity of rammed clay, are generally fluted, an effect given them perhaps by the hurdles of straight branches, between which the clay is supported whilst soft

James Abbott

About Uzbek gentry of Khiva

The Khan holds court in a felt tent

Editorial contextAt his first audience Abbott found the ruler of Khiva not in a hall but in a plain black felt tent pitched inside his court, with a wood fire burning in the middle. Even a settled king with a brick citadel kept the nomad's tent as his reception room.

He was seated upon a carpet, and supported by cushions. Before him a wood fire blazed up, sending its smoke and sparks through the sky-light of the tent. … The black tent of felt which he occupied, was of the usual dimensions, i. e. about 24 feet in diameter, and quite unadorned, its sole furniture being the carpet and cushions, on which he reclined.

James Abbott

About Allah Quli Khan of Khiva and his Uzbek court

A brick tower said to be Genghis Khan's

Editorial contextAmong the ruins of Old Urgench Abbott saw a tall, tapering brick column that he says was put up by Genghis Khan, decorated only with bands of patterned brick and leaning from the wind. Nearby he describes a saint's tomb with a conical roof of coloured tiles on a 24-sided base, and a tiled tomb said to have been built by a lady of Genghis Khan's family for her lover.

On the north of the site, (I speak at hazard,) stands a brick column, erected by Chenghis Khaun. It is the frustrum of an extremely taper cone, surmounted by a cylinder, and is very sufficiently ugly. It has no base, and its sole ornaments have been zones of bricks, of alternating patterns.

James Abbott

About Turkmens of the Khorezm oasis

Keep in mind

The attribution to Genghis Khan is what Abbott was told or assumed; the tall minaret standing at Konye-Urgench today is usually dated to the 14th century.

A Kazakh feast: mutton, broth and thumbs for napkins

Editorial contextAt a Kazakh host's tent, the guests ate boiled mutton with no bread or vegetables, the men first and the women afterwards. Abbott is squeamish and scornful, but he records exactly how the meal was served and cleaned up.

It consisted of boiled mutton, soused in its own soup. Bread and vegetables are things quite unknown in these parts. Kuzzauks are exclusively carnivorous. … The bowls were handed to the women, who scraped them clean with their thumbs … The thumb and tongue are the only napkins in Khaurism … The Tartars are right not to eat with their women.

James Abbott

About Kazakhs (Kuzzauks), called Tartars by Abbott

Keep in mind

Abbott's sneering tone is his own; the facts of the meal are what he saw.

Slave caravans on the road to Khiva

Editorial contextAbbott travelled alongside caravans that had carried grain south and were returning to Khiva with captives, many from Herat. He describes the women riding with their captors and the men walking the whole way, chained by the neck at night.

They had brought grain from Khiva, and are returning thither laden with slaves, many of whom are natives of Heraut. … But the men are chained together by the throats at night, so that rest is scarcely possible, whilst the contact of the frozen iron with their skin must be torturous. For them also no carriage is found, they walk the whole way

James Abbott

About Turkmen traders and their captives from Herat

Singing kites over Khiva

Editorial contextFor weeks Abbott heard a strange humming music over Khiva at night. It turned out to be paper kites with a taut string stretched across a bent crosspiece, which hummed in the wind and were left flying all night. He thought the idea worth copying in England.

Seeing some children on the road with their paper kites, I approached to examine the contrivance, by which these toys emit a musical sound, whilst floating in the air. … And, as numbers of these kites are left floating in the air all night, the effect is that of aerial music ; monotonous, but full of melancholy interest.

James Abbott

About Children of Khiva

Kazakh, Kirghiz or Cossack?

Editorial contextAbbott explains a naming tangle: the steppe people between Khiva and Orenburg call themselves Kazakhs (Kuzzauks), but the Russians call them Kirghiz to tell them apart from Russia's own Christian Cossacks. The people themselves, he says, do not know the name Kirghiz.

The kingdom of Khaurism is separated from the Russian district of Orenburgh by a considerable belt of steppe, held by Kuzzauks, whose chief, or Sooltaun, is nominally tributary to Russia. The Russians call this people Kirgheez, to distinguish them from their own Kuzzauks, or Cossacks, who are Christians, but the name is unknown to the people themselves.

James Abbott

About Kazakhs

'Tartar' as a look, not a nation

Editorial contextAbbott calls the Jamshidis Turkish by descent and 'decidedly Tartar' in their features, using 'Tartar' as a racial type. He adds an insult that recurs in the book: that all Tartars fear artillery.

The Jumsheedees are of Toorkish descent, as their habits and physiognomy imply. They are short, stout, very dark, with decidedly Tartar features. … They are arrant cowards, and like all Tartars, superstitiously fearful of artillery.

James Abbott

About Jamshidis

Keep in mind

Prejudiced generalisation. The Jamshidis are usually counted today among the Persian-speaking Aimaq peoples, not as Turks.

A cemetery of giants at Umbarr

Editorial contextPassing an abandoned walled town, Abbott's interpreter told him it had been a Kalmyk capital, and that the late Khan stopped rebuilding it when diggers found huge human bones. The interpreter claimed to have seen skulls too big to hug that crumbled to powder in the air. Abbott doubts the giants but thinks the bones deserve study.

He said, it was supposed to have been the capital of Khaurism, under the Culmauks, whom we call Calmucks. That these were slain, in an invasion by Russia. That the late Khaun purposed rebuilding this city, and had walled it accordingly ; but that, in digging, some monstrous human bones were found, which proved it to have been a cemetery of giants.

Ali Muhummud, Abbott's interpreter, as reported by James Abbott

About Khivans, Turkmens; Kalmyks (as former rulers in the story)

Keep in mind

Hearsay. Abbott did not see the bones and on the next page says few would accept the giants theory.

An Uzbek map of the world

Editorial contextThe Khivan minister showed Abbott a world map by an Uzbek scholar that put Italy north of England and Russia south of China. Abbott, tongue in cheek, decided not to argue.

A map of the world, the production of a profound Oozbeg philosopher, was then produced ; I begged a clue to this singular chart, and was rather surprised to find, that Italy lay north of England ; and Russia south of China.

James Abbott

About Uzbek court of Khiva

Keep in mind

Abbott is being sarcastic about the map.

The fine print

How we know

firsthand The author saw the places or people described.

Envoy / traveler

Research notes
  • Volume I verified; second volume not verified in this pass.

Why it matters

Court of Khiva, landscape, settlements and regional conflict.

Places named

Khiva; Khorezm; Caspian; Russia

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